Chaos

I've never heard that MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files) have the ladder recesses open. That's weird, I guess you could print a 2-3mm thick rectangle piece and glue it behind the ladder. As far as the arm cylinders, most just glue them to the arm or put screws thru the inside of the forearm into the cylinders. I have seen a mounting bracket in some ones 3D files but I don't know if Tom's has it. I sent him a message to inquire about your questions. When I hear back from him I will update my post.

@Deathwatch Are those metal tabs the ones from Paul Apprentice, or did you make them yourself. @Mal86 is correct, the closer the bells are to the upper armor straps the better. Your bells are sitting too low. the top edge of the bell should be just about even with where the front and back armor meet. Paul's metal tabs are made for the ST, his ST Bell files have a raised mounting area for the snap. So if you use them on the DT without making a raised mount or straightening the tab flat straight out, you will get what you have going on right now.

"Dark Trooper Pew Pew" it shall be then! 🤣😅😄

Two fingers is not a requirement, it's a technique to ensure your thigh greeblies and shin tops don't hit each other. Adjust your thighs so there space at the knee, then trim the tops of the thighs, following the original contour just enough so you can walk squat or sit so that the front top of the thighs doesn't dig into your hip front.

Nick, Congratulations on your approval. To apply for Level 2 take a look at this section https://forum.specops501st.com/forum/40-the-specialist-program/ Once you upload all the required information and photos, the Detachment Command and DCAs will take a look.

Good day all, going to throw my two cents in here simply because I know "camo" 😄 and having worked with many CRL discussions about colors and sheens due to lighting (because opinions are like sphincters, everyone has one). The graphics designers of the game most likely used variants of colors' shading and lighting to give a more realistic appearance. Much like we had with the DT in trying to decide if a color was flat black that looked gray due to lighting, or it was actually gray. I could go into all the aspects of why certain backgrounds are used in camo patterns etc., but I think the bottom line is the base color could be a really light shade of green, or brown, or even gray. Unless you have the exact color HEX code the designer actually used, you will never know. I think this CRL should not require that the base material or color be of a “specific” color (because we just do not know) but maybe say something like this. • The costume's armor and hard pieces are camouflaged with "diffused" colors of green and brown in varying shades/tints with a "lighter shade" variant undertone/base. See reference photos. I am a firm believer in the K.I.S.S principle.

I found a photo of the blaster used by the Gen 3s in the Mando, but unfortunately it didn't have the usual ID tag telling us what the nomenclature is. Has anyone see it named anywhere. I know its based on the MP40.

A lot of people have done that for painting their kits. As a matter of fact next year when I repaint my kit, I will use the same process. I will probably use Imron paint as it is very durable, but its about $100 a gallon. LOL everything else was expensive on my build, why not extend that to the paint?

If you want a slimmer fit on the thighs I can show you what I did to mine. They are actually "clamshelled" with a velcro closure. I'll look tomorrow at work to see if I have any photos.

Because your kit is a Tripon one, here is what you need to do for the side buckle. With your front and back upper and lower armor on and positioned to fit. The rear armor side overlaps the front side piece. Draw a pencil line along the front edge of the back side piece. If you do not expect to need to change the girth of your lower, place the rear upper corner at the edge of the pencil line, the flat edge should align with the back side piece top edge. This is where you position and attach the side buckle. It should look like this:

Benjamin, Looks good so far, I had suggested to Hector that if he moved his back up so that it rotated forward, his collar tusks would sit a little lower. You will need to use some type of tab on your collar tusks to bring them down to lay flat against the front neck recess. Several people have used the tabs that I made and use on mine. Remember with Jim's kit the back sides overlap the front sides. When you get the pieces set, trim the shoulder areas so that the front and back edges meet centerline with the top of your shoulder. It makes hiding the seam easier.

I would imagine, for those that have 3D printed parts, the need to be able to replace a broken spar is easily done with a removable sniper plate. Just guessing.

This might help

That is what I did to mine, I used a 4 inch sanding wheel and "slowly" ground out a curved area. However, before I did that I took some 2 part epoxy and leveled out the backside of the sniper knee to give me more material to work with and strengthen the outside prongs.

Impressive work Andreas! I think we might be at a point to start building the CRL requirements. More to follow later.

I am excited to have another Death Trooper in our ranks. As I stated on another of your threads, we are here to assist anyway we can. Best of luck with your build.

@Andreas Funk thanks for posting, I'll take a closer look this week.

Suggestion to fix the riding up and overall appearance, don't make the shin fit tight. If it's loose around your ankle, the movement of walking won't push up the shin. Because it's too tight when it does get pushed up, it doesn't fall back in place. With it loose you may run into the shin rotating. You can keep the shin aligned to the front by putting a piece of velcro on your boot spats and the inside front of the shin. That's how mine is and it works well AND the lower part of my shin doesn't feel like it's compressing my ankles.

Jim's suit is awesome. I wouldn't worry about lifting your arms too much. Wait till you get the upper armor on. 😁

That is an option, having a V1 and V2, if we do have a V2 helmet lets make sure if there is any other damage in addition to the broken jaw it should be included as well.

@Andreas Funk well done on solving the joint process. I think your solution to conceal as much of the elbow, knee, and wrist undersuit works great and would be acceptable as a method or concealment. I will post up what I have done when I get a break from work and can sit down and do some screen shots. I am excited that we are bringing this costume back to life.

Dan, If you are going to put another coat of the Appliance paint on the helmet, I would wet sand it done to 800 or 1000 grit, looks like you have some orange peeling. Clean it really good with mild degreaser let dry and sit for 5-7 days, then apply another coat using the "wet coat" method. You don't need a filler/primer, you just need a really smooth surface. I would also spray it in an area void of dust and flying particles. Since the paint is thicker than most it dries slower and susceptible to things sticking to it.