Chaos

That is why I have multiple harnesses.

I wanted all my armor sections to move independently. example my upper chest and back sit squarely on my shoulders and move with my upper torso. My abdomen and lower back are attached as the corset which is snug with my waist and twists with my lower back and abodmen. My thighs need to be supported to keep the correct height and gap when I raise and lower my legs, climb stairs, sit down etc. The correct height is set based off my shoulders. This is where I chose to suppport them from. I origianlly had everything strapped like a TK where everything was attached the piece above it and then hung below. for less complicated kits that works fine, but the weight of all the DT pieces plus the complexity of how the parts are supposed to move led me to my current strapping process. If you check out Paul's Shore Trooper, it is basically the same way.

I figured out how much I needed to trim off the top edges of the thighs to keep them from pinching (it was about 2") So I put painter's tape along the top edges and measured 2 " from the top edges and just drew a new top edge. Then I uses a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the 2" off. You can use any type of ABS or thick plastic material to cut a strip. My kit has the same bottom edge that is turned back and has a gap. The piece that I designed has a raised block that slides into the gap so that it can be epooxied to the inside of the lower abdomen. photo and file attached. UPDATED abdomen belt extension piece.stl

This might help. Go to pages 20-23 for a solution. This is how I affix my belt.Armor Strapping.pdf

No need to clear coat the TS40, won't effect any approval at all.

^^^this^^^

It makes sense to say all hard pieces are gloss black unless otherwise stated. Then we can eliminate the gloss black on each section 👍 I concur with your edits. I think the thighs are next in my cue. I'll get it on here this weekend.

I'll take a look this weekend. Since it looks like it is a Jim Tripon kit I know exactly what I had to modify to meet L2.

Don't mind at all. Happy to answer any questions you may have

Hey guys, thought I would throw out a tidbit concerning weapons and Level 2. Weapons are not required for any type of approval, but if they are included in approval photos they must meet the Level being applied for. With that being said, if you are going for Level 2 and your weapons are only Level 1, don't use them in the photos. For the L2 action shot you can point, fist bump, peace sign etc and it counts as an action photo. By the way any DT L2 approvals come my way for input.

It's the lighting and angle, both are the same type sticker.

If you have someone who has a Silhouette cutting machine I have a file to use. When I was not working overseas I had them in my Etsy shop. I used chrome adhesive vinyl to cut the decal out. It has been on my pistol for years and has not peeled off at all. LOL someone that I gave the file to some years ago has started selling them. Kind of a dick move since I gave the file to him but it is what it is. If you want the file send me a PM and I'll send it to you.

ahh I hate auto correct. it should say "smooth and rigid" thanks for the catch

Revision 0 Belt The belt is smooth and rigid and creates a circular band around the wearer’s waist with no visible buckle or fastening mechanism. The belt has an overall width of approximately 70-80 mm. (based upon comparison to Din Djarin’s ammo canister height) There is one rectangular hard box approximately 105mm x 85mm, offset center to the wear’s right. All four front side edges are beveled inward. There is a narrow rectangular recess, approximately 80mm x 10mm, along the box’s lower front plate. There are two smaller rectangular hard boxes, that are side by side, approximately 52mm x 85mm offset center to the wearer’s left. All four front side edges are beveled inward. There are two leather or leather-like material rectangular pouches to the wearer’s left side, one is approximately 52mm x 90mm and the other is approximately 52mm x 100mm. Both pouches have a top fold over flap which has a single black snap closure and covers about 3/5th of the front of the pouch. The most rearward pouch sits slightly lower on the belt than the forward pouch. There is one leather or leather-like material rectangular pouch to the wearer’s right side, approximately 52mm x 100mm. The pouch has a top fold over flap which has a single black snap closure and covers about 3/5th of the front of the pouch. There are two rectangular hard boxes, approximately 95mm x 114mm x 20mm, located aft of the wearer’s hip. The boxes slant outward approximately 20-30 degrees. The box has a rectangular cover with an upper to lower outward taper. The lid has approximately 16-20 raised narrow details equally spaced across the front of the cover. The lower edge of the cover has an inward beveled edge. There is a horizontal Thermal Detonator located on the rear center of the belt. is a circular canister with approximately 14 evenly spaced grooves extending to the end caps and is attached to the lower back armor. Width is approximately the same as the lower back plate Belt and belt accessories may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume

Andreas, we are almost done with the CRL descriptions, once we do that, if your build matches, then we can have you take Hi resolution photos of your armor pieces and full suit up photos as reference photos to send into the Legion. New to the Legion costumes are very time consuming. I have seen some CRLs take up to 2 years start to finish. If I had to guess on this one, I would say probably less than 3-4 months provided we can finalize all the CRL wording, and your kit meets the wording.

I have noticed in most of the ABS DT kits, the edges and the recess are there, just not as sharp. With that being said, as long as there is an "oblong recess", no matter how slight it is, your GML should be able to approve it. Some with the ABS kits have used 3D printed handplates so that the details are sharper.

Apologies all, work has been a blotch, I'll get the belt done this week.

1st, positioning looks good. 2nd, a single connection is OK, you might want to widen the connector, I'm just thinking with a narrow single point you have a fulcrum point and any pressure on any of the ends could cause a structual failure at the connection point. 3rd, center based upon the blue line.

I just put a nose pad where my Anovos presses down on my nose. It still sits on my nose but is less painful. Even with the helmet liner, you can put a pad in the top to raise it up slightly as well.

Thank you Andreas, we can come back to the legs, joints and boots when we get to them. Next up will be the belt. I will finish up sometime this week, as I had lost my reference photos and had to check on a few minor details.

Considering that the joints were CGI'd, the way you have made your joints works. Impressive craftsmanship. We can fine tune the joints later, but I believe we are at a 98% solution for the joints.

Ok the helmet can be basic approvable. The nose bridge meets the basic CRL as it is. To be Level 2 you'd have to add an additional raised bar to the middle section. The 8 side vents would need to be drilled out so the slots are open. Then add the metal screening and black fabric backing to be basic approvable. Everything else meets basic approval.

Hey guys, if you post the photos of the helmet in question here, I can take a look and tell you if it will pass Basic and/or L2. LOL I have been looking at helmets for years and as long as the photos are decent resolution and in good lighting it should be simple to identify if anything needs correcting.

Perfect! Thank you.