nanotek

No problem, feel free to reach out any time

Hi @LondonValient, yes I am Detachment Leader but I I don't know everything about the DT, it's always a process of discovery @Chaos is my go to guy for DT stuff now, is our Detachment Costume Advisor for the DT aaaand also our first ever Specialist ranked Deathtrooper Specialist. I will throw stuff in from time to time, but Chris is probably more active in the DT space

I agree with the comments above

Looking great. I am concerned with one thing, and maybe you’re still working this out, and that’s the details just under the nose on the skirting I also assume you’re going to be weathering the helmet and armour to match the skirting material?

I think this is good, but I also think you should mention something about the blade being green if it is going to be used as it is a key difference from the Sith Lords. Make sure the L2 meets some of the same standards as the other CRL's in terms of high quality replica maybe? In answer to the question, if the lightsaber is a prominent feature of the costume and is visible most of the time (which I believe it is), then it is a requirement.

Remember to request detachment access here https://forum.specops501st.com/forum/130-access-requests/

PM'd

Another option might be to 3D model the parts for assembly, so instead of one big model and slicing it, you manufacture components that slot together for a more solid build. Just thinking out loud I don't know if you plan on selling/sharing your files at the end of the build, but it might be worth considering either way as the majority of people probably don't have the larger printers. Me personally I don't mind the larger files because of 500x500x500 build volume

Yeah mate, looking great!

Loving the progress on this! Great work team

I'm with @Chaos on this one, they shouldn't be directly on your sides like that. They should be more towards the back of the belt covering the kidney area. And yes, where they are positioned you are either going to damage the boxes or damage your forearms.

Is the foam merely there to support two 3D printed pieces being glued together? What is it like in terms of weight? I know that there are tools out there used for welding plastic bumpers which might be more suited to this kind of work without adding weight. To reinforce my 3D printed stuff I added some fibreglass or used strips of plastic or used thin strips of metal melted into the plastic depending on what I was going for.

These pics here show the other back/kidney armour and shows that it is an independent piece from the upper back and butt plate

I can't unsee the upper armour as a tank top now guys

Looking at the pics you provided it definitely looks separate. Thinking out loud here; because the abdominal looks completely different I would say it would have to be built as a separate piece. The front and sides of the abdominal section look like soft parts with some armor plates on the sides? The only solid piece appears to be the back/kidney part. I’m not sure how practical having one piece would be?

It has nothing to do with the forum and more to do with the image no longer being available. All we can do is reach out to @gmrhodes13 to see if the images still exist

Just regarding the lines on the chest, I'm not seeing the width increasing or decreasing consistently between ref pics. It also seams the width of the join in general is different between all the pictures provided. It could be that the increased width you are seeing at the top of the chest is just extra shading added, or an overlap but it doesn't happen consistently. In fact out of the references I see above it only happens once out of the four panels provided. Totally agree with the statement that it lines up with the abdominal lines.

I just had another thought. You could potentially make a mold for the outside so that you can push and mold the features in with more sharp details.

To be honest with you I think the overall approach is correct but the mouth piece looks wrong. You have quite an extended ledge there which I am having a hard time trying to put into the context of the original game model. As for retaining features when applying a material over top, you will need to calculate the thickness of the material into the depth of the features in your model. I.e material thickness =1mm add 2-3mm depth to the feature on the model If you plan on using leather, it’s a simple and time consuming task of molding the leather to the surface before gluing If you’re using a faux material or some kind of plastic. You will need to ensure it is malleable enough to be glued and shaped to the surface I would say that depending on the material you go for and it’s thickness will determine the depth of the features you will mold to.

Hi and welcome, looking forward to seeing your progress. With regards to your paint question, you should follow standard procedure for painting anything. Any surface in general will require some kind of surface preparations like degreasing, cleaning and priming. There are plenty of resources available that will cover off these topics. I ensured all my surfaces were sanded with 800 grit sand paper before using a plastic primer/filler. Switched up to 1200 grit for the primed surface, cleaned again and. then used the Rustoleum 2X Paint with primer in Satin Black. It came out quite nicely.

@thisiskevin Has generously donated his 3D Files of General Weir's Bandolier so that you can build one as slick as his. These files have been provided to us on the condition that we do not share/sell/redistribute them. We have also been asked to keep a track of who has downloaded them, so here are the rules. You may request a download link for the files by replying to this thread. By requesting the files you agree to the terms and conditions stated in this post. Once requested, one of the staff will PM you with the link to the ZIP file that contains the STLs. Kevin is our CRL model so you can check them out here Terms of downloading the files: These files are provided for free "as is" and are not the responsibility of Spec Ops detachment. There is no warranty or support. If there is something wrong with the files or you are not happy with them, Spec Ops staff are under no obligation to fix them. It is also at Kevin's sole discretion to provide assistance should you have enhancement requests or technical issues with these files You may not share these files with other people, groups or businesses You may not resell or redistribute these files Neither the Spec Ops detachment, 501st Legion or Kevin be liable for any incidental, special, indirect or consequential damages whatsoever, including without limitation, damages for loss of profits, loss of data, business interruption or any other damages or losses, arising out of or related to your use or inability to use these files, however caused, regardless of the theory of liability. Kevin also has the right to withdraw his files at any time if and when he chooses. Thanks

Looking great, weather will start to get better here in Victoria soon too

Welcome to Spec Ops, looks like you're the right track so far. As always sing out if you need help, there are always people here who can help out!

If you want to get super nerdy it will depend on the exact chemical composition of the latex/silicon this will allow you to select the correct Adhesion Promoter. I have not had the need to paint any latex or vinyl, but the process is still the same. Also make sure your surface is properly cleaned and prepared, there are lots of chemicals from release agents that will mess up the paint