toddo

How exciting!

How exciting!

Nice work Joe.

Looks great Clint. Thank-you so much!

Welcome back Alex. It's good to see work continue on this one.

Was there an issue with keeping the shins down/spats in place?

Looking stellar Clint. I look forward to seeing the rest.

I haven't run it for any length of time, but 6 volts tends to keep a lightsaber with no sound going for a long time, so 9 into two of those lights might be ok. Otherwise, just stick a different battery arrangement inside. Be sure to test the heat first though as some lightsabers use a heatsink for the luxeons, and increased power would lead to increased warmth.

Ok, now that I'm able to post images again, I made a short thread detailing how I added LEDs to my pack. http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/4348-toddos-flametrooper-mods/

Ok, I wanted to show how I added LEDs to my flametrooper tanks. Mine are the MLC tanks made out of lightweight fiberglass. The first thing I did was to use a dremel to remove the domes from the tanks so that I could insert the lenses. I didn't have any red plastic laying around, so I spray painted some plastic from a blister pack with some candy apple Testor's that I had on the bench. Then I cut to shape and installed the lens covers into the domes. I cut some aluminum sleeves to place inside the domes so that I could re-attach the domes to the tube. Then I carefully cut the lid of the OII box out so that I could access the inside of the tubes and add the electronics. In addition to the 9V I added to the inside of the OII lid, I added a small toggle to turn the operate the lighting. Given that the tubes are such lightweight fiberglass, there was some light transmission where I didn't want it through thin spots in the tube walls. I simple added some foil along the insides of the tubes. It also helps to reflect the LEDs for optimal dispersion of light. I then used a small barrier strip to send the current from the battery to the switch and to each of the two LEDs. For the LEDs I chose to use Luxeon LEDs intended for lightsabers. I figure if they are bright enough for that, then I'm in business. Here you can see things lit-up:

I used luxeon leds that one would use in a lightsaber. I used one in each lit tube. The lighting bled through thin spots in the fiberglass, so I just lined as much of the inside of the tube with foil. That blocks light transmission where I don't want it and helps to reflect the light to the windows. For the windows I didn't have any red plastic handy, so I spray-painted some clear plastic I had laying around. I'm having trouble attaching images currently, but I'm working on that.

I think that many times the LEDs will hardly be visible in daylight conditions. Given that, I think we can move that to a level 2 requirement. Will do gents.

OK, I made some adjustments to the CRL draft that I think reflect the majority of the proposed changes. Let me know what you guys think.

I think you guys have some great points. I will update the CRL draft with some of this language ASAP. As for the tanks, I think there is a ton of detail there, and we can get really bogged-down on that. I think MEPD handles this pretty well in that the description is intentionally vague. I put in the detail on the LEDs because it is clearly seen on screen, and if one examines the ESB and ROTJ Vader CRLs, LEDs are certainly mentioned. I'm ok moving those to Level II much like most of the detail on the pack. Remember that the point of the CRL is not to create a strict bullet-point list of every detail we can find, but rather to supply a guide for our GMLs to judge the standards of costumes. I'm seeing the CRL drafts for some of the newer costumes, and it is overly detailed IMHO for basic approval. Specialist is our Level II, and we can certainly expand on those details in the CRL later to up the game for those who reflect the highest standard. As for the CRL, now that we have some discussion going, it won't be long guys.

I think the craft foam looks perfect, but it seems that elastic has what it takes to last through the rigors of trooping.

This makes really good sense to me. This way there is ease getting the foot through there, and the slits solve the flare problem that I've been trying to get my head around. Simple solution. Thanks.

Thanks so much for posting these photos Mark. I can get my head around the harness now and how to keep everything one piece for easy in/out during troops. Well-done!

Fear not. Once the flick debuts, everyone will be enamored with the DT.

This is a fun build to watch. I'm not convinced that this method will result in an accurate enough product to be accepted by 501st standards, but it is commendable regardless. Some pieces such as the ab plate are looking amazing, but things such as the shins are going to be a major challenge using these methods. I can't stop watching though, so keep going!

Welcome to Spec Ops. I always dig salvaging old costumes to make them better. Looks like you're off to a good start.

Those Sideshow photos make one just want to be wearing that armor yesterday.

I agree about the sizing of the MLC tanks. Being 5'9", I feel like they are perfect for me. I don't have my bracket yet, but it seems like my tanks will sit properly there. Are you able to put your vertical straps on your shoulders with the chest attached? I'd love to be able to put this on as one piece, but I'm having trouble envisioning how.

Wow, nice work on your brace. I'm still confused about the white straps. What are they supposed to do?

That's inspirational Clint. I can see that the chest is pulling-up too far, and I read that you are planning on fixing that. I'd love to see your harness setup without the chest at some point if you are able to do that. Overall you are looking tops though!

Looks really stellar Mark. Are you employing your full harness prototype?