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toddo

501st SpecOps[TX]
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Everything posted by toddo

  1. That's a tough one Kerrin, but it can be remedied. First question, what kit is that? There might be a possibility of securing a smaller chest/back. Second, Deathmos30 on the boards here dealt with something similar a few years back as did Pandatrooper over at FISD when he built his oversized armor for his small frame. You might want to explore both of those threads for some good ideas. What you might consider is trimming the neck line and the swoop a bit on your chest. That would allow for it to come up higher and/or the back to raise as well. The plastic shoulder straps don't have to have the boxes at the end, so if you can trim the shoulders on the chest/back at all, it can be done with the plastic straps still looking great. I'm not sure how much good trimming the kidney will do as the back will still hang pretty close to the detonator unless other changes are made.
  2. I hadn't noticed that before. I agree with your good catch. There are two rivet-thingies on the receiver box. If one were to drill small holes in each of those, the red light could shine through in that exact spot.
  3. This is a great build Clint. Such neat ideas such as the way you made it collapse-able with the long deck screw and the craft foam on the nozzle. This kit is amazing, and you put that Clint touch on it. Well-done.
  4. Looking great to me Clint. I love that kit.
  5. You're quite right. I copied some of that from the FOTK CRL, and I misread that detail. I was thinking it was talking about the longer, vertical rectangles toward to the top of the left shin, so I'll update that.
  6. Currently all Spec Ops are TX. And you are correct, there are differences between the suits in Anaheim and Orlando. Which is more correct? Who can say? We really need to do with screen images as much as possible, but until we have more and better quality of those, we have to rely on the tour suits quite a bit. That said, I tried to take the differences into account when writing the CRL so that following either model would be acceptable. Then, as better film references become available, we can tweak the CRL over time to dial it in toward screen accuracy.
  7. Welcome Jason. If you used E6000, then you just need to gently pull the pieces apart. If they are stubborn, try some gentle heat. As far as polishing your armor, you can use Novus. Just rub it on, let it dry a tad, and then buff it off.
  8. That should really help the heat issue and the comfort level all around. How do you plan to keep the biceps in position without the shoulder gaskets?
  9. Ha! I've stared at this guy since I saw him in person in Anaheim, and I never noticed that. Thanks Clint. I'll adjust that.
  10. That looks like a great list Clint. I can't wait to see your work on this. As you may know I have an MLC pack, so feel free to fire away with any questions. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to wear the tank that also allows for ease of suiting-up and out. Of the helmets out there, Animefan's is my favorite by the way.
  11. So here is my first draft of the Flametrooper CRL. I figure it's time to get the ball rolling. Let's get some healthy discussion going for the CRL, but remember that the current goal is to make the CRL accurate but easily attainable. Here we go: Costume Reference Library First Order Flametrooper Description: First Order Flametrooper Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars: The Force Awakens Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet For 501st approval: The helmet is gloss white with black trim The lens is smoky gray in color and must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes A pair of silver aerator/mic tip are present on either side of the chin. There is a black groove above the brow. There are two thin, thin black grooves near the frown that circumnavigate the helmet. The lower groove contains a black parallelogram on either side of the helmet. A thicker black groove circumnavigates the lower part of the helmet from the outer edge of each aerator. Neckseal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. No hair or skin should be visible around the neck area Chest Plate For 501st approval: The chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate The center-top of the chest plate contains a recessed, black groove. There is a right-angle indentation on either side of the groove. There are two wings that attach beneath the lower section of the chest plate on either side. Back For 501st approval: The back plate must appear to attach to the chest behind the shoulder using rivets or Chicago screws. Shoulder Gaskets For 501st approval: Gaskets shall be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges The shoulder gaskets must cover all exposed areas under the shoulder bell, between the bicep and chest, and between bicep and back. Shoulder Bells For 501st approval: One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical. They may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Shoulders have small round extension at the top under the bell itself that butts up against the chest plate. Biceps For 501st approval: Biceps have visible seams on the front and rear. Black material may be present between the seams. Elbow Gaskets For 501st approval: Gaskets shall be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges The elbow gaskets must cover all exposed areas between the bicep and forearm Forearms For 501st approval: Forearms shall have have ridged rail, similar to a picatinny, embedded on the inside of the forearm, roughly covered 1/3rd by a box shape. Forearms shall have a box on the bottom the wrist end. Each box shall have a single black square in the lower inside corner. Detail box includes a black rectangle on small edge perpendicular and closest to wrist. Gloves/Handplates For 501st approval: All black Extend underneath the forearm Palm, thumb and forefinger area is made from leather or leather-like material Handplates are rigid square boxes and the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove The oval detail is aligned with the index finger of each hand Abdomen Section For 501st approval: The abdomen section must wrap around the wearer's body. The abdomen consists of two separate sections: the upper plate, and the lower plate which rests beneath the belt. The upper section has a half-moon curve in the bottom-middle of the plate and two vertical grooves on either side of the half-moon. Belt For 501st approval: The belt is ribbed and made from a rubber or a rubber like material There are 2 horizontal boxes on the front, on each side of the center. They are painted white on the outside half and black on the inside half. There is a large vertical white pouch with a cover behind the left side of the wearer. Codpiece For 501st approval: The codpeice sits below the abdomen and under the belt Posterior Armor For 501st approval: The posterior armor sits below the abdomen and under the belt Undersuit For 501st approval: An undergarment must be worn such that the space between the thighs and the belt shows a black material. The black material may be shiny or matte. Thighs For 501st approval: Two flaps rest independently on the back of the thigh below the posterior and above the thigh armor. There are seams on the inside and outside of the thighs. The right thigh (to the wearer) includes a band of black elastic that contains 3 black capsules. The right thigh contains a horizontal series of seamless boxes. The right thigh has a small knee plate attached. The left thigh has a larger knee plate attached with two black notches above it. Knee Gaskets For 501st approval: Gaskets shall be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges. The knee gaskets must cover all exposed areas between the thigh and shin. Shins For 501st approval: There are seams on the inside and outside of the shins. The wearer's left outside shin includes two vertical thin boxes that are seamless. There is a small recessed rectangle at the bottom outside front of the shins . Spats For 501st approval: The spats wrap around the lower ankle. The spats are attached to a black material that covers the stop portion of the boots. Boots For 501st approval: TK boots are allowed If other boots are used: The boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material There is a black flat sole with no heel No buckles or laces Fuel Pack For 501st approval: The pack consists of a rectangular frame, two large tanks, and one smaller tank in between the larger tanks. The large right tank and the smaller middle tank both contain red, circular LEDs in the top and bottom domed sections. The middle tank's top dome is painted black. All three tanks are contained in a black horizontal harness. To the right of the middle tank is a small rectangle box that contains “OII” on its face. The top of the box has a black antenna. At the top of the frame is a fuel guage. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. First Order Flamethrower For 501st approval: Details to be painted black and white per reference photos. The flamethrower connects to the fuel pack with a black mesh hose.
  12. Why wait for Anovos? I'm sure there are guys out there capable of producing this stuff in high quality and earlier.
  13. It looks good to me Scott. I especially enjoy the coloring on the boots.
  14. You just can't make-up your mind Mike! J/k, it's great to see you aiming toward magma again.
  15. It's hard to tell in the photos, but it looks like your biceps are closed using overlap method whereas the thighs are butt-joined. Is that correct?
  16. Looking good! Nice job on the vocoder too. I struggled with that for a long time until I started using a round-tipped brush. Looks like the ear painting is well-done too, but I always find some surprises when I lift the tape. Hopefully you didn't.
  17. I think you'll have more luck with displaying your photos by simply pasting the IMG code here for each photo you want to share. You have a photobucket account, so this is easy. Your photos will display nicely, and inside your thread. I bet you'll get more of a response that way too Joe.
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