Scubacat[TX] Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 This is reserved for the Battlefront 2 Rocket . All are welcome! Link to comment
14166[TX] Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Almost done working on it. 2 Link to comment
14166[TX] Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Rocker trooper with DLT-19 and no chest box. Link to comment
Tarrif[TX] Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 This is a work in progress. Reference Images: Rocket Trooper CRL Rocket Trooper Helmet Tears have 5 vertical black lines. (Source) Lenses may be flat or bubble, smoke or green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. (Source) The "ear" bars have three or four bumps, and is grey or painted grey, with a black outline. (Source) Painting the bumps with rank stripes (Highlighted) in black is optional. Frown is painted black and overlaps the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. (Source) Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. (Source) Tube stripes are medium blue and can be between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. (Source) Rubber brown trim runs the length of the brow from the left to right front helmet traps. (Source) Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted grey. (Source) Area around the vocoder is painted black, matching the reference photos. (Source) Tears, traps, and tube stripes should be decals, but can be hand painted, or decals that replicate hand painted. Traps/tears may be either ANH gray or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray. (Source) A mohawk runs across the top of the helmet from the brow to just before the curve at the rear bottom of the helmet. (Source) (Source) Width of the mohawk is approximately 1.5" (38mm) and tapers slightly towards the base. At the front of the mohawk is a widows peak approximately 1/2" (12mm) and matches reference photos. (Source) The bottom of the widows peak overlaps a portion of the brow trim. (Source) A solid orange line approximately 3/8" (10mm) in width runs the length of the mohawk matching the reference photo. (Source) The line terminates near the rear of the mohawk and is followed by two squares of the same width and color. (Source) The color of the line matches the orange used on the left shoulder bell. Grey stripes approximately 1" (25mm) run parallel to the mohawk and end at the base of the rear traps. (Source) Two long triangles approximately 2" (50mm) in length protrude from each stripe matching reference photos. (Source) A grey rectangle approximately 1.5" (38mm) by .5" (12mm) is painted on the rear of the helmet below the mohawk. (Source) Two hoses are attached to the helmet, one on each side of the vocoder in the indentation where the mic tips would be. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears have no visible screws per side. (Source) Traps/tears and tube stripes are decals (with the correct ROTJ details), not hand-painted. Traps/tears are a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray. (Source) The ends of the frown are rounded, not tapered to points (not like ANH/ESB) and not squared ended like the ESB MKII. (Source) Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. (Source) Eye lenses are bubble style and tinted green. (Source) Ear bars have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). (Source) Neck trim is of an U-type profile rather than a S-type profile. (Source) Mesh must be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. (Source) Hoses Grey ribbed hoses with a 1.25" diameter on each end and 15" to 21" of length from the helmet hose ports to the upper chest box hose ports. Hose from the 1st to 5th rib from the helmet is white in color. (Source) Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. (Source) Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Black textured material with horizontal ribbing, either one or two pieces with no no visible zippers or logos. (Source) Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. (Source) The front of the shoulder straps do not have a wide flat area only small ridges. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Only 4 ridges of the shoulder straps overlap the chest plate. (Source) Rear of shoulder straps are temporarily secured at the back using velcro or magnets and do not free float. (Source) Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The right side shoulder bell is white in color. (Source) The left side shoulder bell is orange in color with a black Imperial cog painted on the center line. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shoulder bells appear to have battle damage. (Source) Upper Arm Armor (biceps) Biceps are fully closed. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Bicep armor is lightly scuffed or battle worn. Overlap construction must be used. Butt joints and cover strips are not allowed. (Source) Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded in to the part. Forearms Forearms are fully closed. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. (Source) Overlap construction must be used. Butt joints and cover strips are not allowed. (Source) Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded in to the part. Hand Plates These shall be clam shell, or snowtrooper-style hand plates. (Source) The hand plates shall be mounted securely over the back of the glove. Gloves Black in color, made of either nylong, kevlar, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. (Source) Chest Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. (Source) A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Fabric or elastic strip connecting chest to back is either black or not present. Chestbox The chestbox is required to have the same configurations as seen in the photo. (Source) The box has five 1" square x 1/8th" thick detail pieces. Buttons are arranged arranged in two rows. Top row: red, white. Bottom row: red, black, white. (Source) Configuration matches the reference photo. There is a 1/8" thick black or dark grey pinstripe border around the square detail pieces There are two,18 mm round indicator lights above the rocker switches. One white, one red respectively. There are 3 rocker switches below the round indicator lights. (Source) The rockers are always gray, white, gray. The gray rockers have red dots or lamps in their bottom. There is a 1/8" thick black pinstripe that runs horizontally across the bottom portion of the box. There is a male silver snap and a silver round disc with cone knob on the lower portion of the box below the horizontal pinstripe. There are two "gear" type greeblies affixed to either end of the lower tube portion of the box. Theses greeblies are silver in color. (Source) Any lights or LED's added to the chest box are required to be approved by GML. Back Back plate contains a "O II" design. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back Armor has no overlap, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. (Source) Rocket Pack Styled after the pack as seen in the Battlefront II video game. A loose interpretation is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged. Compromised of main box, fuel tank at the top of the pack, and exhaust ports on the left and right bottom of the pack. Pack attaches to the O II portion of the Back armor. (Source) (Source) (Source) (Source) (Source) (Source) Abdomen Armor A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. (Source) The Abdomen Armor has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 dark blue + 6 charcoal grey or black) (Source) Buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter. The three dark blue buttons will be the three buttons closest to the belt. Abdomen Armor button area detail matches reference photos. (Source) Kidney & Posterior Armor A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. (Source) A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece. The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. (Source) The edges of the hip area should be rounded/curved. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Kidney/Butt plate should be lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered. Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). Corners of ammo belt are cut at right angles. (Source) The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon style material. (Source) Size is approximately 2" (50mm) wide. The color is to be white to off-white. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via black straps (Source) and are aligned under the left and right outermost boxes of the ammo belt. (Source) The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the Kidney / Posterior armor where the Thermal Detonator is attached. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are two rivets, one on each side of the ammo belt. (Source) The best is has tight horizontal ribbing. (Source) Drop boxes are closed in the back. Thermal Detonator (AKA CO2 Canister) Attaches to the center back of the belt. (Source) This is an all gray cylinder without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length should be approximately the same width of the raised area of the Kidney / Postier armor. (Source) The thermal detonator is attached via white colored clips approximately 1/2" (12.7mm) to 3/4" (19mm) wide. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned half way between center of detonator and the end cap. (Source) The thermal detonator control panel has correct ROTJ details, not ANH/ESB. (Source) Thigh Armor Thigh armor shall be closed in the back. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh secured with three rivets. (Source) One rivet on each end of the ammo belt. One rivet between the third and fourth ammo boxes, counting left to right. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt are rounded off. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The rivets used shall be split rivets or pop rivets. Overlap construction must be used. Butt joints and cover strips are not allowed. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded in to the part. (Source) Lower Leg Armor Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and has two visible rivets securing it to the greave. (Source) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. Overlap construction must be used. Butt joints and cover strips are not allowed. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded in to the part. (Source) Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. (Source) Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. RT-97C Heavy Blaster Rifle Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the RT-97C features a long barrel to increase the firing range of the energy beam projectile. Three scopes increase accuracy and versatility. The first scope is an energy scanner capable of detecting life forms. The second scope is a rangefinder that automatically adjusts the targeting components. The third scope uses infrared heat imaging technology. Based on a real or replica MG-15 machine gun. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Correct style scopes. Silver metal hose is present on the right hand side of barrel between the trigger and "saddle barrel". DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DLT-19 heavy blaster rifle is much more powerful with a much greater range than the E-11 blaster. Because of its powerful, long range capabilities, this rifle is commonly used on Imperial controlled planets with large, clear, open areas. Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side. RPS-6 Rocket Launcher TBD 1 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Great draft up man! Thanks!!! A couple questions/observations... 1) I've never built a ROTJ styled TK...can you explain the "overlap" method for the biceps? 2) Kidney/Posterior...its worded as with or without snaps. In reference I don't see any at all. I think that's it for now. Great job on the draft and big thanks to the trooper who kicked this off. Well done! 1 Link to comment
14166[TX] Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Great draft up man! Thanks!!! A couple questions/observations... 1) I've never built a ROTJ styled TK...can you explain the "overlap" method for the biceps? 2) Kidney/Posterior...its worded as with or without snaps. In reference I don't see any at all. I think that's it for now. Great job on the draft and big thanks to the trooper who kicked this off. Well done!For No. 2, it should be no snaps. Hey thanks! I’m glad we’re getting this to take off!!! Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 @Raider on the overlap method you'll leave a lot more of the plastic on each end (or one of the ends) and put one side over the other and glue it down which allows for sealing without the use of a cover strip. I used that method on my biceps on my imperial assault tank driver and both ends fit into a channel of the mold overlapping each other (even though I had to put a beveled cover strip on top of each side). I can hopefully get a pic tomorrow to explain better haha 1 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 8 hours ago, IcyTrooper said: @Raider on the overlap method you'll leave a lot more of the plastic on each end (or one of the ends) and put one side over the other and glue it down which allows for sealing without the use of a cover strip. I used that method on my biceps on my imperial assault tank driver and both ends fit into a channel of the mold overlapping each other (even though I had to put a beveled cover strip on top of each side). I can hopefully get a pic tomorrow to explain better haha Excellent. Yes I'd like to see that. Thanks! Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 @Raider here are the pics showing the overlap. Both ends overlap each other. This 850 Armor tank kit was nice because the "channels" as I like to call them were molded perfectly to allow for this: 2 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 @IcyTrooper THANK YOU! I've only built using cover strips. So with that method in mind, my question would be...does the source reference clearly depict that method? Currently Level 2 says it is the ONLY acceptable method and I would like some feedback on if that should in fact be the case. @Tarrif would like your input as well. Also...please adjust the posterior/kidney so that there are NO crotch snaps. THANKS TEAM! Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted January 29, 2019 Share Posted January 29, 2019 8 hours ago, Raider said: @IcyTrooper THANK YOU! I've only built using cover strips. So with that method in mind, my question would be...does the source reference clearly depict that method? Currently Level 2 says it is the ONLY acceptable method and I would like some feedback on if that should in fact be the case. @Tarrif would like your input as well. Also...please adjust the posterior/kidney so that there are NO crotch snaps. THANKS TEAM! I can see it in the source image because from the bottom of the raised strip area it doesn't look like the cover strip was added on later and in fact a part of the armor (thus the only way to close it would be by an overlap). It is hard to explain that in text but on our normal cover strip methods you can definitely tell that the cover strip was added after the fact. I know this is done a lot with the video game based characters in 501st (like TK commander, etc.) Hopefully that made some sense. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 @IcyTrooper Excellent. Makes sense. That sounds great to me. My next question (hopefully my last), do we think the pack can use a bit more detailed description? I'm thinking some reference to the buttons and stripes (yellow looks like) in particular...but really any details we think it absolutely must have. I mention this because the chestbox has detailed description, and since every Rocket Trooper pack is identical w/ no variation, maybe we should consider making that a bit specific. Thoughts? @Blackwatch @Scubacat @izzi tagging to get some fresh eyes on it. Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 @Raider Glad it made sense! I guess I could have put in there with the overlap it looks like the lip/cover is molded into the armor. With the pack I'm on the fence on that one as I see where the pack verbiage is being derived from. I know we had some issues with heavy weapons troopers (HWT) on the FISD side with the CRL image being considerably different than what was being approved. The ones getting approved though looked exactly like the game ones and everyone on their own built to the likeness of the video game with very little variation which was awesome! The original CRL image looked like a cross between the new image and a sandtrooper backpack and it confused a lot of people (but was probably good enough at the time it first was released). I think we could add a few more details but also leave the verbiage in there about likeness of the game as to not limit individuals in what it takes to build the pack globally. I know some kits can get a little wordy and specific with details using products that may not be available to everyone or hard to achieve. There is a happy medium in it all I'm sure to keep things consistent. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 14 hours ago, IcyTrooper said: @Raider Glad it made sense! I guess I could have put in there with the overlap it looks like the lip/cover is molded into the armor. With the pack I'm on the fence on that one as I see where the pack verbiage is being derived from. I know we had some issues with heavy weapons troopers (HWT) on the FISD side with the CRL image being considerably different than what was being approved. The ones getting approved though looked exactly like the game ones and everyone on their own built to the likeness of the video game with very little variation which was awesome! The original CRL image looked like a cross between the new image and a sandtrooper backpack and it confused a lot of people (but was probably good enough at the time it first was released). I think we could add a few more details but also leave the verbiage in there about likeness of the game as to not limit individuals in what it takes to build the pack globally. I know some kits can get a little wordy and specific with details using products that may not be available to everyone or hard to achieve. There is a happy medium in it all I'm sure to keep things consistent. Yea...I feel like right now the pack description sounds too vague and potentially leaves room for improper interpretation. I'm not concerned so much w/ the "how" people achieve the look...we don't have to be that specific...but that the look is specifically achieved nonetheless if that makes sense. From a GML/LMO perspective, when it's too vague it can lead to confusion and we end up having to answer more questions on if something is acceptable or not in the legion staff forums. I think it's best to, on our end, try and eliminate as much of that as possible. Will most troopers follow the references and build to accuracy? More than likely. But could a trooper build a loose interpretation that isn't really right and then point to the vague description as their support for why it should be acceptable? That could happen as well. Anyways...I think we are all on the same page lol. So basically...what are the details of the pack that need to be there in order for it to have the look (and since it's a video game character there really is no variation on these)? The buttons, the stripes near the exhaust, the colored stripes on the tank, the colored (gray or black I can't make it out) on the left side of the pack only...those are examples. We are fortunate that the model's pack looks on point. It's a good reference as well. Appreciate the feedback!!! 1 Link to comment
Scubacat[TX] Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 I would have to agree with you @Raider I feel all of this is on track. We should have a full pack description to really be a bit more on point and descriptive so that people can build their own packs if they really need to. Looking great so far though. 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 @Raider Yep I agree with what you said ? I have added a few details below but I feel like I may have gone to crazy. I think some of the crazier stuff we could move to L2 or L3 (like LED's and smoke, etc.) Styled after the pack as seen in the Battlefront II video game. A loose interpretation is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged. Comprised of main box and fuel tank at the top of the pack that creates the look of a "T" and exhaust sections on the left and right bottom of the pack. Main box which is the base of the T will have a recessed section with 3 indents/strips of the same size and width followed by 3 black circles below the lowest of 3 idents/strips. There will also be 3 indents/strips that are black at the bottom of this main box with a silver rectangle offset to the right of the middle-most black indent/strip. The fuel tank at the top will have a raised center section with lips on each end and a seam in the middle that goes through recessed elongated slots that are illuminated or painted orange. Connecting to this center section are two identical caps on each end with evenly spaced recessed elongated slots around each end cap (8 should be visible when looking from the back) follow by a silver/grey circular lip at the end facing outwards. On the inside of each circular end cap there are 3 separate raised circular greeblies that are silver and arranged as per the reference photos. The left and right exhaust sections are similar with visible seams where the edges join. There is a black/silver stripe at the bottom of each section port in the center just before the actual exhaust ports themselves. At the bottom of the exhaust section is an actual exhaust port greeblie that is black and recessed inside each exhaust section. A silver rectangle is present on left exhaust section only and goes the length of the flat section before the curves and slants of the exhaust section. Pack attaches to the O II portion of the back armor via a raised section. 2 Link to comment
izzi[TX] Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 I've been in the middle of moving. I'll look over this on the weekend. 1 Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 stuff like this makes me wish I could fit a TK kit but that aint gonna happen. I love this! Ill give it a good lookover. Theres a lot of work here and a lot to take in. it helps that the chestbox is identical (except the additional square and square colors) to a TIE box, pulled in white plstic with grey trim colors. Easy to source. Ill see if I can work up a new description for the backpack depening on how busy I get tomorrow. Link to comment
izzi[TX] Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Are there any straight on back shots?Right now we only have angled shots to show the bank details. Link to comment
14166[TX] Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Are there any straight on back shots?Right now we only have angled shots to show the bank details. Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Thanks. Its dead at work now and I have the proposal printed out and i am going through it. 1 Link to comment
14166[TX] Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Thanks. Its dead at work now and I have the proposal printed out and i am going through it.Awesome. Hopefully we can get this thing up soon! Link to comment
izzi[TX] Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Sorry, I was talking about in game reference shots for the straight on back detail. I should have been more specific. Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 This may be academic, but Im not a Tk type TX , do we have a list of kits with parts featuring overlap construction? Link to comment
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