IcyTrooper

Glad to see someone is working on it again! We can hopefully get it across the finish line. The CRL text here isn't finalized, so we did the best of what we could on a quick port over, but if the sources show what you are showing (plus the image you linked on another reply), we can still make adjustments and refine it.

Thanks for the clarification, I'm good with the text! I have updated the main text section on the 2nd page. I think we are onto the Hands next?

Excellent! We'll be here when you get it rolling

In my experience with the straps, they either come as you have as straight straps or they come with the wedge connectors already molded into them. The ones with them molded on allow you to attach them via Velcro or magnets. For yours, I'd probably just trim them down since they are feeding into the back armor and that'd fix the floating issue you have.

Have you tried putting a tinting film on the backside of it? That can usually darken it for you.

Very nice, I think you get rid of that decorative stuff (as noted) then you are well on your way!

I got to check that Bicep section out! I do have a question about the text that I have made red. With the mirror image part, is this a double negative if the preceding bullet point says they are not interchangeable? I could just be reading it wrong. I think the rest of it reads well. Forearm Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Proportional to the rest of the costume. Forearms may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. One on each forearm, they are not interchangeable. Each forearm is a mirror image of the other. Forearms have an elongated rectangular appearance with the upper (elbow) end wider than the lower (wrist) end. There is a raised band around the upper section approximately 1/5th the length of the total forearm. The rear panel is smooth with no details. The front panel has an elongated rectangular recess with a piston like detail insert. The insert is painted metallic black or silver. The inside panel has an elongated rectangular recess approximately 3/4" to 1 1/5" (20mm to 30mm) wide which starts at the raised band and runs the length of the forearm ending at the wrist. The front panel has a raised panel detail. The panel has a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half similar in appearance to the bicep raised panel. The raised panel is painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half.

Let's get a working group going for this when the new term kicks in. I have to get movement going again on the Gen 3 Dark Trooper.

Got you added on the list!

For my shadow stormtrooper helmet I've used military helmet pads similar to the ones here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCLM8Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these aren't available at the moment) They are attached via Velcro around the top of the helmet.

Generally, you can do whatever is necessary to maintain proper proportions and still be good (as long as all the other detail requirements are met). What @tipperaryred said is sound advice to tag in your GML into your plans as they will ultimately be the ones approving it. We can provide guidance to all along the way

Thanks for this amazing write-up and attention to detail! I'll review this with the team!

I'll plug into this tomorrow! I'm so sorry.

@DarthBerry nice! Let me look over this with the team, I like it! The only thing that could require some changes are the boots with the black strap, it should go all the way around over the seam. I'll get back to you before that though!

Thanks for the tag! I can check with the LMOs and with the FISD DL, but based on what I'm seeing, this will most likely go to FISD. The rationale will be that despite the description, much of the components are basic TK components with little variation (Task Force TKs have a lot more differences).

The CRL has just one on that side: But @dewannawanga or @smoszer do you have other pics of it?

What @Chaos said to tack them down is good for that. There was a rear reference image that we have that showed a wider strap on the back into a smaller strap where the boxes attach, which is why the L2 detail is smaller for that strap.

Nice job! Yeah I figured the boots could be the weird part!

What @Chaos said is correct! Once we get a model who has the parts put together/putting together with pics we press forward on getting the costume added to the official CRL.

Hello, James! There isn't a certain width for it, just make sure proportions are good

Initial text draft: Jump Pack Solid black in color and styled after the comic reference. A loose interpretation is allowed, but reference accuracy is encouraged. There are four levels/sections to the backpack described below: Top level: A four-sided rectangular detail in the upper one-third of the second level near the wearer's helmet. The sides of the rectangle are longer on the outer edges. Second level: A six-sided coffin shaped detail in the upper two-thirds of the third level. The sides of this shape are longer on the outer edges. Third level: A ten-sided uniquely shaped detail, with two sides that that jut out just above the thruster sections. On each of those two sides there are two rectangular cut-outs that match the reference photos. These cut-outs must be backed with material that is either painted or utilizing LEDs to give a bluish soft glow. Fourth level: There are two obtuse triangular-shaped sections on each side of the jump pack. From these triangular shapes there are two slanted sections where the thrusters are mounted. There are two circular thrusters mounted on each of the slanted sections on each side. The circular thrusters have straight or slightly curved pipes with a ringed section, approximately 1/4 inch (6.35mm), near the top. The inner section of the thrusters must be backed with material that is either painted or utilizes LEDs to give a bluish soft glow. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Third Level: On each of those two sides there are two rectangular cut-outs that match the reference photos. These cut-outs must be backed with material and utilizes LEDs to give a bluish soft glow. Fourth Level: The inner section of the thrusters must be backed with material and utilizes LEDs to give a bluish soft glow.

Veryyyyy good. If we think they are incorporated as one single piece in the reference images we could make that a L2 detail. Some small edits for it: Bicep Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Biceps may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. One on each shoulder and are not interchangeable. Each bicep is a mirror image of the other. Is overlapped by the shoulder bell and may be incorporated with the shoulder bell as one single piece. The bicep has an overall square appearance with the rear panel flaring out slightly the last 1/3rd to 1/4th of the length at the top. There are two raised panel details on the inside and outside of the bicep. Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd length of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half. The upper rear corner of each panel is angled to mimic the bicep rear panel flare. (See CRL Photo for reference). The forward lower corner of each panel is angled rearward. (See CRL Photo for reference). Panels are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. The outer raised panel is raised out more than the inside panel. There is a raised panel on the front side of the bicep which is flared thicker at the top half. There is a vertical rectangular cutout in the center of the panel. There is a vertical rectangular insert with a beveled lower end in the center of the cutout. The top of the insert extends underneath the shoulder bell. There is a recessed grove approximately 1/2 inch (12.7mm) wide around the lower edges of the bicep. This recess is offset slightly upward from the lower edges.

I'm good with what it looks like, @RAIDER what you say? I realized that we also have to drill down the text for it as well. I can get something drafted up.

That looks incredible!!

Nice!!!