IcyTrooper

On mine, it is all elastic and Velcro. The only place I have nylon and Velcro is the part that connects the chest and back plates and then there is an offshoot elastic piece with Velcro that connects to the shoulder armor, it looks like a T.

Much better from what I can! @tipperaryred has some good info for painting in there.

Just jumping in to say, thanks for the suggestion and we'll note that overbelt one, but we are systematically tackling the items line by line in order of the CRL. It helps keep from hopping all over the place and making it realllllly busy.

Did we confirm it is the Merr Sonn Power 5? Is it on an IOC CRL presently that you could link? We are going to be adding the Version 3 helmet option soon. @Dropkick will need to model it, I think we may have gotten the pics but we have to check them out again. I know that we have the text for it prepped. There is a Legion web team CRL backend system transition going on at the moment, so updates to CRLs are sort of in stasis at the moment until that is finalized.

I think that sounds good for the Hand & Finger Armor text: Hand & Finger Armor Hand armor and fingers are gloss black except where annotated. May be separate from or attached to the gloves. The hand & finger armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The hand armor consists of two distinct pieces; a base piece and hand plate. The base piece which sits over the back of the hand is slightly curved across the back of the hand. May have an outside (pinky) edge which is angled down and wrapped around to the palm. May have an inside (thumb) edge which is shorter beginning just aft of the thumb joint and wrapped to the palm. The handplate is flat and elongated with eight sides. There is a square notch in the fingers end of the hand plate. There are six raised elongated rectangles along the outside edge. There is a raised pentagon on the back edge near the wrist. Raised details are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Fingers are armored in 2-3 rigid pieces per finger, proportionate in size to the fingers, with the fingertips ending in contoured trapezoids. There may be small circles on the fingertip pads. The joints between the pieces are segmented to allow movement and have a circle detail resembling a mechanical joint. Mechanical pieces may be present giving the appearance of the finger pieces being attached to the hand base piece. The palms may have flat armor plates attached to the glove’s palm.

It is WAY too early to tell on this one.

If you check under the Holocron on the 501st website after you log in and click COSTUMES / TOTALS and then Special Operations - TX you'll find this nifty little list: Looks like there are currently 11 total (as of 02/25/2025)

Glad to see someone is working on it again! We can hopefully get it across the finish line. The CRL text here isn't finalized, so we did the best of what we could on a quick port over, but if the sources show what you are showing (plus the image you linked on another reply), we can still make adjustments and refine it.

Thanks for the clarification, I'm good with the text! I have updated the main text section on the 2nd page. I think we are onto the Hands next?

Excellent! We'll be here when you get it rolling

In my experience with the straps, they either come as you have as straight straps or they come with the wedge connectors already molded into them. The ones with them molded on allow you to attach them via Velcro or magnets. For yours, I'd probably just trim them down since they are feeding into the back armor and that'd fix the floating issue you have.

Have you tried putting a tinting film on the backside of it? That can usually darken it for you.

Very nice, I think you get rid of that decorative stuff (as noted) then you are well on your way!

I got to check that Bicep section out! I do have a question about the text that I have made red. With the mirror image part, is this a double negative if the preceding bullet point says they are not interchangeable? I could just be reading it wrong. I think the rest of it reads well. Forearm Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Proportional to the rest of the costume. Forearms may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. One on each forearm, they are not interchangeable. Each forearm is a mirror image of the other. Forearms have an elongated rectangular appearance with the upper (elbow) end wider than the lower (wrist) end. There is a raised band around the upper section approximately 1/5th the length of the total forearm. The rear panel is smooth with no details. The front panel has an elongated rectangular recess with a piston like detail insert. The insert is painted metallic black or silver. The inside panel has an elongated rectangular recess approximately 3/4" to 1 1/5" (20mm to 30mm) wide which starts at the raised band and runs the length of the forearm ending at the wrist. The front panel has a raised panel detail. The panel has a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half similar in appearance to the bicep raised panel. The raised panel is painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half.

Let's get a working group going for this when the new term kicks in. I have to get movement going again on the Gen 3 Dark Trooper.

Got you added on the list!

For my shadow stormtrooper helmet I've used military helmet pads similar to the ones here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCLM8Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these aren't available at the moment) They are attached via Velcro around the top of the helmet.

Generally, you can do whatever is necessary to maintain proper proportions and still be good (as long as all the other detail requirements are met). What @tipperaryred said is sound advice to tag in your GML into your plans as they will ultimately be the ones approving it. We can provide guidance to all along the way

Thanks for this amazing write-up and attention to detail! I'll review this with the team!

I'll plug into this tomorrow! I'm so sorry.

@DarthBerry nice! Let me look over this with the team, I like it! The only thing that could require some changes are the boots with the black strap, it should go all the way around over the seam. I'll get back to you before that though!

Thanks for the tag! I can check with the LMOs and with the FISD DL, but based on what I'm seeing, this will most likely go to FISD. The rationale will be that despite the description, much of the components are basic TK components with little variation (Task Force TKs have a lot more differences).

The CRL has just one on that side: But @dewannawanga or @smoszer do you have other pics of it?

What @Chaos said to tack them down is good for that. There was a rear reference image that we have that showed a wider strap on the back into a smaller strap where the boxes attach, which is why the L2 detail is smaller for that strap.

Nice job! Yeah I figured the boots could be the weird part!