IcyTrooper

Beat ya too it, got them up on the reference thread about 10 mins ago! Glad to see someone else watching it like a hawk. It will be good to have these as supplementary images for building and development. We are working on a few CRLs right now so we will have to allocate some additional help to this one as we can.

Okay, I'm back! I'm so so so sorry for this. I made a slight change to the undersuit on to add a second bullet point as follows and then updated the finalized text: Undersuit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Neck seal and elbow/knee gaskets may be attached to or part of the undersuit. The black material may be shiny or matte. The neck seal and apron looks good as below: Neck Seal and Apron Neck seal has horizontal ribs. Extends from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck and is fitted to the wearer. No hair or skin should be visible around the neck area. It has a concealed overlap which joins at the back of the neck. The neck seal may be attached to a smooth black apron which is made of the same or similar material as the neck seal. The apron is worn over the top of the undersuit and under the chest and back armor. I condensed the gaskets to one section for it since they all had close to the same text, and then just said "by armor": Gaskets Elbow, wrist, ankle, and knee gaskets (if used in lieu of a segmented armor joint): The gaskets must cover any area not covered by armor. Gaskets may be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges (similar to the TFA Elite Stormtrooper). May have the appearance of being segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The elbow, wrist, knee, and ankle joints are segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. I am trying to get caught back up on the discussion about the joints. We need to pay special attention to the CGI joints and ensure that we can replicate them correctly, whether they are functional or not. The most attention will need to be paid to the waist area since that was a big point of contention when we were petitioning to get the CRL.

We don't have an updated full suit up image, but once we get that we'll edit it quickly and upload. The LMOs are standing by to push it once we get that. I'm hoping within the next week!

G'day, friend! I finally got to this thread! Before I start you have some great questions here and I'll do my best to answer them. We do also have a vendor list here (I'm going to attempt to update it again soon): 1. Aiming for Specialist out of the gate is a good plan! 2. You are on the right track, we allow for the lenses to be either flat or bubbled. Curved is just the shaping that you'd get if you were using straight lenses as they bridge the gap between the open eye holes. 3. The Shadow Stormtrooper and Crimson Stormtrooper are indeed mostly seen in the ANH Stunt format. We have had a mixture of those in both with bubbled lenses, but there is no true this or that for the L2 side of things when it comes to the lenses shape being flat or bubbled. Just be careful with the hero helmet teeth to make sure that you have the correct number as per the CRL. I'd say most people are using flat lenses these days (easier to see out of and install). 4. WTF is about the only one I've seen using the red ABS for the kit. I know that the red that he uses is a little more different from the red crimson stormtrooper boots you'd find on Imperial Boots (now known as Keep Trooping), so there was time when you could request through Keep Trooping to have the leather changed to more closely match that of the WTF kit. I do believe that many are painting them now. This thread has some good paint: 5. So when you get a kit from someone, there is some trimming that is done post-mold after it is pulled. I'd probably just stick with that so that there isn't too much trimming done if you have to make adjustments. I know that the WTF kits come with the S-trim and the proper ears, but I'd imagine that all kits will come with the right ears and plastic parts, but not sure if they'll all come with the S-trim and other stuff like Hovi-tips, etc. I think the only way someone would have it not meet L2 is if it doesn't fit right or the edges around the ab/chest/back/kidney appear to be raised/molded as they would in ROTJ. 6. The E-11 version is generally the ANH one, but dependent on the GMLs I'd imagine they'd allow any version. I'd check with the GML to see what is acceptable since our CRL doesn't specifically call out the movie version. There is a vendor that does a 3D printed version of the DLT-20a that I have on the vendor list. It is a good model too. 7. I'd say do whatever you fancy more! The lack of a recent WIP thread doesn't mean much as the costumes are so very similar, so the building would be the same, just depends on the kit if there are any small nuances. 8. I'm not at all up to speed with 3D printers at all, so I won't be of much help there. I can see if we can have a 3D printer expert chime in here.

Well done!!

We are currently awaiting a new image to edit and upload and then I believe we'll be good to go!

Alternatively, Trooper Bay has lenses as well and they also have a chrome film that can go over it: https://trooperbay.com/product-category/lenses-eyewear/

This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Helmet Neck Seal Under Suit Cape Shoulder Straps Shoulder Armor Biceps Forearms Hand Plates Gloves Chest Armor Back Armor Abdomen Armor Kidney Armor Posterior Armor Belt Holster Thigh Armor Lower Leg Armor Boots DLT-19x Targeting Rifle (Optional) ------------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------ Description: SCAR Squadron - Task Force 99: Misty (#59/60) Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars by Marvel Comics TEXT HERE For 501st membership only the requirements listed in black need to be met. Black text indicates a feature that is required for approval. Blue text denotes requirements for Level 2 "Specialist," but is not required for basic approval. Visit the Spec Ops website for a full description of these standards. Special Notes: The armor is gloss white and gloss black in the appropriate spots, or as noted. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed. --------------------------------------------

Hello! @tipperaryred did a great job explaining the rationale behind the change. With the newer games we are getting a lot of good images to establish differences. Another example of this is with the Battlefront Shadow Stormtrooper that has longer drop boxes, from the standard shadow stormtrooper. I'm quite disheartened to hear that the challenge of obtaining L2 Specialist clearance isn't fun because of lack of vendors. L1/basic approval is supposed to be accessible to everyone across the globe allowing for ease of construction and build based on materials that are local to you, while still maintaining as much unity with the costume. L2/L3 is not a requirement for being a member of the 501st and often requires unique solutions, building, or sourcing to enhance the details of your costume to the L2/L3 level(s). I'd encourage working with vendors to see if they would be able to procure something that meets the Specialist requirements. In this new age 3D prints are becoming very accessible for special parts (as long as print lines are removed).

Alright, we have the LMO review completed for the time being and have made a few small corrections with the Helmet, Goggles and Boots: We are removing the following text from the Helmet - Version 1 as it is already contained within the L2 details under Goggles - Version 1: Goggles and strap may be permanently mounted to the helmet, with the telemetry unit mounted directly atop the goggle strap. In the Goggles - Version 1 text we are going to have the following in the L1/basic clearance: Goggles and strap may be permanently mounted to the helmet, with the telemetry unit mounted directly atop the goggle strap. ------------------- In the Boots we are moving the following from L1/basic to L2: If seams are present they are at the rear only.

Hello, Asher, I'll see if I can answer this for you. LONG ANSWER: Since Spec Ops has a lot of the expanded universe costumes (e.g., comics, video games, etc.) mixed with screen-time costumes (e.g., Death Trooper, First Order Flametrooper, etc.) we have very differing ways of handing each CRL. When it comes to comics and video games, depending on the game and comic, there is sometimes very limited detail/poly-count depending on the age of the game, or artistic differences when it comes to comics. For the shadow stormtrooper, that was a costume that we created a CRL for a long time ago, and throughout the years we've had supporting refences in the form of black series figures to allow us to shape the CRL for the most accessible versions of the kit. What this means is that we follow the ANH style armor for these costumes (EXCEPT for allowing a fused back/kidney armor; and then regular cover strips with butt joints, no clam-shell hand guards, etc.) over the Rogue One newer style which has vastly different cover strips, joining of the chest/back plate, different back plate, helmet, etc.). The Rogue One style is a lot newer and our CRLs have no supporting evidence currently to allow for a Rogue One stylization. With the Imperial Army Troopers, those came out of comics and we took the most common detailing across most comic panels and applied it to the costume to develop something that was feasible and would represent the costume well. A lot of discussion went into the coloration (dirty vs. clean, etc.) and we did this with models who developed the kits and gained input from the Spec Ops/501st community. With the Imperial Death Troopers, there is plenty of on-screen imagery for the development of that CRL, so it is pretty straight forward. For our lower poly/detailed video game characters such as the Novatroopers, Imperial Navy Commando, etc. we followed similar logic to that of the shadow stormtrooper above for the ease of the costume and consistency amongst members across the 501st. Every so often we may find a new reference somewhere that allows us to reopen CRLs to add details, or the creation of a black series figurine as a supporting reference to allow for such modifications. On the newer video games, costumes such as the Battlefront Shadow Stormtrooper (different from the regular Shadow Stormtrooper) used ROTJ models, thus the CRL follows the logic of requiring a black version of the ROTJ with some modifications to accurately represent the costume. I believe that with the new Star Wars Outlaws game they are using a Rogue One style model from what I've seen, despite the era the game takes place in, which may drive for additional modeling on any Spec Ops costumes that may come from that game if it has add-ons/patches later. I don't have the game so I'm unaware of the costumes that are in it, but I do know that the Imperial Death Trooper is in that game. SHORT ANSWER: If you are looking to do the shadow stormtrooper costume found here: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_shadow_stormtrooper, then you want an ANH style armor (with the exception for the allowance of a fused back/kidney armor singular armor plate). Be aware that ROTJ armor often has the molded edges on it and thus would have to be removed.

Love a good black armor shine!

It looks like you have it in the proper position. It may feel better if stuff is lowered a little when wearing that TK ammo belt. It was also done that way here too:

Nice!!

Hey, Jonathan! While we don't recommend the FX kit in Spec Ops, there is nothing that prohibits you in the CRL from making it and it obtaining approval (https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_shadow_stormtrooper)

I second what @DarthBobo said, that is good advice. A way you could bring the thighs up is to convert the snaps over to Velcro or something like that so that it is more adjustable. If you are going to trim most people trim from the top part of the thigh following the curve of it around taking off a little at the time. As mentioned before, that right bicep should be under the shoulder armor. If you are going to trim off the forearm start at the wrist rather than at the elbow.

As @Chaos mentioned our reference photos do not need to have the L2 details. That is something we have debated about in the past and I have felt that although it is nice to have those details, sometimes it can confuse GMLs. It is better to put stuff like that in the gallery function or on the forum and reference it there. Here is the text we should be good with now: Helmet Gloss black in color, consistent with the rest of the costume and proportion. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. The helmet may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The dome of the helmet is segmented into three sections. The center larger section is raised above the two side sections. The brow extends out beyond the lenses forming an overhang. There is a horizontal recess approximately 1.5" x 1/10" (38.1mm x 2.5mm) centered above the eyes approximately 1/5" to 1/2" (5mm to 12mm) above the lower edge of the brow. There are elongated trapezoids present on each side. These have the appearance of being vented with 18-20 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. There are two trapezoids present on the upper rear of the helmet similar in appearance to the Stormtrooper but are slightly wider. These have the appearance of being vented with 13-14 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. The eye lenses are inverted triangular in shape and separated. The lenses have a red tint which is or has the appearance of being illuminated. If illumination is used it shall give the eyes the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam. Lens shall obscure the wearer’s eyes. There may be a small rectangular indent at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose. Helmet has a lower section which is flared outward slightly which begins at the lower back half and extends around each side to the front ending even with the most forward edge of the side elongated trapezoids. There are three ridges that gradually step down into the neck of the wearer when viewing from behind. The cheeks below the eyes have raised triangular ridges which begin at the flared section and end at the nose piece. The top of the nose is flat with a raised section which extends up between the eyes into the brow. The nose consists of: Vocoder with 8 vertical flat raised ridges. The middle 4 are longer and equal in size. The next two are shorter than the middle, and the two outer ridges are the shortest as per the reference photos. The nose section below the vocoder has a trapezoid shape with raised details and two knobs as per the reference photos. The raised detail is a single large square with four smaller vertical rectangles on each corner. There are two “wide knurled knobs” approximately 1/2" to 3/4" (12.7mm to 20mm) in diameter located on the lower corners. There is a flat curved “mandible” on each lower side part of the helmet that extends around the back of the helmet as if it were one piece. There is a raised elongated cap with a recessed center at the end of each mandible. There are three elongated rectangle recesses on each side of the mandibles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The eye lenses are illuminated with the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam. The is a small rectangular indent present at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose.

That is an interesting find! That is definitely the planet they were on. I'll have to see what the LMOs say on that since we submitted it as Night Death Trooper.

@Chaos On the first page of the post I linked to your post here: https://forum.specops501st.com/topic/8662-dark-trooper-generation-3-mandalorian-crl-discussion/page/2/#comment-113794 for the editable post to focus on each piece of the costume. Great work on the Helmet, I have paste it here in format and noted any changes in purple: Helmet Gloss black in color, consistent with the rest of the costume and proportion. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. The helmet may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The dome of the helmet is segmented into three sections. The center larger section is raised above the two side sections. The brow extends out beyond the lenses forming an overhang. There is a horizontal recess approximately 1.5" x 1/10" (38.1mm x 2.5mm) centered above the eyes approximately 1/5" to 1/2" (5mm to 12mm) above the lower edge of the brow. There are elongated trapezoids present on each side. These have the appearance of being vented with 18-20 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. There are two trapezoids present on the upper rear of the helmet similar in appearance to the Stormtrooper but are slightly wider. These have the appearance of being vented with 13-14 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. The eye lenses are inverted triangular in shape and separated. The lenses have a red tint which is or has the appearance of being illuminated. If illumination is used it shall give the eyes the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam. Lens shall obscure the wearer’s eyes. There is a small rectangular indent at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose. Helmet has a lower section which is flared outward slightly which begins at the lower back half and extends around each side to the front ending even with the most forward edge of the side elongated trapezoids. There are three ridges the gradually step down into the neck of the wearer when viewing from behind. The cheeks below the eyes have raised triangular ridges which begin at the flared section and end at the nose piece. The top of the nose is flat with a raised section which extends up between the eyes into the brow. The nose consists of: Vocoder with 8 vertical flat raised ridges. The middle 4 are longer and equal in size. The next two are shorter than the middle, and the two outer ridges are the shortest as per the reference photos. The nose section below the vocoder has a trapezoid shape with raised details and two knobs as per the reference photos. The raised detail is a single large square with four smaller vertical rectangles on each corner. There are two “wide knurled knobs” approximately 1/2" to 3/4" (12.7mm to 20mm) in diameter located on the lower corners. There is a flat curved “mandible” on each lower side part of the helmet that extends around the back of the helmet as if it were one piece. There is a raised elongated cap with a recessed center at the end of each mandible. There are three elongated rectangle recesses on each side of the mandibles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The eye lenses are illuminated with the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam.

Almost there!

@Chaos sorry about that! I'm diving in!

Everything on the first post has been updated! Time for @Gree23 to knock it out of the park!

Yeah our blasters should be good! I'll get the finalized text on the first page updated soon!

Thank you @RAIDER and all. The Knee Armor should be simple: Knee Armor Knees are painted to match the rest of the armor. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. Knee may have 2 elastic straps securing the knee armor in place, with the top strap being smaller than the bottom, about 1/2" (12.7mm). If a rivet is used to secure the second strap, it must be painted to match the rest of the armor, blending in with the knee paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has only one elastic strap measuring 1" (25.4mm) wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor.