IcyTrooper

@Chaos sorry about that! I'm diving in!

Everything on the first post has been updated! Time for @Gree23 to knock it out of the park!

Yeah our blasters should be good! I'll get the finalized text on the first page updated soon!

Thank you @RAIDER and all. The Knee Armor should be simple: Knee Armor Knees are painted to match the rest of the armor. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. Knee may have 2 elastic straps securing the knee armor in place, with the top strap being smaller than the bottom, about 1/2" (12.7mm). If a rivet is used to secure the second strap, it must be painted to match the rest of the armor, blending in with the knee paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has only one elastic strap measuring 1" (25.4mm) wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor.

Congrats on your approval into the 501st! We're here for your Del Meeko! Don't forget to request 501st access here: https://forum.specops501st.com/forum/130-access-requests/

Glad to see you back here, Adam! Here is a good vendor for that: https://imperialissue.com/product/canvas-belt

The CRL has been officially submitted to the LMOs for final review with the text and images in the wiki.

Thanks for this text, @Chaos! I'll check this out. As far as the Hot Toys reference goes, we are able to gleam some details from it for CRL use, as you mentioned. We did some of that with the Purge Trooper Phase II, especially with the kama details (among other parts).

The joys of 3D printing...the sandinggggggggggg

Welcome to the group! Can't wait to see the progress!

Ahhh shoot, it is probably cause it is oil based paint which ups it classification. Did they say they only shIp USPS? I thought UPS or FedEx could do it as they are cargo aircraft only. @v7sg you have any tips or tricks for stuff to P.R. like this? I'm aware of shipping restrictions due to hazmat and chemicals on aircraft, which I'd assume is the reason for the embargo on it.

I split this into another thread as the CRL discussion thread is for creating the CRL. I agree with @Gree23, I think there is that base olive-green undertone but the forest green and brown is more earthy rubbed/blended in I'd say. Almost like it is brushed on perhaps?

I'm good with this.

Just a side note here, the LMOs have officially approved this costume as a NTTL costume with placement in our detachment. We can continue CRL development and any building!

Good news, the LMOs have approved this as a NTTL costume for placement with us, we can continue the CRL development and costume refinements!

Great job on the painting! I agree, that magnet/metal setup for the mask is great to have for the convenience, that is how my TIE pilot is setup.

Onto the Belt and Detonator text. I updated the drop box straps for L1 to allow for a slide release buckle or the T-buckle/clamp buckle style and then in L2 requiring the T-buckle/clamp buckle style as the reference images show something different from a standard plastic slide one. I Google'd T-buckle and found some hits that show it somewhat similar to that one the reference images. I'm not sure about the rest of the text, we have a copy over from the Shadow Scout and Swamp Trooper. Belt and Detonator Belt and TD are painted to match the rest of the armor. The front and four "boxes" of the belt are made of hard material. Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes (drop boxes) connected to the belt by 1.5" (40mm) black textile straps. Each drop box strap is threaded behind a black side release buckle, or T-buckle/clamp buckle, centered on the strap. Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular thermal detonator box with short black corrugated hose. Accurate thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the left side of the detonator, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. On the right hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper. See the detonator detail page for a close up image of the greeblies. The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 2" (50mm) black cotton or nylon belt secured on each end of the belt with a single rivet painted to match the rest of the armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The belt is made from a one-piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended. The straps attached to the drop boxes to the belt are made from 1.5" (40mm) black cotton webbing. Drop boxes hang the correct distance from the belt. Nylon webbing is inaccurate. The buckle on each drop box strap are a T-buckle/clamp buckle style, matching the reference photos. Thermal Detonator end caps to be concave and not flat. Optional: Thermal Detonator must have visible black clips attaching it to the web belt. Optional: Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube. Optional: Thermal Detornator may have Hex shaped cap with a center "nipple" detail.

Still waiting to hear back from the LMOs on inclusion of this new-to-the-legion (NTTL) costume into the 501st and placement (if able) into Spec Ops. We should hear any day now.

For the Cummerbund, I have been trying to find any differences in it, and so far I found that the front part of ribbing shows 7 ribs, so I adjusted that. I also adjusted the color to say olive-green in L1 details and for L2 we should do like we did for the chest-to-back shoulder bridge fabric being dyed or painted to match that of the armor it connects to: Cummerbund Made from black fabric. Closes in back with 2" (50mm) hook and loop fastener. Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist. There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund. Cummerbund should be made of same or similar fabric to the vest. Has a tapered cod section with inverted curve sewn in detail (not a chevron). Cod is olive-green in color and made of the same type of fabric/material as the cummerbund. Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a 2" (50mm) black elastic strap. Front of cummerbund has 5-7 equal ribs stitched, centered between the two black fabric pouches. Ribs are of equal width. Ribs are completely visible between the pouches. Cummerbund touches the bottom of the chest armor. Cummerbund slightly overlaps the belt. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Made from the Cummerbund tutorial page. The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest. There is no visible external edge stitching on the cummerbund, the cod or pouch flaps. Pouches are made from a matte black heavy cotton or canvas like material. Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch. Pouch size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang. Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL and source art, and is dyed or painted to match that of the armor. Cod strap runs between the legs, but attaches to the flightsuit or some other area under the butt flap, and does not show overtop. Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area. Optional: Codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the flight suit.

Here is the final text for the Back Armor with that updated rivet: Back Armor Back and tank are painted to match the rest of the armor. The back armor has a center tank attached and may feature a single bottom attachment rivet. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used ROTJ Biker Scout armor. Top detail piece is painted matte black. The tank has black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 7 stripes. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible. Has 7 stripes details on both sides on tank. Bullet tank on the back armor has NO tank topper greebles detail. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and if a single bottom attachment rivet is present, it must be painted to blend in with armor. Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable.

I didn't catch that initially, yeah there really is no way to tell if that is there. However, that may be something that is required to keep the tank on the armor yeah? If so, maybe we change the text that if that rivet is present it is painted to match the color of the rest of the armor?

I agree with this assessment as well, as evident in these shots:

Yes we can! I have put them on the first page as such. Onto the Back Armor text, some changes in L2 to show no tank topper greeblies. Back Armor Back and tank are painted to match the rest of the armor. The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used ROTJ Biker Scout armor. Top detail piece is painted matte black. The tank has black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 7 stripes. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible. Has 7 stripes details on both sides on tank. Bullet tank on the back armor has NO tank topper greebles detail. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment rivet, painted to blend in with armor. Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable.

I agree with most of that, low-poly has given us a good ability to upscale some stuff on our end. I mentioned that to the LMOs in the past to ensure that we have good quality on what we see. We could refine our costumes for that for sure, it would be a grandfathered scenario as you suggested.