IcyTrooper

Onto the Vest and Chest Armor text and looks to be standard at least with the Vest. The Chest Armor we'll need to take a look on the shoulder connections, as it isn't easy to see the connection. Vest Made out of black fabric. Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund. The sleeves are just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor. Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit. Secured at the back using 2" (50mm) black hook and loop fastener. Vest should be made of same or similar fabric to the cummerbund. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund. Made using the Vest tutorial. ------------------------------------ Chest Armor Painted to match the rest of the armor. There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that must be painted black. The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a loop of black fabric or olive-green fabric. The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with black webbing or elastic. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of fabric that is dyed or painted to match that of the armor it connects. Nylon webbing is inaccurate. Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 1.5" (40mm) black webbing or elastic strap.

Good day, Jeremy. Here is the compad from the CRL: Ultimately, the call is up to your GML, but I'd say it is fine for basic approval. On the small block there are 4 drilled out holes for the LEDs which isn't on the CRL compad, but again, I don't think that should hold up approval for basic.

Correcting the finalized text for the Helmet and Boots: Helmet Helmet is painted to match armor. Scout style helmet accurate in shape and form. Eye lens is black or dark green. Flat or concave elevator bolts. Accurate squared emblem is located on the left faceplate "blinder". A mirrored accurate squared emblem may also be located on the right faceplate "blinder". Snout is gray with black details. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Details are the correct color and placed as shown. Scout style details are present, either painted or decals. Ear holes are correctly shaped and have no mesh. Black 3M Speedglas bolts or replicas mount the faceplate to the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). Accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted gray with black details. Please see the gallery for the accurate in-game snout. Accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder" and a mirrored accurate squared emblem located on the right faceplate "blinder". Accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern. Accurate three lines on center of forehead area. No visible seams on the dome. No visible "vent" detail/indentions on lower right of back of helmet. ------------------------------- Boots and Boot Shafts Marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance, used to construct the boot shaft, and is painted/weathered to match the rest of the armor. Each boot shaft has the following details: Two (2) black straps, made of leather, leather-like material, or marine vinyl and are approximately 1" (25.4mm) wide. Each strap wraps completely around the leg, beginning and ending at the back of the boot. The seam of each strap closure terminates on the rear of the boot shaft. Boot shaft terminates just below the knee armor and a seam may be present on the back of the leg of each boot shaft. The soles of the boots are gray. A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot and is black in color. Marine vinyl is also used. Toe of the boot is black marine vinyl, leather or leather-like material. The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25.4mm) black hook and loop fastener. Slightly textured vinyl, leather or leather-like material is acceptable. No holster is present on the boot. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The boots have slots cut into the sides and sole, but not on the toe part of the boot. The boot sole is a single gray color with no visible stitching. Boot shaft closure is inside over outside, opposite of normal scout boots. Boot shaft black strap closure seams are offset of that of the rear seam from the boot shaft closure. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e., not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Stitching, if any, used for the boot should be colored or painted to blend in to the area they are used.

I do understand what you are saying about the snout now I think a good way to do this would be to update both the Swamp Trooper and this text to have a gallery image of the helmet on the CRL that persons aiming for L2 can reference, especially if the model doesn't have it. I'd like to keep L1 for an either or and then L2 need to one from in the game. ------------------ For the decal on both sides of the blinder, I went to the Swamp Trooper reference photos as it is a reskin from what I can tell: vs I just don't think there is enough to conclusively say one or the either since it is so low-poly. I'd be inclined to utilize the "C" decal for both sides and mirror them from each other under L2. We may need to update the text on both the Swamp Trooper to specifically talk about the decal only needing to be present on the left side for L1 and for L2 that it needs to be on both and mirrored for the right. This is a super good discussion.

We could make the L2 details for the boots to state that the slots are only present on the sides and not the toes. The boots have slots cut into the sides and sole, but not on the toe part of the boot. So, we do have the fish hook on both sides in the L2 text: Accurate squared emblem located on the left and right faceplate "blinder". We could add that it is mirrored on the right faceplate "blinder": Accurate squared emblem located on the left and right faceplate "blinder". The emblem is mirrored on the right faceplate "blinder". I do agree with the snout being accurate in the L2 side, so we did put that in there. We have a variation of that text in both the Swamp Trooper and the Shadow Scout as well: Accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted gray with black details. Are you saying that it needs to be less detailed? The Swamp Trooper has the same text that we used for this one minus adding the part about painting the upper armor to match the rest of the armor. This is our current text: Upper Arm Armor Painted to match the rest of the armor. Armor has a recessed area with a contrasting black "T-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around the arm with a 1.5" (40mm) black elastic strap. Accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to the armor. T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm.

Got another two easy ones from the looks of it for the Forearm Armor and Gloves: Forearm Armor Painted to match the rest of the armor. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around the arm with a 1" (25.4mm) black elastic strap. ------------------------------- Gloves Black leather and gauntlet length. Detailed gloves include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Suede or faux suede padding on fingers and inside of thumb and correct gauntlet stitching.

On the first page and post of this thread I went in and update the "Special Notes" section to say the following: When specified, costume parts will be painted in a camouflage similar to that found in the reference photos: Tan base base coat (see note about white showing through below). Camo patterns colored dark green and dark brown . May be slightly weathered to look as if white is showing through with minor scuffs/dirt We can specify Pantones or like colors and hex codes as needed for general guidelines as well.

Going to do the Shoulder and Upper Arm Armor together. I agree with it being the same as we have seen with the other scout costumes. I'm moving any text about "painted to match the rest of the armor" as the first bullet for pieces: Shoulder Armor Painted to match the rest of the armor. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. Shoulder pieces do not have any adornment. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around bicep with a 0.5" (12mm) black elastic strap. Bottom corners are rounded. Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops. ------------- Upper Arm Armor Painted to match the rest of the armor. Armor has a recessed area with a contrasting black "T-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around the arm with a 1.5" (40mm) black elastic strap. Accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to the armor. T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm.

Just an update to this that the text is being entered and images are still being edited.

The Balaclava should be good with the standard text here: Balaclava A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair. So, the Flight Suit is the next piece and I agree with the higher level requiring the removal of thigh patches. I made some corrections for consistency: Flight Suit The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately. Stand-up collar conceals the neck with an enclosing strap to keep the collar closed. Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund and is rectangular in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stops slightly higher than the bottom edge of the troopers backside. Suede or faux suede thigh patches may be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 2" (50mm) black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch. See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below. Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Suit is fairly fitted and not baggy. Black suede or faux suede thigh riding patch is removed. The 2" (50mm) black elastic runs completely around the leg/thigh. Real black suede square/rectangular butt patch is attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund sits. No external visible stitching. Size will differ slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale is maintained.

Back to the Helmet again. From the reference images I think we should only allow black or dark green lenses and not mirrored for the purposes of this costume (similar to what was done for the Swamp Trooper, from this game). I agree with the rest of the text that was proposed here, especially the snout being gray, squad emblem on both sides and removal of lower right rear vent details/indentions. We should go with a Special Notes section for the painting notes and then just state "...is painted to match armor" on most pieces that have it. That would allow for better consistency. Helmet Helmet is painted to match armor. Scout style helmet accurate in shape and form. Eye lens is black or dark green. Flat or concave elevator bolts. Snout is gray with black details. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Details are the correct color and placed as shown. Scout style details are present, either painted or decals. Ear holes are correctly shaped and have no mesh. Black 3M Speedglas bolts or replicas mount the faceplate to the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). Accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted gray with black details. Accurate squared emblem located on the left and right faceplate "blinder". Accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern. Accurate three lines on center of forehead area. No visible seams on the dome. No visible "vent" detail/indentions on lower right of back of helmet.

This would be what we are looking at now: Boots and Boot Shafts Marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance, used to construct the boot shaft, and is painted/weathered to match the rest of the armor. Each boot shaft has the following details: Two (2) black straps, made of leather, leather-like material, or marine vinyl and are approximately 1" (25.4mm) wide. Each strap wraps completely around the leg, beginning and ending at the back of the boot. The seam of each strap closure terminates on the rear of the boot shaft. Boot shaft terminates just below the knee armor and a seam may be present on the back of the leg of each boot shaft. The soles of the boots are gray. A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot and is black in color. Marine vinyl is also used. Toe of the boot is black marine vinyl, leather or leather-like material. The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25.4mm) black hook and loop fastener. Slightly textured vinyl, leather or leather-like material is acceptable. No holster is present on the boot. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The boots have a flat sole with notches accurate to the visual model cut in. The boot sole is a single gray color with no visible stitching. Boot shaft closure is inside over outside, opposite of normal scout boots. Boot shaft black strap closure seams are offset of that of the rear seam from the boot shaft closure. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e., not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Stitching, if any, used for the boot should be colored or painted to blend in to the area they are used.

I see what you mean now, I think that we just state that the straps close on the rear of the boot shaft and not get hyper-specific unless for L2. On the right leg is to the left of the boot shaft seam as well?

I may need to clarify it in the post and for the straps themselves, but the seam I'm talking about is the one for the boot shaft here:

That is a very interesting pull. Often times you can even it out by cutting into the other piece but honestly, I don't think that is going to work this time around and would make the helmet very small and disproportionate.

Going to try and finalize this Boot text here: Boots and Boot Shafts Marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance, used to construct the boot shaft, and is painted/weathered to match the rest of the armor. Each boot shaft has the following details: Two (2) black straps, made of leather, leather-like material, or marine vinyl and are approximately 1" (25.4mm) wide. Each strap wraps completely around the leg, beginning and ending at the back of the boot. A seam may be present on the back of the leg of each boot shaft. Boot shaft terminates just below the knee armor. The soles of the boots are gray. A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot and is black in color. Marine vinyl is also used. Toe of the boot is black marine vinyl, leather or leather-like material. The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25.4mm) black hook and loop fastener. Slightly textured vinyl, leather or leather-like material is acceptable. No holster is present on the boot. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The boots have a flat sole with notches accurate to the visual model cut in. The boot sole is a single gray color with no visible stitching. Boot shaft closure is inside over outside, opposite of normal scout boots. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e., not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Stitching, if any, used for the boot should be colored or painted to blend in to the area they are used.

I agree, this looks great!

Looking at the reference images, it looks like the sides of the soles have some texturing like an outdoor boot. We haven't finalized the boot text on the CRL discussion thread yet to my knowledge, that is something I'm going to dive into this week (had a death in the family). It may be worth discussion on L2 detail to have that detail on the side of the sole, kind of like how scout boots are cut out.

That may be a little update, but it is a great one!!

Exactly as @DoggyDoc said! The wrist removal is quite the welcomed removal

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IMPORTANT INFO: The Spec Ops Detachment does not endorse any Vendor over any others. It is up to you the Trooper to do the research and exercise due diligence when purchasing any products from Vendors. The Spec Ops Detachment does not get involved in any disputes that a customer may have with a Vendor and even though these Vendors are considered to be in “Good Standing,” it is not uncommon for issues to arise that must be worked out between the buyer and seller. The Spec Ops Detachment endorses a “Buyer Beware” philosophy on any and all transactions. Last updated: TBD XX, XXXX ------------------------------------------------ Purge Trooper Phase I: Commander Helmet: ------------------------------------------------ Purge Trooper Phase I: Electrostaff Specialist Helmet: ------------------------------------------------ Purge Trooper Phase II Helmet:

@dewannawanga and @smoszer you guys have any input as well? Thanks @Kenyon

I think we are done! I put the finalized text one the 1st page. The images are being edited now, so we can start putting the text in with image placeholders until we get those uploads down on the wiki.

The CRL is live! https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Purge_trooper_p2