IcyTrooper

We all agree on changing the verbiage for the raised rectangular sections on the ab plate, though? I think it is a good idea to have a measurement there and change the wording.

Hello, Todd! Yeah that is an interesting design that is for sure, I'm wondering if that was one of the first run 850 DTs that is out there. That gasket should go all the way down and if I remember right those should be solid all the way around. @nanotek and @Chaos?

I think we may have done it as a L2 for inclusion across the basic level, but I honestly can't remember. I know that some members do separate the ab and cod on regular kits if they are very tall or short in order to make it look like it fits better. I don't think it is a very visible difference in the kit and thus the reason for L2. You can't make that out from a casual look but someone who is very into the detail would notice it.

In going through the review @nanotek and I had a discussion about enhancing the details and clarify for certain parts of the abdomen armor. Mainly there were 2 things: The outer two abdomen armor lines that line up with the chest angle more diagonally rather than vertical so that we don't end up with lines that are straight up and down for each of them. Only the center line should be straight up and down vertically. The rectangular blocks on the abdomen armor we are taking a look at if we add rectangular armor plates instead of just calling them white rectangles.

Here is the latest discussion thread with the updates: I don't think that we specifically discussed the bolts, but it is in the L1 details as "blue-gray" on the current CRL.

For the entire kit, or what? @CrookKnight may do them.

Much better!!!

Very nice!!

Looks good! I think with Rust-Oleum it may be issues with which "plants" they are manufactured or batches is my guess. When I did my R1 tank driver I had the literal same brand and code Rust-Oleum white but one can had a yellow label on it and the other did not and the yellow label stuff was terrible. To this day I have no idea what the issue was because the environment was the same for both types of cans. I just did a Royal Guard helmet not too long ago with Rust-Oleum again and it worked just fine.

The CRL page has been completed with text and images. It is being sent for final review and publishing.

We'll be revisiting this again soon to align it with the base Novatrooper CRL on shared parts on both L1 and L2 details.

Excellent! I can't wait to see the pics and we'll be so close!

@TX-20113 I do believe we did that for continuity as well with other CRLs when it comes to higher level.

Welcome back @Fivezero! Those are some neat projects you had going! That Jumptrooper is looking bomb!

I like it!

3D prints are always going to have the sharper details. We have both types of DTs in my garrison that I've approved and the ASP one looks a lot more solid than the 850. The guy with the 850 though was able to put some work into his and it doesn't look bad, but the ASP guy didn't really have to do too much.

Man, that looks good!

Very nice!!

I'd say that the larger scale wise seems good. In that first panel it looks like if it was lowered down the shoulder would cover most of the bicep. I also agree with that raised detail not swooping up.

I believe that we should go with the detail on the largest panel for what detail was trying to be achieved as the smaller panels probably had some of the weirdness added to make it appear stand-out as opposed to looking like a normal TK shoulder bell. My honest opinion is that you nailed the look with what you have thus far. I'd assume the other side of that shoulder bell raised part looks like that of the 1st pic you have?

Just to post the update here for the rest of the membership to see, we are currently working on getting the proper pics uploaded to the drive so that we can start editing the CRL pics. We are also going to request the CRL to be built within the main CRL pages so that when we have the pics we are good to go. Just giving you a heads up here as well @ionicdesign

Welcome, Alexander! Thickness for the hand plates really depends on how comfortable they are for you. I'd say probably 1/2" would be good, some people do a lot less so it sits flat, but I like the depth to make it seem thick. The lower legs you should really try on with your undersuit and see how they stack up against your shins and position to your knee before trimming anything from the bottom up.

Both posts above have good points on this and with the infamous comic book drawings (always have different stuff on each panel)! Personally, I believe the only reason it appears a different color is to accentuate the brightness of the red thus "washing out" the lines, but they are black as that one pic. That is my take on it, at least.

It almost looks like you'd want to glue/heat and press that upper part into a 3D printed part or whatever plastic you are usually for the details. It is hard to see where the face covering starts and the plastic part starts with that piece. Either way, we'll have to see the detail for the CRL.

Here is the text that I will post in the 1st page if we are good. I modified the stuff in light orange: Lightsaber The lightsaber is accurate to what is shown in the illustrations within "Star Wars by Marvel Comics (2018) - Issue #59. Main hilt and hand grip are black in color. If the lightsaber has a blade, the blade is green in color. The lightsaber should only be required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Reflects 1:1 scale in size and appears to be of metal or chrome stock. ----------------------------------------------- E-11 Blaster (Optional) Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.