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Everything posted by IcyTrooper
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This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Helmet Neck Seal Under Suit Shoulder Straps Shoulder Armor Pauldron Biceps Biceps Pouch Forearms Compad Hand Plates Gloves Chest Armor Back Armor Abdomen Armor Kidney Armor Posterior Armor Lightsaber Belt Thermal Detonator Holster Thigh Armor Thigh Pouches Lower Leg Armor Boots E-11 Blaster (Optional) ------------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------ Description: SCAR Squadron - Task Force 99: Sergeant Kreel (#59/60) Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars by Marvel Comics Sergeant Kreel, designated Agent 5241, was an undercover stormtrooper and SCAR trooper of the Galactic Empire, serving in the 501st Legion under the direct command of Darth Vader. Kreel was given command of an elite group of SCAR troopers, designated Task Force 99. For 501st membership only the requirements listed in black need to be met. Black text indicates a feature that is required for approval. Blue text denotes requirements for Level 2 "Specialist," but is not required for basic approval. Visit the Spec Ops website for a full description of these standards. Special Notes: The armor is gloss white and gloss black in the appropriate spots, or as noted. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed. -------------------------------------------- Helmet Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke, or dark green. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. The frown must have 7 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable colors is gray. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are blue or black in color and may number between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator can either be white, silver or black. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals. Acceptable color is gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Lenses are bubbled and are dark green. On the ears there is the presence of 1 screw above the ear bars and no screw below the rank bar. The screw is painted white. Ear bars have 3 bumps only, not 4. A black rank stripe is painted on the rear most bump. There will be 13 black tube stripes per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can either by hand painted or decals. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Shoulder Straps These must be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They can be affixed with rivets, Velcro or adhesive. The rear tab of the strap is optional and may or may not be present. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no visible method of attachment for the straps to the chest. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Pauldron Light orange in color and made from vinyl or leather. It must be worn over the right shoulder. The shape of the pauldron looks like a shell with the following: On the side closest to the neck it runs from front to back almost straight with a slight bend towards the outside of the shoulder. On the front and rear there is pronounced curve from the inside of the shoulder to the outside as it rounds out to a more gradual curve on the outside of the pauldron and shoulder. There is a black Imperial cog that may be painted or a decal and affixed to the lower corner of the front of the pauldron, closest to the chest armor. Biceps Biceps are fully closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width. Bicep Pouch There is a small pouch on the left bicep held by a strap around the bicep. The pouch is black in color and can be made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch has the approximate dimensions 3" x 3" x 1.75" (76mm x 76mm x 44.5mm) and must match references. Pouch closure is trapezoidal in shape. Pouch closure has a snap that is black in color. The strap is black in color and made of elastic, leather, leather-like material. The strap is approximately 1.5" (40mm) wide. Forearms Forearms are fully sealed and closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms. Compad There is a holographic communicator fastened around the left forearm by two straps. Holographic communicator has a rectangular shape and is black in color. It has an aqua or light blue colored screen that must be lit in full. Holographic communicator must match in-comic references and proportions to the wearer. The straps are black in color and are made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material. The straps are approximately 1.5" (40mm) wide. Hand Plates Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Gloves Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor Overlaps the abdominal armor. There is a slight groove running vertical on each lateral side of the chest that angles towards slightly towards the center. These vertical grooves line up with the abdomen armor lines. Chest armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. The abdomen is black in color. There are three white lines, one vertical up the center with a diagonal line on each side. The distance between the vertical and diagonal lines is smallest where the abdomen meets the cod and extend diagonally to align with the recessed lines of the chest armor. There are two rectangular armor plates on each side of the abdomen approximately 3/32" to 1/8" (3-4mm) thick. The dimensions of each of the armor plates is approximately 4" x 1.75" x 0.30" (105mm x 45mm x 8mm). There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor. There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Kidney Armor The kidney armor is separate from the posterior armor (ANH style) and lines up with the abdomen armor. The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. Posterior Armor The posterior armor is separate from the kidney armor (ANH style). Belt The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and on each end of the belt. The soft belt proper is made of white canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3” to 3.5” (75-90mm) wide. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached. There are two square silver metal rings that hold the large pouch on the right side. There is a silver lightsaber holder/hook on the right side of the left drop box. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The corners of the black plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. Drop boxes must be attached using white elastic and must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Thermal Detonator (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of a gray cylinder with 2” to 2.68” (50-68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end and a white control panel pad. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.5” (190.5mm). No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed. The detonator is attached to the white canvas belt with 1” (25mm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Belt clips shall be made of metal and must be silver. Holster It is made of black leather or leather-like material. It is worn on the left side of the canvas belt and is attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the canvas belt from behind. Affixed with either two fasteners at the bottom (one on each side), or four fasteners (two on the top, two on the bottom equaling two per strap) and may painted in white. Fasteners may be rivets, snaps or Chicago screws. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The holster is affixed with four fasteners, two on the top, two on the bottom (two per strap), painted in white. Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt must be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Thigh Pouches There is a medium pouch on the left thigh held by two straps. The pouch is black in color and made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch has the approximate dimensions 5.5" x 4" x 1.75" (140mm x 101.6mm x 44.5mm) and must match references. The strap is approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Black in color made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material. On the right thigh is a large pouch, held by two straps. The straps are fastened to the belt with square metal rings. The pouch is black in color and made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch approximate dimensions 7" x 5.5" x 1.75" (178mm x 140mm x 44.5mm) and must match references. The strap is approximately 1.5" (40mm) wide. Black in color made of leather, or leather-like material. Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of black leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Lightsaber The lightsaber is accurate to what is shown in the illustrations within "Star Wars by Marvel Comics (2018) - Issue #59. Main hilt and hand grip are black in color. If the lightsaber has a blade, the blade is green in color. The lightsaber should only be required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Reflects 1:1 scale in size and appears to be of metal or chrome stock. E-11 Blaster (Optional) Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.
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Sergeant Kreel WIP. Comic Star Wars (2015) Issue #59&60
IcyTrooper replied to darthRivera's topic in Sergeant Kreel
I'll go ahead and setup a CRL discussion thread like we do for all the costumes that follows on each item piece by piece so that we can separate it from this WIP thread -
tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
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Sergeant Kreel WIP. Comic Star Wars (2015) Issue #59&60
IcyTrooper replied to darthRivera's topic in Sergeant Kreel
The Sith Lord CRLs have the lightsaber in the required item listing but have this bullet: The lightsaber is only included as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws. So that is something that we'll have to watch. That would be handled at a GML level as they'll know the local laws and such better than us at the detachment level. However, we can make it a requirement at at Specialist (L2) level for accuracy if that is something we really want to control. We can also do a waiver process similar to what FISD does for higher level if we can prove that a "weapon" is not a feasible option...however, that is on an extremely limited basis. Your saber looks great though! -
From what I can see, you are definitely sizing it properly by having the undersuit on ahead of time. Don't hesitate on creating a WIP thread in the Shadow Stormtrooper section and we can more easily set you up with help!
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Oh no! What part are you having trouble with? You most likely will need a setting tool and some scrap ABS to mount the snaps to, along with the nylon or strapping you choose.
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Sergeant Kreel WIP. Comic Star Wars (2015) Issue #59&60
IcyTrooper replied to darthRivera's topic in Sergeant Kreel
That placement looks good to me! -
Awesome! Getting close!
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tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Sick! I think @Halycon has one too. -
Sergeant Kreel WIP. Comic Star Wars (2015) Issue #59&60
IcyTrooper replied to darthRivera's topic in Sergeant Kreel
Looks great! Sgt. Kreel sure does love pouches. -
tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
This is a good way to get some peace and quiet haha. -
tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
You are on a roll! -
tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Can't go wrong with an Imperial Issue belt! I love mine on my TX. -
tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Yep! Those stripes are solid! -
I corrected the images links for ya, nice suit up!
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tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Very awesome to see! -
tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Just make sure there are no traces of acetone in anything as that'll melt the ABS, especially as thin as the Anovos armor is. I'd test whatever mineral spirits you are going to use on a scrap and see how it reacts over about an hour period. Mineral spirits should be safe. I personally use Turtle Wax black vehicle stuff for cleaning/shine and haven't had issues. -
What David said is correct. We make reference to ANH TK in the CRL itself, and the R1 TK has the details that David mentioned plus more (e.g., trauma plate on back, back/chest attach at sides, etc.)
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tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Yep, I found out that I had to take more of that bicep down with the Anovos kit (all 3 of em). -
Sergeant Kreel WIP. Comic Star Wars (2015) Issue #59&60
IcyTrooper replied to darthRivera's topic in Sergeant Kreel
I think the finish suits it well. -
It wouldn't be a 501st project if at least 1 thing didn't go wrong haha
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Very nice update! Looks like you cut the model at the right spot to save that reprint, very nice.
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Looking good! FYI I got your images fixed. For Imgur you'll have to right click the image on the Imgur page and select "Copy image address" and then paste into the thread box. It should have a .jpeg at the end of it to work. Then you can double click that image within the thread and add the URL for the actual Imgur link in the pop-up box to allow for someone to click it for full size.