Chaos

@kishdr Brother if you were able to get those "behind the scenes model stuff" I'd be interested in seeing anything you might like to share. Going to need all that is out there to start the possible CRL process. And figure out a way to add in wearable items to account for the CGI effects they used on the actors.

Guess what this guy's next major project is going to be!!!!!?

@wook1138 has an 850 kit build thread that is very good. https://forum.specops501st.com/topic/6097-wook’s-dt-build-850-armorworks-and-armoryshop/#comment-81731

@0igrez Pants and or shorts and shirt on first, neck seal and bib, then poncho. The poncho covers the front of the bib. Hope that helps.

@GeorgiosHD There are WIPs and build threads for every known kit. Who made your kit? Is it precut/assembled or is it raw?

@IcyTrooper nailed it! Also be aware that what ever color you decide on, flat black or grey, is used on all the details for uniformity.

@Lee_C_77 Any update?

I wouldn't use the hammered silver, I used Testors model paint (I think it was aluminum) and just used a thinned out black to "black wash" the weathered silver look. Also, I hand painted the flat black in my grooves and other flat black details. I hate having to mask off all that and run the chance of over spray or painters tape messing up my gloss black.

Congratulations! Now get out there and start killing some Rebels!

@Rob Gloger Welcome to the "Darker Side" of the Darkside and the Spec Ops Detachment. Great build list. I personally love the helmet liner, it gives me a lot of room in my helmet for the much needed fans and audio system. I use Trooper Tronix fans, they kept me cool in Hawaii for years. Jonathan is super responsive and does great work. I also went with Ukswrath's audio system. Tony has been perfecting his work over the years and has awesome service. I went with the bluetooth reciever as I dislike having to hide wires between a helmet and body armor. I have one of Jim's first kits, and made a few modifications to his when I overhauled mine last year to go for Level 2. I didn't do a build thread but I have posted a lot of my mods in various other posts. Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions. Best of luck with your build and I look forward to seeing your progress.

@GeorgiosHD George, I will try and help you out with this. The 501st states in it's Charter Article II states "The 501st Legion is an international costuming organization dedicated to celebrating STAR WARS™ through the creation and use of quality costumes that portray the villainous, morally ambiguous, or non-partisan characters from the STAR WARS™ universe. The 501st strives to maintain a standard of appearance in its costumes that reflects the screen or other source appearance of each character/costume. It accomplishes this by the CRLs. If this was not done, the we would have members wearing all sorts of cheap copy cat costumes, some of which look like crap. This contradictory with the Legion's Mission Statement above. With that being said, you will find that almost all of the costumes within the Legion at some point had a scarcity issue with finding or obtaining parts. It just so happens with the DT that the boots used in R1 and The Mandalorian are no longer in production. Every once in a while you will find them for sale on a website, but that is not a guaranteed event and are few and far between. In that case as with many 501st Costumes there have been makers who have stepped up to fill the void in filling the need to supply scarce pieces and parts. Imperial Boots and Crow Props have done this for the boots. It just so happens that Crop Props saw that Imperial Boots was not making the larger sizes so Gio stepped up and included the larger sized boots in his production. Unfortunately in a world of supply and demand, the cost of such items is usually based on the maker's expenses to produce the item and then be able to make a profit. It is what it is and I am sure that if there were more providers of the DT Boot that the cost would come down based upon competition between the makers. I was the primary staff member who worked on the DT CRL's recent update, we made a few compensations for some items and reduced the strictness of the CRL requirement and we also created stricter requirements on some of the items as well to balance out Basic Approval Level 1 and the more screen accurate Level 2 requirements. We knew that the Jared boots were no longer in production and then next closest boot, the Talib, was also not in production. The two makers who did provide a comparable boot designed their boots to meet the CRL and screen used boot appearance. Since there were two sources, and still pairs of the Jared and Talib boots being bought and sold on various websites we decided to keep the CRL requirement. The boots for the DT are very distinctive and visible in many screens, thus the standard of the CRL must be upheld. To answer your question about the Cairo boot and if it meets the level 1 basic approval CRL requirement. The boots as they are from Doc Martens is No. The toes of the boot are rounded and the lace seam stitching gives the appearance of a "D" and basically considered a "cap toe" so that is OK The leather stitching and seams of the heel panels are like the CRL boot or the alternate listed "Talib" so that is OK The Boot is a matte black leather (the CRL boot is considered a Matte black as it does not have a high gloss polished look or "patented leather" look) so that is OK The sole has no heal and is flat like the CRL so that is OK The side edges of the sole are not exact to the CRL boot, but the CRL does not say it has to be, however, the seam stitching is yellow. If you dye/color the yellow stitching then the sole would be acceptable per the CRL's intent as the boot is "black." The only other issue I see that must be changed on the Cairo boot is the rectangle "logo" on the heel. Though the CRL only addresses "logos" on the undersuit, it is a "given" that trademarks and logos which are not specific to a costume must be removed or hidden. My recommendation is to get with your GML, show him/her the Cairo and ask that if the yellow seams were dyed black, and the heel logo removed, would he/she approve you for basic approval. You won't be able to use them for Level 2. I hope this helps, but in reality, sometimes there are costumes that will not be achievable due to a person's size, budget, or pieces and parts availability.

Looking awesome Michael. If you get a chance try to either put some wire on the ends of your boot covers or use small velcro tabs to try and pull the edges down along the boot toes. It helps eliminate the scuba fins look of the covers. Good luck on the approval.

@Tiderion ideally the bottom edge of the greeblies should be horizontal and parallel to the ground. There are no specific measurements, as long as it looks like the CRL you'll be good to go. Just be sure you dont put them on the wrong side or upside down.

@Oldracer27 Greg, Welcome to the Forum. I like the Sith Jet Trooper, it is a shame that in the Trek World any person wearing red is eventually killed in every episode, lets hope you survive longer than the other Red Shirts.

That's the same, the lettering is only in the one spot, unless you have huge wrists, you won't use the entire band you cut out so the letters never show.

Doesn't Jim's kit already have the band clips molded into the forearm? I know mine had the clips. If that's the case, just get a 4 inch black rubber pipe coupler and cut the 1/2 straps. That is how I did mine.

@GeorgiosHD I wish Doc would produce the Jared's and Talibs again. IB does make the Killer boot series, you might want to contact Gio at Crow Props, he has started making a DT boot as well, he can even do the larger sizes. What size boot are you needing? Doc run about 1/2 size smaller than your normal shoe size. I have a pair of Talibs in US Men's 10 or EU 43.

This might help:

@Tiderion I can see if I can find something in the build threads. Might take a day or two.

If you want to paint the striping / details on your E-11D here is a basic example you can use. E-11D Decal Locations.pdf

@HRivera7322 Hector, here is the best answer I can give you about the painting of the E-11D. Weapons are not required for 501st approval so there is no "detailed" list of what does and doesn't have to be done to the blasters. Blasters fall into the "Optional Accessories" so if you are going to include a blaster with your application for approval that it must appear as described in the text and photos. The photos are sufficient to determine painting and decals. There is nothing in the CRL that says "aluminum finish." What the CRL photo does show is that the end of the barrel is tempered due to the heating of the metal due to blaster fire. So any type of paint can be used to achieve that effect. However if you simply paint the end of the E-11D in a chrome without applying any of the tempered effect then it would not meet the CRL intent and could be disapproved for "Canon Trooping" use, such as 501st Approval. My barrel's silver finish base was a Rustoleum Chrome and the other colors added on top of it. As far as electronics for your blasters; I use TRamp (found on Facebook) for my blasters. You could find a Nerf Star Wars Rogue One Imperial Death Trooper Blaster and gut it to use the electronics out of it. The Plastic Arms Dealer used to have an electronics kit that he would put in his "Finished" E-11D products. If you want to do your own wiring there are a couple of schematics that other Troopers have posted in the forums. @Woodo007 has an awesome build thread with photos of his blasters, but no wiring diagram. BlasTech also makes electronics and here is one of their schematics that you can get an idea of how to wire up a blaster.

@Tiderion Awesome news James. Nice choice on the audio systems. Make sure that when you use any TK type audio system that it does not do the clicks and pops like a TK. DT's did not have that in the films. Best of luck and thank you for keeping us up to date.

Ditto to what Dan suggested. I have a Jimmi kit as well and by coating the inside of the pieces it will also save on the wear and tear of your undersuit and gaskets.

@Fatalslink Mike, as I go thru this since I need to get a visual idea of what we are working with. So I am going to ask a few questions at first, so please just be patient with me. These are Toms files so I am familiar with the base construction, I do know that others have had to make some adjustments due to body types and sizes. How is your poncho attached to your undershirt? Sewn or Velcroed? How are you strapping your upper back armor to the lower back armor and then to your posterior plate? How are you strapping your chest armor to your abdomen armor and then your cod piece? How is your belt constructed? How did you strap the support for your thighs? (Photos would help for the above strapping questions if you have the time) Are your shins completely closed or are they clam shelled? Do you have a 3D printer or have access to one? If so you may or may not need to make two of these: https://www.dropbox.com/s/n56rr6rzxsm2vl2/collar tab support.stl?dl=0 collar tab support.stl

I just noticed your GML must have a DT, that's why he is so detail oriented. Believe it or not that's a good thing. Especially when you stand next to a kit that didn't go thru the same type of scrutiny you will be able to tell the difference.