Chaos

I haven't had a chance to really look thru the whole thread, but something to think about when it come to the gloves. The stitching pattern and construction of the gloves actually resembles Nomex Flyer's Gloves. Are we sure they weren't intended to be Sage Green Nomex gloves? I'll give this a better look when I get back to the US next week. https://www.ebay.com/itm/263896280045?mkevt=1&siteid=1&mkcid=2&mkrid=711-153320-877651-5&source_name=google&mktype=pla_ssc&campaignid=10460522637&groupid=106739056274&targeted=pla-293946777986&MT_ID=&adpos=&device=m&googleloc=9076963&itemid=263896280045&merchantid=116792603&geo_id=210&gclid=CjwKCAiA78aNBhAlEiwA7B76p7G-1OI5jBFs68tBw7F7RFaj58110Vo1SdxI3XgBuQ59r51rYPY9KBoCRhAQAvD_BwE

Nick, Welcome to the Detachment. You've got a great list. There really aren't any vendors for a complete strapping system due to the fact that each armor vendor produces their pieces which vary in size and build from the others. UKSWRATH did sell a strapping system for the Sith Trooper which some of us modified to work with our DTs. Your best course of action is to find ASP work in progress builds and see how each person strapped their kits and then pick and choose what works best for you. If ASP and DSC are not making undersuits right now, contact Jim Tripon or Geeky Pinks Gaskets. As far as your blasters and holsters, the vendor's list has a good selection, any one of the vendor's are a good source. Helmet audio system I use UKSWRATH'S helmet system and am very pleased with it, so much so I've used it in two of my helmet set ups. Cooling fans I went with Trooper Tronix, well built and at a great price. All of the vendor's I mention have their contact information listed in the vendor's list. Best of luck with your build.

Your link works. Best of luck with your build.

Yep, that post pretty much sums it up. If you have any specific questions, feel free to reach out.

Awesome build and Congratulations!

Congratulations Matthew! You build looks awesome! One more TX in the CG, we definitely need a Search and Destroy Team in the CG now.

Apologies for taking longer than expected to upload a photo but work took up more time than I had anticipated. Explanations are on the photo. Hope this helps as well.

The color scheme guide is correct, photos of the armor depending on lighting, will give the look of a different sheen. Use the guide.

I'll send another reply later this evening when I get back from work. Yep, the early version of the 850 kits caused a few building issues for some folks. I'll try and remember who had one of those kits and see if they posted anything about modifying it.

@therealtotty no worries, I was joking around, those aluminum arm greeblies are pricey but worth it in the long run.

Oh let's go have a look see in the Death Trooper parts vendor thread and see what we can find ...... Oh look! "Metal Parts" http://www.warmachinepaintball.com/death-trooper/ ???? I had to do that, all the time and effort I put into that list and hardly anyone uses it.

Micheal. you answered his question as well, good feedback for him ? thank you for providing your experienced with your ASP kit, it helped confirm what others are saying.

@Christian Vasileff Christian, first off, Welcome to Spec Ops. We get this type of question all the time. Both 850 and ASP are vetted Death Trooper suppliers and their kits are capable of being "approved" each kit has it's Pros and Cons. There are build threads in this sub-forum of each type that you can read thru and make your own decision based upon your own personal desires. Below is a comment I posted on another troopers thread asking the same question. Though he was asking about 850 and The Plastic Arms Dealer (PAD) and not Armory Shop Props (ASP), the comparison is pretty much the same with the PAD kit being a fiberglass resin and ASP being a 3D print reinforced with fiberglass resin. I have read that 850 has added some resin and cast add-ons to their ABS kit which offer more detailing but some parts of their ABS kit still contain what are known as "soft pull" details. XXXXXXXXX Welcome to Spec Ops, your path to joining the 501st Legion is going to be an exciting one and at times overwhelming. There will be times when you feel like you are up against a wall and in need of some advice. When those occasions arise make sure you turn to our Community as there is a plethora of knowledgeable individuals here who have been where you might be. There are no "dumb questions" ever in our group and the only dumb question is the question not asked. Now, to your request for advice. There are several things a Trooper should consider when taking that leap to purchase their first set of armor etc. What is your budget? How good are your crafting skills? How accurate do you want your build to be? Do you have other Legion builders who are near you (Local Garrison/Outpost) that can assist? These are the biggies. Next you will want to do some research on the armor and supplier that you are considering. 850 Armorworks and The PlasticArmsDealer kits are both quite capable of being approved. Keep in mind that no kit is ever "approvable" straight out of the box. Some kits require more work that others, some kits are more "screen accurate" than others, but all kits will require trimming, assembling, and fitting to be "approvable." The best research you can do is search through the Death Trooper build threads that members of our Community have posted. Look for ones that have built the kits you are considering and see what their "pros" and "cons" have been during their builds. Some things to keep in mind about the materials that are used in the construction of a kit. ABS kits are light weight plastic kits that have been heated and then vacuum pressed against a mold. The end results can be very good on larger less detailed pieces, but for pieces that have smaller intricate details, the details are less "sharp" and considered "soft pulls." ABS kits tend to be less expensive than other kits due to the cost of the materials. Fiberglass or resin constructed kits are a little heavier than ABS but the smaller details are usually very sharp and look more like the kits used in Rogue One and the Mandalorian. These types of kits that are available now also require less "modifications" to achieve the higher level of "screen accuracy." Fiberglass and resins kits are a little more pricey but some builders have found that the money they saved buying a less expensive kit, they ended up spending on modifications to achieve that higher detailed appearance. If you want to get an idea of how much work a kit will need in terms of modifications etc, you'll need to read the Costume Reference Library or CRL for the Death Trooper and then look at each piece of a kit you are thinking about and see if the CRL details match the kit's details. For example ( I am not recommending any one supplier, only providing an example of how different kits can be from the CRL basic Level 1 and Specialist Level 2 requirements) the CRL for the helmet states that the center piece of the nose bridge has the appearance of a weathered matte black and brushed aluminum/silver surface as depicted in the reference and gallery photos. It also consists of the following: 4 to 6 small horizontal rectangular vent/ribs extending from the top of the nose bridge to approximately ¼ way down. 6 to 8 larger horizontal rectangular vent/ribs run from ⅔ towards the bottom. 7 to 9 vertical vent/ribs connect from the nose bridge to the snout. Two vent tubes in black rubber or matte black paint are evident on either side of the face plates. That is for basic Level 1 approval, then for Level 2 which is considered more screen accurate, the same piece must have "Nose bridge vents/ribs have in these number in order from top to bottom; 6, 8, and 9." So when you look at the two suppliers helmets you are considering: 850 Armorworks helmets vent ribs are top to bottom; 6, 6 (maybe 7), and 9, nit picky I know, but it is the difference of having a Level 1 or Level 2 armor kit. I have seen where 850 has been upgrading their kits with resin printed/cast parts that give the smaller details the crispness that this unique armor deserves so that should be researched. The PlasticArmsDealer's helmet is screen accurate but the body armor kit still has some differences that need to be addressed to reach a Level 2 build. There are a few other suppliers you can research by going to the Death Trooper Parts Vendor post at the top of the Death Trooper sub forum. One last thing, I know there are some Death Trooper build groups on Facebook and they are a great resource of information but as with any social media platform, there are also some posts that contain misinformation. When in doubt, use the Spec Ops Forum, any information you get here I guarantee will be the most accurate, thus saving you time and money. I know this has probably made you feel like you are taking a drink from a fire hose, but that's how it is sometimes, you just have to try and "gulp" down as much as you can and then just keep coming back until you have it all. One last thing, the best way to get your questions answered and have them all in one place is to start yourself a build thread way before you even purchase anything and then keep the thread updated with your progress and questions until completed. I can't emphasize that enough, it is the best way to do this, start to finish. Best of luck with your build and reach out if you need any advice. Here are photos of the same areas of detail, side by side of 850, ASP, PAD, and the R1 screen used kit, you can see where there are indented grooves and angled lines that there are obvious differences in the edges sharpness. @wook1138 used an 850 kit, he may be able to tell you what his pros and cons were. Hope this helps.

@Allan1313 the silver does accentuate the eyes, I am impressed with your build.

@Trock Congratulations Anthony! Add one more TX to the Carolina Garrison. Now we need to get our CG Search and Destroy Teams organized.

I have just recently started following your build, I like the anomalous characters of the Empire so Triple 000 fits that description to a "T". After doing some comic book research of photos etc., it looks like in almost all the drawings, that the eye pieces themselves are glowing red with unlit or darker stripes/bars running vertically. I wonder if the eye pieces could be printed in a "clear" filament with the vertical ridges/stripes and then back lit. The thinner flat areas would be brighter with the thicker vertical raised bars a lesser lit contrast? Maybe even make the flat areas out of red Electroluminescent Tape EL Panels and cover with the vertical stripes/bar? I know 000 follows the C3PO model and C3P0's eyes have the triple light detail but in most of the comics, 000's eyes are solid red or single center pin point lit. Possibly a CRL change? By the way your build is going to be epic!

@LondonValient you can email me or send a message through the forums anytime, either way is easy for me, so its what ever is best for you.

@LondonValient London, Welcome to Spec Ops, your path to joining the 501st Legion is going to be an exciting one and at times overwhelming. There will be times when you feel like you are up against a wall and in need of some advice. When those occasions arise make sure you turn to our Community as there is a plethora of knowledgeable individuals here who have been where you might be. There are no "dumb questions" ever in our group and the only dumb question is the question not asked. Now, to your request for advice. There are several things a Trooper should consider when taking that leap to purchase their first set of armor etc. What is your budget? How good are your crafting skills? How accurate do you want your build to be? Do you have other Legion builders who are near you (Local Garrison/Outpost) that can assist? These are the biggies. Next you will want to do some research on the armor and supplier that you are considering. 850 Armorworks and The PlasticArmsDealer kits are both quite capable of being approved. Keep in mind that no kit is ever "approvable" straight out of the box. Some kits require more work that others, some kits are more "screen accurate" than others, but all kits will require trimming, assembling, and fitting to be "approvable." The best research you can do is search through the Death Trooper build threads that members of our Community have posted. Look for ones that have built the kits you are considering and see what their "pros" and "cons" have been during their builds. Some things to keep in mind about the materials that are used in the construction of a kit. ABS kits are light weight plastic kits that have been heated and then vacuum pressed against a mold. The end results can be very good on larger less detailed pieces, but for pieces that have smaller intricate details, the details are less "sharp" and considered "soft pulls." ABS kits tend to be less expensive than other kits due to the cost of the materials. Fiberglass or resin constructed kits are a little heavier than ABS but the smaller details are usually very sharp and look more like the kits used in Rogue One and the Mandalorian. These types of kits that are available now also require less "modifications" to achieve the higher level of "screen accuracy." Fiberglass and resins kits are a little more pricey but some builders have found that the money they saved buying a less expensive kit, they ended up spending on modifications to achieve that higher detailed appearance. If you want to get an idea of how much work a kit will need in terms of modifications etc, you'll need to read the Costume Reference Library or CRL for the Death Trooper and then look at each piece of a kit you are thinking about and see if the CRL details match the kit's details. For example ( I am not recommending any one supplier, only providing an example of how different kits can be from the CRL basic Level 1 and Specialist Level 2 requirements) the CRL for the helmet states that the center piece of the nose bridge has the appearance of a weathered matte black and brushed aluminum/silver surface as depicted in the reference and gallery photos. It also consists of the following: 4 to 6 small horizontal rectangular vent/ribs extending from the top of the nose bridge to approximately ¼ way down. 6 to 8 larger horizontal rectangular vent/ribs run from ⅔ towards the bottom. 7 to 9 vertical vent/ribs connect from the nose bridge to the snout. Two vent tubes in black rubber or matte black paint are evident on either side of the face plates. That is for basic Level 1 approval, then for Level 2 which is considered more screen accurate, the same piece must have "Nose bridge vents/ribs have in these number in order from top to bottom; 6, 8, and 9." So when you look at the two suppliers helmets you are considering: 850 Armorworks helmets vent ribs are top to bottom; 6, 6 (maybe 7), and 9, nit picky I know, but it is the difference of having a Level 1 or Level 2 armor kit. I have seen where 850 has been upgrading their kits with resin printed/cast parts that give the smaller details the crispness that this unique armor deserves so that should be researched. The PlasticArmsDealer's helmet is screen accurate but the body armor kit still has some differences that need to be addressed to reach a Level 2 build. There are a few other suppliers you can research by going to the Death Trooper Parts Vendor post at the top of the Death Trooper sub forum. One last thing, I know there are some Death Trooper build groups on Facebook and they are a great resource of information but as with any social media platform, there are also some posts that contain misinformation. When in doubt, use the Spec Ops Forum, any information you get here I guarantee will be the most accurate, thus saving you time and money. I know this has probably made you feel like you are taking a drink from a fire hose, but that's how it is sometimes, you just have to try and "gulp" down as much as you can and then just keep coming back until you have it all. One last thing, the best way to get your questions answered and have them all in one place is to start yourself a build thread way before you even purchase anything and then keep the thread updated with your progress and questions until completed. I can't emphasize that enough, it is the best way to do this, start to finish. Best of luck with your build and reach out if you need any advice.

You're correct you are good for CRL, I had to move mine back a little after my first couple of troops, the sharp corners of my boxes beat the hell out of my forearms and just wanted to pass on my experiences, just like the pinch area between the cod piece and thighs. Nothing worse than getting a good pinch in public and reaching down to sooth the boys. ???

@Lt. Dan Looks awesome Dan!!!! Great job on your build! Get used to sweating, this costume is hot! When I was in Hawai'i I would have my wife or daughter pour a bottle of water inside the back of my neck seal to cool me down during outside troopings. A few things I noticed which are not "glaring" but if tidied up, would make your build look more movie accurate. Your two hard square boxes on your belt look like they are on your hips and basically on the center side of your belt. They should each be moved backward just a little but more. From the CRL "There are two square boxes ...... attached on either side of the belt in a location between the wearer's hip and kidney." Also by moving them backward you are less likely to have them scrap against your forearms. If possible, the boot covers where they cover the toe are angled up just a little bit. Its not a CRL requirement but should you submit for Level 2 in the future the Level 2 CRL requirement is : The rectangular panels shall not be wider than the width of the top of the shoe and will lay as flat as possible against the shoe with the front edge not extending past the upper and sole seam. You could use small Velcro pieces on the corners to pull them flat against the sides of your boot or some folks put a piece of wire in the end to make the cover curve. Since your belt top is attached along your posterior piece top edge, and your lower back piece is under your posterior piece, I would recommend (if you haven't done it already) to put a piece of felt or soft material on the inside top edge of your PA so that it doesn't rub and scratch your lower back piece. since your tow pieces will float up and down the scratches/rub marks will be very noticeable. Also make sure that the top of the belt covers and hides the upper top edge of the PA, in your right side arms up photo you can see it has slid down. Velcro strips will hold the two aligned and together. If you get pinching in the groin area, you have enough space at your knees that you can lower the thighs an inch or two and it will still look correct. Your SE-14R holster may need to be reconfigured. The upper snap strap is good, (I can't tell if the lower loop strap can be rotated) but the lower snap strap is turned so that if the loop is around the scope it will twist the vertical support strap. (See photos for reference) If that makes sense That's all I noticed! You did an amazing job!

@Lt. Dan Also if you have an issue with your thighs pulling down the harness in the front, position the hip belt portion ok Tony's harness above your hip bones and tighten it up some. I had to do the same with his harness and my armor.

@Lt. Dan You have a few CRL requirements for positioning of the belt that are " must haves" 1. Lower back: Fitted centered and under the back plate and extends to below the top of the belt. 2. Abdomen: Shall be centered under the chest plate and the lower edge covered by the belt. (implying that the top edge of the belt covers the lower Abdomen edge) 3. Cod piece: Extends under the belt at the top. (Implying the the top of the cod piece is covered by the bottom belt edge) 4. Posterior Armor: Has a raised rectangular section in the center which extends up under the belt. (Implying that the top edge of the PA is under and covered by the bottom edge of the belt) So as long as your belt positioning meets those requirements it won't matter how far down your PA it goes as long as some portion of the raised rectangular section on the PA is visible. Hope that made sense.

Best thing to do since there are numerous changes is to take each piece and read thru the CRL and compare yours with the CRL and photos. I could send you my notes but you would probably be more confused than anything else as they are simply "notes" and not very coherent to anyone else but me.

Looking forward to seeing how your build is going!