Chaos

This might help as well.

@nanotek ideas? I think what might have happened is when the forum was redone, you could no longer used the cc? code to link pictures as image files but would have to either upload the actual file or replace the upload with the actual file link or the photo hosting website you use no longer supports upload links to outside sites like our forums.

@Trock Anthony, I just saw this after I responded to your Carolina Garrison post. LOL Pretty much what David @RAIDER mentioned above is what I posted in the CG post. Looking Great Trooper!

That's great news that Gio can make the larger sizes. I never understood why IB never went that route but Gio came thru for the Death Trooper community!

I have a 3d file for the neck/ collar piece, you could cut off yours and attach this one to your back piece. The front just lays over the front, on the screen used suits it has front tabs that slips into the chest to hold them in.

@jc1327 do you have access to a 3D printer?

?

Added "Crowprops" as a vendor for larger sized Jered replica boots and gloves.

@RobC_TX1138 Gio at Crowprops now makes larger sized boots for the DT. He listened to us when we told him he could get IBs business for larger sizes https://www.facebook.com/groups/108653819216581/permalink/4178905398858049/ He also makes the gloves, I just added him to the Vendor's list for boots and gloves.

@jc1327 Justin, Sorry it took me a few days, I am in the KSA working on a job, but I finally had a chance to take a look at your 850 back piece and compare it with a screen used back and the new CRL. I have attached a side by side comparison with things that you can fix with a dremel, auto bondo, or some ABS and ABS paste. (Sizes are approximate, I don't have my armor with me to measure exactly, maybe someone who has either Jimmi's, Denis's, Sean's or Andrew's kits can measure exactly for you.) *upper left corner: there is a small circle approximately 2-3mm in radius (can be backed with auto bondo or ABS paste and then drilled about 1.5-2mm deep *upper left center: there are two small squares the same size as the small circle and can be made the same way as the circle. *top edges of each large square details have two raised rectangles, approximately 1.5x3-4mm, these can be made with ABS paste or bondo and then shaped to size. Make sure when you position them that they are as close to the screen's back location as possible. *your COG has the correct number of spokes and has a good shape and detail, no worries with that. *the two small vertical greeblies in the right hand large square need to be worked on, the lower portions have some ridges that are supposed to be flat, then on the upper portion of the rectangles, the raised horizontal ridges' detail needs to be sharpened. You can fix this by back filling with bondo or ABS paste and then taking a thin dremel cutting wheel and deepening the grooves between the raised ridges, not too much but just enough to make them more obvious. *both large square's lower corners need a small angled 45 degree piece. This can be done with bondo or ABS paste and then shaped to match. *center / center of the back piece, there needs to be a raised rectangle approx. 2mmx15-20mm center of the ridge and aligned along the lower side of the horizontal ridge. This can be made the same way as the above smaller raised rectangles. *lower / center, the raise "bump" on your piece needs to have a smaller radius, should be approx. 2.5-3mm. You can back fill the dot with bondo or ABS paste and then add a smaller raised dot, this can be made with anything, a small piece of plastic dowel cut to about 2.5-3mm in height can be glued in place. ( Your GML might approve this as is.) *right / lower along the right outer edge is a three sided rectangle which is cur into the back as if you were engraving a block letter "C". This can be done back back filling and then dremel-ing the proper shaped grove into the back piece. Make sure the lines are straight and the groove depth uniform. The "NEW and improved" 850 back has one on each side which is NOT correct, so even if you bought that one, the left hand detail would have to be filled in and sanded smooth. I'm not too sure that the side "vents" details along the lower outside edges of the 850 piece are sharp enough but they can be sharpened just like the vertical rectangle raised ridges mentioned above. (Check with GML) I HIGHLY recommend getting with one of your Garrison GML's and show them this fix and your current pieces to see if they would approve your armor with these modifications made. If they give you a thumbs up, then you will need to decide if the above fixes are worth doing yourself or spending the $190. I can't remember if your version has the neck collar as 1/2 part of the front and 1/2 of the back or not. That would need to be a whole different undertaking. You might be better off getting someone with the collar files to print you one off and then you cut the 850 off and bond the printed collar to the back piece which is the correct way it is made. Let me know if you have any questions.

@wook1138 Greg ... any advice?

@wook1138 Greg, your kit was one of the original version kits that 850 put out. There is a guy named Justin who has I think the same kit, and is just now starting. He says that his back and chest as it is now is not approvable IAW the new CRL, but I am fairly sure the new CRL was written so that the legacy makers' kits would still be good to go. Can you hop over if you have a chance and see if you can give him some advice, I'd hate for him to buy 850's new resin back piece if it really isn't necessary. Thanks in advance. https://forum.specops501st.com/topic/5770-jc1327s-dt-wip/ His comment/question is dated Sunday 18 July 2021

Justin @jc1327 post a photo of what you currently have for the back plate and chest.

Good choices on your suppliers. If you like to build, I'd get Denis's unfinished kit, sometimes his prefinished kits, even though you send him your measurements, sometimes they need to be adjusted and then you have to repaint.

Dominic, I'd recommend getting all your undersuit/gasket/boots pieces first. This way whether you are 3D printing, using a fiberglass/resin, or ABS kit you can make sure the fit is right. The undersuit/gaskets add bulk to your body and the boots add girth to your ankles and its easier to trim/build the pieces over it rather than having them too tight and having to readjust the sizing later on. If you are using a kit that requires trimming and attaching pieces together start with the easy parts first (forearms, biceps, thighs, shins) so that you can get comfortable with the fitting/trimming process before you move on to the more intricate pieces. If you are 3D printing, I recommend using a program called Armorsmith Designer from The Armored Garage. You can fit the pieces to you exact body measurements. It definitely saves time and hassle with trimming. Plus you can use it for any Cosplay 3D files. Best of luck with your build, this Detachment has a wealth of knowledge, feel free to use it.

@jc1327 Justin, what exactly are your issues with 850s back and chest. I was Primary on the CRL updates and I intentionally made sure that the current kit maker's kits could pass the basic level approval with a few minor tweaks. I'm not a fan of ABS for the DT. IOF the details to look authentic the lines need to be crisp. Post up some photos of what you have, maybe we can offer up better solutions than you spending more money. I know there are a few 850 build threads on here as well.

@TucsonDerrick Derrick, strapping will depend on what works best for you and which DT kit you build. I would recommend looking thru all the DT build threads and see what works best for your needs. My upper armor is strapped in the same manner as Mr Paul's Shoretrooper. My abdomen and back plate is a corset design attached to my ab gasket held in place the same way as the ST. Belt is velcroed to a strip under my abdomen and the back plate, then my butt plate and cod piece are velcroed to the belt. I use Ukswrath's harness slightly modified to hang my thighs. The mobility is great and I can sit down. Best of luck with your build and don't forget to start your own build thread, makes it easier to ask questions and get advice all in one place. Welcome to Spec Ops!

@Anarchy4 John, to be honest, the money that you saved by purchasing the Hex3D DT files, you're going to lose in having to change/fix your prints, for example, the nose bridge vent/ridges are inaccurate and the oval tusk attachment pieces on the front are round, not square, though a GML might pass it for Basic approval, it will not pass Level 2 approval should you wish to go that route. Before you print anything else, download the CRL photos of each piece and then do a side by side comparison and you will be able to see all the inaccurate sections that will need to be fixed/modified.

Start your build thread, post where you got the files from, I'm sure someone will be able to assist, without knows whose/what files they are I can't give a specific person.

@Anarchy4 The lens, if cut from welding shields, can be heat molded to fit the curve of the inside of the helmet and trimmed to fit the opening. If you are looking to go for Level 2, the lens would need to not only be curved to follow the inside, but also must have a slight "bulge" or outward curve. The link that @nanotek posted is Level 2 approvable. If your files are not from one of the vendors that we listed in the Death Trooper Vendor list then I would have someone take a look at the files to see exactly how much work would be required to make them approvable. Its best to start knowing what needs to be fixed early in your build instead of finding out later after you have put a lot of work into a piece. Best of luck, make sure you start your own build thread and post up progress so we can assist you along the way.

@Lt. Dan Nice work!

I'll reach out and see where they are at, it's more of a hobby for them, so they work on it when they can. They wanted it to be spot on, so not much use posting up progress right now. Tom's files are still the best and also use Paul Prentice's Shoretrooper build for assembly techniques as both costumes were designed by the same folks so there are a lot of similarities. If I find out anything I will post it up in the forums.

Found your build thread. ?

@Lt. Dan one more thing, the straps and buckles have a slight bend and inward angle. Ok that's all LOL

@Lt. Dan also, after you position the buckles, make sure that the rubber straps aren't too long. It will make them bend up and not lay properly across the shoulders.