Chaos

https://www.facebook.com/groups/DeathTroopersBG

@Lt. Dan I found this over on Paul's Shoretrooper build page, a lot of the Rouge One armors where built the same. The little greeblies inside are where elastic filament is threaded to pull the forearms together but allows them to clamshell open. I modified mine to do the same.

They are Dr Martens Jereds

@Lt. Dan if your forearms are from Denis, they are 3D printed with an Armory Shop special semi-flexible filament then painted. Did you line them with the fiberglass like you did the larger pieces? If your forearms are one piece split, then you can gently heat the inside with a hair dryer. Then gently and slowly compress the diameter to make the circumference smaller. Make sure you spread out your applied pressure across the entire surface area. You dont want to end up with a thumb indentation like the ANH TK bicep. The paint should bend with the PLA, Denis uses a primer with his paint. Where it will be tricky is the two wrist bands, but the diameter should be sufficient enough to open and close around your wrist.

@Lt. Dan If you go for a clamshell type closure you can easily adjust the radius smaller, when making the overlap use the side that has the least amount of detail. If that makes sense. On the shins, use the cover strip attached to the outside piece to overlap the inside piece. Thin velcro along the seam keeps them closed. When you pad the insides to fill out the extra space, you run the chance of the armor looking "un-proportional"

LOL yessss! A DTS2

Thank you! Hopefully!

Just got word from my GMLs that my DT Version 2 has been approved. As soon as they update my profile I'm dropping my Specialist Level 2 application. So siked!

You have several options with the boxes. 1. put the Chicago screws so that female side is epoxied to the inside of the box and the male side is outside and thru the belt. 2. place a thin layer of E6000 on the inside edges and then put the front panel on. If you have to get to the screws you and always pry off the fronts, clean the E6000 off and repeat as needed. 3. E6000 small magnets inside the boxes and the front, only issue with this is that they can get knocked off. I use the #1 setup.

Daniel when you get to the strapping part give me a shout. I use a combination of UKSWRATH's harness system, a simple suspender type set up for the abdomen corset stuff, and part of the Paul's Shoretrooper strapping techniques. I trooped for the first time in my overhauled set up and I was quite impressed at how much more comfortable everything was. Hopefully when Denis made your kit all the measurements came out, if you need to make adjustments post up here first, I am sure someone has encountered the same issue. Best of luck!

Hey Brother, I changed my set up to include a corset design and am going to a trooping today so hopefully I won't have to make any adjustments . I'll post up how I incorporated the abdomen and lower back armor pieces. It basically looks like the Shoretrooper.

Jeffrey, the center bridge and tusk area vents look good. I have attached photos of my Anovos for reference, you could add a little more black weathering to to the side vents. Al ways remem ber that less is more when it comes to "weathering"

You might want to rethink the files you are using for the helmet, they are way off and are going to require a lot of modifications. Here are just a few examples. Not trying to bust your chops, I encourage everyone to strive for CRL and 501st approval standards. If you want to print your own helmet I recommend using Sean Fields files.

Finally finished it and I must say I think it looks awesome! I have it listed on my Etsy shop now. Its a one of a kind and probably the closest to "screen accuracy" that you will find right now. https://www.etsy.com/listing/937699050/sith-trooper-blaster-st-w48

Starting the paint and details.

The CRL states "The armor parts shall be gloss black and made from one of these types of materials or like materials:" Armor, is this case refers to the entire kit unless a different color or sheen is noted (ie. for the helmet or the chest and abdomen asymmetrical panels,) So yes you can safely assume that all your hard parts to include pouch covers and belt boxes are gloss black.

Well done and Congratulations!

Need some opinions: Screens or No screens, the blaster will have the interchangable option to be a rifle with the rear stock or carbine without, but if I install the screens they will be fixed and non removable.

If you have a 3d file, use a 3d editing program to add a cavity for the battery and LED. If you can't do that, then you might have to just buy the Plastic Arms Dealers. At least with PAD's you're guaranteed that I'll fit, and it's resin so there won't be much work to do to it.

I'm thinking Sith Trooper for your next project LOL

Yep, when they re-vamped the forum the bbcode function was removed. I'll eventually get around to editing my links. Luckily the pictures are still on imgur.

So that's why all my previous photos are jackered up! They have that bcc image code. LOL

Glad to see you are making your build happen, goes without saying, but as you do your build, you might as well use the Level 2 requirements, we are still waiting for our first Deathtrooper "Level 2 Specialist" applicant. I'm overhauling my 4 year old kit to Level 2 standards now. Best of luck on your build

Sounds like you are on the right track with your build. Thank you for sharing your build with us!

@IcyTrooper I concur, I just wanted to make sure we were all on the same sheet of music before @Lt. Dan pulled the trigger on a shoe maker to modify his Talibs so he knows exactly what is needed. For Level 2, the boots need to replicate the Jared's as pictured