Chaos

Daniel when you get to the strapping part give me a shout. I use a combination of UKSWRATH's harness system, a simple suspender type set up for the abdomen corset stuff, and part of the Paul's Shoretrooper strapping techniques. I trooped for the first time in my overhauled set up and I was quite impressed at how much more comfortable everything was. Hopefully when Denis made your kit all the measurements came out, if you need to make adjustments post up here first, I am sure someone has encountered the same issue. Best of luck!

Hey Brother, I changed my set up to include a corset design and am going to a trooping today so hopefully I won't have to make any adjustments . I'll post up how I incorporated the abdomen and lower back armor pieces. It basically looks like the Shoretrooper.

Jeffrey, the center bridge and tusk area vents look good. I have attached photos of my Anovos for reference, you could add a little more black weathering to to the side vents. Al ways remem ber that less is more when it comes to "weathering"

You might want to rethink the files you are using for the helmet, they are way off and are going to require a lot of modifications. Here are just a few examples. Not trying to bust your chops, I encourage everyone to strive for CRL and 501st approval standards. If you want to print your own helmet I recommend using Sean Fields files.

Finally finished it and I must say I think it looks awesome! I have it listed on my Etsy shop now. Its a one of a kind and probably the closest to "screen accuracy" that you will find right now. https://www.etsy.com/listing/937699050/sith-trooper-blaster-st-w48

Starting the paint and details.

The CRL states "The armor parts shall be gloss black and made from one of these types of materials or like materials:" Armor, is this case refers to the entire kit unless a different color or sheen is noted (ie. for the helmet or the chest and abdomen asymmetrical panels,) So yes you can safely assume that all your hard parts to include pouch covers and belt boxes are gloss black.

Well done and Congratulations!

Need some opinions: Screens or No screens, the blaster will have the interchangable option to be a rifle with the rear stock or carbine without, but if I install the screens they will be fixed and non removable.

If you have a 3d file, use a 3d editing program to add a cavity for the battery and LED. If you can't do that, then you might have to just buy the Plastic Arms Dealers. At least with PAD's you're guaranteed that I'll fit, and it's resin so there won't be much work to do to it.

I'm thinking Sith Trooper for your next project LOL

Yep, when they re-vamped the forum the bbcode function was removed. I'll eventually get around to editing my links. Luckily the pictures are still on imgur.

So that's why all my previous photos are jackered up! They have that bcc image code. LOL

Glad to see you are making your build happen, goes without saying, but as you do your build, you might as well use the Level 2 requirements, we are still waiting for our first Deathtrooper "Level 2 Specialist" applicant. I'm overhauling my 4 year old kit to Level 2 standards now. Best of luck on your build

Sounds like you are on the right track with your build. Thank you for sharing your build with us!

@IcyTrooper I concur, I just wanted to make sure we were all on the same sheet of music before @Lt. Dan pulled the trigger on a shoe maker to modify his Talibs so he knows exactly what is needed. For Level 2, the boots need to replicate the Jared's as pictured

Ok, I'm just now seeing this, been traveling, so this is how I interpret Level 2. Its purpose is to make your costume as screen accurate as possible. The boots Level 2 require "original Doc Martens Jareds or REPLICA." Talibs and Meyers are close, but technically not replicas, so to replicate the Jared, the pull tab and heel stitching pattern, along with the ankle padding, should replicate what is seen in the reference photos. Now how GMLs and the Detachment staff interpret that for Level 2 is the question and should be a discussion in it self. Is it replicated when worn with the shins? Or is it replicated when the whole boot (seen and unseen parts) replicates the Jared? Step back and look at it this way, TKs Centurion Level 2 requires "split rivets" the only visible way to verify that is to look inside at the unseen back of the rivot. So should our boots be replicas regardless of what is seen or unseen? I originally said that its the location of tab that can make Talibs Level 2, that was because it will usually be seen when shins are worn due to the fit of the shins over the boot. But after more thought, should we go the split rivet route? @nanotek @Blackwatch @IcyTrooper @RAIDER

@Jayse01 to be honest, unless you can find Jareds or Talibs in your size, the IB boot is your next best choice, I've watched many people try and rationalize a boot that they have found that is less expensive and might meet CRL but would need modifications. The time and money spent doing that could be better spent on another part of the costume.

Good day, early on in the original CRL development there were several discussions about the heavy blaster and what exactly was the function of the two devices under the main barrel. A decision that the devices were lighting was made base upon two sources. One was from Victor, an actor who played a DT in R1 that they were flashlights. Both the DLT19 and E11D had flashlights. They were turned on during the night storm seen at the Eadu research facility. Take a look at the DTs in the back ground, two are carrying the DLT19 and both appear to be illuminated. This confirms what Victor told us. Hope this answers your question. Best of luck on your build. I too am reworking my original build to Level 2 requirements. DLT19X https://imgur.com/gallery/aq1LYlm Weapons are not a requirement for 501st approval, so if you are trying for Level 2 you don't need the DLT19 as it is listed as "optional accessories" it will not be a show stopper for you.

Looks awesome! Personally I'd dull down the silver on the bolt/extractor most of us just paint it flat black or black wash it.

Nice work! I bet the kiddo was happy to have his own DT escort. Most of the issues you found are normal. I can't think of anyone who was able to have a perfect wearing the first, or even the 10th time putting the armor on. Heck its been 3 years since I first put my armor on and even right now I am in the process of tweaking it again. I too used a grey primer under my top gloss coat, and just like you I have wear spots that the primer shows thru, in my opinion it adds character to the "weathered" effect. I guess its wearer's preference. If you are looking for a durable gloss topcoat you can use some type of resin like Andy uses on his armor, or you can use SprayMax 2K clearcoat. Its a little pricey and does require attention to detail when using, but it is an automobile clear coat so it stands up to the rubbing. Another technique I use on my armor is for the pieces that overlay another and that rub, I attached black felt pads to eliminate the rubbing and wearing, it works and if you position them correctly, they don't show at all. Keep at it, you'll find you never stop tweaking, that the fun part of this hobby.

Word of advice, after you repair your armor pieces, it would be worth it to fiberglass resin coat the backside of your high stress pieces for reinforcement

I know this thread has been locked but hey ... silly me has a question: We know the FWMB-10B was made by SONN-BLAS but who the heck manufactured the ST-W48 blaster rifles?

@darthRivera and @nanotek The IB Killer boots are indeed Level 1 and Level 2 as they have the appropriate toe and sole/heel requirements. What's makes them Level 2 would be the pull tab midway up on the heel. Talibs and Meyers can be Level 2 by placing/sewing a 1/2 inch wide folded leather pull tab midway up the heel. The top ankle padding is a bonus but not required

Looks like we may be resorting to Nike Penetrator Hi tops and paint them black LOL Its a cap toed shoe and the sole sides are close enough.