Chaos

Yes, no stitching showing on the pouch. There are a couple tutorials that individuals made in which they DIY'd their pouch.

@Mal86 Paul, Welcome to the Darker side of the Darkside! I'm looking forward to your build and having another Death Trooper in our ranks. I have Jim Tripon's complete kit; armor, soft parts, undersuit, etc. I did swap out his helmet for an Anovos that I found at a really good price. I can tell you that I went with Jim's kit for several reasons, the 1st being that at the time I built mine, Jim's kit, MCM, and Armory Shop's 3D printed kits were really the only three options at the time. Since then there have been ABS kits by KB Props and 850. Initially the ABS pulls just didn't have the sharpness in detail that I was looking for in a kit. 850 has come a long way with additional 3D printed and cast greeblies to make their kit closer to the screen look. With all that being said, even though Jim's kit will be heavier than an ABS, its durability is a plus in my book. Jim's undersuit is Level 2 approvable just as it comes. He actually uses a faux leather and has his seamstress hand sew each rib so it looks almost identical to the screen used suits. His design of a shirt and pants combination we later found out wasn't how the costumers designed the screen suits, however, when worn under the armor pieces, Jim's kit can be Level 2. His armor kit can be built to Level 1 easily and with a little more work and some minor alterations, can be built to Level 2 standards as well. I was approved at Level 2 with his undersuit and armor kit. If you are going to build any kit, I would recommend taking the extra time and effort to build it to Level 2 initially, you will be very pleased in the end. Please let us know if you have any questions or need any kind of advice, this armor has been around for a while and a lot of progress has been made by our members thru trial and error, and research over the years. Death Troopers will always be a classic! Best of luck with your build.

That looks amazing, were it mine, the only thing I would do is change the red rubber switch cover to black on the counter, and paint the laser pointer wires both black.

@DoggyDoc Gerald, this might help. E-11D Decal Locations.pdf

Both look good, go with it!

I did mine the same way

I cut the ends at an angle so they sit flush against the greeblie, I'll look for a photo

Someone asked the same question sometime back so I had this in one of my folders. Let me know if you have any questions.

Gerald, To be honest, the only CRL requirement is this "Each tusk may be optionally fitted with back lighting which is green when illuminated." Since we never see them illuminated in the movie, it really shouldn't have been a CRL requirement. I remember seeing one scene in the cave that was cut from the movie where they were illuminated and of course there is the concept art which has them illuminated. To be honest even it has a bright spot it doesn't matter, my Anovos helmet which was designed from an original helmet has 5mm holes in the tusks for an LED to be inserted, so that tells me they used LEDS and not light panels. Save your money, and go with what you did here. That's how mine looks.

Ok I am going to get started on this for you. My notes on the photos make perfect sense to me but they may not to you but that's OK, just say "Chaos... WTH are you talking about?!" and I will try and do a better job. Jim Tripon's back piece is awesome and has all the correct details, but one issue I had and it looks like you are having the same issue is that the back of his neck/collar sits a little too high for people with normal necks, this causes the helmet to sit lower and the collar to rise up higher causing the two to "bang into each other and limit your ability to look up. I trimmed almost 1 1/2 inches off the very back and blended the cut line up into the sides of the collar see photos You also need to rotate your back piece up and forward to bring the back edge of the collar so that it is touching the back of your neck seal. By rotating the back piece and collar forward you will also bring the front of the tusks down to where they should be sitting. In order to accomplish this you will need to raise your chest armor up as well, yours is sitting too low the side pieces that go over your shoulders for the chest and the back armor should meet center line of your shoulder, the best way to accomplish this is hold the chest and back pieces in place so they are correctly positioned and then then make a mark on the centerline for each piece and then cut the overlapping pieces so that they meet and are flush. Since I use a tab to support my shoulder bells, my back shoulder piece is slightly more forward but you can see how I have trimmed and adjusted so mine meet flush. You can also see how I trimmed my neck/collar so that the back sits lower. Now that you have the back and chest plates in position, you need to raise up your abdomen armor, it is sitting way too low which is causing everything to push down. As long as you have 2 of the horizontal details showing you are good by CRL standards. After raising your abdomen, you need to also raise your lower back plate with the TD on it, it is sitting too low as well. You can also trim off some of the top of your posterior plate, it will be covered by the belt. Once you have all the upper armor in place and fitted then you can work on your thighs. The bottom of the thighs should be just above the top off your knee cap by about an inch. This gives you freedom of movement when you walk and keeps the sniper knee greeblie from banging into the shin armor I recommend putting a piece of velcro on the front top of your lace covers and put the other side on the inside front of your shins, this will keep the top of the lace covers from popping out from under the shins Lastly, you might want to think about changing the chest ammo pouch vertical straps, they are too wide, the CRL says 22-33mm or 7/8 to 1 1/4 inches. I hope all this made sense and helps out. This armor is very detail oriented and everything has to be adjusted just right for it all to fit together and look right. Let me know if you have any questions etc.

No, they are completely different. To visualize the differences, right click each link below and "open in a separate tab" https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_Sith_Trooper https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_-_First_Order

If you are looking for a prebuilt and finished Sith Trooper kit you are not going to find it. Jim Tripon @jimmiroquai makes a Sith Trooper kit that is pretty spot on but it requires sizing/trimming and assembly and painting.

Hector, I have not forgotten about you, work has been really busy, I hope to have you something by the weekend.

OK so you have Jim's side D rings then. Here is a file I made for my Jimmi side D rings, you can either print it in a TPU filament or do what I did and print it in PETG and painted with Dupli color flat black plasti-dip. https://www.dropbox.com/s/b7ir3n2sdu7dz9v/1 Side Buckle Straps 10 Feb 21.stl?dl=0

@Tiderion did your Jimmi's kit come with the side D rings?

Hector, That is awesome you were able to get your kit together and able to wear it. It always helps when you can finally put it all on and find the areas that need adjustments. Your build has progressed nicely. When I get a chance in the next couple of days I will take a look at your photos and provide you with some feedback before you are ready to submit for 501st approval. I think I can help with some of your mobility issues and the overall appearance of your kit. There are some things that are not CRL compliant which I will include in my observations and some things that, although not covered in the CRL specifically, are generally followed for overall appearance by the majority of the DT community.

I concur

This is exactly what I did, I had originally sized my shins to wear with my Talib's. When I got my Jared's, they were too tight. I cut the inside leather about 1 1/2" and just pulled the foam out from all the panels. It doesn't keep you from achieving Level 2. Keep the pull tab as that is a L2 requirement.

From the CRL: "D-ring is attached to a shorter strap, similar in appearance and size to the shoulder straps with a smooth trapezoid shape at the top end." Here is what it should look like, if yours is anywhere close you are good to go. If you are asking about the height of the rectangle's surface in relationship to the surface of the triangle, they are the same level across all.

Dan is spot on.

Most of us who have Jm's kit have put bondo or some kind of "smoothing" material on the inside of the collar tusks and since they are visible, painted them gloss back at least to the point where the neck seal hides the inside of the collar. The screen suit's inside collar is gloss black. By default, if the CRL states "armor is gloss black" "except where annotated" then any visible armor needs to be gloss black. The raise area you see on the inside of my collar is where I installed a tab that slides under the chest piece to keep my collar tusks flush against the front armor.

Here are a couple of photos for reference: If you are using MCM's NSM design, there is a piece on the black that fits into the Anovos and most other helmet's side trap's indentation. so when it is worn with an Anovos helmet (My set up is this way) it sits slightly higher The Anovos "Specialist" helmet NSM sits about where you have yours Promo shot has it somewhere between mine and the Anovos photo Both the screen used suit at Celebrations and Victor's suit have the front top rectangle detail above the brow's matte black/rubber stripe. Basically any of these locations are acceptable.

screen suit My Jimmi suit modification

It's a little low. I've got a few pictures of the screen suits, let me get to them later today and I'll post them.