Chaos

@Talltrooper Stuart, Jim makes a "Tall" kit for people over 6' the shins, thighs, and forearms are longer. He will ask you for your body measurements and then put you a size appropriate kit together.

Look what I found LOL E-11D Mag for 9VDC.stl

You know what .... now that you said something. I took a 9volt sized 3D file block and inserted it into the mag and mag well files and then subtracted the space in my 3D builder program. That's how I was able to get it to fit. my "sometimers" was kicking in.

All right I'll work you up a pattern you can use. Give me your waist size and chest length ( where your neck meets your shoulder, down your front to wear you normally wear a belt around your waist. I'll work on it this weekend.

Hey Ethan @Tiderion I also use Tony's @ukswrath strapping system primarily because its a great product, he is a great guy, and I always support him when I can. To be honest, Tony made a great universal kit with multi-snap locations etc. but when I started to strap my kit this last time I sort of modified his straps to fit how I reconstructed my kit. Let me ask you a couple questions and when I get a response back from you I will have a better idea of what you will need. 1. You are still using Jim's kit correct? 2. You are still using Darkside Closet's undersuit? 3. If you had the straps and buckles do you think you could cut nylon webbing and either sew with a machine or hand stitch well enough to make the needed loops in the webbing or if sewing isn't your thing are you safe enough to use superglue? I am not at home right now and won't be for a few weeks, but I am sure I can draw you up some easy to follow designs to get you on the right track. I'll get back with you after you reply.

Well it has been a while since I have posted anything. I can't tell you how many times I have modified the hands and fingers, seems like each time I get what I think is accurate .... BOOM! I find some small detail I missed before. I have a long weekend so I hope I can draft print off my latest modifications and fit test them. I have also been heavily modifying the statue files I got from Nico last year, which has involved making them more screen accurate and "wearable" so as I work on a section I will throw it in Armorsmith to see how it'll look on my avatar. This is what I did today. Its no where near done but hopefully with my long weekend coming up I can at least nail down some of the less detailed pieces.

Found a link to the photo. https://imgur.io/a/XGmSW Check your sizes

I'm sure my mag well and mag were big enough for a 9volt. Is your 3D files the correct size? Some 3D files and printed kits you get from some makers are 12% too small. I did a size comparison so people could make sure they had the right size. I'll see if I can find it. I'm not at the house right now so I can't take any photos for a few more weeks.

Gerald, I know you worked on using the handle. I put mine in the side magazine, and used small neodymian discs to hold in place. I thought about the using the handle but I was afraid that having the handle "separate-able" might create a weak spot in the construction, especially since a lot of times the handle will be your only holding point.

Jo, nice job! I and another member are in various stages of building kits, I think you are the first to actually build something that is wearable and recognizable. We have not actually started any CRL wording. I think the biggest hurdle is determining what we want the CRL to represent. We have some good photos from a Mandalorian Exhibit at which they had a stunt suit on display. which though very similar to the screen CGI effects suits, it still has some missing components and obvious variations in the hands, mid section, neck, shoulders, and limb joints. If we go the stunt route, it will make it easier to replicate a wearable suit, but it will be very obvious that it is not as what appeared on screen. If we go the screen route, we will have to have all the elements of the screen version but in a design that can be worn. Andreas, who has a build thread already started is going the stunt route for the most part and is doing an awesome job with pulling ABS and various other build materials. I am going the 3D route. I have finished modifying a helmet from Do3D which is a great design but it lacked some of the detail greeblies that were seen on the screen helmet. I have completed the forearms and biceps. My biggest challenge has been the hands. I started out using the design of the stunt suit, but was not happy with the way it looked verses the screen. I think the screen hands are way more ominous so I completely resigned them. I am in the process of printing and assembling the pieces and hope to have a finished hand design in the next couple of weeks. You might want to turn this into a build thread if you have photos from your build or maybe post up individual pieces with explanations on construction etc. Build threads we can reference will help us immensely in progressing to actually writing a CRL.

Andreas, that photo is too small (50x50) to see

Casey, here is Jim's email contact info just in case you didn't want to go the FB route. jimmiroquai@yahoo.com Denuo Novo took over when Anovos screwed the pooch and upset a lot of people and lost their "Licensed" status with LFL. Their helmet, though a little more in cost is the most accurate helmet out there. If they are using the same manufacturing process, the helmet was made by scanning an actual screen prop helmet. I would recommend asking around your Garrison and see if anyone has an Anovos helmet you could try on before you buy one. The sizing is the same as the screen ones and some people have had fitment issues. 850 (if I understand correctly) offers their kits painted in all gloss black, and the gunmetal two tone is painted in accordance with the current CRL painting scheme. There has been some confusion that the armor has to be painted IAW the Paint Scheme, however, if you read thru the CRL some pieces specifically say if a piece is painted a color other than gloss black and other say "maybe be painted." Rule of thumb, if you painted one piece IAW the Paint Scheme, then all the pieces must be painted IAW the Paint Scheme. Most people just use the Paint Scheme to keep everything simple and to ensure basic approval. Level 2 definitely requires following the Paint Scheme. Right now I think 850 and Jim Tripon are the only ones who have been vetted by our staff producing kits. KB Props has offered DT ABS kits as well but I haven't seen anything from him lately. Of course there are also people who have 3D printed their kits from Tom Campbell's files. He does not sell them anymore, I had heard someone else was selling the same files when he stopped but I can't find the reference right now. The order of higher to lower detail in the kits are 3D, Jim's then ABS kits like 850 and KB. I have seen that 850 is improving the minor details crispness in their kits, so I would recommend taking a look at each kit up close and see which ones suit your preference.

Jim's kit doesn't have a piece under the abdomen. I used a piece of ABS and epoxied it to the bottom edge. This gave me a place to put velcro strips to hold the belt in place.

Case, welcome to the darkerside of The Darkside. Excellent choice in the DT. For boots and gloves you can check out Imperial Boots or Crowprops. Right now the only maker I know who is making quality undersuits in Jim Tripon, you can find him on FB. Best of luck with your build, and always we are here to assist.

SE-14R strapping. We have seen 3 ways in the movie and TV, I have mine like the far right configuration.

@DoggyDoc wished I'd know you needed the belt pouch covers, I've got a file for that as well. I'll send you some pictures later reference the pistol strapping.

I hate sanding, I've started dabbling in using UV resins on my small detailed 3rd Gen Dark Trooper pieces, it definitely cuts down on my over all sanding. Just a thought.

That looks really good! You are going to shorten the buttstock rods aren't you? 😉

Andreas, if you are trying to post photos from your computer, the maximum size of all attached files is 260.74 MB, as long as you post ta few at a time in separate posts it should work.

What are you trying to do?

Excellent find!

Do you have access to a 3D printer? If so you can print a file I have in a flexible filament like TPU or a name brand called PolyFlex. Your other option is to file any rubber matting that has ridges that are 3-4mm in width and evenly spaced. The original material's ribs are rounded, however, the CRL does not specifically say that. (We did that on purpose so people could use any similar looking matting. When you size your thighs you will have to make sure you follow the CRL particularly where the inside and outside width ratios are concerned. The ribbed infill shall be made of black rubber, or a semi-gloss black material, or if part of the thigh pieces, have the appearance of being rubber or rubber-like material. The inside thigh ribbed section is wider than the outside ribbed section. Something like this is probably about the closest you will find at a reasonable price https://www.amazon.com/Herco-All-Purpose-Corrugated-Rubber/dp/B01EK5AMBW I would show this to your GML and ask him if this would meet his/her approval. It meets the CRL requirements and looks close enough in my option. I have not seen this in person but from the pictures it looks right. You don't want to use the same matting as the belt material.

The links should still be good, but let me know if they don't work.

I saw that! Andreas is killing it! I have had to put my project on a brief hiatus, I got a promotion and its interfering with my project. @Andreas Funk I have not forgotten about the hand files. Once again I redesigned the finger joints. I am printing them off this week so hopefully the changes I made will be better than the last design. Be patient!

Best way to color the shoulder buckles is to paint them silver. Then paint them black and knock down or "wear off" the black paint to reveal the silver in areas that would normally show wear. The D rings are done the same way but because they would receive more wear and tear, they appear to be more of a silver color. The side buckles are done the same way.