nanotek

How many did you order?

The Facebook group for anyone who is interested is this one https://www.facebook.com/groups/foundpartsoftheoriginaltrilogy/?ref=share It’s a fantastic resource for anyone who is interested. There are still many common greeblies that people are on the hunt for and are finding on a regular basis. Thanks for the prompt to share this resource Link to the original discussion https://www.facebook.com/groups/foundpartsoftheoriginaltrilogy/permalink/637728234005592/

I think there is also rubber/pvc tape that can be applied. As long as the text is agnostic of methods to get the effect I think we will be good

Hey Mika, to be honest I don't really know the definitive answer to this question, however I would say as long as the gasket is black you will be ok. if you check out the CRL pics really close you can see that what was used here appears to be a satin finish. @IcyTrooper might be able to provide more info?

Hey Robin, to be honest I don't really know the definitive answer to this question, however I would say as long as the gasket is black you will be ok. if you check out the CRL pics really close you can see that what was used here appears to be a satin finish. @IcyTrooper might be able to provide more info?

I haven't ordered Shadow Scout specific items from them, but have seen their work and it looks good. I have ordered Death Trooper and Sith Trooper related items from them and they are very good quality. Hopefully you will get a response soon

Definitely not leather, definitely rubber/pu type material. Also is Del's Inferno patch metallic red?

I think before you go off and make something/spend money, we should find an accurate reference for the coat, otherwise we won’t be able to get it past the LMO team.

I'm inclined to go with the WWII slicker as they have the similar collar that @JAFO pointed out in his reference he provided. I don't think it is leather at all judging by the material pattern observed in this close up pic. What this does resemble is a PVC or rubberised material which is consistent with WWII motorcycle coats. WWII motorcycle coat with material on the collar: (not exact reference) We currently have no references from behind, so the only thing we really have to go on is the coat, I think if we can find the right coat then we might have a chance of pushing this CRL forward.

Nice!

Looking great! Any progress? *nudge nudge* ?

It largely depends on the kit you're going to work with, your budget and how much time you can spare. I did my DT (3d printed) in 3 months once I had all the materials, but it was a huge commitment in terms of time! It can be done, you just gotta plan it out and commit. Getting help from your local chapter can help, the more hands the better!

I managed to adjust the brightness of one of the source images to see the inside of the glove to help determine the correct glove. Good new is there's no padding or complex seams sewn into the inside! From what I can tell the glove is four pieces sewn together, 2 for the glove and 2 for the gauntlet with 4 seams and a hem at the opening. So the closest I could find for an "off the shelf" glove was this one here: https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/leather-white-welding-gloves-23882415230.html But it still has some stitching that is missing, most notably at the opening of the glove, but could easily be fixed. The next option is to build it yourself, this is a very simple glove pattern and wouldn't take much effort to sew. Otherwise if you're not confident in your sewing, you could approach someone for the commission.

Hey there, sorry it's taken so long to respond! It looks like you had a set of gloves and then decided not to use them? I would be keen to understand some of the issues you're having in a little more detail. They kinda looked like you were on the right track? While I agree that some things can be pushed into L2, it will depend on the type of seam and how visible it is. For example, looking at the gloves from this angle I can see the seam very clearly (even though the pic is low res) It is my opinion if it can be seen, we need to replicate. I started to have a Google to see what is out there but I run out of time and need to get to work. I did find some cheap close matches, and will get back to you in the next 24hours

One you have upload pics to imgur you can right-click and copy image address, then paste the link here, hit enter and the image will automatically display

I am so sorry it has taken so long to get back to you, of course it is fine as long as you trust your friend to respect the our rules. I gave pm'd you

I split these posts out from the other member's build.

Thank Ryan, another item that has come up for discussion is the weathering. We are discussing the light use of paint to help accentuate the physical gouges. This would be purely optional and would need to be done in a way that it does not dirty up the surrounding armor. Here is my recommendation for the text: Weathering of this costume is MANDATORY consisting of: physical scratches and gouges; NOT surface weathering techniques such as painting or scuffing. Optional: Black paint may be used to accentuate the gouge marks in the armor as long as it stays within the confines of the gouges and is not applied heavily. The surrounding surface of the armor cannot be dirty/scuffed with paint. All weathering will be consistent across the costume with no piece/s standing out from the others.

I did a full review after we had permission from the LMO team to proceed. With regards to the weathering I think it should be worded like this Weathering of this costume is MANDATORY consisting of physical scratches and gouges, NOT surface weathering techniques such as painting or scuffing. All weathering will be consistent across the costume with no piece/s standing out from the others. I am a little concerned that if this is important, by placing it in the Special Notes section lends to the possibility of it being missed. Maybe each component should mention weathering. I know it sounds a bit like overkill but I would hate to see that work overlooked. What do you think? I noted that there are a few references to hexagonal pieces, most notably the left shoulder and the chest sheath. I think the shoulder should be rectangular and the sheath for the knives is trapezoidal in shape. With regards to the left shoulder bell there is a reference to On the top of the shoulder there is a raised detail that resembles an intake/scoop that matches the references material. I couldn't find a picture that shows an intake/scoop. Is the raised section just raised and not an intake or scoop? Also in the pics the size of the left shoulder is larger than the right, is this correct and should we mention that? Other than these couple of items, the whole CRL looks great! The costume looks really good too @RAIDER, a job well done!

Congrats! Swampys are awesome! You might also like to consider the Specialist program at some point as well https://forum.specops501st.com/forum/40-the-specialist-program/

These are things we can change if we need to, and maybe it might be a good idea so that we can keep them together in the listing. Thoughts?

Please post a pic of the cracks if you can. It's really hard to provide advice about something when we cannot see the extent of the damage. In most cases it is pretty easy to repair, can be as simple as sanding back and painting, sanding and using primer-filler and painting or may need more intensive repair if the cracks are larger. I painted my whole kit Satin Black using the Rustoleum2X Satin Black. It was a really simple job, just used some 1200 grit wet sanding to prepare the surface for paint. Just make sure to clean the surfaces correctly before applying the paint.

I think if we have references for both 1 AND 2 straps then we can say that. We will need to be specific about widths for each option though. Does that sound agreeable?

I agree, keep it consistent across the characters. Makes it less confusing for builders.

Cool, we are here to support you and tbh it's new ground for all of us as the baseline armour is ANH, and it has a very unique look due to it being vac formed. I had a chat with the DL from FISD (who has provided guidance to Chris) and his understanding is the files were created to form bucks for vac forming, so this will also need to be considered in the build - you may have to use fibreglass resin to soften some of the sharper edges.