Blackwatch

I dont feel we need to rework things like weapons and the box. Those are ultimately optional and well described. This may wrap us up! I made some final edits to the boot text to simplify it. Boots Tall black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material . Visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boot shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap.

ive been out several days and im back now but ill be headed back out tomorrow so I want to get this put in place. Lets finish the forearms and move on. change log V2.1 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. Lighting them is permitted but not preferred. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tan or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor. Optional level 2 details: Commpad lights are not illuminated

i get paid tomorrow. thats all im sayin.........

as a model builder i always gloss varnished, weathered and let the weathering flatten it out. However we know that the armor was sprayed with a gloss paint and it has a shine to it, with a simple acrylic slopped in. its the most basic weathering we have seen in most of the movies / series. Im curious about the files and may buy them if you found them easy enough to rpint. I have the original mudtrooper files from Sean from several years back but files and shapes change. how did you find the files to print?

its been several days since our last post, so lets finish the E11 holster discussion and ill get all the updates posted to the finalized text topic.

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

printed in silver silk you are great for scratches to show through as they wear in

Thanks Tony I dont see anything jumping out at me, good luck with approval!

thanks for posting that link we have had those things break on the original molded plastic when the plastic wedge is just barely big enough to barely fit the strap in. Now i know where to go to just print more in petg

Scous are great, and trimming isnt bad. I acually use a belt sande and scribe and snap method for most of my armor, and i much prefer to buy raw untrimmed armor. Scouts are a fun build and other than the trimming all the sewing , building the boots and the helmet assembly I can do one in a long day. I paint what needs to be painted first and let that dry while Im working on the other stuff. Make sure you have your bund on hand thats going to help with your fitting. Remember, the belt is worn low on the hips, not up on your gut. Im GML here and my recent applicant kept hiking his way up on his gut like a belt to hold his pants up. start a WIP here so we can guide you,and my advice to you would be to build it to the L2 Speciast Level from the outset so you can get specialist approval here after basic approval.

I cant verify anywhere that the red and blue lights were ever actually turned on, i cant see them in the dark lit scenes. Do we have anything that shows them working? id like to include it but like all lights we need to see them working, like on Vader or Fett. Lets call this change log 2.0 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tannish or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor.

Im ok with that. After spending the money on getting a new holster JUST for Del Id ike to have a E11 to carry as well as the DLT since we see him in game with the E11 a lot of the time. next are boots. Im making my suggested edits here: Boots Calf high black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material and may have tread or no tread. visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed with boot material as to not be visible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots stop just below wearers knees. Shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the wearers knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap. Boots are not shiny, they have a matte appearance.

i reallllly wish my waist was that small. Thats one thing I fear about wearing this armor, just how small the waist line circuference is.

the backplate on the ISB agent back got changed and the hose ports are different there, and we dd touch on those differences. That would help sort it.

Hi again Paul and thanks for taking care of this!!!! Ok, very good questions you got there, and I think for the sake of simpicitiy and instead of doing all three suitups, lets do a suitup using the matching green WITH the sigil. This photo shows us all the variants, and it'll be up to the LMO to decide but a full proper suitup with the matching green with sigil gets us moving. Thanks again for taking care of this.

hi John which costume is this for?

yeah, agreed, lets keep that and rock on. These are only L2 changes. Here's how it will look once edited with bullet points. Is there any more input on the scout det? Thermal Detonator Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular gloss black Thermal Detonator with a black corrugated hose. The ends of the hose is covered by gloss black end caps. The Thermal Detonator fits between the two back belt pouches. There are two silver detail greeblies on the central box. These details consist of a dome-shaped greeblie on the left side of the box and rectangular greeblie with various designs on the right side of the box. For basic (Level 1) approval a gloss black Shadow Scout style Thermal Detonator with standard greeblies is acceptable, as long as the greeblies are painted silver. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Made with reference to the game's 3D model and scaled to the wearer. The detonator consists of a boxy central structure containing a ribbed hose, and end caps which are "closed" where the tube enters the end cap. The detonator box features a round dome-shaped greeblie approximately 5/8" (16mm) on the left side and a 3/4" x 1.5" (19mm x 33mm) rectangular greeblie featuring various designs as seen in the reference images. The standard shadow scout thermal detonator is not accurate and is not to be used for Level 2 approval.

I am taking another stab at writing this piece. I am TOTALLY OPEN to anyone helping me reword this. Change Log 1.2. This is a major edit. Forearms Forearms are may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are not are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. The plates of the left forearm are shorter than the right forearm. A commpad featuring varous depresssions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. Four allen head flat screws are present on the corners. There are four colored depressions on the commpad block near the ebow. There are two tan or beige straps on each forearm. Part of the strap is molded and resembles the shin straps. The remainder of the strap is white cotton textile webbing and closes with a whlte side release buckle with square opening on the side. A white cylndrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. It may be lighted with a battery mounted inside the forearm. No wires are visible. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor.

dannnnnnnnnnnnng Yup--my printer is pretty busy these days but its gonna get a workout on that one.

Interesting stuff. I do apprecitate the insiders POV and I want to thank those in the know for the resect and candor shown in the discussion. How can I improve my description of the forearm component? its pretty sizeable and I dont feel its correctly fleshed out for what it is.

Hi Fernando Welcome to the spec opf forum. Can you also head over to the Spec Ops recruits section and make a post there, so we make sure you are set up with the correct permissions. The coat is an original desing, and doesnt share much in common at all with a BDU coat. And i have a LOT of BDU coats leftove from my service days. I dont know of a pattern for it, and people have been making them from scratch. I know Sheev's Emporium has posted all their research on their FB page, and JimTripon JImmiroqui and KeepTrooping are offering them for sale. I would be inclined to say its pretty simple but I know its not, because in all our research on it, there are features that are blended from othe military blouses over time. The coat hoooks on the sides to hold the belt, the mandarin collar, the cut of the sleeves, its a custom job. You COULD start with a simple jacket patttttern like farm chore coat or even a long sleeve shirt pattern and work ack from that, keepiing in mind the overlap similar to a BDU coat, the blouses featured a back yoke which is easy to see on the green uniforms. You can take a look at a very early sketch a tailor worked out in a post on this page .

I THINK most likely just running it up under the back flap would hold it but having a stitch would keep it from popping off.

thanks guys. My mind is kinda fried right now. Once Im in a better state of mind I can try to write that, but if you want to write it feel free, youve got the hands on- im literally looking at a screen, so you know more what it looks and feels like than I do.

Ive had limited internet access and now that Im back in the forum and seeing this , I am in agreement. I see no changes to be made.

Let stay on track troopers, lets not get off in the weeds again. Options are Options, we are focused on the core of the costume first. If anyone wants to try to clean up my pathetic attemp to describe the forearms, please do. We cannot move forward until we get a full, complete, accurate description of the forearms. Regarding the tan/ beige, would the saharah beige used on the Shoretroopers be appropriate here? Change Log Version 1.1 Forearms Forearms are present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. Forearms are not symmetrical. The ower angled plates of the left forearm are shorter than the right forearm. A commpad featuring varous depresssions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. There are four colored depressions on the commpad block near the ebow. There are two tan or beige straps on each forearm. Part of the strap is molded and resembles the shin straps. The remainder of the strap is white cotton webbing and closes with a whlte side release buckle. A white torch may be present on the left forearm. when we get to the torch/ penlight, these look like options? This will be discussed in the Options section later on https://www.amazon.com/Steelman-95863-2AA-LED-Light/dp/B00KYF9TUI?th=1 https://lumintop.com/product/iyp25/