Blackwatch

That is a virtually identical copy of my boot and a very good find. As long as it fits in that 8-9 inch range you are golden. I shot all of my web gear, webbing glove boots helmet and pouches olive green with Montana Gold Olive. I dont know if you can get that there, but if all your gear matches color-wise, you are set for L2 approval. Good choice on the pouches BTW.

Shayan those were amazingly clear shots, thank you. I love the BTS stuff.

I have this stuff, bought it in bukl and used it. It does have a somewhat glossy finish. Be adivsed not to let that glue inside get too hot (like in an armor tub in south Louisiana in a deserted parking lot in August with no cloud cover and the sun beating you down like the twin suns on tattooine) because the glue gets warm and starts to shift. Other than that, i used a hair dryer to help install it.

I see them twist in pics all the time, because two rivets were used at the ends, making a hinge.

The strenght of 3d prints come from the number of walls. two walls (Perimters) on a print cuts the time in half or less, but its not very strong. I print five walls, and instad of a .4mm Standard nozzle all my printers are set up for .6MM nozzles. I use low infil percentage (9 gyroid or cubic subdivision) , but thats just ice cream to stick the wafers together in an ice cream sandwich. If you take a look at almost any Etsy sale-with exceptions of course- almost all parts like helmets and blasters are printed in PLA. PLA is not strong, not heat resistant, cheap and very easy to print very quickly. You can get it on sale on Amazon for like 12 or 13 USD. Others use PLA+ which has an addititve which makes it a bit stronger and slightly more flexible. There is even a new cosplay filament which is very lighweight and easy to sand. I almost want to buy a roll and print big parts and test them. Just for my own curiousity. Others like myself use PETG, the stuff soda bottles are made with. it is more expensive, requires higher temps than PLA to print, and is somewhat harder to clean up and prep. I print it at 38MM per second vs 60-75 for common PLA. I printed a tasset for my friend Kim sized down to her thigh size and it took 21 hours to print. It will withstand being in her car on a hot day for a few hours. Ive never had a PLA part stand up to my car in the heat. Ive had some really funny (not funny) failures. Hope this helps?

Jason do you think this is something printable or would it stand up? those prongs worry me. Ok, so, we have verbiage on the weapons now, and if anyone is curious, here is where we stand on the CRL proposal. We are literally down to the zap rod. Light. Tunnel. TRAIN?????!!???????

I tried using that Montana Gold color "stealth" it was mentioned early on last year. I find it to be just a bit on the semigloss side, more matt than semigloss, but at least my can was not a true matte finish. I truly appreciate a spray can finish that can give me a proper MATTE finish.

They WERE on mudtrooper.uk but talking to @BigJasoni, he had to take them down. Try Pming Bigjasoni directly.

Good questions-- Fraser? Shayan? You guys got intel on that? it would help all of us if we knew. I have to *IMAGINE* its the pretty standard flip flop hinge but I may be very wrong on that based on how it looks in the series

Thats one of the approved accessories and its not so commonly seen. Maybe I should add one to my new rig since I have to rebuild the whole thing.

looks appropo to me.

Great pics ont he cattle prod! How do you guys get these awesome captures? How about the text on the E11? Are we set on that?

ALICE on BDUs sits much higher, above our hips, i wore the gear during the 80s too so yeah I totally get you. The pockets were configured that way on the BDUs to accomodate the belt. Mine rides really low now covering where the coverall split is

I uuseually only get just a very few minutes a day to work on this. I never noticed the duplications. Those are removed in this proposal. Sorry for my absense, Ive been SLAMMED wth work, our busiest year ever and Im doing all the work in Louisiana and Mississippi. I have employees, they literally do 1/10th the work levels I do because when they are on shift they never get callouts. When Im on shift the phone never stops rining. V1.3 E-11 Blaster Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not authorized accessory for this costume. Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster to depict the Rogue One style E-11 blaster. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun or accurate 3d print file. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

R1 E-11 proposal V1.2 E-11 Blaster Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not authorized accessory for this costume. Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster to depict the Rogue One style E-11 blaster. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun or accurate 3d print file. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

as always please comment on the proposal above .

R1 E-11 proposal V1.1 E-11 Blaster Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not authorized accessory for this costume. Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster to depict the Rogue One style E-11 blaster. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

Hey Gage thanks for the uupdats I would lengthen out the harness and hook it lower to the belt itself so the hooks dont show, we want you go apply for Specialist when you are approved and the hooks should not be visible. Id let the belt drop another two inches, its riding REALLY high on you. hit everything with Montana Gold olive green so it all matches. yeah new gloves are stiff. I mow laws and drive with new gloves. I used oil ONCE on a pair of gloves. They became rock hard. Ill never oil a glove again. I break them in with sweat and work!

agreed! were ready to get thsi big show on the road. The E11 would be a option of the soft costume only without armor since we break out everything into tabbed galleries, we can just add it to only "that" tabbed gallery. Looking forward to all of it and seeing this complete and out to the Legion for use.

no further updates? Ok, then heres what Im going to propose we write. Thisisnt much, but is copied from the FISD CRL. For edification, here is the FSD R1 blaster reference page: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41271-rogue-one-e-11-blaster-reference/ R1 E-11 proposal V1.0 E-11 Blaster Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor". Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

Jeez, its been THAT LONG since I got in here! These 20 hour work days are killing me, literally. OK, so, whats next? we were talking about the blaster......

ive heard a lot about darkside closet, keep us up to date!

The art does not depict these thicker belts, I have one, and when I was developing the CRL for this (I am the First in Legion and CRL model for this) I decided against it. However, there is no weight on the belt other than the pouches, and my problem has always been that the harness slides all over with no actual weight to hold it in place. You may try padding like a ladies shoulder pad, its like a soft bra pad, inside where your affected shoulder is

Keep the updates comining!

Hello Cyprian Lets get your Trooper into the Specialist prorgram. Overall you look good on quick pass, but we will need detailed shots of each component as well as measuremnts of your goggle straps, your TU on your helmet and a lot more detailed photos here is the link to the program The "Specialist" Program - 501st SpecOps (specops501st.com)