Blackwatch

it cracks, thats just a feature of paint being applied to a leather or fabric item. You can weather it wth mud if you like.

From looking at the sheer simplicity of this thing that is certainly possible, to just add a keychain split ring while you are building the baton, right in the middle and just hang it off the belt hook. That said, take a look at the picture. I have just rewatched that scene a dozen times. When the first troopers charge the guy with Marva's stone, their batons swing in their restraint. If you look at the left side of the belt at the reference picture at the top you will see what looks like one of those clips you hold a broom up with when you want to mount it to the wall. Run that scene back and forth-that clip is mounted to the troopers belt and it moves with him. Perhaps its not commercial, perhaps its 3d modeled and printed in TPU for flexibilty. But its certainly a clip of some sort. Something along the lines of this . The af facing belt boxes really are strange. Curious if he has any in front.

The Patrol Trooper uses this baton. They look the same but the Security trooper does not seem to have the stem letting the mushroom head (likely a utility or appliance foot) protrude much past the foam handle. You do get a look at it on the hip of the trooper grabbing the guy holding the Stone in the holstered configuration, and during the riot scene the aluminum internal part is fully extended. You do see one laying on the ground with the silver internal tube extended. Its likely the best view of the whole thing. PVC pipe wrapped in neoprene with a sliding end-capped internal tube? Yeah. Id say so.

i agree the weathering on this is NOT brown. Here in South Louisiana we have clay and it comes in two colors, grey or yellow. When the two are mixed after a weekend of mudding you get a brownishg slurry but thats not what this is, This was likely a weathering spray. I have both in my backyard as it was fill when the house was built. So we definitely want to see grey weathering on the boots and splats on the armor such as the shins. We'll change the text to iclude the prism shape, I noted that when I printed mine out that its not a pyaramid. I have wondered what the origin of the buckles were, interesting they were off a MB seat. My buckles are from different sources and are defintely not the same file used to create it, or perhaps one set was cast off a original since it was clearly cast whlie others were printed. Ill check my own stuff. when we get time for photos for the CRL we will need detailed photos of the differences in the buckles for our Gallery view Ok so lets take a look here: Shins proposal V1.1 Shins The shin plates (greaves) attach directly to the front of the boots wearers' shin using two flexible rubber straps that thread through the back of the greaves. Each strap affixes on the outer edge of the boot via a cam style buckle. The rubber straps are ribbed and equal in size. Straps extend from each buckle and the inner side of the greaves. A "T" shaped knee plate is affixed to both greaves that may appear to angle slightly away from the knee. The "T" shaped plate features a slightly curved rectangle feature that follows the upper edge. The rectangle is raised. Two triangular prism-shaped ‘knuckles’ are evident beneath the "T" shaped knee plate. The top and bottom facets are longer than the side facets. The greaves feature vertical indents and recessed rectangles that should match the reference image. The bottom of the greaves angle outward to follow the curvature of the boot/foot. Shins are painted matte olive gray with heavy weathering. to match the armor and are weathered to match the boots. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shin buckle shape is different than the shoulder buckles. The rear lever bar is shorter with a more distinct curve. Green color is similar to Pantone 350U overlaid with Pantone 433U. Rubber straps are approx. 1.5” (40mm) wide. For clarity Ill repost the Boot final text here, but Im going to add a line about weathering , since all of these boots are at a minimum moderately weathered. Boot proposal V.2.0 (FINAL) Boot rises to no higher than mid-shin, and is leather or a leather-like material. There are no laces, decorative stitches, embellishments or buckles on the instep. If seams are present they are at the rear only. A single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot may be present. The buckle is no wider than 1" (25.4mm). This need not be functional. Strap adjustment buckle is dingy gunmetal color, or dingy grey. It shall not be shiny / chrome. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable as long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by a vinyl or leather strip, it is painted black. The boot is weathered, moderately to heavily. Weathering is grey in color matching references. For basic approval the soles may feature a more agressive tread. German Bundesmarine Navy Sea Boots (or authentic replica) are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (If applicable): Boots are made of leather German Knobelbecher Bundesmarine or Knobelbecher Bundeswehr style, accurate in hieght and design. Sole must be a lower profile, with no hobnails, modest tread and modest heel. The rear flap does not extend lower than one-third the height of the boot shaft. Rectangular reinforcement stiching does not have an "X" stitched into the rectangle. I believe we are close to finishing the basics of the Security trooper. We still have some items left, primarily the baton and its holder, and Im quite certain thats a commercial item.

looks like the snow parkas we had when I was in the army.

We have a few bits left plus the soft parts got some additions not seen on the Aldhani troopers that we can tackle. Boots portion of the final CRL text has been updated on the first page. Looking at the shins, we can finish the armor and move to the accessies- Baton and E10.5 and then the radio backpack for the soft costume. If we take a look at the Mudtrooper as well as the ICAT DRIVER CRLs they are virtually the same except for the color. There is a bit of room for improvement here. Original Mudtrooper text, per the CRL: Shins - Version One, Version Two, Version Three The shin plates (greaves) attach directly to the front of the boots using two rubber straps that thread through the back of the greaves. Each strap affixes on the outer edge of the boot via a cam style buckle. The rubber straps are ribbed and equal in size. Straps extend from each buckle and the inner side of the greaves. A "T" shaped knee plate is affixed to both greaves that may appear to angle slightly away from the knee. The "T" shaped plate features a slightly curved rectangle feature that follows the upper edge. The rectangle is raised. Two triangular ‘knuckles’ are evident beneath the "T" shaped knee plate. The greaves feature vertical indents and recessed rectangles that should match the reference image. The bottom of the greaves angle outward to follow the curvature of the boot/foot. Shins are painted matte olive gray with heavy weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Green color is similar to Pantone 350U overlaid with Pantone 433U. Rubber straps are approx. 1.5” (40mm) wide. Text Proposal Shins V1.0 Shins - Version One, Version Two, Version Three The shin plates (greaves) attach directly to the front of the boots using two rubber straps that thread through the back of the greaves. Each strap affixes on the outer edge of the boot via a cam style buckle. The rubber straps are ribbed and equal in size. Straps extend from each buckle and the inner side of the greaves. A "T" shaped knee plate is affixed to both greaves that may appear to angle slightly away from the knee. The "T" shaped plate features a slightly curved rectangle feature that follows the upper edge. The rectangle is raised. Two triangular ‘knuckles’ are evident beneath the "T" shaped knee plate. The greaves feature vertical indents and recessed rectangles that should match the reference image. The bottom of the greaves angle outward to follow the curvature of the boot/foot. Shins are painted matte olive gray with heavy weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Green color is similar to Pantone 350U overlaid with Pantone 433U. Rubber straps are approx. 1.5” (40mm) wide.

wow has it been ten days already. i got real busy there for a minute. Ok back to this. There hasnt been further comment or discusson so I believe we are in agreement that this style of boot will be a better fit for us than the traditional Jack. Ill continue to look on Ebay for these in larger sizes. Boot proposal V.2.0 (FINAL) Boot rises to no higher than mid-shin, and is leather or a leather-like material. There are no laces, decorative stitches, embellishments or buckles on the instep. If seams are present they are at the rear only. A single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot may be present. The buckle is no wider than 1" (25.4mm). This need not be functional. Strap adjustment buckle is dingy gunmetal color, or dingy grey. It shall not be shiny / chrome. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable as long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by a vinyl or leather strip, it is painted black. For basic approval the soles may feature a more agressive tread. German Bundesmarine Navy Sea Boots (or authentic replica) are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (If applicable): Boots are made of leather German Knobelbecher Bundesmarine or Knobelbecher Bundeswehr style, accurate in hieght and design. Sole must be a lower profile, with no hobnails, modest tread and modest heel. The rear flap does not extend lower than one-third the height of the boot shaft. Rectangular reinforcement stiching does not have an "X" stitched into the rectangle.

Javi your best bet is to get all of your web gear put together and paint it all the same shade. Thas what I did with mine. I used Montana Gold Army green for everything, it all matches. Looking for L2 spec Im not so concerned about whehter or not its a USMC coverall- as long as its a single shade of green. For my Impeiral Medic Trooper I went to a suit maker and he made me a suit entiredly from scratch out of olive green fabric. Thats an option too.

no one has answered this so Im assuming that no one has. When you pull the files into your slicer do they look accurate compared to the CRL images?

Ive got some things to deal with here at work this morning,then Ill circle back to this.

mine seem long, too. I have wondered if the bottoms were cut off, but you would also need to alter the bottom of the bevel.

come to think of it I think I yanked mine out and got some welding sheild and replaced it. The pair of ESSS goggles (or knockoff thereof) I got came with a bunch of lenses including amber, clear and black, so I just swapped it. put your goggles on your helmet, take a pic outisde in natural light and see how they look mounted.

ok thanks thats exactly what I needed to know. Under the forearms t seems like the jacket would bunch up. my snowtrooper arms are only half-arms but even then with the fabric duster closing can be difficult.

ok, im gong to take another stab at this. I dont feel that we are rushing anything, since Im averaging a week when I can get back in to comment, so I certainly do not feel or see a rush to development in this process, as we are spending pages discussing each item. I have never seen a boot like this before. I certainly would nt know where to get one since Keep Trooping has refused to make them in my size (13 extra wide) because he does not have a form for a boot that size. That said, that limits what I person CAN get off of Ebay, which leaves us back at the same situation we have been in since I joined this club in 2008, expecially for those of us born with really big, really wide feet and 24 inch calves; we get what we can , that fits. I have spent almost 1,000 dollar on boots this year alone, all custom made, and each has been a HUGE gamble if it will fit when i get it trough the mail from overseas. its up to each costume bilder to build to the accuracy level they prefer. So, given what WE HAVE available to us now, a mid calf boot is going to look very differnt on me than on several of the people I troop with because Im taller than them. Its still a mid calf boot at the end of the day, but it varies, whethere it lands on the shin, or the calf. The boot is the boot, make the way the manufacturer made it. So, lets look at this proposal. Honestly Ive lost count so Im going to rename this : Boot propsal V.2.0 Boot rises to no higher than mid-shin, and is leather or leather lke material. There are no laces, decorative stitches, embellishments or buckles on the instep. If seams are present they are at the rear only. A single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot may be present. The buckle is no wider than 1" (25.4mm). This need not be functional. Strap adjustment buckle is dingy gunmetal color, or dingy grey. It shall not be shiny/ chrome. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable as long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by a vinyl or leather strip, it is painted black. For basic approval the soles may feature a more agressive tread. German Bundesmarine Navy Sea Boots (or authentic replica) are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (If applicable): Boots are made of leather German Knobelbecher Bundesmarine or Knobelbecher Bundeswehr style, accurate in hieght and design. Sole must be a lower profile, with no hobnails, modest tread and modest heel. The rear flap does not extend lower than one-third the hieght of the boot shaft. Rectangular reinforcement stiching does not have an "X" stitched into the rectangle.

are the biceps going to be flexible? are you holding them together so they can move with your arm as they move? I just got a set of WTF armor and if you are doing that I am curious how you are doing it. Were youre straps made black or did you need to paint them black?

get some padding in there it looks awfully large, look at my goggles, they are square like and angled with dark lenses. Not seeing anything wrong with the goggles. Strap is correct grey/green for L2, jus take off the cover.

This has been an educational discussion I have a new set of crowprops boots , coming off of 16 inch tall Engineer boots which fell apart after being re-soled a couple of times, and going to these, they ARE smaller but I can tell they are taller than what was used on screen for pilots and crew. I have big , wide feet, so buying any sort of authentic boot has been a no go since I joined in 2008. Buying boots and hoping they fit has also been a gamble when dealing with a vendor. To get an accurate boot , either by sourcing a accurate boot online (If you can) the other option is to convince the makers to create an accurae boot to begin with. it doesnt seem like there has been much inclination on their part to do so, otherwise they wouuld have already been making a boot accurate to the both both in design and in height compared to references.

Its under review by staff at this time.

yeah thats exactly what i was thinking. For ICAT troopers its supposed to be a tall boot that goes to under the knee and the top of the shin guard stops at the top of the boot. So, if this is truly a shorter boot, and I believe it is based on the images in the reference gallery The top strap of the shin armor is well above the top of the boot. The boots on film have a smooth sole, we can make that a L2 requirement, while lug soles such as your should be fine for approval, with text to match.

Our next point will be the boots, and the attached grieve/ shin armor. From the Andor Trooper CRL: Boots Calf high black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. If seams are present on the shaft, they are at the rear only. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1" (25.4mm). This need not be functional. Jackboot buckles should not be shiny/can be painted dingy grey or gun-metal color. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. German “jack boot” style boots are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather. So lets talk about the boots, and talk about the actual photo we are using on the Imperial Andor Trooper, are we using the correct graphic for that?

Thanks for sharing these Calum. Its nice to see the variant. Now that I have lost so much weight I want to add that to my kit. You look good alongside the Andor version.

Ok, Il leave it up a couple more days just for openness and transarency for any other input then we can clear and lock. Editing my post from two days ago, here is the final revision: Final Version V 1.1 Gloves Black gloves made of smooth leather or leather-like material. Gloves shall have all logos removed. There is no decorative stitching on the gloves. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall have a U-shaped adjustment at the wrist. Dents brand gloves or accurate replica of Dents gloves. Belt Belt is construction from a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) to the wearers left from the buckle. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5⁄8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1⁄8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with a Rogue One type Code Disk without grooves at the center. The belt is worn above the top of the lower pocket flap top edge. The belt features two boxes, one on either side of the buckle. The boxes are Rogue One style boxes, the dimensions are approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall x 2" (50.8mm) wide, x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Boxes shall be painted to match the armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at top and bottom edge of the belt along its length. Belt boxes are smaller than Rogue One boxes, being 2.5" (67mm) tall x 1.75" wide (45mm) x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Belt boxes feature a pill shaped indentation at the top of the box.

Proposal V.1.1 We know the belt boxes are not olive grey they are black and match the armor. Ill make that adjustment here. Honestly not a lo to stay about the gloves at this point. Belt The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) to the wearers left from the buckle. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5⁄8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1⁄8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with a Rogue One type Code Disk without grooves at the center. The belt is worn above the top of the lower pocket flap top edge. The belt features two boxes, one on either side of the buckle. The boxes are Rogue One style boxes, the dimensions are approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall x 2" (50.8mm) wide, x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Boxes shall be painted olive grey or gunmetal with a flat finish. to match the armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at top and bottom edge of the belt along its length. Belt boxes are smaller than Rogue One boxes, being 2.5" (67mm) tall x 1.75" wide (45mm) x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Belt boxes feature a pill shaped indentation at the top of the box.

With biceps and shoulders done Id like to look at the belt and the gloves at the same time Here is the original text from the Andor Trooper CRL as published.: Proposal v.1: Gloves Black gloves made of smooth leather or leather-like material. Gloves shall have all logos removed. There is no decorative stitching on the gloves. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall have a U-shaped adjustment at the wrist. Dents brand gloves or accurate replica of Dents gloves. Belt The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) to the wearers left from the buckle. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5⁄8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1⁄8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with a Rogue One type Code Disk without grooves at the center. The belt is worn above the top of the lower pocket flap top edge. The belt features two boxes, one on either side of the buckle. The boxes are Rogue One style boxes, the dimensions are approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall x 2" (50.8mm) wide, x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Boxes shall be painted olive grey or gunmetal with a flat finish. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at top and bottom edge of the belt along its length. Belt boxes are smaller than Rogue One boxes, being 2.5" (67mm) tall x 1.75" wide (45mm) x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Belt boxes feature a pill shaped indentation at the top of the box.

its been a few days and no further input, Im going to lock this , and update the first page with the text as stated above. So, here is our Final for Shoulders and Biceps: Shoulder Armor Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted to match the armor and helmet. Shoulders are mounted to the shoulder strap via a 1" (25.4mm) up to 2" (50mm) webbing strap. Bicep Armor For basic approval a one piece bicep is permitted. The bicep may appear "open" or split as seen on screen. Cover strips will appear on the front and back, covering joints if present. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip inset into the top of the bevel. Cover strips may be as deep as 1/2" ( 12.7mm) and up to 7/8" (23.5mm) in width, beveled on all four sides. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. OPTIONAL: Level Two: Biceps are two piece design, with the halves held together with hidden flexible cord, and shall remain flexible.