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Everything posted by Darth Emphatic
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Memory´s WIP: Shadow Stormtrooper full stealth
Darth Emphatic replied to RhianDeGirondel's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
I am a big fan of clear and straight on the shadow -
I have updated the first post with the most up-to-date CRL text as it appears in this thread. As changes need to be made, I can go in and update the text. I feel we have a solid CRL here. We will need photo references for everything before the CRL can be posted, so if possible, for anyone with completed pieces as listed in the CRL, please post your pictures of them. If you have white background pictures, that will be great. If not, I can trim what you have. We'll need fairly high res photos so it's not usually good to try and take a full length picture and chop it up. Once someone has a full one complete, even if we have the CRL text complete, a lack of photos would hold up having the CRL posted.
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Death Trooper Helmet - Scratch Build (Studio 49)
Darth Emphatic replied to Studio 49's topic in Imperial Death Trooper
Wow. This is looking amazing. I hope you do make buckets -
CRL and approved accessories questions
Darth Emphatic replied to NoJohns's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
I think you are probably seeing a lot of sfter approval add ons that either the local garrison are allowing or they are at open events. For clarification, black is the answer. Black tube stripes and black pauldron. -
Yep. Everyone stop reading my mind.
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BBB has arrived with my shadow trooper
Darth Emphatic replied to daz0128's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Yep, that will fine and you dont have to paint the traps if you dont want. -
BBB has arrived with my shadow trooper
Darth Emphatic replied to daz0128's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
My recommendation is the only decals on the bucket are the tube stripes. The most common combos are either black all around (black vodocer, frown, and lesnses) or silver all around (same as above). As for the traps, you can leave them gloss or go with a matte black paint. -
I find that to be the best strategy
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Finally got around to doing the Weir Boxes!
Darth Emphatic replied to Chef's topic in Spec Ops Scout Armory
Awesome! -
Rogue One Death Trooper Research/Build Thread
Darth Emphatic replied to mitcheg1's topic in Imperial Death Trooper
Welcome, Greg. That looks like the beginning of something great. -
Very nice. Looking forward to your build!
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And, forum setup...and, this thread moved into it I'd welcome someone starting a CRL thread and a separate photo reference thread to start things.
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Most definitely. Ill get a forum setup for it. Also, once setup, we'll want a photo reference thread created and please post all those photos from the con.
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Check trooper bay.
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There has to be an official source for the color combination you want to use, which means licensed by Lucas. That can be a comic, a statue, or, soon coming, film. Action figures are notoriously inaccurate and not used without other supporting references. Your safest bet is all silver or all black. Silver chin, teeth and, lense. Or black chin, teeth, and lenses.
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Child's Blackhole/Shadow Troopers Armor
Darth Emphatic replied to kennethmterry's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Walt's a good guy and spends some time on these forums. -
Star Wars Battlefront: Phase 0 Darktrooper
Darth Emphatic replied to oota goota's topic in Dark Troopers
Just post replies in the crl thread and we'll discuss and I can edit the main crl body. -
Star Wars Battlefront: Phase 0 Darktrooper
Darth Emphatic replied to oota goota's topic in Dark Troopers
Here we go: http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/4155-star-wars-battlefront-phase-0-dark-trooper-crl-discussion/ -
Thanks for the legwork on this from retrofire. First draft: Phase Zero dark troopers were the result of the Galactic Empire's Dark Trooper Phase Zero Project and the predecessors of Imperial Dark troopers. Unlike the latter they were not fully droids, but actually aged clone troopers, transformed into cyborgs. The Phase Zero dark troopers were created in the early years of the Empire to deal with a shortage of experienced troops. The program was overseen by then-Lieutenant Rom Mohc and was based on the Empirical, a hidden space station in the Dominus system. He called the program the Dark Trooper Phase Zero. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet For 501st approval: Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They may be flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are: black, smoke, dark green, or silver. The body of the "ears" may be black or gray. The bars have three or four bumps and may be left the same color as the body or painted black. The frown must have either 6 or 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable colors are: black, gray or silver. If there are spaces between the teeth the wearer's face must not be seen The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These may be hand painted or decals. There does not need to be the same number per side. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) may be black or silver. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening maybe silver or black. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) may be: hand painted, decals. Acceptable colors are: black or gray. Rear traps and tears may have vertical black lines. Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit For 501st approval: Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Shoulder Straps For 501st approval: These must be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. Shoulder Armor For 501st approval: One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Upper Arm Armor For 501st approval: Biceps are fully closed. Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Forearms must appear to be fully sealed and enclosed. Hand Plates For 501st approval: Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material but must remain glossy. Gloves For 501st approval: Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Chest Armor For 501st approval: Chest armor overlaps the abdominal armor. Back Armor For 501st approval: Back plate contains a "O II" design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. Abdomen Armor For 501st approval: The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 gloss black buttons, approximately 7/16" in diameter. Kidney Armor For 501st approval: A single kidney/ posterior armor piece is acceptable. If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor. The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. Posterior Armor For 501st approval: A single kidney/ posterior armor piece is acceptable. If a separate posterior plate is used, it lines up below the bottom of the belt with with the abdomen armor. There is a minimal gap between the posterior and and kidney armor. Belt For 501st approval: Belt face is made of plastic (ammo belt). It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end. Belt proper may be made from glossy black ABS or a similar shiny material and must be 3 to 3.5" wide. Black canvas or similar heavy material may also be used. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is an all black cylinder 2 to 2.5" in diameter with black end caps and a black control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap. Holster For 501st approval: Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material. Holster is worn on the left. Holster may be attached to the belt from behind with rivets, or with loops covering the outside of the belt. Thigh Armor For 501st approval: The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. Lower Leg Armor For 501st approval: The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. Boots For 501st approval: Black leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodphur-type boots or an equivalent style. All stitching must be black, and unnecessary or decorative stitching must not be present. Elvis / Mariachi boots are not acceptable. White, or other color boots may be painted black so long as the boots are maintained to remain the proper color. Jump Pack For 501st approval: A jump pack was an aerial transportation device that rocketed the user into the air for about 2 seconds before slowly descending back onto the ground. Unlike jetpacks, jump packs did not allow for maximum mobility or control in the air, although the user could control where they landed in a certain area as they fell. Need more information here Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. ARC Caster (Modified E-11 Blaster) For 501st approval: This weapon used a charge function to prepare a blast of electricity at the target which, when fully charged, could affect up to four other targets. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. [*]A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. [*]D-ring mounted on the rear. [*]Correct style scope. [*]Two power cylinders on the magazine. [*]Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). SE-14r Light Repeating Blaster For 501st approval: The SE-14r, sometimes referred to as the Imperial repeating pistol, was an upgrade of the standard BlasTech Industries SE-14 blaster pistol, produced for Imperial officers, stormtroopers, pilots, and other crew. It was considered a backup weapon to the standard-issue E-11 blaster rifle. Need information For level two certification (if applicable): Need information DC-17 Hand Blaster For 501st approval: The DC-17 hand blaster was a blaster pistol wielded by the clone troopers of the Galactic Republic during the Clone Wars. The DC-17 hand blaster was most notably used by ARC trooper captains, clone trooper commanders, and clone jet troopers. It shared many similarities with the DC-15s side arm blaster used by clone commandos. Need information For level two certification (if applicable): Need information
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Star Wars Battlefront: Phase 0 Darktrooper
Darth Emphatic replied to oota goota's topic in Dark Troopers
Awesome first draft. I am going to move the CRL discussion to it's own thread so this one can be used as a build thread. Ill post a link once it is up. -
Correct! Sorry, I wasnt more specific.
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TD should be all black. Chin cup is not required for approval. No fish hook allowed.
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Great first fitting. I think general sizing could be improved on the tube like pieces (forearms, biceps, etc.). Sometimes photos can be deceiving. For instance, perhaps you have Lou Farrigno forearms and they need to be that big to fit . If not, getting them tightened up a bit more will help your look. Mine are glued and I can barely slide my hand in, but the fit is good. Also, add some foam padding on the inside in the skinnier areas. If you think about it, your wrist is typically skinnier than your forearm so it tilts the armor piece to the common resting spot on your wrist and forearm, which creates an odd angle. Padding just inside rhe wrist will keep it even and not looking off angle. You want the srmor tight enough to still get on, but try to avoid big gaps.
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Looks very nice. It's funny, whatever is in the reflection almost looks like battle damage.
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Congrats! I just updated your profile to a spec ops members.