Fivezero

Sounds good then! I'll get everything up to date tonight and post some thoughts on weapons!

Sounds great, thanks guys! I’ll get the main post updated when I get home later today. All clear on the shin armor and the boots? Just to make sure, if so I’ll get those finalized too.

Yep that’s exactly what I’m thinking, ROTJ or ANH sculpt allowable. But with the two square button covers, all for L1. Then for L2 have the specific TFU-style sculpt with the longer ends, angled boxes and the specific cuts on the ends. This is why I was wondering if we should it open it up for basic (allow three covers) and then move the two covers on the end, none in the middle, over to L2. Or just keep it as is and add the additional clarification for L2. I’m split either way, and my belt is all TFU, so it doesn’t matter to me. So whatever you guys think would work best.

Alright keeping this moving. So my thoughts on TFU belts in general are that the regular, available belts are good for L1, and the specific TFU style belts for L2 (this applies to the EVOs, Shadow Stormtrooper and this guy). So going forward, I'm only tweaking the pouch & thigh descriptions, sound about right? Leaving the shins & boots as is? Here's everything that changed, if we're all in agreement I'll get the main post updated. Belt The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with two square buttons on each end of the belt. The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 2” to 3” (50-75mm) wide. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor. Two white pouches hang on either side of the belt face. Each pouch features two sections with a single flap covering both sections. The right pouch is 6-1/4” (160mm) tall by 4-1/2” (115mm) wide by 2” (50mm) deep. The left pouch is 8-5/8” (220mm) tall by 6-1/8” (155mm) wide by 2” (50mm) deep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The ammo belt shall have longer ends than standard TK-style belts. The 6 rectangular boxes are angled on each side. The corners of the white plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed with a small angle at the top and a large sweeping curve that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. The canvas belt must be 2” (50mm) wide. The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. The front cover strips are approximately 2” to 2-1/2” (50mm to 65mm) and run the length of the thigh. Rear cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge. An additional ridge is present on the outside of the thighs, running to the lower ridge. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. The front cover strips shall have an angled cut that meets at a sharp point at the top of the thigh.

So this happened... First test fit! Gotta add some more straps to keep the chest plate in check. Forearms need a little more massaging, bit too tight for me to get my hands in/out. Right thigh needs a little help and the expected shins rotating (just a little Velcro after I get the boots together to fix that). Overall though, it felt great! LOVE the mobility in the arms, way comfier than regular TK arms. Still got lots to do, but I'm getting there.

Alright, here's my response @RAIDER. 1. Belt - Pouch gap, basically just trying to say that there is a seam (maybe that's a better word) between the two sections. Or if you want, I can remove this and let the pictures do the talking. Here a picture of the model for the belt showing the end cuts. Square buttons - I have for L1 that there are "two square buttons on each end of the belt." Do you want me to move this to L2 and add a further clarification that there is no button in the middle? Or just leave it and add the clarification? 2. Thighs - Will move the strip cut over to L2. 3. Knee plates - Was kinda iffy on this to be honest, since the line just fades away. Here's a shot what I'm basing this off of. Also the EVO Trooper uses the same knee plates (minus the holes) and those have the trim. So I guess it was also for some commonality. 4. Boots - I haven't made the boots up yet, that's the big task this week. Honestly what I wrote is my best guess, this one has some room for interpretation. I figured having two flaps would looks better/more interesting. Here's the current plan for the boots with some scraps (don't worry they'll be properly shaped when I get to it). I plan to dye these white, and will probably leave the white "flap" unweathered or polish it up to give it some contrast with the rest of the boot.

I'm heading out to run some errands right now, will take a look and post my response later tonight!

Alright guys, everything has been updated up to the belt. Just the belt, thighs, shins and boots to go! I'll try to get something written this weekend for the weapons as well as some flavor text.

Sorry guys, been busy the last couple days... Will get the main post up-to-date tomorrow so we can keep plugging along.

Hey, thanks @Blackwatch! I don't mind the simple molds, they're pretty easy, but the big jacket molds for helmet those I hate doing! As for material, I use a localish company here in Michigan, Specialty Resin. Never had a problem with any of their products and they have a simple catalog (i.e. one type of silicone mold rubber, basically choose the durometer, same for the casting resins) . They're also about an hour and a half away, so I usually get everything next day. So anyway, how about an update? Got the shins and thighs together and started forming the shin ammo belt. Also glued some extra plastic to give it some depth (yes those are artillery shells that I'm using to hold the belt's shape). Still needs some work before I call it done and mount it. So here's the progress on the thighs. Got them glued together and started to mark them to trim the unique cut on the Jumptrooper thighs. And then I cut them! The front cover strips, in addition to being wider, are much thicker than standard cover strips, so I layered some spare plastic together to build up the thickness. This is actually about a 1/4" thinner than what the 3D model measures at, but anything more and it looked goofy. I'm happy with how it turned out. After that it was on to the rear cover strip, nothing crazy here. After that, the side ridges... Again not too bad, but had to slightly deviate again from what the game shows. The model shows the ridge meeting in the center of the sharp point of the bottom ridge. But the model shape is not exactly the same shape as real armor, so I moved it back and instead preserved the spacing so it sits at just about 90° from the front. And finally, went out and got some epoxy putty (JB Weld) to clean up the sides of the front cover strip and blend the side ridges to the bottom ridge. I'm getting there, but still have plenty to do! Going to try to get it together enough for a quick photo this weekend!

1. Ab buttons - I copied 9 buttons for commonality, technically TFU troopers have 10 total. Took another look at the model and removed that black plate. There is another button on the left side (as you're wearing it), and a tiny hint of a button in the center. Unfortunately they removed some geometry under this plate, so we gotta make something up. If full geometry was there, we would probably see the usual 5 on the center plate, and the TFU 5 button row on the left side. 2. Cod Plate - Basically I'm try to say "it isn't a standard TK cod." I agree it needs to be reworded. Maybe remove any mention of it, let the pictures do the talking? 3. Small Plate - A smaller, angular plate is mounted on the top of the main abdomen plate. The small plate is flat black in color and features 12 holes 1” (25mm) in diameter. The plate partially obscures the top of the button areas, covering the top buttons. The chest armor partially overlaps this plate. 4. Kidney/Posterior - Sounds good to me, so like this? OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The kidney and posterior armor shall be two separate pieces. (ANH style). I'll get the main post updated with the torso armor/jet pack after we agree on this set.

Alright here's my couple notes, like I said overall looks great! 1. Stripes.... So I debated this for awhile when I was modelling/working on the pack. Ultimately I decided having raised bands similar to the forearms would be the way to go. I was worried that the pack would look flat/off with painted on stripes. Somethings just don't translate the same in real life. Also there is not much detail on the pack, so having raised bands would bring some dimension/depth to the pack. This would also be a tie in with the look of the forearms. Just a warning, I will argue this. 2. "The white part of the rocket housings go down at approximately a 45 degree angle." On the original model, this is actually three separate angles, which tells me it's a curve (I know you said approximately). The curve starts out sharp and ends a bit shallower than how it began. We should change this to reflect this curved cut. 2. "A gray stripe, approximately ¾” (20mm) wide, runs around the upper part of each cap" This is supposed to be midway on the housing. Here's a quick picture with my understanding of the pack. 3. "There is the presence of a seam midway around each rocket housing." See gray band above ^ 4. "There is a seam that runs vertically on each exhaust nozzle in the center and is viewable from behind." To me this doesn't look intentional, this is probably the result of poor stitching of the texture on the model and the low resolution of the model itself. I don't believe it should not be represented in real life. You can see the same effect on the rear of the helmet. This game can be funky. So those are my thoughts, I can delve more into "Fivezero's Theory on Video Game Troopers" if needed. Again thanks Icytrooper! Fantastic write-up, much better than my first draft.

Thanks @IcyTrooper! Overall looks great! I do have a couple notes I’ll post when I get home, though.

Yeah that's what I was thinking, shoulder joins are smooth. But I agree, let's keep it simple and get rid of any mention of no seams/gaps. How's this? "Top of the chest plate, at the shoulder, must be flush with the back plate."

Yeah wasn't sure if we wanted to add anything on the chest/back being flush. I say we make it L2 for sure. Here's the revised text. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. These are white in color with the two front raised details being painted black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): These shall be glued in front, and must free float in the back. The shoulder straps must be thin enough to show the chest and back armor on either side. Chest Armor Chest armor, white in color, overlaps the abdominal armor. A rectangular plate protrudes from the central raised section of the chest armor. A stepped hose port, gray in color, is mounted on the front rectangular plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. Chest tube is mounted slightly off center to the left of the chest plate. Chest plate must be flush with the back plate, with no visible seams or gaps. - Do we want to mention anything about seams/gaps? Back Armor OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. The raised section must feature inset rectangular detailing matching reference photos. Back plate must be flush with the chest plate, with no visible seams or gaps. - Do we want to mention anything about seams/gaps? Chest Hose - I settled on gray as it looks lighter than the chest tube it attaches to. Maybe go with a dark gray here?

Hey, was just about to post a summary, beat me to it! 1. Shoulder Straps - I was going to say we can make them gray or black, sound good? "These are white in color with the two front raised details being painted either gray or flat black." 2. Shoulders - I'm good with equal spacing for L1 and exact spacing for L2. One on each shoulder, flat black in color, featuring 26 holes that are approximately 1” (25mm) in diameter. The holes are arranged in 6 columns with four holes in the first two and last two columns and 5 holes in the two center columns. The holes can be equally spaced from each other. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The holes must be spaced matching the reference images. - I can make a layout with this spacing when I get around to taking pictures, if you guys think that would help. 3. Forearms - I called them straps, cause that's what I called them on the EVO Trooper. I see what you're saying though, how about this: "Two flat, raised ridges approximately 1” (25mm) wide are present around the forearm." 4. Neck Seal - I'm cool with making it optional. Definitely need to add a balaclava though. Stole this from the TIE Pilot CRL. Balaclava A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair.

Yep I can definitely get more shots @RAIDER! What we have is all the Novas that I've been able to find. Originally we only had the two gold Novas and me being a SWG player, I ended finding both the Medic and later the Sentinel and bringing those into the Legion. As far as I know/remember here's every Spec Ops trooper in that game (yep I did a lot of looking around years ago). Troopers with CRLs: Shadow Stormtrooper - numerous pauldron colors if I remember correctly Shadow Scout/Storm Commando Novatrooper Novatrooper Elite (TCG only) Novatrooper Medic Novatrooper Sentinel Swamp Trooper (Scout based) Still to be made: Assault Trooper - Novatrooper but with white armor Shocktrooper -Plain, Blue Stripes, Sgt. Snopel Forest Trooper - two variants -one TK based, the other Scout based Phase II Darktroopers under various names Phase III Darktrooper under various names Dark Novatrooper - Phase II Darktrooper with black armor and dark purple stripes I think that's it! I can try and get more pictures of anything on this list.

I do still have SWG and the Legends launcher, you need me to hop in and take some new screenshots?

So got the parts on Monday, been awhile since I've gotten a box of armor! Started trimming and getting the straps made up. The torso is basically all put together now. Started strapping the shoulder and biceps this morning. And the big task for today is getting the leg armor together!

Shoulder Straps - I definitely lean to flat black, here's another shot. This is the problem with this game, you can shift to one angle and it looks gray, another and its black. In general, it looks darker than what we can definitively say is gray such as the helmet and chest hose port. Shoulders- Sure, sounds good. Wasn't sure how detailed you guys wanted to get regarding the spacing. Basically, it's going to be a big section if we do, or I need to make up a layout or something. The spacing is funky and not a nice even "1 inch between holes." Let me know what you guys want to do and I can get something made or written up. Forearms - Yep, those gray lines are basically "shadow" for the straps. The straps aren't physically there on the model, but those shadows create depth. It's the same as the edge trim on the torso armor or the detail on the hand plates. It's being represented by a line "painted" on the model to create an illusion that something is there. Here's a couple shots of my forearms, showing the real world look. This will get enhanced by weathering of course. Neck Seal - Just checked and there's not one. I just threw it on there for commonality with other troopers. Doesn't matter to me either way.

Whatever works best for you @RAIDER! Let me know and I can get them sent off.

Kinda looks like it to me! And yes the other Novas would follow suit, maybe with the exception of the Elite. Just took a look in my SWG screenshot vault, here's what I dug up. They all have the same texture (i.e. weathering in the same spots on the armor) with the only difference being the stripe color and the silver frown for the Sentinel.

Sounds good! Great catch on the hose, forgot I wanted to add the 3/4". I'll get everything updated in a sec!

Ah i see what you guys are saying about the teeth, sorry been an exhausting week (the brain's a bit worn out....). Just to make sure, here's what I'm writing for the helmet. Changes/additions in red. Thanks guys! Helmet Single piece lens must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. It can be either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke or dark green. A gray stripe runs below the lens. This can be painted or a decal. The nostrils are black in color. The frown must have 4 to 6 teeth cut out and any gray coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The indents at the bottom of the frown are black. The valleys on each side of the helmet are painted black. The lower tube stripes are gray in color and number 4 per side. These can be either hand painted or decals. The tube stripes connect to longer stripes running to the rear of the helmet and curve up to meet with the valleys. The upper cheek on each side features 2 vertical black bars that are rounded at the top. The rear bar is slightly taller than the front. The ears feature two black pointed details. These can be either hand painted or decals. The "power cells" (boxes sticking out from the cheeks) consist of two smaller boxes with rounded corners and recessed at the top. A black stripe runs around each of the smaller boxes. The power cell housings are recessed for the power cells and feature gray stripes running around them. The aerators are tan, and screening must be silver. The interior of the aerator can either be white or tan. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) are gray and can be hand painted or decals. A red stripe is offset to the left side of the helmet and runs towards the rear of the dome. The stripe is approximately 1/2” (13mm) wide. Two small red symbols are present next to the dome stripe. The visor is attached with gray domed fasteners in the middle of the front traps. The visor attachment tab should be slightly smaller than the traps allowing the traps to be partially visible. The visor has gray stripes on each side, running horizontally from the rear and stopping short of the front. Red symbols similar to the dome symbols are present on each side with a red bar offset. On the left side, the bar is positioned at the rear of the visor. On the right side, the bar is positioned at the front of the visor. Somehow this didn't get copied over in the first post. The hose port is gray in color with a red stripe approximately 20mm wide running down the front. Somehow this didn't get copied over when I made the first post. Helmet Hose Black ribbed hose that is 1.75" (45mm) diameter and 10" to 16" (200mm to 400mm) of length from the helmet hose port to the front chest hose port. Hose features a red stripe approximately 20mm wide, centered and running down the front of the hose.

Sounds great! I'll get the changes incorporated tomorrow. Just to confirm, I'm cutting another hole on each side of the frown where the wrench ends, correct? Just want to make sure before I cut my helmet... And here's what I'm calling "power cells." The part that protrudes is the "power cell."