Fivezero

Alright here's my response! 1. Gray Stripe, kinda hard to see due to the weathering/lighting. Here's a pic. 2. Hmm, the teeth....... Taking another look at it, on the right side (as you're wearing it) it looks like only two teeth are cut out vs. three on the left side. Trying to remember my thought process, I think I interpreted it as weathering at the time. The "maybe here too" cutout is right at the edge next to "indents." So I think I just wrote it off and kept it at 4 cutouts. Up to you guys, though. Maybe four cutouts for L1, extra for L2? 3. "The upper cheek on each side features 2 vertical bars that are rounded at the top. The rear bar is slightly taller than the front." How's that? 4. Here's a shot showing the aerators, they're a different color (slightly yellower) to the helmet so I chose tan (beige or something similar). I'd say no to the aerators being lit. The heavy weathering gives them some contrast that might look like lighting. I think keeping it simple and having it be the same/lighter color on the inside is the way to go. 5. Yeah it might useful to say that the trap is visible beneath the visor. Doesn't matter me whether its L1 or L2. 6. Wasn't sure how detailed we wanted to get on the power cells. How about this? "The “power cells” (boxes sticking out from the cheeks) consist of two smaller boxes with rounded corners and recesses on each end. A black stripe runs around each smaller box. The power cell housings feature gray stripes running around them." 7. On the hose, yep sounds good to mention it running down the front. "Hose features a red stripe approximately 20mm wide, centered and running down the front of the hose." So there are my thoughts on everything. Let me know what you guys think and I'll update the text above!

Here's all the reference photos I've collected.

Thanks Torri! Shoot, hope you're doing all right! Sent you a PM, got a helmet made up last night. So here's the progress from the last couple days. As I was writing the CRL draft, noticed one of the pouches was bigger. So made another pouch... Forgot to take pictures, but made up a new belt face forming buck and vacuum formed it yesterday. And then I painted the belt face and the cod plate. And realized I didn't have any belt screw covers, so popped one off of my Nova belt and made a mold. Also got a tracking number for the TK parts, should be here tomorrow!

Also I posted this with the other TFU troopers, as they all share much of the same quirks. We should probably move my build thread over here as well. Just my thoughts. I'll get a reference photo post going in a minute!

Alright guys, here's the first draft of the CRL text for the Jumptrooper! Let me know your thoughts and if anything should be moved around or reworded. ------------------------------------------ This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Helmet Helmet Hose Balaclava Under Suit Shoulder Straps Shoulder Armor Biceps Forearms Hand Plates Gloves Chest Armor Back Armor Jet Pack Abdomen Armor Kidney Armor Posterior Armor Belt Thigh Armor Lower Leg Armor Boots Neck Seal (Optional) Rail Detonator (Optional) ----------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------ Description: TFU Jumptrooper Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars: The Force Unleashed Jumptroopers are aerial specialists that are used as reinforcements to gain a height advantage on their enemies in assisting ground forces. Their jet packs coupled with their rail detonators make them a force to be reckoned with. Special Notes: The armor parts are gloss white made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed. Helmet Single piece lens must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. It can be either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke or dark green. A gray stripe runs below the lens ending at the top of the lens. This can be painted or a decal. There are two black "nostrils" present that are small rounded recesses on the bridge of the face, located between and slightly above the lower part of the visor eyes. The frown must have 4 to 6 teeth cut out and any gray coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The indents at the bottom of the frown are black. A recessed channel, painted black, runs around the ears and continues above and across the lower tubes , (please refer to additional helmet gallery picture). The lower tube stripes are gray in color and number 4 per side. These can be either hand painted or decals. The tube stripes connect to longer stripes running to the rear of the helmet. The upper cheek on each side features 2 vertical black bars that are rounded at the top. The rear bar is slightly taller than the front. The "ears" are rounded details with a notch to fit around the power cell housing. The ears feature two black pointed details. These can be either hand painted or decals. The power cell is comprised of 3 components; 2 power cells and the power cell housing, (please refer to additional helmet gallery picture). The power cells are small rectangular boxes that are connected to the power cell housing. Each power cell has a recessed face that is black. A black stripe approximately 3/32" (2mm) wide that runs around the outside of each power cell. There is a small gap between each power cell when mounted in the power cell housing. The power cell housing is seamlessly connected to the cheeks and has a recessed area where the power cells mount, the inner wall of the recessed area is black. A gray stripe approximately 3/16" (5mm) wide near the top of the housing. The aerators are tan, and screening must be silver. The interior of the aerator can either be white or tan. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) are gray and can be hand painted or decals. A red stripe is offset to the left side of the helmet and runs towards the rear of the dome. The stripe is approximately 1/2” (13mm) wide. Two small red symbols are present next to the dome stripe. Brow trim, black and approximately 5/8" (16mm) in height, runs from the rear of one trap to the rear of the opposite trap. The visor is attached with gray domed fasteners in the middle of the front traps. The visor attachment tab should be slightly smaller than the traps allowing the traps to be partially visible. The visor has gray stripes on each side, running horizontally from the rear and stopping short of the front. Red symbols similar to the dome symbols are present on each side with a red bar offset. On the left side, the bar is positioned towards the rear of the visor. On the right side, the bar is positioned towards the front of the visor. Visor mounts in front of the brow trim, with the top of the visor flush with the top of the brow trim. The hose port is gray in color with a red stripe approximately 3/4" (20mm) wide running down the front. Helmet is moderately weathered. All red detailing is weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Heavier weathering is present around the power cell housings, aerators and hose port. Helmet Hose Black ribbed hose that is 1.75" (45mm) diameter and 10" to 16" (20-40cm) of length from the helmet hose port to the front chest hose port. Hose features a red stripe approximately 3/4" (20mm) wide, centered and running down the front of the hose. The red stripe is weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Balaclava A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Shoulder Straps Shoulder straps are white in color, moderately weathered, with a series of approximately 15, evenly spaced raised rectangular features. The two front rectangular features are black with one being larger than the other. Shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be glued in front and free float in the back. Must be thin enough to show the chest and back armor on either side. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Shoulder Armor Shoulder bells are flat black in color, moderately weathered, symmetrical and feature 26 equally spaced recessed circles that are approximately 1” (25mm) in diameter. Recessed circles are comprised of 6 columns with 5 recessed circles in the 2 center columns and 4 recessed circles in the remaining columns. A 2” (50mm) gray elastic strap wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a large gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate, with the shoulders hanging mostly over the biceps. The holes must be spaced matching the reference images. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Biceps Biceps are white, moderately weathered, fully enclosed and have 8 evenly spaced rectangular boxes. The inner ring of the bicep is approximately 3/16" (5mm) thick. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Forearms Forearms are white, moderately weathered and fully enclosed. Two flat, raised ridges approximately 1” (25mm) wide are present around the forearm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Hand Plates Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. Hand plates are white with moderate weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Gloves Black rubber, Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed and non-textured OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor Chest armor is white, moderately weathered and overlaps the abdominal armor. A rectangular plate protrudes from the central raised section of the chest armor. A stepped hose port, gray in color, is mounted on the front rectangular plate. A small hose port, gray in color, is present on the left side of the chest plate. A tube is mounted on the bottom of the raised portion of the chest plate. The tube features two grooves, painted black, The raised portion on the right and the tapered hose port on the left are painted black. Dark gray ribbed hose that is 7/8" to 1" (22-25mm) diameter on each end and approximately 12" (31cm) of length, running from the chest tube to the side chest hose port. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. Top of the chest plate, at the shoulder, must be flush with the back plate. Chest tube is mounted slightly off center to the left of the chest plate. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Back Armor Back plate has little to no overlap of the kidney plate. Back plate is white and moderately weathered. The raised section of the back plate may be flat, as it is obscured by the jet pack. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. Top of the chest plate, at the shoulder, must be flush with the back plate. The raised section must feature inset rectangular detailing matching reference photos. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Jet Pack Styled after the pack as seen in The Force Unleashed video game. An interpretation of the pack is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged. The main fuel tank is flat black and cylindrical with a rounded conical top. Three white bands are present on the tank with the top band wrapping around the entire tank. The top two bands are approximately 1.25” (30mm) wide. The bottom band is approximately 3/4” (20mm) wide. There is a beveled and raised center section that is white in color which starts from the bottom white band of the main fuel tank to half way between the upper two bands. This center section has two recessed rectangular sections. All bands may be either a painted stripe or a flat, raised ridge similar to the forearms. Two rocket housings, primarily white in color, are present on each side of the main fuel tank. The upper part of each rocket housing has caps that are flat black in color with a white band that is approximately 3/4” (20mm) wide. The white part of the rocket housings curves downward at the side of each housing and rounds out at the rear facing side of the housing before going back up again towards the inside of the main fuel tank. A gray band, approximately 3/4” (20mm) wide, runs around the midway part of each rocket housing. At the bottom of each rocket housing there is a conical exhaust nozzle that is white in color. All bands may be either a painted stripe or a flat, raised ridge similar to the forearms. A curved white pipe that is approximately 1.5" (40mm) in diameter connects each rocket housing to the main fuel tank. A pentagonal plate, white in color, is present that the main fuel tank and rocket housings are mounted upon. Jet pack is moderately weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Heavier weathering is present around the top and bottom of each rocket housing. Abdomen The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 flat black buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos. The abdomen armor is white with moderate weathering. The cod plate must match reference photos. The cod plate may be integrated with the abdomen armor or a separate piece. If separated, any gap must be fully concealed by the belt. A smaller, angular plate is mounted on the top of the main abdomen plate. The small plate is flat black in color and features 12 holes approximately 1” (25mm) in diameter. The chest armor partially overlaps this plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed. There shall be a return edge that is present on the smaller plate with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). The smaller plate shall partially obscure the top of the button areas, covering the top buttons. A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around the cod plate. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Heavier weathering is present at the top of the abdomen armor and at the top of the cod plate. Kidney The kidney armor is white with moderate weathering. The kidney & posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The kidney and posterior armor shall be two separate pieces (ANH style). Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Heavier weathering is present at the top kidney armor. Posterior Armor The posterior armor is white with moderate weathering. The kidney & posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The kidney and posterior armor shall be two separate pieces (ANH style). Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Heavier weathering is present at the top of the posterior armor. Belt The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with two square buttons on each end of the belt. The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 2” to 3” (50-75mm) wide. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor. Two white pouches hang on either side of the belt face. Each pouch features two sections with a single flap covering both sections. The right pouch is approximately 6.25” x 4.5" x 2" (160mm x 115mm x 50mm). The left pouch is approximately 8.625” x 6.125" x 2" (220mm x 155mm x 50mm). Ammo belt and belt proper are moderately weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The ammo belt shall have longer ends than standard TK-style belts. Only 2 square buttons, one on each end of the belt, are present. The corners of the white plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed with a small angle at the top and a large sweeping curve that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. The canvas belt must be 2” (50mm) wide. The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. The front cover strips are approximately 2” to 2.5” (50-65mm) and run the length of the thigh. Rear cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge. An additional ridge is present on the outside of the thighs, running to the lower ridge. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams. Thigh armor is moderately weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. The front cover strips shall have an angled cut that meets at a sharp point at the top of the thigh. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. Octagonal knee plates, flat black in color, are present on each shin. The right shin features a small ammo belt. This belt can be affixed with Velcro, rivets or glued in place. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Lower leg armor is moderately weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The knee plates must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching them to the shins. A black flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges of the knee plates. The ammo belt must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. There shall be a return edge that is present on the ammo belt with a maximum width of 1/4" (6mm) width. The ends of the ammo belt shall be free floating from the shin. Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Heavier weathering is present around the bottom edge of the lower leg armor and underneath the knee plates. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. A white flap is present on the top of the boot extending over the toe of the boot. A smaller black flap is present over the white flap extending roughly halfway down the boot. Three reinforcement patches, white in color, are present on the toe of each boot. There is one larger piece at the front, with two smaller pieces at the sides. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. A zipper is allowable on the inside of the boots. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. Boots are moderately weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Weathering will match style seen in reference photos. Neck Seal (Optional) Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Rail Detonator (Optional) Built to match reference photos. Main body is painted flat black with details painted silver. Optional: The front fins can be illuminated with red lights or painted to mimic lighting.

How about another update? Finished painting the armor I had primed. Then I spent most of the weekend working on the shoulder bells. Looking at my reference pics, there's a pretty healthy lip around the whole thing. So I layered some plastic and cut/sanded it smooth to the edges. Finished it off with some spot putty then primed and painted them. Also made up a new pouch prototype (new one on the right), liked how this one turned out so I made another! Did some work to the jetpack, getting it cleaned up and touching up a few things. Somehow I missed a white strap going around the back side, so glued that in real quick. Also ordered some casting resin, gotta make a couple more helmets. Also made up a mold for the belt face boxes. Again took a look at the model and the boxes have an angle on them, so since I'm not happy with my belts anyway.... Finally cast a couple sets of flexible shoulder straps! Also I should have some armor parts on the way! Spoke with Rob from Imperial Issue and he made up a 2" canvas belt for this build and that is on its way as well! I started getting my reference pictures together in one spot, so I'll be posting those soon as well as a CRL draft. We're getting there!

So here's what I've been working on through out the week! Got the holes cut out in the shoulder and backed them up with plastic just like the knee plates. I made up some shoulder straps too! Decided I would cast with a urethane rubber so made up a mold real quick. Edge trim showed up so I finished up the chest plate. Finally started priming everything today! I plan to get the chest, back and kneeplates painted tomorrow. I've got little bit more to do on the shoulders, but they should be getting primed and painted tomorrow. Also planning to play around with the pouches more tomorrow, hopefully get two good ones made up.

Alright, so got everything dug out and laid out the other day, and had the realization that the hard stuff is done. Now it's just assembly and paint. So got my plan together for this build and started getting some material to put this thing together! So here's what I did for the jetpack and how it attaches to the back plate. Basically sandwiched some straps between a couple pieces of aluminum. Had a few different ideas for the harness, and ended up going with a couple simple straps like a backpack. Finally finished off the back plate with some edge trim, so now it's ready for paint! If anyone noticed, I had made two back plates. One stays flat for the jetpack, while the other one will have the center cut out and an insert with correct detail glued in. This one will be for the CRL/whenever I'm trooping without the jetpack. Then moved on to the knee plates. Got the holes drilled out, backed it up with some plastic and glued the trim on the outside, now they're ready for paint! Here's the chest plate too, basically just glued the center plate on. Ran out of edge trim, so couldn't get that on... Also made up a pouch, but I'm not very pleased with it. Going to try a couple different things on the next pouch and see if that turns out better. And finally turned some white elastic gray, just used some extremely diluted gray acrylic paint and brushed it on. This is the big strap going around the arms for the shoulder bells.

Sounds great Torri! I planned to make you a kit, since I know we've been talking about this trooper for years. If you are cannibalizing your shadow you'll need the butt, kidney, ab plate (minus the cod), thighs, shins and the hand plates. It's basically the same layout as a Stormtrooper-style build with a couple extra bits and a jetpack. That's the next thing on the list for me is getting some leg armor and a kidney plate. Gotta do some research since it's been so long since I've bought a proper kit...

Hey thanks guys! Feels good to be back on this stuff. Like I mentioned, the other projects are out of the way so full steam ahead on the Jumptrooper! I have to review the reference pics and models this weekend (it's been a while!) and I'll be getting a to-do list/plan together for this build. Still have a few things to figure out, but I'll start getting a CRL draft written up in the next couple weeks.

What's going on Spec Ops!?!? Been a while since there's been an update and got a pretty big one for you guys!! So this goes back to March, but I had some time off back in the spring and finally got this thing back together after 6 years of work. This has been the biggest detriment to armor building by far the last few years, but she's back on the road now (well except she's stored now for the winter...). Also had a few other projects come up including restoring a WWII 37mm cannon we picked up.... So those have been the major time sinks. So how about some Jumptrooper news? Going back to the summer, I built a new vacuum form oven to replace the modified space heater. She served me well when I built my EVO Trooper, but wouldn't cut it for the Jumptrooper. Also finished 3D printing the back plate, glued it, sanded, sanded, sanded and primed it. Also assembled the jetpack and then the whole build stalled for the summer/fall. But picked the Jumptrooper back up this month. Had to finish welding the frame for the vacuum former. I prepped the chest, back and cod by casting some plaster to support them. Took a couple days off this week and have been vacuum forming armor. Anyway here's a bunch of pictures (and I mean a bunch...)!! Oh yeah, got the helmet painted, detailed, assembled and weathered as well.

Thanks to @ImpOfficer for the 3D model. I was having some trouble getting the update to download.... Here's the 3D model. Interestingly the files are named "Rocket Trooper Commander," would probably be a good name for the new CRL. There's a few artifacts that need to be cleaned up, then I can make everything 3D printer friendly.

Got the game updating right now, I will see about getting the 3D model for this new appearance and getting that helmet and the shoulders prepped for 3D printing.

More painting!

Congrats on approval! Great looking Flametrooper!!

Thanks guys! I'm definitely getting antsy to get this thing finished (coming up on 3 years since I started it.....) Uh oh... I'm scared... Anyway, as I mentioned, I cut the paint masks for the helmet details. Top left is for the visor, top right is for the dome, bottom left is for the "ear circles (eh, I don't know what to call them)," and finally bottom right is for the upper cheeks, behind the visor. Also primed the other parts for the helmet. Unfortunately I knocked the visor and the little ears fell off. Will be a quick fix, so no worries there. I was digging through my box of parts and noticed the cod plate needed a "little" glue... Luckily it's getting vacuum formed, so shouldn't have to worry about glue after that. And here's a picture of all the parts I painted yesterday. Tomorrow I'll finish the painting pack parts, need to paint the straps and that center section white. Also need to paint the straps on the "thrusters" with some light gray.

Here's the progress from this weekend! Got the small spots taken care of on the helmet as well as adding some more definition to the traps on the dome. Also gave the dome another pass with spot putty to get it nice and round. Then I primed and painted the helmet! I hadn't planned on buying boots so soon, but found a great deal for them so went ahead and got them ($100 off....). They're pretty close to perfect for the Jumptrooper, just need to dye them white and add an extra flap of leather at the top. I also need to make some toe armor to stick on them. Finally, started painting the rest of the armor that is ready. I still have to paint the straps on the jetpack parts white. After that I can start assembling the jetpack! Tomorrow I plan to get the paint masks cut for all of the little details on the helmet. I also need to stop and get some more primer tomorrow, so I can get the visor and little side details primed and painted for the helmet. I plan to work on the helmet this week, and then start making some vacuum forming bucks for the main belt and shin ammo belt this weekend as well as printing the last couple pieces for the back plate.

Nah still working on that one, need to buy some 2-1/2" PVC pipe and then finish 3D printing the rest of the pieces. I'm waiting for the PVC, in case I need to resize any of the parts that fit over the pipe (the 3D printers can be a finicky).

Been a busy month, started getting the jetpack detailed and ready for paint. Still a few things to do before the pack is ready. Speaking of paint... And the big project this month, getting the helmet mold made. While waiting on the helmet mold to cure, I did some quick casting on the little details that stick out the side. Unfortunately the mold is shot after only 6 castings (luckily that's all I needed). Here's the mother mold made up, and the helmet sculpt out of the mold. Finally here's the first casting! Cleaned it up a little yesterday, trimmed the visor and teeth as well as sanding some minor bumps. I have a few spots that need a little filler (someone got a little too excited and forgot to completely seat the silicone mold in the mother mold). Otherwise, very happy with how it turned out, much better than my EVO Trooper helmet.

Well sorta, it's still has that raised portion like a regular TK-style back plate (different details in the recess), so you only have that strip around the recess. Not too worried as that should still be plenty of flat space to mount the jetpack. The square design of the recess also allows for more possibilities to secure the pack vs. the classic "O II" back plate design. Anyway, got the back plate remodeled. Took the original model and added the strip detail around the raised portion as well as the "creases" on the sides. These I still have to split it up in to chunks for 3D printing, but pretty pleased with it overall. Should work out great with a little filler and some sanding.

Thanks @Raider, glad to finally get back going on armor (also glad to finally have my Chevelle painted...). So got the silicone, urethane resin and Plasti-Paste for the helmet, visor and various greeblie molds. Also was about to start modelling the shoulder straps, but decided to take a look in game real quick to get some good screenshots. Unfortunately I noticed a couple odd things about the back plate. The back plate has three "surfaces" (excluding the raised portion) with a slight crease between each surface much like the chest plate. Also there is slight step that runs around the raised portion of the back plate. Originally I had thought that it was going to be simply swapping out the recessed area, but it's a whole new sculpt now... Time to model and print out a whole new back plate, luckily I hadn't really started on it yet...

Wow, been a while Spec Ops, but worked on this build a "little" bit this past week.... So here's a few pictures... Unfortunately, the helmet somehow took some damage so had to some repairs. And here's the layout of the all the armor and the jetpack. I've got silicone on the way to make a mold of the helmet before it gets damaged again... The visor and "power cell" details will also be molded and cast separately. Gonna try to get everything molded next week. The chest plate, shoulder, cod plate and knee plate are ready for vacuum forming (as soon as I rebuild my oven). Going to redo the shin ammo strap. Originally I had 3D printed it, but decided a vacuum formed piece would work better. The back plate will also be vacuum formed, it's the only piece that still needs major work. As for the jetpack, I need to finish the little rectangles in the middle of the main tank of the jetpack as well as fitting the tubes that connect to the other parts of the pack. Also need to source some thick plastic for the plate that everything mounts to. Still have to 3D print the chest plate hose inlets and design and print the shoulder straps. All the other parts are ready to go! Just need to sand them real quick and start painting them! Guess it's about to time to start buying the other armor pieces!

Hey, sorry not much to report... Haven't had time to work on trooper stuff in a while, been a bit busy getting my Chevelle ready for paint (almost there) and as usual been busy with our halftrack (and working on the cannon replica behind it). With that said I have been back working on this trooper here and there this past week. Got the thighs cleaned up and repainted this morning, painted the buttons on my ab plate and added the gasket, and cleaned up much of the armor parts. Still have to make up a new belt, new forearms as well as repairing the shoulders, shins and a couple cracks on the back plate. I just got my CRL photo booth set back up (been awhile!), so I hope to start getting pictures taken this week.

@Raider Typically only a couple hours to model something, obviously depends on complexity of the object. The rocket launcher was pretty simple overall, lots of simple shapes. Now projects like the FA-3 Flechette for my EVO Trooper or the jetpack for the TFU Jumptrooper, that usually take a whole day or two of modeling. Then another hour or so to get it cut up for 3D printing. Speaking of jetpacks, I have been working on remodeling the Rocket Trooper jetpack. The basic shape is knocked out, but I still have to add the details to it. It's currently seven separate parts that should be easier to print separately, there are channels for dowels to add some strength.

Been awhile, but I've been working on this stuff in while waiting on other projects. Threw some spot putty on the chest plate and sanded down a shoulder bell and a knee plate. Since I've decided to vacuum form these pieces, no sense in finishing both shoulders and knee plates. Next up I'll start putting spot putty on stuff like the forearms and biceps to get those finished up.