Fivezero

Hey everyone, been busy moving truck projects, getting our military vehicles out and ready for the show season as well as finishing up body work on my 71 Chevelle. So quick update, I was able to get my armor out and start laying down some new paint to refresh the armor. I've got a few repairs to make, but I'll start taking new photos for the CRL this week. We've got a military vehicle show coming up, so I won't be able to get them all done, but I'll get the ball rolling. I also welded up a new frame for my small vacuum form table as well as making some plaster molds so I can pull some clear forearms!

Honestly, I don't have much to say! That chest plate looks great! I was going to suggest grabbing the 3D model/textures from the game to use as reference as that's what I do, but looks like you are way ahead of me and already have it. So keep on modeling! I'm assuming you will be 3D printing the armor? If so, if you need help preparing the models, I would be happy to help out.

Hey Todd! Been a while... Thanks as always, but aside from the launcher, I'm not working on this trooper quite yet (got a few others on the list before this one). Just providing 3D print files for everyone else, since I have the original 3D models from the game.

Welcome aboard! As Chaos mentioned, try posting in the Swamptrooper section, also be sure to read through the build threads there!

Congrats on the approval! Certainly looks comfy!

Well the launcher ended up being a bigger project than anticipated... I had split the original game model up, but there was some funkiness going on with the parts that would have been a pain to print and then fit to a piece of pipe. So I decided just to remake the thing and designed it around a 50" length of 2-1/2" PVC pipe. There is a small section that is supposed to be smaller in a diameter than the rest of the tube, but I simplified it to allow for a single, continuous length of pipe to be used. It doesn't impact the final look too much. Other than that, every part should be there and ready to print! You will need additional hardware to secure various parts, a list is provided with the parts. The black parts in the picture below are the parts that need to be printed, the white tube is the PVC pipe of course. Link to the parts is above in the first post. I'm going to start printing it out tomorrow, and then make any changes if needed. Now it's time for the jetpack!

Here's another model I've found for the Rocket Troopers. Here's the rocket launcher that the trooper uses in game. I'm also a bit of a bazooka nerd (I have 3 real rocket launchers and a replica WWII one), so when I first saw this weapon I had to add it to my own trooper arsenal. I finally came across the model last night, so I'll be printing it out. I'll get this model cut up for 3D printing , but I will also make some minor edits for an improved version (namely having the tube hollow throughout).

Good to hear you're still after it and can work on it again!! Those light strips are a pain aren't they? I had to replace a few as well, and that was just from taking it on and off a couple times for approval pics. And no worries about taking so long either, I worked on mine for about 3 or 4 years before I was approved.

Yeah good choice on that. I recently decided to use my 3D printed Jumptrooper chest and other pieces as vacuum forming bucks in place of outright wearing it like I originally planned. Same conclusions you had, I was worried about it being too brittle and breaking from all the flexing that a chest plate endures. The helmet SHOULD be fine, though you will probably want to reinforce the inside. Better to be safe than sorry.

No worries at all SolidScrafty! Yeah, the gasket around the cod can be interpreted either way. I chose to leave it off on this CRL draft based on the 3D model as well as shots similar to the ones below. I chalk it up to a lighting/texture bug with the gray armor. Seeing it real time on my computer recently, it doesn't stand significantly enough for me to say there is a gasket there (and that's with it zoomed in). The same effect happens at the top of the thigh armor. It's just the hard 90 degree edge of the model messing with the texture. In many of my shots it looks undefined compared to rest of the molded edges. So I say we leave it off just to be safe. Additionally, I was partially drawing off of my EVO Trooper, which very clearly does not have the gasket on the cod. Here's the 3D model. Unlike the chest, back and ab plate, there is no clearly defined gasket geometry. It's just a flat edge. Here's some shots where, the gasket disappears instead of being clearly defined like the chest/back. Especially that third photo. You can also see where the light creates a "gasket" effect on the tops of the thighs (especially photo 2 and 3).

When I was collecting the necessary measurements for the belt and rivets, I noticed the drop boxes has a small 1/2" gap between it and the belt. Also the strap that connects it to the belt, is the same gray as the drop box (and the rest of the armor). I added these details to the L2 requirements. Otherwise just made some small corrections and merged everything into one document. Additionally there is only one drop box (on the left side) in the reference pics. This is probably to accommodate the lightsaber in the same manner that the pouches on my EVO Trooper get rotated to prevent the models clipping. I need to boot the game up and find some Shadow Stormtroopers to see if this feature extends to them, or is only part of the Starkiller skin.

Alright here's the updated CRL with L2 requirements integrated. All dimensions that were in question before have been measured on the 3D model. I did find a couple other small details and made the appropriate changes. Helmet For 501st approval: Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They may be flat or bubbled. Blue lighting shines around and on to the lenses. The body of the "ears" is metallic silver. The bars have three or four bumps and are dark gray in color. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out. Blue lighting shines through the spaces between the teeth. The tube stripes may number between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Blue lighting shines through the tube stripes. If the helmet is not made from clear plastic, the tube stripes must be cut out to allow the light to shine through. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is black. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening is silver. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) may be hand painted or decals and are dark gray in color. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three. The drop from the ears must also bend towards the back of the helmet, instead of vertically. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. FX/AM helmets are not allowed. Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. Shoulder Straps For 501st approval: These must be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. The shoulder straps are metallic silver in color OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a metallic silver elastic band to the black fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Shoulder Armor For 501st approval: One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. The shoulder bells are constructed of clear plastic with a broad gloss black stripe covering much of the shoulder bell. The shoulder bells have broad blue lighting that shines through the sides of the shoulder bell and a thin strip of blue lighting that shines through the bottom edge of the shoulder bell. Upper Arm Armor For 501st approval: Biceps are fully closed. Biceps are metallic silver in color. Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Forearms must appear to be fully sealed and enclosed. Forearms are metallic silver in color and may be constructed of clear plastic or opaque plastic. Blue lighting shines through the top and bottom circumference and through the depressions along the top ridge. If the forearm is made from opaque plastic, the ridge depressions need to be cut to allow the light to shine through. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Handplates For 501st approval: Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. The hand plates are metallic silver in color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted metallic silver, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards. Gloves For 501st approval: Black in color made of rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor For 501st approval: Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. The top of the chest plate is semi-gloss medium gray while the bottom is metallic silver in color. Blue lighting is present along the bottom edge and shines on to the abdominal plate. A metallic silver, flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest and back shall be connected with a black fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders Back Armor For 501st approval: Back plate contains a "O II" design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. Back plate is metallic silver in color. A metallic silver, flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Under Suit For 501st approval: Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Abdomen Armor For 501st approval: The abdomen armor is semi-gloss medium gray in color. The abdomen armor has a button area with 10 black buttons of approximately 7/16" in diameter. Abdomen armor button detail is inverted compared to ANH/ESB. A metallic silver, flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around the sides and top of the abdomen plate but does not extend around the cod plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line. Four rivets on both sides of the ab plate: two on each side, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They must be painted semi-gloss medium gray. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Correct sized buttons on the Ab Plate (7/16”) and must be gloss black in color. Kidney Armor For 501st approval: It is allowable to have a single kidney/posterior armor for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate. The kidney plate is metallic silver in color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Four rivets shall be present on the both sides of the kidney plate (two on each side), the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Posterior Armor For 501st approval: It is allowable to have a single kidney/posterior armor for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should line up below the bottom of the belt with the ab plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate. The butt plate is semi-gloss medium gray in color. Belt For 501st approval: Belt face is made of plastic (ammo belt). It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with two square buttons, one on each end. Belt proper is metallic silver and color and must be 2 to 3.5" wide and can be made with plastic or fabric. Back of the belt has blue lighting that shines onto the posterior armor. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the square button of the ammo belt. These are semi-gloss medium gray in color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Drop boxes must be attached using gray elastic that closely matches the color of the armor and must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with a 1/2” (13mm) gap between belt and box. The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed with a small 45 degree angle on the top and a broad curved cut along the bottom edge. Belt proper is thinner than standard TK-style belts, being 2” (50mm) wide with the top aligned with the bottom of the 45 degree cut. Eight rivets shall be present on the belt proper (arranged in pairs), the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 1/4" (6mm) diameter. And spaced out to match reference pictures. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a cylinder 2 to 2.5" in diameter with metallic silver end caps and a metallic silver control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap. Blue lighting shines through the main cylinder body. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): O2 canister should have a large block that is attached to the belt in place of clips. This block can be secured with a discrete method (rivets, Velcro, bolts, or similar method) to the belt. Thigh Armor For 501st approval: The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The thigh armor is semi-gloss medium gray in color. The ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh and is metallic silver in color. The ammo belt has blue lighting behind it, shining on to the thigh. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The edges of the thigh ammo belt shall be cut straight. The ends of the thigh ammo belt shall be angled upward and attached above the bottom ridge of the armor. Lower Leg Armor For 501st approval: The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin and is metallic silver, with the central hexagon being semi-gloss medium gray. The shin armor is metallic silver in color. Blue lighting shines through and along the bottom edge of the armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Boots For 501st approval: Dark gray leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodphur-type boots or an equivalent style. All stitching must be dark gray, and unnecessary or decorative stitching must not be present. Elvis / Mariachi boots are not acceptable. A red stripe is present around the front of the boot. White or other color boots may be painted dark gray so long as the boots are maintained to remain the proper color.

3D printers are the best! Hands down one of the best purchases I made in the last couple years. Your build is looking great, can't wait to see the end result!

I won't comment too much more on the lightsaber issue, other than to say even if the LMOs decide to include it, I will of course step aside on the issue. I won't stonewall this CRL over a lightsaber. This CRL has been in limbo for about 4 years or so, it's definitely time to get it done. To get this thing rolling again, I'll sit down tonight to combine the L1 and L2 requirements into a single draft, as well as confirming the little details for the L2 requirements. Also I grabbed out my armor last night. Some parts aren't as bad as I initially thought, but will still need repairs. The forearms will need to be remade however (gotta get rid of that awful EL tape around the top and bottom). The big thing with my rebuild is using a new power source, the cheap little batteries I used are awful. So I'll start taking photos of what parts I can.

Hey SolidScrafty, I do understand the argument you're making. I still disagree with adding the saber (and disagree with FISD having it in their CRLs). As @Raider mentioned, this CRL is for the Shadow Stormtrooper, not Starkiller in disguise. Every Shadow Stormtrooper you meet in-game as an enemy is equipped with an E-11, not a lightsaber. And as I mentioned before, the Shadow Stormtrooper is not one of the default Starkiller costumes in the game that you get through progression. There is not a single mission where you are sneaking around as any of the troopers in disguise. All of this also applies to my EVO Trooper as well as the Jumptrooper that I'm currently building. All I want to do is make sure we're accurately representing these troopers as they appear as the enemies in the game, and make sure the standard reflects that for future Legion members. As I mentioned earlier, the LMO questioned the legitimacy of my screenshots and this trooper due to that lightsaber when I submitted my Shadow Stormtrooper. He thought it was a custom skin added to the game, I had to send in shots of the trooper as they appear naturally (i.e. with a blaster), to confirm it was a real trooper and not a fan creation. Thus, the saber was left off for the initial CRL draft that was submitted. With all of this said, feel free to wear a lightsaber at troops! There's nothing stopping you other some words, we're just asking to leave it off for approval, that's all. After that, do what you want! I just trooped with my Elite Novatrooper at Celebration, I had an E-11 on my belt and a custom cellphone/wallet pouch. Sometimes I throw on a TD when I'm not wearing the pack. None of this is in the CRL for the Elite Nova. As for the differences between the skin and the trooper, I don't believe there are any actual differences aside from the saber. But I can double check tomorrow just in case. I know on the Jumptrooper and the EVO trooper, the belt pouches get rotated to clear the saber.

Your Flametrooper is looking great, fantastic work!!

Attention future Rocket Troopers! A little project I'm working on at the moment is preparing the unique parts of the Rocket Trooper for 3D printing. Right now I only have the mohawk ready to go, I plan to do the jetpack as well. I will remodel both the mohawk and jetpack to smooth them out a bit. Without further ado, here's the link to the print files! Mohawk https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3571376 Rocket Launcher https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3579006

Not sure about the specifics, but if that is the right spot, you could try cutting a strip of plastic that is the same width as the slot and gluing that to the back of the mount. Then press and glue the whole thing in the slot. Let others chime in first to see what they did though!

Finally got home from Celebration, and was able to compare it with the original model. Everything looks much better @CrookKnight, thanks for the work updating the pack!

Here's some more work on this Jumptrooper. Sanded the chest plate down some more and threw some quick paint on it to see how it looks. Still have a couple spots to hit with more filler. After that I had to do some work on the tops of the jetpack nozzle tubes to get them to fit. Need to some remodeling of those parts for any future Jumptroopers. Then I started laying down some filler on the main tank of the jetpack and the little pipes that connect everything.

Thanks man! Yeah, unfortunately still pretty far from the finish line. Still have to glue everything, then lots of sanding, then lots of spot putty, more sanding, and on and on. Then primer, paint and lots of details that have to be added. Nonetheless, still happy to finally have the correct blaster for my EVO Trooper.

Just sent you the file, let me know if you have any trouble with it or need it in a different format.

And here it is with all of the parts printed out! Honestly didn't take as long as I thought. Also got the barrels cut and did a quick test fit with the 3D printed parts. Need to remodel and reprint a few parts (the parts that are set inside the PVC pipe). Somehow got the diameter wrong... Eh no big deal, they're small parts. Very cool to finally see it come to life after all these years.

Yeah I know, it was a bit easier to type separately (as I just copied and pasted the text posted on the forums). I was hoping to get it combined tonight, but ran out of time. And yep, yep, yep and yep to your questions! I know it's a bit of a weird combination, but that's how it is. The black rivets could be interpreted as holes, but in other lighting they look like proper domed rivets (I can get a better picture if we need it for clarification). Personally I think rivets will look better in the long run. Here's a quick picture with the rivets circled.

Alright, here's my take on the Level 2 requirements, most of it is taken from the regular Shadow Stormtrooper Specialist requirements with a few subtractions and additions. The main highlights include the thinner belt, belt/ab/kidney rivets, and details around the thigh ammo belt. The TD/02 canister also attaches differently with a large block in place of the clips. I also moved the cuts for the belt face over to Level 2, to be more in line with the other Level 2 requirements. I left off any mention of needing a specific movie style armor. Yes there are some ANH and ROTJ features, but overall much of the armor geometry has differences to either style and ideally it needs its own armor sculpt to be truly, 100% accurate. For example the shoulders are cut a little differently and have a slightly different shape, the biceps and forearms are a different sculpt, the ab plate is much shorter than either ANH or ROTJ, and a few other things. Realistically, this isn't very feasible and a tad overkill given the context. So I say we keep the armor sculpt open-ended throughout the CRL. Anyway here's the Level 2 text. Check it over, and let me know if anything should be changed or reworded. I'll work on combining both sets of requirements and post them with along with any changes that are needed. Helmet Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three. The drop from the Ears must also bend towards the back of the helmet, instead of vertically. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. FX/AM helmets are not allowed. Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Shoulder Straps These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a metallic silver elastic band to the black fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Forearms No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Hand Plates Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted metallic silver, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards. Gloves Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Chest and back shall be connected with a black fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders. Back Plate Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Abdomen Plate Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line. Four rivets on both sides of the ab plate: two on each side, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter (I need to double check measurements on the 3D model) and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They must be painted semi-gloss medium gray. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Correct sized buttons on the Ab Plate (7/16”) and must be gloss black in color. Kidney Plate Four rivets shall be present on the both sides of the kidney plate (two on each side), the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16"(8mm) (I need to double check measurements on the 3D model) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Belt Drop boxes must be attached using black elastic and must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed with a small 45 degree angle on the top and a broad curved cut along the bottom edge. Belt proper is thinner than standard TK-style belts, being 50mm (I need to double check measurements on the 3D model) wide with the top aligned with the bottom of the 45 degree cut. Eight rivets shall be present on the belt proper (arranged in pairs), the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter. (I need to double check measurements on the 3D model) And spaced out to match reference pictures. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. O2 Canister O2 canister should have a large block that is attached to the belt in place of clips. This block can be secured with a discrete method (rivets, Velcro, bolts, or similar method) to the belt. Thighsa The edges of the thigh ammo belt should be cut straight The ends of the thigh ammo belt should be angled upward and attached above the bottom ridge of the armor. Lower Legs Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.