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Everything posted by IcyTrooper
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I guess since we have that on a majority of the panels we can go ahead and state that is the L1 requirement to have the split and forego any L2 requirements. Since there are no molded/rubber edges appearing on any of the armor I can say we probably don't need to be inclusive for ROTJ mixed with ANH.
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Imperial Flametrooper (Jedi Fallen Order)
IcyTrooper replied to stevechewbacca's topic in Imperial Flametrooper (JFO)
Really tests your patience! -
I'm glad you posted that about the Polyflex, I never thought about it adding a ton of weight. I had used a bunch of it on my Royal Guard helmet but I think I didn't notice it as much because the plastic was thicker than other plastic I've used.
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That is an interesting interpretation, however, I know it is just for us to think out loud here since fan art isn't permissible. I'm going to go back and definitively look at the panels a bit more but I think for this series (#59/60) we should for sure stick with the hard armor for abdomen and kidney/posterior.
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To piggy-back on this, make sure the Imgur link has an image extension at the end for it to work.
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Agreed, I'd run them separately and we'll definitely need someone to build the costume and make adjustments if needed for references, etc.
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From the looks of it, the photos were removed from Tinypic since even the URL's won't push over to anything, regardless of how the back-end was updated. The OP would have to re-upload them onto a new image host and then link them in.
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I present the updated text for what we discussed here to move forward: Chest Armor Overlaps the abdominal armor. There is a slight groove running vertical on each lateral side of the chest that angles towards slightly towards the center. These vertical grooves line up with the abdomen armor lines. Chest armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. The abdomen is black in color. There are three white vertical lines in the middle. The outer lines are aligned with the two recessed lines of the chest armor. There are four white rectangles. Two on each side in a horizontal and parallel position. The rectangles are slightly elevated above the surface of the abdomen. Rectangles cannot be drawn or hand-painted There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor. There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Let me know if we want to proceed with the above.
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I see what you are seeing. Perhaps I can pull something that similarly speaks from the FOTK kits, I'll list it below. Good comparisons! Haha yeah that is fine. What about this for text?: Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. The abdomen is black in color. There are three white vertical lines in the middle. The outer lines are aligned with the two recessed lines of the chest armor. There are four white rectangles. Two on each side in a horizontal and parallel position. The rectangles are slightly elevated above the surface of the abdomen. Rectangles cannot be drawn or hand-painted There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor. There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. For the lines on the chest this is what the FOTK has: There is a slight groove running vertical on each lateral side of the chest that angles towards slightly towards the center. Also, I think we skipped the Back Armor but I think we can use this standard text for it?: Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).
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Chest Armor Overlaps the abdominal armor. There are two recessed lines, slightly curved and vertical, on either side of the chest. Width of the lines decreases as they progress to the bottom of the chest armor and line up with the abdomen armor lines. Chest armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. @RAIDER I added the chest text to align with the abdomen armor text which speaks about also lining up with the chest. Also, for the ab/cod piece I'd be comfortable making the separate cod piece a requirement for L1 since we are materially having to modify the ab plate as it is. Splitting the cod plate shouldn't be hard at all.
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For the helmet, that is a good point! I'd say for the ability to quickly allow for conversions with L1 to have the text say blue or black for L1 and black for L2. I made such updates to the 1st post with the finalized text. For the pauldron, I have made that correction to change it to "affixed". That is a good question for the type of armor for it. I never thought about the hard pauldron, I'd like to see if we have a comparison on normal pauldron to this pauldron in those comic panels if they even exist. I'll have to see what we have in it. I'm not opposed to the hard option for L2. See above
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Imperial Flametrooper (Jedi Fallen Order)
IcyTrooper replied to stevechewbacca's topic in Imperial Flametrooper (JFO)
It sucks that it can't be hidden by weathering!! -
Imperial Flametrooper (Jedi Fallen Order)
IcyTrooper replied to stevechewbacca's topic in Imperial Flametrooper (JFO)
Ahhhh that sucks on the seam! -
First of all, I'd like to thank @RAIDER for getting me back onto this and assisting with this. I would like to apologize to @darthRivera for the lag in this, short of any excuses I've had some real world issues that have set me back away from costuming duties but I'm almost out of the water. The pandemic hasn't been kind to my job (as most people haven't either). That being said, let's keep it moving! I will make this a high priority on my end. Now onto this CRL!: Biceps - Text looks good to me, I'd make a motion to finalize it so that I can include it in the first post as the finalized text. Bicep pouch - Text looks good to me, I added zoomed in/isolated reference photos to Raider's post. One thing to think of for the pouch would be to add that the snap on that pouch is black. For the rivet I think we should just call it a snap and state that it doesn't not need to be functional in it. We should also put something in there that if there is any stitching it is black. That is similar to the requirements that they have in FISD with pouches on the HWT. Forearms - Text looks good to me, I'd make a motion to finalize it so that I can include it in the first post as the finalized text. Compad - That text looks good actually! Not sure we need any L2 stuff on it. Unless we keep it painted as a color for blue light blue for L1 and make the lit part a requirement for L2, just thinking of availability of parts. What do you think? I also updated the first post to have the added sections for this costume (e.g. bicep couch and forearm compad).
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Hello! I'm a tall trooper as well, I'm close to 6' 3" so I'd definitely recommend dropping those thighs a little bit. We are going to have a gap regardless but we can at least minimize it a bit How you had it here was very good:
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Thank you so much @thisiskevin!
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Hello, Kyle! You can probably do a combination of cheating the chest down as well as the ab plate up. If you heat mold the part closest to the shoulders you can sometimes use the fuller length of the shoulder straps to get a few more more distance on it. The biggest part is you don't want to see a gap between the ab plate and the chest plate. The cod piece you'll probably want just enough to go about a 1/4 of an inch around the goods. Do you have a Walt kit?
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Painting tips for latex or silicone hand guards
IcyTrooper replied to Dropkick's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
I can't wait to see as well! -
tat2trooper anovos shadow trooper build
IcyTrooper replied to Tat2trooper's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Congrats on the approval! Well done! -
Painting tips for latex or silicone hand guards
IcyTrooper replied to Dropkick's topic in Shadow Stormtrooper
Great suggestion! I forgot about Plasti-dip.