IcyTrooper

The return edge may exist or not exist for basic approval. For Level 2 (L2), which is recognizable at detachment level only, there may not be any return edge on the part of the forearm closest to the wrists. Here is the CRL that the GML's will use for review on approvals: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_shadow_stormtrooper

You're definitely going to want to do the butt joint with cover strip method. You can only do overlap if the kit has that cover strip molded into the part which from the looks of this kit isn't there (not a common option). You'll also take some of the return edge off the ends as well which will give you some more space. Another tip that I'd recommend is to have your undersuit on when sizing the arms and biceps (as well as other parts) to ensure that you have the proper fit. You don't want to have it so tight that with the suit you won't be able to get your arm through. I'd give yourself room in the bicep to move around a little, if you can. I'll try and see if I have some images of mine as well, but this thread I've linked is very helpful!

Gap wise it'll most likely be whatever looks most uniform. Measurements are largely used for proportions only, unless it is a level 2 detail or something that would really effect the look of the costume.

I think they look great!

I support this modification.

Being both a GML and a DCA here, much like Blackwatch, gives a unique opportunity for a perspective in how things are looked at. I've solicited the knowledge of some fellow GMLs and we agree that shape and obvious details are at the first and foremost of approvals if there is no specific guidance that states otherwise. What that means is that laces would be a no go because it is obvious in the art that there are no laces and that would be an easily seen detail. Stitching or zippers on the other hand are a lot more minute and should be reserved for the L2 consideration. Same thing applied to a bulk of our other costumes as well. Another example would be belt loop holes, etc.

Get that TFU one done!

You guys seem to be the pros with the paint haha...we gonna knock that paint stuff out now or do you wanna just progress and we can decide on the paint at the end since it'll apply to most (if not all) of the parts.

I don't believe so. I'd get the ab plate and chest plate together on you and we can see.

The chest looks like it is normal sized from what I can tell in the pic. Your ab piece is going to up higher (cod piece cups the goods) and with the should straps the chest will come down a little as well. As far as places to start the forearms and shins are both good ones!

That's wild the amount of different colors!

Green = Additions Red = Delete Purple = Questions --------------------------------- Helmet Shape of the helmet matches the CRL image and information below: The helmet is based on the standard Stormtrooper helmet, but features larger cheek tubes which bridge into a truncated nose, which is larger and wider than the standard stormtrooper faceplate. The faceplate stops at the earcap, and flares outward at an up-swept angle when viewed from the front. The helmet features a wide skirt originating at the back of the earcap, and sweeps out and downward away from the dome and traps. The skirt widens to partially cover the top of the wearers backplate, and completely covers the shoulder straps. The skirt sweeps back at about level to the rest of the bottom of the helmet, and ends at a point. The skirt is enclosed at the bottom, all the way around, as found in other Stormtrooper helmets. Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are dark red. Backlit LEDs give an illuminated glow effect on the lenses. The body of the "ears" must be gray. The bars have three or four bumps and are gray. Ear bump section is outlined in black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and dark gray coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are medium blue or dark grey in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) must be black and is correct in size and shape in relation to the faceplate. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator must be red. Red LEDs within the aerator give the appearance that it is glowing. Tears (area beneath the corners of the eye lenses) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Tears are outlined in black. Tears have vertical black lines. Front traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Front traps are outlined in black. There are no vertical black lines on the front traps. Rear traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Rear traps are outlined in black. Rear traps have vertical black lines. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps, not three. The third bump from the front is black. The tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. The fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

No problem sir, I just didn't wanna make you do more work than you had to for it.

I'm going to go through your proposal but I think you may have bypassed mine ?. I'm sure we probably have similar stuff or if you want to take a look in that and I can edit the master post that I have?

Those blasters look great!

Congrats on the approval!

Here is a good one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M0GZZCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iqv8Eb2T8JKVQ

@Blackwatch do you have any input on this? I'd need more pics from each angle and up close to see, but your GML will ultimately be the one approving it so go by his/her guidance on that. As long as it meets both the image and text of the CRL I wouldn't see why it wouldn't pass. Now if you want my opinion, from quick glance it does have proper appearance. You hit the nail on the head precisely with #1, they are hidden. I used an Imperial Army Trooper Specialist ( @Blackwatch's application) so that you can see how they are hidden: As long as it appears hidden I wouldn't see why you couldn't do that and get rid of the clips.

For first set of armor that is excellent! It looks so real!

I second green painters tape, I used frog tape brand with my imperial combat assault tank driver and it worked wonders.

That's sweet!

Congrats!

Welcome and let us know if you have any questions!

This is gonna be cool to see!

Sure! Here is the shirt: https://www.amazon.com/TM-MUT12-KKR_Small-Long-Sleeved-T-Shirt-Compression-Baselayer/dp/B07MDZDPN4/ref=cs_sr_dp_2?dchild=1&keywords=tesla%2Bgear&qid=1591286415&sr=8-6&th=1 Pants: https://www.amazon.com/TSLA-Compression-Running-Baselayer-Athletic/dp/B07K2QRNM6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=tesla%2Bgear&qid=1591286473&sr=8-5&th=1