Chaos

I don't think so, the heel stitching is not correct. Have you contacted Imperial Boots or Giovanni at CrowProps from Gio?

I have seen a few post requesting assistance on how others have rigged/strapped their armor. There are several ways to rig the armor and most have used the TK strapping method, this works and is what most of us are familiar with. When I was overhauling my Jim Tripon kit to meet the Level 2 CRL requirements I did a lot of research on the other armors we saw in Rogue One. All these armors were completely redone and designed specifically for R1 to incorporate the same basic assembly procedures, which made it much easier for the prop department and costume wranglers to dress and assemble the armor on the actor's. The closet such armor/assembly to the DT I could find was the Shoretrooper. This armor shares a lot of hidden rigging systems with the DT. Paul, from Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build ( https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/?fbclid=IwAR2vDFXjtF7in8jsdpWBBA5UKfUuobpKBsix_nZinhteu8tu4uW1Rwth7vQ ) has done an excellent job of replicating the Shoretrooper and I honestly believe the most accurate representation there is next to an original screen used/built armor set. As a matter of fact, the chest and back armor are identical with the exception of a few minor details. It is because of this basic similarity, I recommend using the rigging techniques that Paul uses to rig/strap your DT. I applied the ST rigging techniques to my DT for the upper armor, shoulder bells and bicep armor and I can tell you, the way that they are rigged makes for greater upper arm movement and it allows the pieces to easily return to their original position after you make any movements. Another assembly technique I used was the abdomen, There has been much said about the abdomen and lower back armor pieces being a corset where the abdomen and lower back armor are attached to the abdomen gasket (be it a formed rubber piece made to look like the leather like ribbed arm and knee gasket material or a sewn ribbed piece of material) so I looked at that and compared it to the way the Shoretrooper's abdomen and lower back armor were constructed and found that it made sense that the costume department utilized the same construction techniques to make the DT armor. So I completely deconstructed Jim Tripon's under shirt, removed the abdomen gasket section, replaced it with a heavy duty meshed fabric like we see in the armpit area, and assembled the gasket material and abdomen/lower back armor into a corset type construction independently strapped from the chest and back pieces and supported in the same manner as the ST. I found that this gave me more freedom of movement in the torso and allows the upper armor and lower armor to move independently from each other. I also recommend either using a separate waist belt or suspender type support system to attach your thigh armor. This prevents the thighs from pulling down on the abdomen armor and the abdomen armor from pulling up on the thighs. So this is how my armor is strapped: The upper section consists of the chest and back secured/strapped at the shoulders and the sides, the same way as the ST is in Mr. Paul's ST Build, then the shoulder bells and biceps are attached to the upper armor pieces (my attachment point is the overlap of the back armor) as the ST. The mid torso section is an individually strapped and supported corset consisting of the abdomen and lower back armor. The chest and back pieces just overlap the abdomen and lower back and are not attached to them. The lower section of the thigh armor is independently attached/supported by a belt or suspender straps with a front strap and a side strap that attach to the thighs. UKSWRATH's suspension rig works well with this concept. I used his system and just made a few minor modifications. I also used Mr. Paul's ST technique for the closing of the forearm armor pieces. Its a clamshell design and uses internal elastic type bands to keep the forearms closed but allows enough stretch to be able to slide your hands through. The necessary cord blocks are in the bicep cord lock stl files, you simply need to just print out four to six each for the forearms and attach and thread them. Here is a link to some photos of my kit and Mr. Paul's ST armor so you can get an idea of what I have described above. https://imgur.com/a/xaRbyZg Here is a link to my 3D files that I made to attach to my shoulder bells and bicep armor pieces which work the same way as the ST's. (You can download and print these files for personal use. I do not authorized you to sell the files or print and sell the files. I have not yet made any 3D files that I am satisfied with yet to mimic Paul's shoulder bell support pieces. I recommend getting these from him as they are excellent quality and he is an awesome guy to work with or simply make your own. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7f5nduyuql2xfoh/bicep cord lock block.stl?dl=0 Best of luck with your builds, and as always I and the other Spec Ops are here to help if needed.

Possibly, you'd have to change the sole to look like the Docs, that could be as easy as removing the tread portion and leaving the flat part or a complete replacement of the sole, the lace hooks are much of an issue as they will be covered by the lace cover, the only other requirement I am unsure of the back heel seam stitching, I can't really see from the photo.

@Lt. Dan Daniel, there is a way to make the spandex ribbed fabric ridged enough to retain the ribs. Where we see the loss of ribbing is mostly in the abdomen gasket. If you can back the fabric with a stiffer no elastic fabric such as a rhino canvas or a rubber sheet, the spandex fabric will not flatten out the ribs. It is a little warmer but not that much more.

@0igrez Sergio, Welcome to Spec Ops! ASP does a great job with their finished product. I would, however, go take a look at the CRL Color Scheme link and make sure that all your painting details are IAW the CRL. I have mentioned to Denis at ASP that the little recessed pill on the lower chest is FLAT BLACK and not silver. It's a minor detail but one that is a CRL approval requirement. https://databank.501st.com/databank/CRL_Gallery:Imp_Death_Trooper Best of luck with your build, we are here if you have any questions.

@TookBreaker Tarkan, Welcome to Spec Ops, looks like you are well on your way with your list. Jimmi is probably your best bet for an undersuit, it might be a little more than the others but his seamstress individually sews the ribs over inserted cording which makes the ribs hold their form when stretched (this is a Level 2 requirement should you go that route as you build your kit) Its good that your are in contact with Andrew (PAD) he is a wealth of knowledge and one of the original DT Troopers. Best of luck with your build, we are all hear if you have any questions.

@Lt. Dan Jimmi's undersuit and gaskets are individually sewn. His seamstress takes the leather like material and sews in cording so the ribs hold their form. The result is much better than Mood's Ribbed Faux Leather Spandex material.

@stnc Michael, welcome to Spec Ops, excellent choice on the DT. Your list looks like you have done your research. I replied above to MKE - Trooper's post concerning under-suits. As far as the blasters, you can get them pre built and painted but if you have some time and ability to assemble your own it will be way less expensive. There is a list of Vendors for the blasters, most sells 3D printed kits. The good thing about assembling your own as you can wire up any audio and light kits you wish as you build it. Definitely better than trying to disassemble a premade and painted one to install electronics. There is a lot of knowledge available in the DT forums, use the search function when you start your build, make a build thread and post up pictures and questions as you go. Best of luck and I am here if you have any questions.

The good thing about Jimmi's undersuit is that his seamstress takes a leather like material and individually sews the ribs, it's time consuming but it looks so much better than the spandex/pleated faux leather material that Mood was selling, which I think is what DSC and ASP were using. That material when stretched lost its ribbed appearance quite easily. https://www.moodfabrics.com/black-rib-quilted-stretch-faux-leather-111296 I had heard that Geeky Pink's Gaskets was looking at making an undersuit but I haven't seen anything from her yet.

Since the character is computer graphics generated, the color of the "real world inspirational item" can be manipulated. The palm leather is gray and the nomex backing is a Sage Green which if sprayed with white/gray fabric paint could closely resemble the screen grab. I doubt you will ever find an exact commercially produced glove, someone like Gio, IB, or Endor would have to specially make them.

And by the way, when the Nomex on the back of the gloves gets worn the texture very much resembles the texture in the screen shots. I don't think the back sides are a suede or rough leather. I honestly think the creators were going for the Flyer's glove look as they are flame/flash fire resistant.

I haven't had a chance to really look thru the whole thread, but something to think about when it come to the gloves. The stitching pattern and construction of the gloves actually resembles Nomex Flyer's Gloves. Are we sure they weren't intended to be Sage Green Nomex gloves? I'll give this a better look when I get back to the US next week. https://www.ebay.com/itm/263896280045?mkevt=1&siteid=1&mkcid=2&mkrid=711-153320-877651-5&source_name=google&mktype=pla_ssc&campaignid=10460522637&groupid=106739056274&targeted=pla-293946777986&MT_ID=&adpos=&device=m&googleloc=9076963&itemid=263896280045&merchantid=116792603&geo_id=210&gclid=CjwKCAiA78aNBhAlEiwA7B76p7G-1OI5jBFs68tBw7F7RFaj58110Vo1SdxI3XgBuQ59r51rYPY9KBoCRhAQAvD_BwE

Nick, Welcome to the Detachment. You've got a great list. There really aren't any vendors for a complete strapping system due to the fact that each armor vendor produces their pieces which vary in size and build from the others. UKSWRATH did sell a strapping system for the Sith Trooper which some of us modified to work with our DTs. Your best course of action is to find ASP work in progress builds and see how each person strapped their kits and then pick and choose what works best for you. If ASP and DSC are not making undersuits right now, contact Jim Tripon or Geeky Pinks Gaskets. As far as your blasters and holsters, the vendor's list has a good selection, any one of the vendor's are a good source. Helmet audio system I use UKSWRATH'S helmet system and am very pleased with it, so much so I've used it in two of my helmet set ups. Cooling fans I went with Trooper Tronix, well built and at a great price. All of the vendor's I mention have their contact information listed in the vendor's list. Best of luck with your build.

Your link works. Best of luck with your build.

Yep, that post pretty much sums it up. If you have any specific questions, feel free to reach out.

Awesome build and Congratulations!

Congratulations Matthew! You build looks awesome! One more TX in the CG, we definitely need a Search and Destroy Team in the CG now.

Apologies for taking longer than expected to upload a photo but work took up more time than I had anticipated. Explanations are on the photo. Hope this helps as well.

The color scheme guide is correct, photos of the armor depending on lighting, will give the look of a different sheen. Use the guide.

I'll send another reply later this evening when I get back from work. Yep, the early version of the 850 kits caused a few building issues for some folks. I'll try and remember who had one of those kits and see if they posted anything about modifying it.

@therealtotty no worries, I was joking around, those aluminum arm greeblies are pricey but worth it in the long run.

Oh let's go have a look see in the Death Trooper parts vendor thread and see what we can find ...... Oh look! "Metal Parts" http://www.warmachinepaintball.com/death-trooper/ ???? I had to do that, all the time and effort I put into that list and hardly anyone uses it.

Micheal. you answered his question as well, good feedback for him ? thank you for providing your experienced with your ASP kit, it helped confirm what others are saying.

@Christian Vasileff Christian, first off, Welcome to Spec Ops. We get this type of question all the time. Both 850 and ASP are vetted Death Trooper suppliers and their kits are capable of being "approved" each kit has it's Pros and Cons. There are build threads in this sub-forum of each type that you can read thru and make your own decision based upon your own personal desires. Below is a comment I posted on another troopers thread asking the same question. Though he was asking about 850 and The Plastic Arms Dealer (PAD) and not Armory Shop Props (ASP), the comparison is pretty much the same with the PAD kit being a fiberglass resin and ASP being a 3D print reinforced with fiberglass resin. I have read that 850 has added some resin and cast add-ons to their ABS kit which offer more detailing but some parts of their ABS kit still contain what are known as "soft pull" details. XXXXXXXXX Welcome to Spec Ops, your path to joining the 501st Legion is going to be an exciting one and at times overwhelming. There will be times when you feel like you are up against a wall and in need of some advice. When those occasions arise make sure you turn to our Community as there is a plethora of knowledgeable individuals here who have been where you might be. There are no "dumb questions" ever in our group and the only dumb question is the question not asked. Now, to your request for advice. There are several things a Trooper should consider when taking that leap to purchase their first set of armor etc. What is your budget? How good are your crafting skills? How accurate do you want your build to be? Do you have other Legion builders who are near you (Local Garrison/Outpost) that can assist? These are the biggies. Next you will want to do some research on the armor and supplier that you are considering. 850 Armorworks and The PlasticArmsDealer kits are both quite capable of being approved. Keep in mind that no kit is ever "approvable" straight out of the box. Some kits require more work that others, some kits are more "screen accurate" than others, but all kits will require trimming, assembling, and fitting to be "approvable." The best research you can do is search through the Death Trooper build threads that members of our Community have posted. Look for ones that have built the kits you are considering and see what their "pros" and "cons" have been during their builds. Some things to keep in mind about the materials that are used in the construction of a kit. ABS kits are light weight plastic kits that have been heated and then vacuum pressed against a mold. The end results can be very good on larger less detailed pieces, but for pieces that have smaller intricate details, the details are less "sharp" and considered "soft pulls." ABS kits tend to be less expensive than other kits due to the cost of the materials. Fiberglass or resin constructed kits are a little heavier than ABS but the smaller details are usually very sharp and look more like the kits used in Rogue One and the Mandalorian. These types of kits that are available now also require less "modifications" to achieve the higher level of "screen accuracy." Fiberglass and resins kits are a little more pricey but some builders have found that the money they saved buying a less expensive kit, they ended up spending on modifications to achieve that higher detailed appearance. If you want to get an idea of how much work a kit will need in terms of modifications etc, you'll need to read the Costume Reference Library or CRL for the Death Trooper and then look at each piece of a kit you are thinking about and see if the CRL details match the kit's details. For example ( I am not recommending any one supplier, only providing an example of how different kits can be from the CRL basic Level 1 and Specialist Level 2 requirements) the CRL for the helmet states that the center piece of the nose bridge has the appearance of a weathered matte black and brushed aluminum/silver surface as depicted in the reference and gallery photos. It also consists of the following: 4 to 6 small horizontal rectangular vent/ribs extending from the top of the nose bridge to approximately ¼ way down. 6 to 8 larger horizontal rectangular vent/ribs run from ⅔ towards the bottom. 7 to 9 vertical vent/ribs connect from the nose bridge to the snout. Two vent tubes in black rubber or matte black paint are evident on either side of the face plates. That is for basic Level 1 approval, then for Level 2 which is considered more screen accurate, the same piece must have "Nose bridge vents/ribs have in these number in order from top to bottom; 6, 8, and 9." So when you look at the two suppliers helmets you are considering: 850 Armorworks helmets vent ribs are top to bottom; 6, 6 (maybe 7), and 9, nit picky I know, but it is the difference of having a Level 1 or Level 2 armor kit. I have seen where 850 has been upgrading their kits with resin printed/cast parts that give the smaller details the crispness that this unique armor deserves so that should be researched. The PlasticArmsDealer's helmet is screen accurate but the body armor kit still has some differences that need to be addressed to reach a Level 2 build. There are a few other suppliers you can research by going to the Death Trooper Parts Vendor post at the top of the Death Trooper sub forum. One last thing, I know there are some Death Trooper build groups on Facebook and they are a great resource of information but as with any social media platform, there are also some posts that contain misinformation. When in doubt, use the Spec Ops Forum, any information you get here I guarantee will be the most accurate, thus saving you time and money. I know this has probably made you feel like you are taking a drink from a fire hose, but that's how it is sometimes, you just have to try and "gulp" down as much as you can and then just keep coming back until you have it all. One last thing, the best way to get your questions answered and have them all in one place is to start yourself a build thread way before you even purchase anything and then keep the thread updated with your progress and questions until completed. I can't emphasize that enough, it is the best way to do this, start to finish. Best of luck with your build and reach out if you need any advice. Here are photos of the same areas of detail, side by side of 850, ASP, PAD, and the R1 screen used kit, you can see where there are indented grooves and angled lines that there are obvious differences in the edges sharpness. @wook1138 used an 850 kit, he may be able to tell you what his pros and cons were. Hope this helps.