Chaos

Dominic, I'd recommend getting all your undersuit/gasket/boots pieces first. This way whether you are 3D printing, using a fiberglass/resin, or ABS kit you can make sure the fit is right. The undersuit/gaskets add bulk to your body and the boots add girth to your ankles and its easier to trim/build the pieces over it rather than having them too tight and having to readjust the sizing later on. If you are using a kit that requires trimming and attaching pieces together start with the easy parts first (forearms, biceps, thighs, shins) so that you can get comfortable with the fitting/trimming process before you move on to the more intricate pieces. If you are 3D printing, I recommend using a program called Armorsmith Designer from The Armored Garage. You can fit the pieces to you exact body measurements. It definitely saves time and hassle with trimming. Plus you can use it for any Cosplay 3D files. Best of luck with your build, this Detachment has a wealth of knowledge, feel free to use it.

@jc1327 Justin, what exactly are your issues with 850s back and chest. I was Primary on the CRL updates and I intentionally made sure that the current kit maker's kits could pass the basic level approval with a few minor tweaks. I'm not a fan of ABS for the DT. IOF the details to look authentic the lines need to be crisp. Post up some photos of what you have, maybe we can offer up better solutions than you spending more money. I know there are a few 850 build threads on here as well.

@TucsonDerrick Derrick, strapping will depend on what works best for you and which DT kit you build. I would recommend looking thru all the DT build threads and see what works best for your needs. My upper armor is strapped in the same manner as Mr Paul's Shoretrooper. My abdomen and back plate is a corset design attached to my ab gasket held in place the same way as the ST. Belt is velcroed to a strip under my abdomen and the back plate, then my butt plate and cod piece are velcroed to the belt. I use Ukswrath's harness slightly modified to hang my thighs. The mobility is great and I can sit down. Best of luck with your build and don't forget to start your own build thread, makes it easier to ask questions and get advice all in one place. Welcome to Spec Ops!

@Anarchy4 John, to be honest, the money that you saved by purchasing the Hex3D DT files, you're going to lose in having to change/fix your prints, for example, the nose bridge vent/ridges are inaccurate and the oval tusk attachment pieces on the front are round, not square, though a GML might pass it for Basic approval, it will not pass Level 2 approval should you wish to go that route. Before you print anything else, download the CRL photos of each piece and then do a side by side comparison and you will be able to see all the inaccurate sections that will need to be fixed/modified.

Start your build thread, post where you got the files from, I'm sure someone will be able to assist, without knows whose/what files they are I can't give a specific person.

@Anarchy4 The lens, if cut from welding shields, can be heat molded to fit the curve of the inside of the helmet and trimmed to fit the opening. If you are looking to go for Level 2, the lens would need to not only be curved to follow the inside, but also must have a slight "bulge" or outward curve. The link that @nanotek posted is Level 2 approvable. If your files are not from one of the vendors that we listed in the Death Trooper Vendor list then I would have someone take a look at the files to see exactly how much work would be required to make them approvable. Its best to start knowing what needs to be fixed early in your build instead of finding out later after you have put a lot of work into a piece. Best of luck, make sure you start your own build thread and post up progress so we can assist you along the way.

@Lt. Dan Nice work!

I'll reach out and see where they are at, it's more of a hobby for them, so they work on it when they can. They wanted it to be spot on, so not much use posting up progress right now. Tom's files are still the best and also use Paul Prentice's Shoretrooper build for assembly techniques as both costumes were designed by the same folks so there are a lot of similarities. If I find out anything I will post it up in the forums.

Found your build thread. ?

@Lt. Dan one more thing, the straps and buckles have a slight bend and inward angle. Ok that's all LOL

@Lt. Dan also, after you position the buckles, make sure that the rubber straps aren't too long. It will make them bend up and not lay properly across the shoulders.

@Lt. Dan use the weathering references photos, they are from the Celebration's display. Look at where the corners of the lower buckle are in relation to the chest armor details. The CRL is a guide and lot of times references only the photos with no specifics. There is a lot of "eyeballing guesstimates" for this build.

Put your cod piece in place when you're fitting, I ended up having to trim the tops of my thighs so they didn't rub and pinch my boys ? Better to find out now than on a 2 hour trooping

@Lt. Dan post a picture from the side of your front and back armor joined. That way I can help. I use a tab set up like Paul's but it's just the tab with no fore/aft extension.

@CrookKnight if you're doing an 850 then your best thread to check out is:

@CrookKnight Shawn, it really depends on which kit you will be building, we have two of us in the Carolina Garrison, Drew Menard who is in Charlotte and myself in Raleigh. You can reach out when you start for advice, no one kit is perfect and all require some modifications. Best is to post your own build thread and ask from there. What kit are you building?

I like that you like it @ukswrath ?

@mjt82 I air brushed the areas with a light acrylic gray, then wiped with a dry rag. Nice thing is it can be completely removed if I want to go back to looking like a new recruit. There is a link photos in the CRL text that you can use as weathering references. https://databank.501st.com/databank/CRL_Gallery:Imp_Death_Trooper Remember that when weathering the CRL says "slightly weathered" so less is more so to speak.

@Lt. Dan outstanding news! I've tweaked my armor pieces a lot over the years, it's a never ending process but each one gets us closer. He'll even the suits made by the pros for the movies were constantly getting repairs and adjustments. Looking forward to your completion.

Apologies, I was still working on my first cup of coffee this morning, you are correct, the outside is narrower.

Also, if at all possible to make the ribbed sections opposite and even.

@Lt. Dan hey man, it looks like your thighs are not rounded enough. Food for thought, if your armor is 3d filament and you are willing, take a hair dryer or heat gun on low, put your undersuit gaskets on and from the inside gently heat the inside areas "Gently" then when they are warm enough to flex, wrap them in place around your thighs. Once you get a good fit, you can then mark and trim the ribbed areas to fit. For appearances, try and keep the (CORRECTED) outside ribbed area narrower than the inside. A lot of people, to include myself, made the circumstance adjustments and sacrificed the inner rib width to make our thighs fit. You can then glue the outer sides, and clamshell velcro the inside so they are easier to put on.

Nice work Dan, so you decided to glue your forearms instead of leaving the inside seam clam shelled?

@Lt. Dan that will work! If possible clamshell the outer shin over the inner shin, makes the closure less noticeable (not a CRL or approval requirement)

Dan post a picture of your shins, I'll take a look, my angular extension is part of my outer shin so it's not an issue if it is not part of the inner shin, as long as it is there.