Chaos

Good day all, going to throw my two cents in here simply because I know "camo" 😄 and having worked with many CRL discussions about colors and sheens due to lighting (because opinions are like sphincters, everyone has one). The graphics designers of the game most likely used variants of colors' shading and lighting to give a more realistic appearance. Much like we had with the DT in trying to decide if a color was flat black that looked gray due to lighting, or it was actually gray. I could go into all the aspects of why certain backgrounds are used in camo patterns etc., but I think the bottom line is the base color could be a really light shade of green, or brown, or even gray. Unless you have the exact color HEX code the designer actually used, you will never know. I think this CRL should not require that the base material or color be of a “specific” color (because we just do not know) but maybe say something like this. • The costume's armor and hard pieces are camouflaged with "diffused" colors of green and brown in varying shades/tints with a "lighter shade" variant undertone/base. See reference photos. I am a firm believer in the K.I.S.S principle.

I found a photo of the blaster used by the Gen 3s in the Mando, but unfortunately it didn't have the usual ID tag telling us what the nomenclature is. Has anyone see it named anywhere. I know its based on the MP40.

A lot of people have done that for painting their kits. As a matter of fact next year when I repaint my kit, I will use the same process. I will probably use Imron paint as it is very durable, but its about $100 a gallon. LOL everything else was expensive on my build, why not extend that to the paint?

If you want a slimmer fit on the thighs I can show you what I did to mine. They are actually "clamshelled" with a velcro closure. I'll look tomorrow at work to see if I have any photos.

Because your kit is a Tripon one, here is what you need to do for the side buckle. With your front and back upper and lower armor on and positioned to fit. The rear armor side overlaps the front side piece. Draw a pencil line along the front edge of the back side piece. If you do not expect to need to change the girth of your lower, place the rear upper corner at the edge of the pencil line, the flat edge should align with the back side piece top edge. This is where you position and attach the side buckle. It should look like this:

Benjamin, Looks good so far, I had suggested to Hector that if he moved his back up so that it rotated forward, his collar tusks would sit a little lower. You will need to use some type of tab on your collar tusks to bring them down to lay flat against the front neck recess. Several people have used the tabs that I made and use on mine. Remember with Jim's kit the back sides overlap the front sides. When you get the pieces set, trim the shoulder areas so that the front and back edges meet centerline with the top of your shoulder. It makes hiding the seam easier.

I would imagine, for those that have 3D printed parts, the need to be able to replace a broken spar is easily done with a removable sniper plate. Just guessing.

This might help

That is what I did to mine, I used a 4 inch sanding wheel and "slowly" ground out a curved area. However, before I did that I took some 2 part epoxy and leveled out the backside of the sniper knee to give me more material to work with and strengthen the outside prongs.

Impressive work Andreas! I think we might be at a point to start building the CRL requirements. More to follow later.

I am excited to have another Death Trooper in our ranks. As I stated on another of your threads, we are here to assist anyway we can. Best of luck with your build.

@Andreas Funk thanks for posting, I'll take a closer look this week.

Suggestion to fix the riding up and overall appearance, don't make the shin fit tight. If it's loose around your ankle, the movement of walking won't push up the shin. Because it's too tight when it does get pushed up, it doesn't fall back in place. With it loose you may run into the shin rotating. You can keep the shin aligned to the front by putting a piece of velcro on your boot spats and the inside front of the shin. That's how mine is and it works well AND the lower part of my shin doesn't feel like it's compressing my ankles.

Jim's suit is awesome. I wouldn't worry about lifting your arms too much. Wait till you get the upper armor on. 😁

That is an option, having a V1 and V2, if we do have a V2 helmet lets make sure if there is any other damage in addition to the broken jaw it should be included as well.

@Andreas Funk well done on solving the joint process. I think your solution to conceal as much of the elbow, knee, and wrist undersuit works great and would be acceptable as a method or concealment. I will post up what I have done when I get a break from work and can sit down and do some screen shots. I am excited that we are bringing this costume back to life.

Dan, If you are going to put another coat of the Appliance paint on the helmet, I would wet sand it done to 800 or 1000 grit, looks like you have some orange peeling. Clean it really good with mild degreaser let dry and sit for 5-7 days, then apply another coat using the "wet coat" method. You don't need a filler/primer, you just need a really smooth surface. I would also spray it in an area void of dust and flying particles. Since the paint is thicker than most it dries slower and susceptible to things sticking to it.

if you used the Appliance enamel, let it cure for a week and then hit it with a polisher and polishing compound. its just like a car paint finish. Also the Appliance enamel is designed to go on as a "wet" coat. Light coats without a complete wet coverage will create spotty areas. I had to practice 4-5 times on a scrap piece of plastic I had before I sprayed my armor. Also the recoat times are different than your standard spray paints, recoat withing 30 minutes (I usually use 10-15) or 1 week. If you recoat outside of 30 and before a week you'll get an orange peel look.

Andreas, wir haben in letzter Zeit nicht viel an der CRL gearbeitet. Die größten Herausforderungen sind 1: Referenzfotos und 2: Jemand, der einen Bausatz gebaut hat, der als Diskussionsstoff für die CRL-Entwicklung verwendet werden könnte. Wenn Sie sich aktiv an der Diskussion und Entwicklung der CRL beteiligen und Ihren Build als Beispiel verwenden möchten, sind wir gerne bereit, den CRL-Prozess für dieses Kostüm fortzusetzen. Zumindest müssten wir mit klaren Fotos in höherer Auflösung von jedem Teil Ihres Kostüms beginnen, und zwar weitgehend in der gleichen Reihenfolge und Ausrichtung wie die CRL für eine bereits fertiggestellte CRL. Am besten geeignet wäre wahrscheinlich der Death Trooper, da es den Anschein hat, dass viele der im DT verwendeten Produktionsdesigntechniken auch im Gen 3 Dark Trooper verwendet wurden. Sobald wir Ihre Fotos haben, können wir beginnen, Ihre Fotos mit den Referenzfotos zu vergleichen und mit dem CRL-Verbiage-Prozess zu beginnen. Ich werde den Kommandostab markieren, damit er mitmachen kann, und auch @HidingInCosplay, der, wie Sie wissen, auch einen Kostümbau abgeschlossen hat. Ich bin zu 98 % mit meinen modifizierten 3D-Dateien unter Verwendung vorhandener Dateien und Bildschirmreferenzfotos fertig und zu 30 % mit dem Druck fertig. Wenn wir eine CRL erstellen wollen, ist es meiner Meinung nach die beste Vorgehensweise, eine Bildschirm-„Helden“-CRL zu verwenden und nicht die Disney-Requisite, da wir die CGI-Bilder reproduzieren müssen, die für das Erscheinungsbild des Dark Trooper erstellt wurden. Wenn wir von Detachment Leadership das „Go ahead“ erhalten, wird sich dieser Thread höchstwahrscheinlich in einen echten CRL-Diskussionsthread verwandeln. Stehen Sie bereit und bereiten Sie die Fotos vor. Jeder, der Fotos veröffentlichen möchte, muss diese auf einer Foto-Sharing-Site wie Imgur platzieren und die Option „Direkter Link“ verwenden, um diese Fotos in seinem Build-Thread zu platzieren. Es macht es viel einfacher, wenn wir mit dem Diskussionsprozess beginnen. Andreas, we haven't done much development on the CRL lately. The biggest challenges are 1: reference photos, and 2: Someone who has built a kit that could be used as a discussion piece for the CRL development. If you would like to be actively involved in the discussion and development of the CRL and use your build as an example we would be more than willing to continue the CRL process for this costume. At a minimum we would need to start with clear higher resolution photos of each piece of your costume much in the same order and orientation as the CRL for an already completed CRL. Probably the best one to use would be the Death Trooper as it appears much of the production design techniques used in the DT were also used in the Gen 3 Dark Trooper. Once we have your photos we can begin to compare your photos to the reference photos and begin the CRL verbiage process. I will tag the Command Staff @IcyTrooper @Dropkick @RAIDER @Blackwatch @rickyboyblue @SithThundercracker @Katiebug0747 @tipperaryred @Darth Corndog so they can chime in and also @HidingInCosplay who as you know has also completed a costume build. I am 98% with my modified 3D files using existing files and screen reference photos and 30% printing complete. If we are going to do a CRL I think the best course of action is to go with a screen "hero" CRL and not the Disney Prop as we need to replicate the CGI imaging that was done to the Dark Trooper's appearance. If we get the "Go ahead" from Detachment Leadership, most likely this thread will transform into an actual CRL Discussion thread. Stand by and get those photos ready. Anyone who is going to post photos will need to place those on a photo sharing site such as Imgur and use the "Direct Link" option to place those photos into their Build thread. It makes it a lot easier when we start the discussion process.

How are you hip boxes and front ammo pouches attached?

My file is a Silloutte format, however, I can convert it to a .svg file so you should be able to import it and use to cut the silver vinyl. I'll send it to you later today. Your SE-r is made with MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files)? I ask because there are 2 different sizes based on the blaster modelling size.

The CRL for Level 2 only says this "OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is a small silver or gray circuit card pattern on the bottom rear just behind the hand grip." With that being said, when a CRL references an item and does not give a complete description then it defaults back to any photos that are provided. Those "circuit boards" you are showing will work, as long as when they are adhered to the SE-14r, they are close to the approximate size as seen in the photo. Ideally you want it to look exactly like the screen used one. If you know someone who has a Cricut or Silhouette decal cutting machine I can send you a template file which matches the screen used one. You just can't do what someone who I sent the file to for personal use, and start selling them using my file, that really pissed me the F-Off