IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 6 hours ago, Mr.Nova said: How are they normally attached? I assume to the shoulder straps, correct? Yeah generally that is where they are attached. We only specify strapping instructions or guidelines if it can be seen in reference images. 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Updated the finalized text for the Shoulder Armor to the following: Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Time to move onto the Biceps! 1 Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 The shoulder bells float, they don't sit flat over the shoulder like most other trooper armor and kind of float upward. Maybe that should be a level 2 requirement? In most pictures you can actually see the shoulders of the character model from under the shoulder bells. 1 Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 some clones had padding, we had to do that here to get the shoulder pads to move away from the shoulder. it can bet put in as an L2. it caused more problems than it solved, so that seems L2 to me. 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 That is a good point by both! I'm hard pressed to figure out how you could make it stand up and not cause an issue with arm movement. Hmmm. Link to comment
Mr.Nova Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 That honestly seems more like a graphical thing rather than intended design. Physically, pauldrons wouldn't be elevated like that unless there was some kind of angled hard point. Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 8 hours ago, Mr.Nova said: That honestly seems more like a graphical thing rather than intended design. Physically, pauldrons wouldn't be elevated like that unless there was some kind of angled hard point. I'm fairly certain it's a design choice as the shoulder bells are always like that on the game model, not just during particular animations. I'm not sure why the artists made the shoulders float like that, I can only assume they did it to make the troops look "bulkier", but who knows. Whatever the case, the shoulders remain like that at all times. 17 hours ago, IcyTrooper said: That is a good point by both! I'm hard pressed to figure out how you could make it stand up and not cause an issue with arm movement. Hmmm. I used football shoulder armor, which I snapped to the webbing shoulder straps of the chest/back armor. The football armor is painted black to blend in better with the suit. The trooper shoulder bells are attached to the football armor by webbing, the webbing is attached to the football armor webbing strap, which allows for movement. The shoulders are kept "floating" by using pieces of black window insulation foam that are glued to the outer surface of the football armor and the inner surface of the trooper shoulder armor. I don't have much problem moving around with it. 17 hours ago, Blackwatch said: some clones had padding, we had to do that here to get the shoulder pads to move away from the shoulder. it can bet put in as an L2. it caused more problems than it solved, so that seems L2 to me. Sounds good to me. Link to comment
Mr.Nova Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 12 hours ago, Blue Hatter said: I'm fairly certain it's a design choice as the shoulder bells are always like that on the game model, not just during particular animations. I'm not sure why the artists made the shoulders float like that, I can only assume they did it to make the troops look "bulkier", but who knows. Whatever the case, the shoulders remain like that at all times. Idk, short of reaching out to the design team directly, all we can do is assume. It just strikes me as strange since no other units have pauldrons like that, and seems like it could easily just have been a quirk that was overlooked and never patched. Like a typo in the rotation numbers for the mesh skeleton, which could easily happen. (Just look at the 212 story monolith in the new Flight Simulator, lol) It's taking design liberties into our hands, but I think would be a very reasonable assumption to make that they were intended to be down, like the pauldrons on all the other units, but we can agree to disagree, if that's the case. Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 9 hours ago, Mr.Nova said: Idk, short of reaching out to the design team directly, all we can do is assume. It just strikes me as strange since no other units have pauldrons like that, and seems like it could easily just have been a quirk that was overlooked and never patched. Like a typo in the rotation numbers for the mesh skeleton, which could easily happen. (Just look at the 212 story monolith in the new Flight Simulator, lol) It's taking design liberties into our hands, but I think would be a very reasonable assumption to make that they were intended to be down, like the pauldrons on all the other units, but we can agree to disagree, if that's the case. For the shoulder armor to be up it would have to be edited on the mesh itself. And the fact that shoulder armor stays in that position throughout the various character animations makes me think that the design was intentional. But there's no way of knowing for certain so having the floating shoulders as a level two requirement I think would work just fine. Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Shoulder bells are angled to appear to float upwards. Alright, I have edited the text to add the angled part to it. Does this look good? 2 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Biceps Biceps are fully closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8” (10mm) width. Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 10 hours ago, IcyTrooper said: Biceps Biceps are fully closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8” (10mm) width. What is "overlap construction"? I've seen that mentioned before but I'm not sure what it means. And here are a few things from my notes... Biceps are fully closed. Outer shell of the bicep overlays the inner shell. The outer shell and cover strips are painted gloss medium gray-blue. The inner shell is painted gloss dark gray-blue. 1 Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Overlap is common on troopers when the plastic parts come together and one part is mounted directly on top of the other part. Some trooper kits come with the receiving part molded with a shelf for the other part to mount onto, so the plates appear to be butt-joined. All snowtrooper forearms are overlapped significantly. 1 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 14 hours ago, Blue Hatter said: What is "overlap construction"? I've seen that mentioned before but I'm not sure what it means. And here are a few things from my notes... Biceps are fully closed. Outer shell of the bicep overlays the inner shell. The outer shell and cover strips are painted gloss medium gray-blue. The inner shell is painted gloss dark gray-blue. Ahhh I should have explained that. @Blackwatch did a solid job explaining it! I do believe that your second bullet point makes reference to overlap construction, I believe? I haven't found any conclusive evidence in the reference photos that it must be overlap. The main reason that they state that the overlap has to be included in the mold is so that it looks cleaner. I'm glad that you brought up the point about the darker inside, I totally missed that! 1 Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 Ah, okay, I think I get it now. The reason I mentioned the layering is because on the game model skin it usually looks like the lighter color armor parts are layered over the darker parts and I figured that it would be the same for the biceps as well. The skin does have a bit of a shadow on the bicep texture where the dark color meets the light color, which to me gives it the illusion that the dark-colored inner half of the bicep is "deeper" than the lighter-colored half... But seeing as the models are flat and the textures don't really have any bump mapping it's hard to say that for certain. I suppose that either construction method would give it essentially the same look, anyway, because of the two-tone color scheme. 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Biceps Biceps are fully closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. The inner half of the bicep on each arm at the edge of the cover strip is a darker gray than the base body color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8” (10mm) width. How does this look? Link to comment
kishdr Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 On 8/3/2020 at 11:44 PM, Raider said: Correct. Unfortunately this is not an actual official game skin (I have both BF1 and 2 by EA as well). It’s essentially fan art that someone imported into the game on their own. We have had a similar request for a “Ghost Trooper” (white Death Trooper), but since it is not an official skin it cannot be made into a CRL. Probably not what you wanted to hear @Mr.Nova sorry. Right now, the only version that can be pursued is the one under construction from the ol skool BF. There was quite a nice model made by @kishdr that might be approve able. Im not sure what his plans for that model were. Or the Oota Goota (did I get it right?) kit if still in production. I'm trying to find someone who will print it out for me. So far, all of my contacts have fallen through. They'll pick up the project and drop out because of the sheer size of everything that's gonna go into it. Intimidation. Of course, I'm paying for such a thing, so it's not like its free work. I'd go with Shapeways Printing, but I've seen some pretty bad models that have came out of their store. Aswell, they charge a 100 dollar fee just for them to tell you if your model can be printed. Sorry for my lack of activity here, my mind gets distracted easily, as well I had a family medical emergency that prevented me from getting back sooner. COVID kinda crushed 501st activity, I haven't had the drive to even finish up my R1 TK. Ideally, I'd like to get the suit printed, and make it into kits. Its funny to see the BF2 fan made interpretation of the BF Classic Darktrooper PH0 get posted here. I and that mod developer had some very strong words between eachother on who's is more accurate. He marketed his model being that it is THE representation of what Phase 0s looked like. We don't talk anymore. I see there's been many talks about finishing up the CRL. Could my model be of any assistance, considering during the creation you all gave much needed input to be more accurate? Such examples of the major changes I made to match the accuracy better being the helmet, straps, Vocoder, aswell as the chestplate and arms. 2 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 47 minutes ago, kishdr said: I'm trying to find someone who will print it out for me. So far, all of my contacts have fallen through. They'll pick up the project and drop out because of the sheer size of everything that's gonna go into it. Intimidation. Of course, I'm paying for such a thing, so it's not like its free work. I'd go with Shapeways Printing, but I've seen some pretty bad models that have came out of their store. Aswell, they charge a 100 dollar fee just for them to tell you if your model can be printed. Sorry for my lack of activity here, my mind gets distracted easily, as well I had a family medical emergency that prevented me from getting back sooner. COVID kinda crushed 501st activity, I haven't had the drive to even finish up my R1 TK. Ideally, I'd like to get the suit printed, and make it into kits. Its funny to see the BF2 fan made interpretation of the BF Classic Darktrooper PH0 get posted here. I and that mod developer had some very strong words between eachother on who's is more accurate. He marketed his model being that it is THE representation of what Phase 0s looked like. We don't talk anymore. I see there's been many talks about finishing up the CRL. Could my model be of any assistance, considering during the creation you all gave much needed input to be more accurate? Such examples of the major changes I made to match the accuracy better being the helmet, straps, Vocoder, aswell as the chestplate and arms. Welcome back! Sorry to hear about the emergency, COVID has taken a number on a lot in many different ways As far as assisting, we are definitely looking to have many interested parties helping to review the text that is going into the CRL. We are on the biceps now and are going to move onto the forearms next Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 4 hours ago, kishdr said: I'm trying to find someone who will print it out for me. So far, all of my contacts have fallen through. They'll pick up the project and drop out because of the sheer size of everything that's gonna go into it. Intimidation. Of course, I'm paying for such a thing, so it's not like its free work. I'd go with Shapeways Printing, but I've seen some pretty bad models that have came out of their store. Aswell, they charge a 100 dollar fee just for them to tell you if your model can be printed. Sorry for my lack of activity here, my mind gets distracted easily, as well I had a family medical emergency that prevented me from getting back sooner. COVID kinda crushed 501st activity, I haven't had the drive to even finish up my R1 TK. Ideally, I'd like to get the suit printed, and make it into kits. Its funny to see the BF2 fan made interpretation of the BF Classic Darktrooper PH0 get posted here. I and that mod developer had some very strong words between eachother on who's is more accurate. He marketed his model being that it is THE representation of what Phase 0s looked like. We don't talk anymore. I see there's been many talks about finishing up the CRL. Could my model be of any assistance, considering during the creation you all gave much needed input to be more accurate? Such examples of the major changes I made to match the accuracy better being the helmet, straps, Vocoder, aswell as the chestplate and arms. I'm sorry to hear about the family problems, that's gotta be rough. And yeah, COVID has nixxed a lot of activity anymore. For printing, yeah, that would be tough to find someone to do it. I imagine that Shapeways would cost a fortune to do it. I'd print it for you but it would take my printer forever do it. My print bed is something like 5" x 8" x 10"... I might be able to print it all in like... three years? XD Have you tried looking up local printers? There might be a printing fabrication company around you that could do it, perhaps. There are also various community print shops that might be able to do it, or at least they might know someone who can. Another option could be Pepakura, though that would take a bit of work to finish the printed paper model, fill it all in, harden it up, sand it and whatever else. And I have no idea how you convert models in Pepakura... But I've seen some impressive stuff done with it. And for whatever it's worth, I think your model is much more accurate than the one on Youtube. 1 Link to comment
Mr.Nova Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 19 hours ago, kishdr said: Is this your updated model that you were working on? It's come a long way @_@ Link to comment
kishdr Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 9 hours ago, Mr.Nova said: Is this your updated model that you were working on? It's come a long way @_@ I'm unsure what you are referencing. The model has been completed since March 12, 2020. Are you confusing me for the creator of the Darktrooper you posted? That's Degginal Nox, whom I was talking about earlier. That guy has an inflated ego. Link to comment
Mr.Nova Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 4 hours ago, kishdr said: I'm unsure what you are referencing. The model has been completed since March 12, 2020. Are you confusing me for the creator of the Darktrooper you posted? That's Degginal Nox, whom I was talking about earlier. That guy has an inflated ego. Oh, that was the image you posted, so I thought you were referencing your model. Degginal Nox's model is a bit different, so I assumed it was yours. Apologies, This is primarily the thread I've been staying in, so I didn't know yours was completed. 1 Link to comment
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