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WEG Cannon Seatrooper Build


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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 years later...

Oh long forgotten thread,

The world thought you were dead,

Shake the dust from your pages,

Arise now from your slumbering bed.

 

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Hi everyone! How has it been? Almost four years since my last post... eek.

 

In those four years, this project pretty much came to a halt when my mentor and workshop partner developed pituitary cancer and could no longer assist/teach me things that were required. I then moved house, joined admin of a superhero costuming group who worked closely with our local 501st, graduated uni and got a real job (the real time killer). Excuses excuses I know, but I've been really removed from the 501st scene most of this time :( But, I'm back at it.

 

My mentor is in remission, though the extent of the brain surgery he had to have has left him chronically exhausted an unable to assist physically with the project. But at least he is still with us. Over the last weekend, we had one of the three big conventions in my city, OzComicon, and there was a big Star Wars reveal on the Saturday. With all the speculation and hope, rumors it was going to be for Celebration Australia were high. It turned out to be the Death Trooper Squad, but my interest in finishing the Seatrooper was already piqued. After all, the other costuming group was closed down, and now I need a newer 501st costume to keep going to conventions in :P (Though the Shoretrooper is also pretty sick).

 

I'm headed to my parents place to look for the boxes in storage there today. Hopefully they don't have too much damage. The helmet is still in my possession, it's a bit beat up, needs a new paint job and what not, but all up, not looking too bad for 4 years in storage. The local vacforming/casting team is going to take a look at it to see how hard it will be to resin cast it (the current one is fiberglass, without my mentor's vacuum worktable I'm super hesitant to sand it back). I guess at the moment I really need to see what needs a remake and what can still be used, but I'm back and keen to finish this project. I may require encouragement, and the approvals climate has changed since last we looked at this project, but I'm keen.

 

Some pics of the bucket as of this writing;

 

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As you can see, it needs some love. But it could be alot worse. From memory, the shoulder bells have been plaster moulded, so I'm going to try to lay down a layer of silicone as a release agent, then slush cast them in urethane. The aim is to translate as many fiberglass parts into urethane or bondoed worbla as possible. I still have to custom make the codpiece and shins and I'm almost 100% sure the gun was destroyed so might hit up some 3D moddlers to have that printed now (the building tech has really changed in 4 years o.o). More pics to come when I get the box out of storage :)

 

Well, thanks for reading, and I'm quite certain we'll get this project finally finished!

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Alrighties, an update on what has survived storage! All in all, it's held up alright. There are a few things that I need to repair, and alot I'm considering rebuilding due to advancements in 3D printing, availability of thermoplastics and just in my general building skill as well. I've taken the existing CRL Izzi posted back when I started, and I'll use it to establish a new starting point for this armour. I am very aware that the requirements will change as we get closer to submitting it for approval. If anyone has suggestions, I'm always open to them, and if any GMLs or the LMO are reading this, I am very keen for your input.

 

My 2AM brain couldn't let me sleep for thinking about this project, first time in a long time. So I just had to get online and post :P Here we go!

 

Aquatic Assault Trooper (Seatrooper) CRL

 

ARMOR

(All hard armor may be white gloss, semi-gloss, or weathered)

* Chest Plate: Scout style chest plate

* Back Plate: Scout style back without tank. Tank is replaced by the Air tanks described below. No permanent flashing lights or LED's are acceptable anywhere on the costume.

 

Initially, we made this one piece for stability of the cardboard prototype and ease of casting the fiberglass prototype. In retrospect, this wasn't the greatest idea. I never was a fan of how it sat, and now, pulling it out of storage, the straps bend the wrong way (but I think that's how it always was). Should be higher at the back. Because this part is all fiberglass and still needs alot of work, I'm most likely going to take reference measurements from it and start from scratch, using card or a stiff foam as a base, then worbla, then lots of rondo/bondo work to give it a smooth armour feel.

 

I always thought the look between chest plate and back plate was seamless, however, on reviewing the reference images, that is not clear. So I think it should be ok to split it like the TB torso armour, as that is what the Seatrooper approximates.

 

th_20160922_035901_zpsbcgywnzj.jpg th_20160922_035927_zpsd2mbs5ne.jpg th_20160922_035912_zpszgocb7s8.jpg (green lines are rough split lines.)

 

** Air Tanks: Consists of a rectangular box with two air canisters on top. A control pad rests between and slightly overlaps the canisters.

 

This part was largely finished when it went into storage. Since then, it has warped slightly on the edges. I'm not 100% happy with how it is now, the domes are bumpy (I pepakuraed them originally, so they were never going to be smooth) the holes on the control panel aren't perfectly round, and the side warping is going to be difficult to fix (as it is fiberglass). I feel I can do better now, so again, thinking of using the original prototype for measurement reference and making a new one from ABS sheets, PVC pipe and 3D printing the domes.

 

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* Shoulder bells: Scout style

 

Incorrect. I'd like to make a change to this CRL as they are more pointed, similar to a TK's shoulder bells, but without the central ridge. I think I have mentioned this previously. In the V1 of this costume, we actually got a discarded pull of TK shoulder bells from the local vac formers and removed that ridge, casting a fiberglass buck. As it still has a bit of flaring on the edges, I'm considering silicone moulding these, slush casting a set from that mould then refining the edges.

 

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* Bicep armor: Scout style. Must have black t-bits.

 

I have an old set of scout biceps that I am using. There is a shield bit that appears to be added laterally though. (Pic in next section)

 

* Elbow armor: Scout style

 

Again, I'd like to make a change to the CRL. The shape of the elbow armour looks the same as the scout armour, however, in one of the references, a rectangular pattern can be seen. So in the past, I've outlined a TK forearm with the shape of the TB elbow armour with the intention to cut it down. My argument here is that the central pattern on the armour in universe likely has a similar appearance to the TK's (as they are presumably from the same manufacturer). Happy to have a discussion on this point though. There's going to be a bit of that.

 

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* Belt: 2" webbing belt with buckle and 4 utility case combination attached to the front. A thermal detonator is not present. No permanent flashing lights, or colored marking other than black bits are acceptable.

 

Unfortunately, the belt wasn't with the rest of the stuff in storage. Pretty sure I missed it in the GNK droid I kept parts in, hopefully it is still there as it was 100% finished and probably the only part I was not going to have to remake or edit. It probably should be noted here that there is one drop box on either side that should be made to match the visual references.

 

*Cod plate: Should be made to match the detailed West End Game visual references

* Buttplate: Should be made to match the detailed West End Game visual references

* Knee armor: Scout style knee are should be used and be affixed to the top of the greaves

* Shin Armor (greaves): Should be made to match the detailed West End Game visual references

 

All of these parts need to be made from scratch. I have the plaster mould of one leg, and a fiberglass version of the other, but they both need alot of work (the mould has been damaged) and probably more effort than required. The V1 parts will be used for measurements and references.

 

HELMET

* Modified Scout Helmet : Helmet may be white gloss, semi-gloss, or weathered

* Air tubes: 2 two ribbed hoses that go from each side of the snout to the repective sides of the tank.

* Ears: May Must be closed off resembling the West End Games reference.

** Dome: May Must have a raised dome with a "sensor array" resembling the West End Games reference pictures.

*White Biker Scout helmet: Don Post/Rubies Licensed replica acceptable. These additional modifications will also need to be done to this helmet:

** Remove the logo on the back neck

** Repaint bucket if it's not white (unless you go dirty)

** Replace lens

** Slim facemask if it's flared

** Replace bolts on visor/bucket

** Replace aerator

 

I feel the helmet part of the CRL needs a rewrite. Ultimately, a modified scout bucket needs ALOT of work to remotely match the visual references as the whole structure needs to be altered to accomodate the dome sensor array and different ears. May as well remove the mention of modifying one.

 

SOFT GOODS

* Undersuit: One or two piece compression style body suit. May be a dive suit, UnderArmour or similar style and material.

* Gloves: tight fitting, non-ornamental gloves that match the material of the body suit.

* Cummerbund: Plain white tight fitting material resembling the armor, without any ribbing or ornamental stiching that covers the abdomen. This is recommended but not required.

 

My intention was to always use a TK body suit, elbow length black gloves and a TB cummerbund without the pouches (justification being that this armour closely resembles a TB in the torso). So my cummerbund would differ to the CRL by having the stitched ridges as per a TB cummerbund. Discussion with GMLs & the LMO will clarify this point as the references are vague. My cummberbund has succumbed to mould during storage. My girlfriend assures me she can bleach that out though.

 

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FOOTWEAR

* Fins: White fins modified to resemble the visual references. White or black dive boots may be worn instead, but fins must be carried or attached to the shins or belt of the armor.

 

I never got to researching the boots for the costume. Either custom made, or I'll use existing dive boots as a reference. Stay tuned for this point. The fins however, I am comfortable saying they are Voit Duck Feet. These are fins of the era that the book was illustrated. I tracked down a pair on ebay years ago, and being rubber, I thought they would have perished by now. But nope, they are still very hardy looking. I'll probably have to make a copy of them in card or cast them to remove the lettering and such. The ankle straps will also need to be removed. A system of linking them to the greaves will be investigated so that they can flip up and down, but I imagine for the most part they'll be fixed to the front of the greaves. (Cause I already have a distinct walk in my TK, so why turn that into a waddle?? :P)

 

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WEAPON

* E-11/Speargun Hybrid: built to resemble visual references

 

The moulds for the gun have broken :( That said, I'm not heart broken. The original was very blocky. Something I intended to fix after the first prototype was pulled. As stated previously, I think the best course now is to 3D print the parts, as this will give me the look I'm after.

 

With all that said and done, it's looking remarkably well. I'll get to work during the week and keep you all posted as to my progress :)

 

Funny story, I lost all my local copies of references a few years ago when my harddrive failed. So I jumped on google this morning to find them again. After a few minutes looking through a photobucket album thinking "There's alot of great references for other TX costumes here too", I realized google had linked me to my own bucket... :P

 

As always, I'm keen to hear people's feedback on my thoughts. The gun will probably be the last part I get to, but if anyone knows of a super beginners tutorial for 3D modeling, I'd love to have a look. I've tried to learn 3 times now, but struggle with the tutorials I've followed in the past.

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Worked a bit on the elbow armour tonight. Decided to take a different approach and see what the TB armour with the TK laddering would look like (instead of shaping the TK armour to the TB shape.) Here's a pic comparing the two;

 

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Any opinions?

 

I also filled the back of the TB chest plate, with the intention of sanding the front flat and then cutting the Seatrooper details in. Unfortunately, the only resin I had on hand was translucent resin, so you can't really see anything in the photos. (Click on thumbnails to enlarge ;) )

 

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Second pic is the sketch of the cut lines based on the fiberglassed armour.

 

ABS sheets purchased, so I'll be able to cut out the ladders on the elbow piece and back fill it soon. Then, if the look is right, the elbows will be done. Once the sheets of ABS arrive, I can put the shields on the bicep armour and then I just need the T pieces to complete them. Shoulder bells will be the next casting project, just need to work out how best to sillicone mould them.

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Thought I'd give 3D modelling a go, so I drafted up the greeble piece for the helmet snout. It's a 3 part greeble, the main parts separated so I can vapor bathe the parts to remove the print lines. Then put it all together. Hoping to get a slush cast of my helmet so that it is in urethane and therefore, easier to modify than the fiberglass it currently is. I'll then sand off 5mm from the snout, removing the current sculpted snout so I can replace it with a smoother and more accurate snout piece as moddled above. Finally, bondo around the seams and sanding to get the curve back from the cheeks to the edge of the snout. Something to do while I wait for the ABS for the new backpack to arrive from china and a day off to go get craft foam for the worbla.

 

th_3D%20Snout%20Greeble%20Print%20Preview_zpssfqllyj5.png th_3D%20Snout%20Greeble%20Preview_zpsgrgblf0v.png

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Bit of an update today. Been a busy week at work, but I managed to mock up the cylinder domes for the back pack for consideration by my GMO/one of the LMOs. Bit of discussion about the shape of them in the reference, will keep everyone posted :)

 

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First pic is my initial interpretation of the dome. On discussion with my garrison's XO (housemate) and GMO, it was suggested that the tops may not be spherical and slightly parabollic. So I mocked up some tops with ellipsoids (second pic). Third pic is my justification for using a 30mm dia circle as the tank topper (I'm using a 100mm dia pvc pipe for the tank, though may scale it back to 95mm if I can find that size. The original backpack used 95mm poster tubes and looks more compact.)

 

I think the 60mm ellipsoid best approximates the reference, but will wait to see what my GMO suggests as well. As always, open to feedback from you guys too. Pics here are thumbnails, click for full sized images :)

 

Also, I found the belt in storage. Unfortunately, the news isn't great. It was probably the worst stored part, the webbing has discoloured and stained, and the fiberglass pieces had warped like the backpack did. But it's ok. We have the technology. We can rebuild. In the very least I can pull the measurements and reconstruct them in ABS when that arrives.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit more progress today, I drafted the backpack in 3D to see how it looks when rotated to match the references. Had to do a bit of tweaking to my original backpack plans.

 

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The first side pic and first back pic are the original working design I had in the first iteration of the backpack that was made into a fiberglass mold. From that, I've had to tweak measurements as I can't get PVC to match the diameter I originally used for the tanks. When compared to the side profile of the reference image, I noticed the control panel is not visible in the reference. So I dropped it to sit flush with the top of the tanks. It is still visible when I tilt the model to match the reference, so the only other real option to me is to make the control panel smaller, however, when looking at the reference of the back of the backpack (top left, coloured reference) and comparing to a back view of the model, it panel seems correctly sized. So my justification is that the artist simply forgot to sketch the control panel on the backpack of the side reference.

 

I also raised the side cutouts and made the rectangles smaller, to better match the reference.

 

The only other detail I feel needs justification is the inverted 'T' that appears to be the top of the control panel on the back reference. I don't see how there can be a stem running flush with the top of the control panel to the top of the backpack, and still have the tank causing the shadow on the reference. Again, my justification for this is artist error.

 

Also worked out a potential way to smooth over the top of worbla to give it an armor-like surface (instead of its course texture) so I'll whip up the shoulder bells and give it a crack.

 

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I've spent the last few days working at the helmet. I got together with the local build team, initially to discuss rotocasting the helmet, but it was decided that vac forming it would be a better option. So we cut the helmet in half :( with the intention of doing it as a three-piece kit.

 

I then spent two days filling the interior of the parts with plaster (to strengthen them for the vac forming machine), stripping paint and building up the back of the bucket as it was a touch asymmetrical (the green/grey parts are the built up bits). We decided the front of the bucket was fine and the face plate will be separate. Tomorrow I'm meeting with them again, this time to cut out the tube connectors on the face plate and finalize the moulds. Hopefully, if things run to schedule, the first pull will happen by the end of the month. Progress pic below!

 

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The boys have also offered me plaster copies of their TK and TB moulds to modify so the whole kit can be vac formed. The legs and backpack will still need to be custom made, but if everything is being vacformed, the reality of this becoming a kit is pretty high. Watch this space :)

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Dude, I don't know about any others, but I would LOVE to make this kit one day! I hope it becomes a reality!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Still have alot of work to do, but if I can plough though it this week and the shipment of ABS arrives, we should have the first plastic prototype helmet pulled next weekend, at least of the body of the helmet. I've gotta run to work, but I'll upload a pic tomorrow showing the helmet's current state. Then it's just a matter of getting the other part moulds made. Hoping to have it all done and submitted by January since the Dreamworld weekend (closest thing Aus has to a celebration at the moment) was confirmed to be coming back next year. Gotta have it approved for that :)

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More progress today. Unfortunately, the weather changed and I couldn't do as much as I wanted to get done. A side note, we decided that the little rectangle thingies on the sides of the front part of the helmet should actually be recessed, similar to the ears on the TB helmet. So we sliced them off.

 

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Things to do before weekend;

 

Back of helmet:

- Patch up sculpted part from today (ruptured through to plaster layer which I knew would happen. Just have to smooth it)

- Tidy up edges for vac forming

- Spray putty

- Carve cut line

 

Front of helmet:

- Tidy up edges for vac forming (lots to do here)

- Carve side vents

- Spray putty

- Carve cut line

 

The faceplate still needs a bit of work, so if we get to vac forming this weekend, it may not be on the list of things to do. We shall see. Time is a little tight for me this week, so if I can get the bulk of the helmet done, then I'll have another week or so to just focus on the faceplate.

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Alright! Vacforming of the helmet body has begun!

 

20161023_062622_zps6jogpcwv.jpg 20161023_062630_zpsztfyzvza.jpg

 

Can anybody say Shadow Seatrooper? ;)

 

We pulled these two parts in black HIPS as this was just the test, and everyone expected the first attempt to tear on the corners at the top as they are so sharp. But, to everyone's surprise, the parts pulled extremely well! Just need to heat the corners a bit to make sure all the lines are sharp. Then we're going to back fill these parts with plaster to create the final bucks for the vacforming machine and then to the final pull in white HIPS or ABS.

 

There is a video of us pulling the front half here;

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Still working, it's been a busy two months. Haven't had much progress, though I have the plaster moulds to work on from the test pulls of the helmet body. The plaster bubbled, so lots of holes to fill, and not alot of time spare in the lead up to Christmas. :(

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  • 5 months later...

Hello

I got a chance to scroll through your build thread and have seen your work on this costume very impressive.

Are you continuing to work on this costume?

We are in the process of working on the CRL soon.

Thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yep, still going on it, just haven't had a whole lot of spare time lately :( I am hoping to have some more progress on it soon as the boys who have been helping me vacform have graciously offered me copies of their TB and TK moulds to modify for the parts that are similar. They only just finished both of those projects so those copies should come along soon. Meanwhile I've been trying my hand at 3D modelling. I've been running into some hurdles with the local CRL team and some details on the helmet. If I can't get back over to the build team to finish off the helmet in the next few weekends I might have to 3D model it as the mods are easier made in the sculpting phase than the post fiberglass phase. It would also help with the symmetry. But hoping to see them this weekend or next all things going to plan.

 

The 3D modelling that I have been able to do was the belt buckle and the dropboxes. Just have to pick them up from the printer, clean up the print lines and then make a vac forming plug :) That part I can do on my own so those parts will be easy. Then just have to chat with the build team about vacforming it.

 

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Still hoping to have this finished soon, just haven't had alot of free time since Christmas as I had hoped. And when I do, the build team who I need for assistance fixing up the bucket for vacforming haven't been free -.- Shouldn't have cut it in half until the details were confirmed.

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As it stands progress on the kit is;

 

Helmet:- In three pieces. It was decided by my local CRL team that the front outside panels on the side with the little rectangle are actually angled sweeps and the rectangle is a cut out similar to the ears on the TB helmet. This is the main modification that I still need to make as now it has been said, I can't get it out of my head and it looks better/makes more sense than what I originally sculpted. The problem however is that the angle for the sweep starts right on the seamline between the two plugs and I want/need the guys who cut the helmet in half to line it up properly (should have rotocast it...)

 

The mould for the front half in addition to the sweeps needing adding was damaged when I removed the plastic from the plaster mould and it ripped up the top of the sensor array, so that needs fixing as well, though relatively that is easy. However, due to the two issues, I think I may need to learn how to 3D model the helmet to prevent future approval suggestions.

 

Torso, Backplate and Pelvis: Haven't started. Will need to modify vacform moulds from a TK & TB which are being supplied for this purpose.

 

Shoulder Bells: Moulds complete, ready to go.

 

Arms: Need to mod TB moulds. Again, they are being supplied for this purpose.

 

Legs: The OTHER big sticking point. In discussions with my CRL team about making them similar to Shoretrooper legs. Need opinions and views of other people though. Would a 'E' shaped system that straps over TK shins be acceptable? Camlocks were suggested by my garrison CRL team here, however, there is no detailing to suggest they are there. A similar argument could be made about the shoretrooper-like shins. There are no seams on the reference pics for the seatrooper, so in order to maintain a seamless approach, the shins need to be oversized which look stupid. The current prototype fails to hit the visual mark (should be a photo in the thread, otherwise will upload later today) as it just looks cumbersome. Need to start a discussion me thinks.

 

Boots: Need to find soft white boots. Low priority at this stage.

 

Belt Boxes and Buckle: 3D Print done, just need to make vac forming moulds.

 

Fins: Originals obtained, just need to make moulds.

 

Soft Parts: In the works. Gloves and undersuit done, need cummerbund as last one went mouldy in storage.

 

Backpack: The blueprints are done and scale seems accurate. Started out making the panels, but discovered that the pipes I was using weren't uniformly round and the wall thickness also wasn't uniform, so my 3D printed tank toppers did not fit. Plan is to 3D print a prototype tank with the topper included, then mould it and make a rotocasting mould. Then all tanks for the kits would be pulled that way and slot into the backpack smoothly.

 

Blaster: Need to start 3D modelling.

 

I think that's it. Need to run to work. Will try to update further shortly :)

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  • 1 month later...

Got the kit out again, the workshop guys are back into their stuff again after some lengthy illness and so I could tag along and get some more work done. Bells are ready to be pulled and then have the final moulds made. Same with the back of the helmet. I'm spending the next few days finalizing the drop boxes and belt buckle for vacforming at the next build day and hopefully fit in finishing off the backpack as I had custom printed tanks made (as my PVC pip attempts were failing). More pics to come soon :)

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Ok, so I've been working on finding an imaging hosting solution since photobucket died. Couldn't get imgur to work, so using Facebook in the meantime.

 

Put some hours in to the backpack over the last few days. Still lots to do on it, but in the comparison pic, the old backpack is on the right with the new one built from ABS on the left. Note the much better tanks on the new one compared to the old one.

 

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Just have to finish sanding the right tank back (PLA sucks...) so it can slot in properly and finish cutting the rectangles on the side. In the next comparison photo, I have the old hose connector (basic) compared to a fitting that I was going to use for a Kir Kanos glaive. The glaive fitting is larger, but will comfortably hold the hose. I like it as it makes the hose fitting look much larger and I think matches the reference better than the previously used fitting.

 

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Old fitting at top, new fitting on bottom.

 

The plan is to rotocast out the final backpack, once this one gets all its gaps filled and looks shiny.

 

Don't have pics yet, but the belt boxes and buckle moulds and the shoulder moulds are ready to go, so vacforming those in the next week or so.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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