Imperial Army Trooper - Andor - CRL Discussion

[neoakaj[TX]]

2 minutes ago, Blackwatch said:

Thank you Shane

these are great and tell the tale. 

SO, the buckles aren't exactly chrome. They have a bit of grit to them. And the soles are smooth like my old boots that I had re-soled.  I sure would love to know where they obtain all these boots from.  If they are actual, real vintage boots, or made by a boot supply vendor for movie use. 

I would highly doubt they are using vintage in the newer shows and movies

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

me too, i mean thats OLD leather and would fall apart. Would love to know who builds them. 

[Vanedor[501st]]

5 hours ago, Blackwatch said:

me too, i mean thats OLD leather and would fall apart. Would love to know who builds them. 

Well, the original they used for the OT weren't WW2 jackboots but more West-German army from the '60-'70, if I remember well. I suspect there are huge stock of such surplus boots all over Europe the military stored in case the cold war became "warm". I bought mine from a surplus store in Poland. They are certainly pretty old... and still in a fairly good shape.

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

Heading us back towards the boot, so we can complete this first Andor CRL before the end of year, one last look at the boots, with the line about hobnails present since we cannot confirm they actually exist on any of the Andor used boots. 

Change Log 1.1

Boots Calf high black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. If seams are present on the shaft they are at the rear only. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional. Jackboot buckles should not be shiny/can be painted dingy grey or gun-metal color. Hobnails may be present on the front of the jackboots. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. German "jack boot" style boots are most canon.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather.

 

 

Once we have this nailed down, we can post for further public review, and package it up and send it to the LMO for review.  Then it is up to the LMO.  We have to have one made for the CRL model- to the L2 level- so you Troopers with pieces and parts on order and in production are up on deck first.  Once you have all your components photographed, the CRL will be ready to go live with LMOs approval. 

[Vanedor[501st]]

4 hours ago, Blackwatch said:

Heading us back towards the boot, so we can complete this first Andor CRL before the end of year, one last look at the boots, with the line about hobnails present since we cannot confirm they actually exist on any of the Andor used boots. 

Change Log 1.1

Boots Calf high black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. If seams are present on the shaft they are at the rear only. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional. Jackboot buckles should not be shiny/can be painted dingy grey or gun-metal color. Hobnails may be present on the front of the jackboots. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. German "jack boot" style boots are most canon.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather.

 

 

Once we have this nailed down, we can post for further public review, and package it up and send it to the LMO for review.  Then it is up to the LMO.  We have to have one made for the CRL model- to the L2 level- so you Troopers with pieces and parts on order and in production are up on deck first.  Once you have all your components photographed, the CRL will be ready to go live with LMOs approval. 

Perfect.

[TeaJay[TX]]

Looks great to me. Glad we got all this hard work nailed down.

Sorry for my absence of late. Our house had another major multi-pipe burst from the cold. Damaging multiple rooms, so my focus has unfortunately shifted to home repairs, hiring contractors, and dealing with the insurance company. 

I have all my armor now for this build and was hoping to help with CRL photos, but not sure when I will get time to start the build.

Looking forward to next steps news! Keep us posted!

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

TJ thats horrible! absolutely no need to apologize, this is all for fun and real life and burst pipes come first! 

With armor in hand, as well as your dye work, i believe you are in the front of the group.  I know all about being a CRL model and all the changes needed, hopefully we will get through the process quickly.  Im printing my armor, it will take days to print, and even more days to post process. 

 

With the input above, I believe we are finished with the Boots section, and with the CRL in general. I will post the boots into the original post in this topic, and provide a link.  

Please, everyone reading this, go look at the first post in the topic with all the finalized text and review it. If you see anything please post it here so we can correct it. 

 

Ive said it before, Ill say it again, thank you for your efforts! 

[bubuc44]

Gréât work guys ! And good luck @TeaJay.. not funny but was in your situations several seconds month before had to rebuilt the entire bathroom.

Regarding the soft version as mine is ready (will just have to change gloves) do you want me to re do pictures ? 
 

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

Alexandre

the only one we are ready to submit will be the armored variant, that needs to go through first then we can work the others, I believe Rix Road security troopers are next on the list. 

I would say lay everything out and photograph it for the CRL.  All components, several shots, against a plain white background with no shadows showing. I had to do this several times for my CRL. Photograph as the highest possible quality you can get.  We will dump everthing into a drive and load to the CRL template once we are ready. 

[Detaleader[501st]]

Oh dear, good luck @TeaJay! 

@Blackwatch Boots section looks good to me

[pm07[TX]]

David, 
The helmet on the 1st page has extra letters.  'Helmetmu'   

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

thank you Shane! 

[fb501[TX]]

Sorry been out with a bad case of the flu.

 

For us extras we had replica boots made of cheap pleather. They were horrible and had thin soles. No hobnails or buckles for us. They were quite baggy too.

 

I imagine the cast members are who you see with nicer more comfortable real boots

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

WOW, pleather, jeeez. It makes sense , but yuck.  Feel better Fraser!

[Vanedor[501st]]

On 1/2/2023 at 7:13 AM, fb501 said:

For us extras we had replica boots made of cheap pleather. They were horrible and had thin soles. No hobnails or buckles for us. They were quite baggy too.

Ow. 

But as far as this CRL is concerned, I don't think we should try to base our standards on this 😉

[fb501[TX]]

43 minutes ago, Vanedor said:

Ow. 

But as far as this CRL is concerned, I don't think we should try to base our standards on this 😉

Oh not at all haha, but the helmeted guys I was with was all plain sided leather boots no buckles and no hobnails as I think that was a question that came up.

 

I will certainly be going for just standard leather jack boots with my version with some nice insoles to be far more comfy than I was 🤣

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

so now we need someone to build the first one so we can submit to the LMO as a package. 

[Vanedor[501st]]

14 minutes ago, Blackwatch said:

so now we need someone to build the first one so we can submit to the LMO as a package. 

As far as I'm concerned, I have the boots, the pants/tunic/cap (ordered from Imperial boots) are getting resized at a local seamstress, the gloves... I have a regular belt but I have ordered one with grooves. The thing I don't have at  hand for the unarmored costume are the belt boxes. I'm thinking of getting some printed instead of painting the metal one I already have.

I also have the hard parts ordered but I'm not sure when it's going to arrive.

Should we discuss the blaster here?

[neoakaj[TX]]

3 minutes ago, Vanedor said:

As far as I'm concerned, I have the boots, the pants/tunic/cap (ordered from Imperial boots) are getting resized at a local seamstress, the gloves... I have a regular belt but I have ordered one with grooves. The thing I don't have at  hand for the unarmored costume are the belt boxes. I'm thinking of getting some printed instead of painting the metal one I already have.

I also have the hard parts ordered but I'm not sure when it's going to arrive.

Should we discuss the blaster here?

Whos you hard parts by?

And if we start talking blasters, here or somewhere else, I am game.

[Vanedor[501st]]

3 minutes ago, neoakaj said:

Whos you hard parts by?

And if we start talking blasters, here or somewhere else, I am game.

Walt's trooper factory

[neoakaj[TX]]

2 minutes ago, Vanedor said:

Walt's trooper factory

I have a helmet coming from him. Hopefully they will get your stuff sent soon

[TeaJay[TX]]

I'm still dealing with my house repair drama, but last night I spent 2 hours cutting out most of my hard armor kit. All of the major excess plastic is off of it. Still a while to go.

I have all the soft goods on-hand from Imperial Boots, I have the grooved belt with R1 era code disk, r1 era belt boxes, dents gloves, and black jackboots that I could take pictures of at some point.

I'm doing the soft cap version with the armor. My armor kit is from Imperial Surplus. I really love the improvements to Kevin's kits recently for the Solo/R1/Mando era work.

I've got a lot of trimming, sanding, gluing, painting, ahead of me...

 

I can try to get all the soft part photos taken and do the work to make the backgrounds transparent if that is still needed. My beltboxes are metal and they need to be painted. I have the paint for them but its too cold right now for spray paint and I have no garage.

[Vanedor[501st]]

For the hard parts, I still hesitate concerning the color to use.

 

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

Simon youre going to have to experiment with the colors in the agreed upon color ranges.  

Ultimately whoever gets the hard bitz done first will set the gold standard for color, but we all know photography changes everyhing. 

Simon is right and we can discuss the blaster here. 

 

Blaster

Change Log 1.0

E-10 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300 or replica) mounted on left side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Magazine may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders. The righthand side of the barrel features a rectangle box with two antenna. The top antenna is longer than the bottom. A rocker switch is present on top of the box. The box may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. Scope rail is fitted on a rear blocks while the front of the rail is angled to join the top of the barrel.   Scope is a M1938 1943 version.  Either one or two scope rings can be mounted on the scope rail. The barrel features a folding foregrip. A folding stock is in place. Webbing sling is attached with snap hook buckles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring). Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. Web sling is fitted with 1" (25mm) 316 stainless steel marine webbing snap hooks.

[neoakaj[TX]]

8 hours ago, TeaJay said:

 

I'm doing the soft cap version with the armor. My armor kit is from Imperial Surplus. I really love the improvements to Kevin's kits recently for the Solo/R1/Mando era work.

I've got a lot of trimming, sanding, gluing, painting, ahead of me…

Take your time on the collar and where the shoulder bridges slot in on the chest. I nearly boned my shoulder set up because my hand slipped when cutting the slots on the chest. 
 

let me know if you need anything from me from the armor side