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RAIDER

Detachment Costume Advisor[CMD-DCA]
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  1. Well in that case, let's get a write up of the back/chest knocked out this weekend and move on to the last pieces. I'm at work today, so if someone can modify the original text proposal w/ an update, I (we) can look it over tonight and tomorrow to get those pieces wrapped up.
  2. Thanks for all the additional pictures @JAFO. Still focusing on the back at the moment...hose connectors confirmed. Black foam wings confirmed. Drop down belt loop confirmed...wouldn't say it's a trapezoid shape (probably the angle of the shot that makes it appear so). The only thing I am not seeing in the reference pics is the greeblie at the top center of the pack. Unless other images through the blu-ray or otherwise become available, we can't require details that can't be seen. That being said, we can still proceed w/ Level 1 requirements on the chest/back as the parka will cover those. We can make adjustments to the CRL if images become available a) as Level 2 adds or b) as Level 1 updates if the evidence is overwhelming. Hope that makes sense. So with that, it seems the majority of the debated items are confirmed. Let's nail down wording for those and move on to the helmet/mask/hoses in the next few days. P.S. With the blu-ray release in the near future we may be able to catch any updates in the final review process before the CRL goes live.
  3. @Blackwatch I'm ok w/ keeping hearing protection. It's clearly there. The screw caps are all over the place. @Scubacat Thoughts on how to go about wording the requirement for those? And clarifying those straps...you're suggesting that they be mounted to the pack straps (though not necessarily functional)? They could also just be the functional pack straps themselves or no?
  4. @Blackwatch Yes disregard the color...I think I misread something somewhere and combined the coat/tunic color w/ the armor color. I should have it straightened out on the proposal thread now. Read the input thus far and will look it over tonight with the references. If anyone has more to add, drop a word.
  5. And with that...let's move to the chest/back...here is what was initially presented (currently no L2 requirements): Chest Plate Chest Armor matches visual references. Accurate shape/design to front of chest. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attached to upper chest plate. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. To the lower Left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area with a greeblie installed to match reference picture Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest and straps shall be painted olive grey and be moderately weathered. back plate and tubes. Back Plate Back Plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. Chest and back plate meet at the sides. Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside. The walls and floor the recesses shall be olive grey. Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside to match Rogue One backplates. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. The floor of the cut out shall be black and the walls inside match the olive grey color of the armor. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recess. There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are olive grey with moderate weathering and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. Back plate is olive grey with moderate weathering.
  6. Understood. How are we looking here then (keeping in mind we will revisit the color wording again in final review)? Shoulder Bells Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shoulders should have a longer flat edge that covers top of bicep with a shorter flat edge that connects to chest armor Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Biceps Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with a added strip layer on top. Left bicep is matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Right bicep armor is painted red with three yellow squares on the cover strip, with moderate weathering. Biceps shall have moderate weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Right Bicep Red color is Toyota Red 3E5. Yellow color is Montana Gold Shock Yellow.
  7. CRL UPDATE IS ACTIVE AS OF 5/13/19. PLEASE SEE FINAL CRL PUBLISHED HERE: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_shadow_scout CRL Shadow Scout Required Costume Components Special Notes: The armor parts shall be film-accurate or close approximation in gloss, semi-gloss, satin, or matte black, weathering is not acceptable. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. The following costume components are present and appear as described below. New image Helmet For 501st approval: Eye Lens in black, dark green or silver mirrored Helmet may have scout detailing or left plain if detailing is present it is black or dark grey [*]Licensed helmets are acceptable with modifications: any deformation of the helmet shape (helmet flare) is corrected remove the manufacturer logo replace stock lens replace inaccurate "fish-hook" logo replace stock bolts with flat-disc "elevator" bolts replace inaccurate aerator. repaint to match armor [*]Fan-made helmets are acceptable as long as they remain true to shape of original screen accurate helmet. For level two certification (if applicable): Details are the correct color and placed as shown. Film-accurate scout details are present, either painted or decals. They should be contrasting the rest of the helmet Film-accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted a contrasting black to the armor. Film-accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder" Film-accurate helmet snout/aerator detail, mounted onto a plate and painted a contrasting black to the helmet Film-accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern Film-accurate three lines on center of forehead area [*]No mesh material mounted in the ears. [*]Properly shaped ear holes are installed. [*]Black 3M bolts or replicas of in the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). [*]No visible seams on the dome. [*]Optional: Chin cup Existing image Balaclava For 501st approval: A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. Existing image Flight Suit For 501st approval: The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately. Stand-up collar which conceals the neck and with enclosing strap to keep the collar closed. Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund, rectangle in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stop slightly higher than the bottom edge of the troopers backside. Suede or faux suede thigh patches must be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 50mm (2") black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch. See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below. Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets). For level two certification (if applicable): Suit is fairly fitted and not baggy. Real black suede square/ rectangular butt patch attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund will sit and resemble those seen on screen, size will adjust slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale must be noted, no external visible stitching. Size will differ slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale is maintained. Existing image Shoulder Armor For 501st approval: Black Elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. They do not have any adornment. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around bicep with a 12mm (1/2") black elastic strap. Bottom corners are rounded. Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops Existing image Upper Arm Armor For 501st approval: Armor has a recessed area with a "t-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. For level two certification (if applicable): Film-accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to armor T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm. Armor is secured around the arm with a 35mm ( 1.5") black elastic strap. Existing image Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around the arm with a 25mm ( 1") black elastic strap. Existing image Gloves For 501st approval: Black leather and gauntlet length. Detailed gloves include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. [*]There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps. For level two certification (if applicable): Real black suede leather padding on fingers and inside of thumb and correct gauntlet stitching. New image Vest For 501st approval: Made out of black, matte finish, heavy weight cotton fabric. Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund. The sleeves are just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor. Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit. Secured at the back using 50mm (2") black hook and loop fastener. For level two certification (if applicable): The vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund. New image Chest Armor For 501st approval: There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that may be painted contrasting black or left unfinished. The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a loop of black fabric. The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with black webbing or elastic. For level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of black cotton webbing. Nylon webbing is inaccuate [*]Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 40mm (1.5") black webbing or elastic strap. New image Back Armor For 501st approval: The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the seen used armor Top detail piece is painted full matte black The tank has a contrasting black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 6 stripes. For level two certification (if applicable): Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible. Only 1, 4 or 6 stripes on tank are acceptable. Bullet tank on the back armor has film-accurate greeblie tank topper detail. Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. Tank topper is secured with single black colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment black rivet. Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable. New image Cummerbund For 501st approval: Made from matt black, heavy weight cotton fabric. Closes in back with 50mm (2") hook and loop fastener. Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist. There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund. Has a tapered cod section with inverted curve sewn in detail. (not chevron) Made from the same material as the bund [*]Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a 50mm (2") black elastic strap. [*]Front of cummerbund has 5-6 equal ribs stitch, centered between the two fabric pouches according to wearers size. [*]ribs are of equal width. [*]ribs are completely visible between the pouches. [*]poches mounted to touch the chest armor. [*]pouches slightly overlaps the belt. [*] Pouches are made of matching black fabric For level two certification (if applicable): The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest. There is no visible external edge stitching on the bund, the cod or pouch flaps. Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch. Pouch Size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang. Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL or Costumes book. Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area. Optional: codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the undersuit. New image Belt and Detonator For 501st approval: The front and two "boxes" of the belt are made of hard material. The remainder of the belt that fastens at the back of the waist, is made from a textile material (webbing). Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes (drop boxes). Drop boxes are also made from plastic. Drop boxes are connected to the belt via black textile straps. [*]Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular thermal detonator box with short black corrugated hose. [*]The correct thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. [*]The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the left side of the detonator, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. [*]On the right hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper. [*]See the detonator detail page for a close up image of the greeblies. [*]The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 50mm (2") black cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single black rivet For level two certification (if applicable): The belt is made from a one-piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended. The straps to attached the drop boxes to the belt are made from 40mm (1 1/2") black cotton webbing Nylon webbing is inaccuate Drop boxes hang at the correct distance from the belt [*]The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 50mm (2") black cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single black rivet [*]Thermal Detonator end caps to be concave and not flat. [*]Optional: Thermal Detonator must have visible black clips attaching it to the web belt, as seen in the film. [*]Optional: Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube. Existing image Knee Armor For 501st approval: Knees are gray to match the snout. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. For level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has two elastic straps: The first is 25mm (1") wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor. The second is 12mm (1/2") wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor Rivets are black in color New image Boots For 501st approval: Black marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance. Slightly textured vinyl is acceptable. [*]The soles of the boot are black. [*]A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. [*]The boots are secured up the back using 25mm (1") black hook and loop fastener. [*]The calf of the boot rises to just slightly underneath the bottom of the knee armor. For level two certification (if applicable): The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen on the references. The boot sole is a single black color with no visible stitching. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Boots made using the "boot tutorial" (available on BSN.net) are the only boots accepted. Existing image Holster For 501st approval: Attached to the outside right side of the right boot with black rivets. Not straps. [*]The blaster pistol fits into the holster For level two certification (if applicable): Attached with four black colored rivets. There is no rank striping visible. Optional Accessoires: Existing image Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. For level two certification (if applicable): Prohibited for a accurate style costume Existing image E-11 Blaster For 501st approval: Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. [*]A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. [*]D-ring mounted on the rear. [*]Correct style scope. [*]Two power cylinders on the magazine. [*]Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). [*]If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. [*]This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. Existing image Hold-out Blaster For 501st approval: Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. No decals representing cross hairs or similar. No drilled barrels. The screen used ones did not have drilled barrels. Kenner toy blasters, modified Kenner toy blasters or resin recasts of Kenner toy blasters are not acceptable due to the fact they are approximately 10% larger in scale than an accurate style blaster.
  8. @izzi!!! Awesome! I understand the logic there on the shovel. Makes sense. It is absent in several of the pack examples in the panels though. Could it be just as safe to assume that the sappers are working as demolition "teams" and therefore not every trooper would need/have the shovel? The shovel handle itself does appear to creep up above the top edge of the pack and even on frontal views of the troopers not all have the handle peeking up there (pre-dig panel). Playing some devil's advocate there I suppose. Just a thought. I'm prob the minority on that one lol.
  9. Yes @TX-15293 I like those as configs of the pack for L2. Thanks for laying those out. Also...thanks for clarifying what that was on the chest. Chest pouch. Got it. Going through the panels, that DOES NOT appear on every trooper. Some have no pack at all. This is currently not listed as an optional accessory though. Thoughts? In regards to @Blackwatch question...yes I think we should try if at all possible to have configs of pouches and gear match for L2 depending on the type of backpack being used. If we can't do that, then we may need to snub the idea altogether. May need to hit up @izzi and/or the LMO for feedback on that. So If I'm correct, we can clearly identify 2 pack configs (for now I will nickname them Shovel and No-Shovel). Can we see the pouch configs for each of those troopers?
  10. To clarify the process here (as it was discussed above), we are going through section by section. I am pulling the proposal of each section to the end part of the thread to discuss...when that area has a) sufficient input or b) sufficient time, I am moving what is settled on to the pinned proposal thread at the top of the Imperial Army section in the forums for a final review later. I am trying to allow AT MINIMUM a week (7 days) for people to chime in. For example..today marks the 7th day of the biceps and shoulders. Ok...hope that clears up any confusion. I do want to reiterate the general stance of Izzi, myself, and the CRL team...that while we want to complete the CRL in a timely manner, our priority is getting it right. We are making a concerted effort to avoid having to going back and making major adjustments to the CRL (as happened with the previous Imperial Army CRL). Sooooooo....with that said, I'm not set on the discussion regarding color. Here is what I believe we have offered up on that...I've highlighted what still doesn't seem settled. I am in agreement with @amcclary (I think) that specifying paint brands and pantones may be too limiting (which I believe Izzi may have mentioned earlier as well). I have it in for now, but this will be something we address again in the final review when I can get some more input from @izzi and Torri @Scubacat Shoulder Bells Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shoulders should have a longer flat edge that covers top of bicep with a shorter flat edge that connects to chest armor Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted matte green olive grey (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Biceps Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with a added strip layer on top. Left bicep is matte green olive grey (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Right bicep armor is painted red with three yellow squares on the cover strip, with moderate weathering. Biceps shall have moderate weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Right Bicep Red color is Toyota Red 3E5. Yellow color is Montana Gold Shock Yellow. Final comments on these parts welcome before I move them over to the proposal tomorrow.
  11. @Blackwatch Yes you summarized what I was trying to say perfectly lol. L1 create a base standard (and it seems we have set those parameters somewhat already in the original write-up) and L2 reference specific panel configs of the pack....that's just an idea. @pm07 This goes back to my original question regarding pack. If the look can be achieved and the frame can be hidden, can that work (for L1?)? It's hard to say until it's built, BUT the panels do seem to reflect a frame-less pack for sure and so that would be what we would write-up methinks. I see Neal's pouches and the E-11 holster question, but I'm going to keep focus on the pack till we are set on that before moving elsewhere.
  12. I know several of you are chomping at the bit…we will take critiques and input still on the parka and belts (and I'd like to give everything a good look over once I have solid internet where pictures don't take forever to load)…but in the meantime we can move forward with the armor pieces. Let's begin with the shoulders and biceps. Here is what was initially proposed: Shoulder Bells Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shoulders should have a longer flat edge that covers top of bicep with a shorter flat edge that connects to chest armor Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted olive grey with moderate weathering. Biceps Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with a added strip layer on top. Left bicep is olive grey with moderate weathering. Right bicep armor is painted red with three yellow squares on the cover strip, with moderate weathering. Biceps shall have moderate weathering.
  13. I am moved BUT do not have internet service setup yet (hopefully this weekend). Using a temp hotspot to post tonight lol. Anyways, here is where we are at then regarding the updates: PARKA: Russian Plash Palatka Style. Parka is Dyed or Painted black. Metal grommets shall be painted or covered with leather to mimic leather grommets. Tied or otherwise attached under the chest armor and worn to cover the back plate. Parka shall be heavily weathered. OPTIONAL: Level 2 certification (if applicable) Ring Grommets shall be leather to match reference photos. UPPER BELT - LEATHER: The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or a leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) from the buckle. The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the wearer. The buckle is a standard officer buckle. Buckle is adorned with an Imperial Code Disk at the center. Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles. Two boxes shall be present on either side of buckle. Dimensions are approximately 2" (50.8mm) by 3" (76.2mm) by 1" (24.5mm). Boxes shall be painted the same color as the chest plate and heavily weathered. Belt shall be weathered appropriately. LOWER BELT - WEBBING: Belt is black and is made from two nylon web straps sewn together with a zig-zag pattern which is approximately 3" (76.2mm) wide. The belt features five boxes. 1 x standard drop box, 2 x small, 2 x medium, 1 x long drop box. Boxes shall be painted the same colour as the chest plate and moderately weathered. Belt shall be worn loose across lower abdomen. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Long drop box is hinged
  14. In the current write-up, I see where it states the top tube is required (though there is an example of a pack sans top tube)…could be one requirement even though it's not in every single panel? Then following, I see where we have written that there should be EITHER the long tube on right OR the pack (1 requirement for base there). Then below that, EITHER a shovel or string of charges or both (2nd requirement)…with 2 total charges combined minimum. So while it's not a rigid base standard pack, the requirements seem clear cut enough. Here's a bit of a different idea…the MEPD sandy pack CRL uses this line... Option: If choosing to replicate a screen used configuration of equipment, specific style backpacks are required. It then links to the several specific screen used configurations of the pack/ammo pouches. Do something similar to what we see demonstrated in the panels as accurate configurations…leaving other configurations using options as Level 1? One last item... Left trooper…what do we have there on his chest? Is that a chest piece attached to the pack harness? Looks like the right trooper has it as well but its cut off in the artwork.
  15. Yes indeed there will be. I'm taking what we construct and moving it to a "Proposal" thread. Once we've gone through it all, I will unlock that thread and we will do a final review (and edits if necessary).
  16. Good update @Blackwatch and thank you for answering my questions. Let's move to the backpack proposal text. If everyone can just go line by line through the CRL and make sure what we have is actually in the art panels (and also see if we missed anything), that would be great...also considering variations and/or Level 2 options. Thanks again team! BACKPACK The Combat Engineer Backpack is used to carry the fundamental tools of the Combat Engineer to successfully plant their explosives or breaching charges. For 501st Approval: The pack has 2" black shoulder straps with rectangular black pads made from nylon, heavy cotton or leather. Four black rectangular boxes matching the size and shape of the source art are mounted to match the angle seen in the source art. No waist belt is present. NOTE: A minimum of two different types of demolition charges outlined below are required for approval. There are five types of demolition charge seen in the source art mounted on the backpack in different locations. Two different types may be mounted to the top of the boxes. The charge mounted to the sides may be mounted to the left or right of the pack. All demolition charges and mounting straps are painted matching grey. Primer grey is acceptable. Webbing or other means of representing the mounting straps will closely match the charge color. No color "warning" stripes or LEDs are permitted on the charges or pack. The right side of the pack shall have either an explosive charge OR a long rectangular pouch with flap mounted as seen in source art. An entrenching shovel , string of small charges or both as seen in the source art shall be mounted to the back of the pack. The first type of top-mounted demolition charge is roughly 4"- 4 ½" diameter with slightly larger end caps and is as wide as the backpack boxes. Both end caps feature 1" wide "coin slots" matching the diameter of the tube. Two grey mounting straps made of textile, plastic or other material are present on this charge. A second charge type seen on top of the backpack is roughly 3.5"- 3.75" diameter and longer than the pack is wide. The beveled ends feature a depressed area with a slightly raised lip, and have 1" wide "coin slots" matching the diameter of the tube. Two mounting straps made of textile, plastic or other material are present on this charge. A third charge type with flattened end caps slightly wider than the charge itself may be mounted to the right or left side of the pack. One Inch wide "Coin slots " are present on the end caps. A fourth type of demolition charge may be mounted to the bottom of the pack. It is almost as wide as the pack boxes and features rounded end caps with a flat spot / depression at the ends of the caps. A depressed circumferential ring feature is between the end cap and the body tube. A fifth type of small demolition charges may be present horizontally along the bottom pack boxes below the shovel if mounted. These four charges are roughly the size of a can of soda, with a 2"-2.5" band around middle. There is an indented ring approximately 3/8" below the top of the charge. The bottom of the charge is flat, the top is a dome and features a raised disc at the top of the dome. It is permissible to use 2"-2 ½" webbing closely matching the color of the charges for the band to hold the charges together in a group. Shovel An entrenching shovel matching the source art may be mounted vertically to the back of the pack . Right side pouch A long black rectangular pouch may be mounted to the right side of the pack, replacing the demolition charge described above. The pouch is as long as the backpack boxes are tall and features a single snap closing the flap. Pouch will be stuffed to appear loaded.
  17. LET'S GET READY TO RUMBLLLLLLLLLLLLLLE!!!!
  18. Alright…so @Blackwatch we seem to be set on everything but the boots and backpack primarily. Here are some questions/comments: 1) I went back over the reference pics and I don't see any use of the jackboot style for this particular trooper. If it can be seen we can keep it, otherwise I would say we need to take it out as @TX-15293 suggested and make the commuter Level 1. Thoughts? 2) Imperial Patch…has a placeholder for Level 2. Was there something in mind here? 3) Belt pouches have Level 2 requirements. Did we have anything in mind for the chest pouches as well (i.e. are the bulletpoints regarding the number of pouches used a Level 2 requirement or simply just bulletpoint additions? 4) Backpack…don't answer any backpack stuff here lol. Once we agree that everything seems good we will tackle the pack and its accessories full force. THANKS!
  19. P.S. Keep the discussion going and focused on these pieces (parka, belts). You guys are much appreciated. I am currently in the process of selling/buying homes with closing set for this Friday. My ability to get on much this week and next may be limited, BUT we can keep the talking points going and I will keep an eye on what is suggested. THANKS AGAIN!!!
  20. READ ABOVE. If no major issues, I will move to the pinned post and hold till final review. Next up, parka and belts…here is what was initially submitted. PARKA: Russian Plash Palatka Style. Parka is Dyed or Painted black. Metal grommets shall be painted or covered with leather to mimic leather grommets. Tied or otherwise attached under the chest armor and worn to cover the back plate. Parka shall be heavily weathered. Optional Level 2 requirement: Ring Grommets shall be leather to match reference photos. OFFICER BELT: The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or a leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) from the buckle. The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the wearer. The buckle is a standard officer buckle. Buckle is adorned with an Imperial Code Disk at the center. Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles. Two boxes shall be present on either side of buckle. Dimensions are approximately 2 1/2" (63.5 mm) by 3 1/2" (88.9 mm) by 1" (25.4 mm) thick. Boxes shall be painted olive grey and moderately weathered. Belt shall be weathered appropriately LOWER BELT: Belt is black and is made from two nylon straps sewn together with a zig-zag pattern which is approximately 7.6 cm wide. Belt boxes options: Option A. two thin, two medium and one long tabbed box. Option B Two thin, two medium one hinged drop box. Boxes are olive grey grey with moderate weathering. Belt shall be worn loose across lower abdomen.
  21. If there is no more input, I can piece together what we have and proceed to next sometime tomorrow to give people one last bit of input. Thanks again all! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I have created a locked/pinned "Proposal" thread for us to move items we have covered to so that they are pulled cleanly out of the discussion. Hopefully that helps us see the final product compared to the original proposal/outline. See here: http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/6015-new-crl-proposal-mudtrooper/ @areilly thank you for the input! We will get others input on those suggestions for the gloves and boots. You mention the top straps/buckles on the boots. I cannot see that in the reference pics for the life of me though @JAFO mentions it as well. Can you guys point that out specifically in a reference pic for me (and @amcclary) please? Thanks!
  23. WARNING - THIS CRL IS IN THE OUTLINE AND DEVELOPMENT STAGE AND REQUIREMENTS THEREIN ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE See the discussion thread here: http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/5896-new-crl-development-mud-trooper/& Helmet An open-faced, flared helmet which consists of a dome with rim and helmet skirt. A telemetry unit is attached to the right side of the dome and is aligned with the rim. The telemetry unit consists of a rectangle box with detailing that should match the reference image. The telemetry unit is black. The lower end of the telemetry unit sits out from the helmet to allow the goggle elastic to feed underneath. A small tactical flashlight may be worn below the telemetry unit. A rubber trim, or the illusion of a rubber trim covers the edge of the helmet rim with the join made at the rear center of the helmet. Metal/silver Imperial code disks are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt. These may be weathered. The helmet is to be painted in matte olive green (similar to Pantone350u) to match the armor. The helmet paint finish may be textured, and is moderately weathered. Helmet has a black chin cup with tan webbing strap. Tan webbing should be lightly weathered. OPTIONAL Level 2 Certification (if applicable): The helmet has a black/dark gray polystyrene inner liner consistent with that of a skate or bike helmet. The telemetry unit may feature a tied length of elastic bungee cord, approx. 4-5mm in diameter, looped around the outer upper section. If worn, tactical flashlight on right side of helmet is approx. 3.5" (90mm) black aluminum flashlight with knurling at both ends and a rubber push switch. Flashlight need not be functional. Disks do not feature a notch or groove details. Goggles Goggles shall have an aged chrome frame with detail painting, and weathering to match reference image. The knurled nose bridge adjuster is brass in appearance. Goggles shall have a trim around metallic frame. Trim shall be rubber or foam. Goggles have dark angled lens featuring two flat panels on each side. Goggle Strap features two sizes of elastic - approximately 25mm and 40mm. The thinner elastic strap attaches directly to the goggles and is sewn to the larger strap, which forms the main goggle strap. The goggle strap features a number of buckles: • There are metallic buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 25mm elastic is threaded. • A large buckle greeblie on the lefthand side through which the 40mm elastic is threaded. This greeblie features a beige square. • Two black plastic tri-glides on the right rear through which the 40mm elastic is threaded. OPTIONAL Level 2 Certification (if applicable) Serrated 25 mm slide buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 25mm elastic is threaded. Respirator The respirator is large enough to cover the wearers’ lower face. The respirator shall be painted matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) and moderately weathered. The respirator has a ‘mouth’ which features a curved bottom, short curved vertical sides and arched top where the tubes attach. The mouth is painted matte black. The mouth features seven vertical cut-outs in the top center. The three center lines shall be equal length and run from the top of the mouth to the middle. The next two lines on either side step down in size incrementally. A silver colored metallic mesh is visible through the cut-outs. The respirator features two rounded tusks that extend either side of the mouth. The end of each tusk features a filter. The filters are aged chrome in color and have a raised center ring with three branches connecting to the outer ring. Sides of the filter slope to meet the tusks of the mask. Metallic mesh is visible through between the branches of the filter. Above each tusk is a black colored buckle through which 3/4in (19mm) tan webbing straps are fed. Each strap connects to a metal snap hook. These hooks are used to connect the respirator to the neck strap. The neck strap consists of a length of 3/4in (19mm) tan webbing with metal D-Rings sewn in to place. Tan webbing should be lightly weathered. The respirator can be worn to cover the face, or suspended around the neck of the wearer. Level 2 (Optional) The metallic mesh for the mouth and filters consist of a rounded diamond pattern. In the center of each tusk filter is a hex socket cap screw. A rubber trim, or the illusion of a rubber trim covers the edge of the respirator. Hoses Two black rubber breathing hoses, approx. 30mm outer dimension, connect either side of the vertical cut-outs of the mouth. The hose extends over each shoulder and connects to the hose connectors located at the top of the back plate. Scarf A military style scarf is worn around the neck. The color may be solid dark olive grey or solid green ,and should contrast with the tunic. Parka Russian Plash Palatka Style. Parka is dyed or painted black. Tied or otherwise attached under the chest armor and worn to cover the back plate. Parka shall be heavily weathered. OPTIONAL: Level 2 certification (if applicable): Ring Grommets shall be leather to match reference photos. or metal grommets shall be covered with leather to mimic leather grommets. Tunic/Jacket A long-sleeved, Olive Grey, jacket that falls between upper and mid-thigh. Has a high mandarin style collar with an open space in front. Has two panels on either side of the front, extending to the bottom of the jacket with a width of approximately 6". Has a stitched "cuff" on the sleeve that extends to around the middle of the forearm. Look may be created with top stitching. If side pockets are present, they are built into the jacket, with no covering flaps present. No outer stitched pockets are acceptable unless they are fully covered by the armor. Shall be moderately to heavily weathered. Optional Level 2 (if applicable): Jacket is made of an Olive Grey heavy weight bull denim Twill material. There is an imperial cog patch sewn on each shoulder and are made of an embossed 3D vinyl material. There are code cylinder pockets on both outside panels of the jacket from about half way between the top and bottom of the seam where the arm connects to the body. Chest Plate Chest Armor matches visual references. Accurate shape/design to front of chest. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attached to upper chest plate. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest and straps shall be painted matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) and be moderately weathered. Back Plate Back Plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. Chest and back plate meet at the sides. Black foam extends from the arm openings. 2 hose connectors located at the top of the back plate approximately centered above each rectangular cut out/greeblie. Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside. The walls and floor the recesses shall be matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u). Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside to match Rogue One backplates. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. The floor of the cut out and the walls inside match the matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) color of the armor. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recess. There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. Back plate is painted matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. OPTIONAL Level 2 Certification (if applicable): The hose fittings are angled forward, and approximately the same size as the hoses. Black fabric or leather loop drop down from the bottom of the back plate through which belts must pass through. Shoulder Bells Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shoulders should have a longer flat edge that covers top of bicep with a shorter flat edge that connects to chest armor Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Biceps Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Left bicep is matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Right bicep armor is painted red with three yellow squares on the cover strip, with moderate weathering. Right Bicep Red color is Toyota Red 3E5 or comparable matching paint color. Yellow color is Montana Yellow Cab or comparable matching paint color. Each bicep may feature a slanted fishook detail that is inset into the bicep top facing outward. Gloves Black gloves with black leather or leather-like material on the palm, thumb, and forefinger. Gloves have a U-shaped Velcro closure around the wrist. Gloves shall have all logos removed. Highlander brand Special Ops gloves are best match to reference. R1 style gloves are also acceptable for approval. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves are Highlander Special Ops gloves #GL033-BK, or an authentic replication. Upper Belt - Leather The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or a leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) from the buckle. The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the wearer. The buckle is a standard officer buckle. Buckle is adorned with an Imperial Code Disk at the center. Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles. Two boxes shall be present on either side of buckle. Dimensions are approximately 2" (50.8mm) by 3" (76.2mm) by 1" (24.5mm). Boxes shall be painted the same color as the chest plate and heavily weathered. Belt shall be weathered appropriately. OPTIONAL Level 2 (if applicable): The belt features two grooves running the entire length of the belt, approximately 1/8" away from the edges of the belt. Lower Belt - Webbing Belt is black and is made from two nylon web straps sewn together which is approximately 3" (76.2mm) wide. The belt features six boxes. 1 x standard drop box on the right side of the belt. 2 x small and 2 x medium worn in he center of the belt. 1 x long drop box worn on the left of the belt. Boxes shall be painted matte olive green (Pantone 350U or similar) and moderately weathered. Belt shall be worn loosely across lower abdomen. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Two nylon web straps are sewn together with a zig zag pattern. Long drop box is hinged. Pants Black heavy cotton pants with double reinforced thighs. They do not have visible pockets or other adornment on the legs. Shall be moderately to heavily weathered. Shins The shin plates (greaves) attach directly to the front of the boots using two rubber straps that thread through the back of the greaves. Each strap affixes on the outer edge of the boot via a cam style buckle. The rubber straps are ribbed, and equal in size, approx. 1.5” (38mm) wide. Straps extend from each buckle, and the inner side of the greaves. A “T” shaped knee plate is affixed to both greaves that may appear to angle slightly away from the knee. The ‘T” shaped plate features a slightly curved rectangle feature that follows the upper edge. The rectangle is raised. Two triangular ‘knuckles’ are evident beneath the “T” shaped knee plate. The greaves feature vertical indents and recessed rectangles that should match the reference image. The bottom of the greaves angle outward to follow the curvature of the boot/foot. Shins are painted matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350U) with heavy weathering. Boots Jackboot or kersey boot style, knee high smooth black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot. This need not be functional. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. Boots shall be tall enough to fit both shin straps. Boots shall be heavily weathered. Boots should form fit to the calf and not be loose. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots do not have a zipper. Boots are made of leather. Not vinyl or PVC. Exact replicas of Soviet Officer Boots. Optional Accessories Ammo Pouch Yugoslavian M49 - M56 SMG style ammo pouch or replica. Replica must be made from leather or leather-like material. Pouch is fitted with two straps. May be worn on either right or left chest with upper strap placed over the right shoulder and the lower strap across the chest passing under the left arm. The pouch may also be worn around the waist and sit on the left May be worn with upper strap over the right shoulder with the lower strap across the chest then passes under the left arm. Pouches shall be weathered or otherwise aged. Oiler pouch is optional and may be worn on the upper strap above the main pouches. Ammo Pouch/ Bandoleer Vietnam era 4 pouch 5.56mm ammunition cloth bandoleer. The pouches have been modified to make the pockets larger. Pouch is fitted with two straps and worn over left shoulder to right abdomen. Pouches shall be stuffed to appear full. Grenades The grenade is based on the design of a WW1 German stick grenade. The stick features a number of raised ridges. A button pad greeblie is present on the stick. The cylinder at the head of the grenade features 10 ribs. Grenade is attached via a strap looped through or attached to the ammo pouch shoulder buckle. Strap is attached to either side of the grenade’s center greeblie with loops around the shaft of the grenade and closed with snap buttons. Medic Markings Replaces the red version of the bicep. Right bicep armor is painted white with three gold stripes on the cover strip. There is a red image facing front that matches reference photos. Biceps shall have moderate weathering. Blaster E-10 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300 or replica) mounted on left side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Magazine may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinder. The righthand side of the barrel features a rectangle box with two antenna. The top antenna is longer than the bottom. A rocker switch is present on top of the box. The box may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. Scope rail is fitted on a rear blocks whilst the front of the rail is angled to join the top of the barrel. Either one or two scope rings can be mounted on the scope rail. The barrel features a folding foregrip. A folding stock is in place. Webbing sling is attached with snap hook buckles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring). Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. Web sling is fitted with snap hook buckles from a 70s era Yugoslavian Backpack. E-11B Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300A or replica) mounted on left side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 1 smaller central cylinder Scope is a M38 1943 version. Scope rail can be fitted with rail blocks and a middle rail support block is optional. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring). Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. E-22 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. It has a extended stock attached at the rear and a extended front housing with second lower barrel. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300 or replica) mounted on right side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders Scope is a 1943 version of the M38 scope. Scope rail is fitted onto rail blocks, one inside the rear sight and the other at the front end of the rail. There are 3 swivel studs fitted, one on the rear stock and one each side of the front barrel housing. Sling is 25mm webbing strap that is adjustable using a silver 25mm 3 fixed bar webbing buckle (optional). Sling is fitted with Talon quick release 25mm swivel or replica (optional). Red lights fitted on both sides of the rear housing, Hengstler fitted with a red light for the 3 forward tubes and 2 small red lights fitted into the rear barrel housing under the flashlight, the lights are permanent and are non-flashing or pulsed (optional). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring). Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. Sling is fitted with Talon quick release 25mm swivel.
  24. That's alright man! No worries.Let's wrap up the boots and gloves and proceed to the other pieces. When we are through it all, we can address any additional concerns/suggestions in a review of the final proposal. Cool? So to recap where we are at on the boots and gloves...with the boots we have the original proposal meshed with @JAFO suggestions. Yellow are some pieces in question (some by me). At current, no Spec Ops CRLs have Level 3 requirements, so I've blended the suggestions into Level 2 (for now). Feel free to provide input and suggestions for discussion. THANKS!!! BOOTS: Knee High black leather or leather like material. Jackboots style. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot. This need not be functional. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. *Keep this line or remove altogether?* Boots shall be tall enough to fit both shin straps. Boots shall be heavily weathered Smooth non-textured, leather or leather-like material. Style is same as Soviet Officer boots. Boots should form fit to the calf and not be loose. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots do not have a zipper. Boots are made of leather. Not vinyl or PVC. Exact replicas of Soviet Officer Boots. GLOVES: Black gloves with black leather or leather-like material on the palm, thumb, and forefinger. The black oval detail is aligned with the index finger of each hand. Gloves have a U shaped velcro closure. Gloves shall have all logos removed. Highlander brand special ops gloves are best match to reference. R1 style gloves are also acceptable for approval.
  25. @Sall It looks good. Elastic is fine. Is it Anovos kit? More than likely you are correct, those straps will crack (mine did and I hardly ever troop my TK). I found some thicker plastic straps than Anovos through another provider (WTF) to replace when mine can't hold up anymore...though I did reinforce the underside of them as well with plastic strips.
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