RAIDER

Some questions/feedback below. I really feel like I'm overlooking something going through these parts for some reason and have already reached out to Izzi and Torri. That could of course just be my mind playing tricks on me lol. See in yellow. Helmet An open-faced, flared helmet which consists of a dome with rim and helmet skirt. A telemetry unit is attached to the right side of the dome and is aligned just above the rim. The lower end of the telemetry unit sits out from the helmet to allow the goggle elastic to feed underneath. The telemetry unit consists of a rectangle box with detailing that should match the reference image. The telemetry unit is in the same color as the helmet. The telemetry unit may feature a tied length of elastic bungee cord, approx. 4-5mm in diameter, looped around the outer upper section. A rubber trim covers the edge of the helmet rim with the join made at the rear centre of the helmet. Metal/silver Imperial code disks are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt. These may be weathered. Disks DO NOT feature grooves or a notch. The helmet has a polystyrene inner liner consistent with that of a skate or bike helmet. The helmet is to be painted in olive green to match the armour. The helmet paint finish may be textured, and is moderately weathered. When worn without the respirator, a black chin cup with tan webbing strap must be visible. Tan webbing should be lightly weathered. Goggles Goggles shall have an aged chrome frame with detail painting, and weathering to match reference. The knurled nose bridge adjuster is brass in appearance. Goggles shall have a trim around metallic frame. Trim shall be rubber or foam. Goggles have dark angled lenses featuring two flat panels per lens. Goggle Strap features two sizes of elastic - 38mm and 50mm. The goggle strap features a number of buckles: • Serrated slide buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 38mm elastic is threaded. (I'm getting posts mixed up in my head now...but this is the one where only Han has the red square you referred to?) • A large buckle greeblie on the lefthand side through which the 50mm elastic is threaded. This greeblie features a beige or red painted square. • Two black plastic tri-glides on the right rear through which the 50mm elastic is threaded. Respirator The respirator is large enough to cover the wearers’ lower face, and is wide enough to extend to either side of helmet. The respirator has a ‘mouth’ which features a curved bottom, short curved vertical sides and arched top. The mouth is painted matte black. The mouth features seven vertical cut-outs in the top center. The three center lines shall be equal length and run from the top of the mouth to the middle. The next two lines on either side step down in size incrementally. Metallic hexagonal mesh is visible through the cut-outs (see below regarding hexagonal mesh). Two rubber breathing hoses, approx. 30mm outer dimension, connect either side of the vertical cut-outs. The hose extends over each shoulder and connects to the top of the backplate at the hose connectors (add this?). The respirator features two rounded tusks that extend either side of the mouth. The end of each tusk features a filter. The filter consists of a raised center ring and three branches connecting the ring to the outside of the filter. In the center of each filter is a Hex socket cap screw. Filters are aged chrome in color, with outside edges slanted inward. Metallic hexagonal (Andrew suggested removing the hexagonal...I feel like I agree w/ that...but open to thoughts. Hexagonal could make an L2 requirement possibly fo rgreater accuracy) mesh is visible through between the branches of the filter. The respirator shall be painted olive green and moderately weathered. Above each tusk is a gun metal coloured buckle through which 3/4in (19mm) tan webbing straps are fed. Each strap connects to a metal snap hook. These hooks are used to connect the respirator to the neck strap. The neck strap consists of a length of 3/4in (19mm) tan webbing with metal D-Rings sewn in to place. Tan webbing should be lightly weathered. The respirator can be worn to cover the face, or suspended around the neck of the wearer.

Added new reference pics to original post. Still learning the new forums, but maybe @nanotek can help me get them sorted and organized a little better in there.

So just to clarify my own sake (which sucks at multi-tasking)...we are left with the pack pretty much to solidify this up?

I agree Andrew. Level 1 needs to have the look...specifiying exact parts/vendors will paint the CRL into a corner (that's why we don't use the exact base boot for scouts for example anymore...can't really find em). The optional items seem to be so diverse. I agree, we can lock in the basics and knock out added extras later...maybe even options after we've launched the CRL base. I will take a look through all of the edits tomorrow morning and see if we can finish up this weekend so we can shift to the final review. Also going to get @Scubacat and @izzi extra eyes in on everything to give everything a fresh look at what we've come up with before we send it through.

To my knowledge, FO Finn has not been allowed in the 501st though it has been presented, as he is a "good guy" ultimately. Likewise, we don't see CRLs for Stormtrooper Luke or Han. If that's the precedent, I don't think Mudtrooper Han will be any different.

Yea I think Sapper makes more sense to me. The gear for these guys is specifically intended to blow things up...and I do think confusion can occur between the 2 engineer names. My 2 cents anyways.

Color changes noted @amcclary. Updated and moved into the proposal thread. We will review everything...with color being a primary focus...soon once we finish these last pieces. On to the helmet/goggles.mask/hoses. Here is the original proposed text we need to review: Helmet Open face helmet whose base consists of a dome with rim and helmet skirt. The helmet skirt is to be smooth all around with no indentations on the rear. A telemetry unit is attached centered to the right sides of the dome aligned to the rim. The telemetry unit consists of: Rectangular box with a slight bevel and details on. The box is in the same color as the helmet. 1 screw cap or cylindrical knob in the upper left corner. 2 cylindrical pins lined up in the lower left corner of the box. 1 cylindrical pin in the upper right corner of the box. 1 telemetry unit main detail (Revell V8 carburetor) aligned at the lower right corner of the box. [*]A rubber trim is covering the edge of the helmet skirt and forehead of the dome. [*]Imperial code disks are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt. [*]The helmet is to be painted in olive grey. Helmet is moderately weathered. [*]When worn without the mask, a black chin cup with tan strap must be visible. Goggles Goggles shall have an aged metallic frame with detail painting to match reference and black lenses. Goggles shall have a trim around metallic frame. Trim shall be rubber or foam. Goggle Strap is black elastic, with large buckle greeblie on left side, two “figure 8� slides on right rear. Mask Mask is respirator style mask, wide enough to extend to either side of helmet. Mask has an indent at mouth. Indent shall have a long flat bottom, short vertical sides and diagonal tops. All corners shall be rounded. Indent has 7 vertical cut outs in the center. The three center lines shall be equal length and go from top of indent to the middle. The next two lines on either side step down incrementally. Hoses connect to the bottom corners of the indent. Mask shall have two rounded “cheeks� to which filters attach. Mask shall be painted olive grey and moderately weathered. Mask shall have two 3/4� straps that run from upper outside corners and run through a 3/4� compression slide buckle that sits on the corner between the area under the eyes and the mouth cover. Filters are aged metallic in color, with outside edges slanted inward. A raised center ring and three branches connecting the ring to the outside of the filter. Hoses Black Ribbed Rubber Hoses with approximately 22mm diameter on each end and enough length to attach from top of back armor to mask, leaving enough slack to match reference pictures

Taking in all of your feedback, here are the edits in yellow w/ an option for level 2 added in blue. The wording of "pill" seems acceptable to me...but I put elongated oval in for now (though it seems unnecessarily wordy to me personally). I did not use the term "slot"...the term seems to be more of a jargon term used in design by armorers as opposed to more common terminology used in other CRLs. Hope everyone is ok w/ that. Anyways...give it a look over...leave your feedback (and if none, saying that is also helpful so we know we can move on). Thanks team! Chest Plate Chest Armor matches visual references. Accurate shape/design to front of chest. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attached to upper chest plate. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from top to bottom with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest and straps shall be painted olive grey and be moderately weathered. back plate and tubes. Back Plate Back Plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. Chest and back plate meet at the sides. 2 hose connectors located at the top of the back plate approximately centered above each rectangular cutout/greeblie. Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside. The walls and floor the recesses shall be olive grey. Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside to match Rogue One backplates. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. The floor of the cut out shall be black and the walls inside match the olive grey color of the armor. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recess. There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are olive grey with moderate weathering and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. Black fabric or leather loop drop down from the bottom of the back plate through which belts must pass through. Back plate is olive grey with moderate weathering. Optional: The hose fittings are angled forward, and approximately the same size as the hoses.

Yea…I'm ok w/ having my wording corrected for sure. A brother ain't too proud lol. But seriously…I like that wording better than my original…marinate on it and see if it can be more clear even still.

Gratz on the approval!

Can we pull a hyper-closeup that would give us a better idea of material for the drop down? I'm a visual guy...can you show me what you're referring to for the slant on the recessed chest area? THANKS!

This shot, the packs look to be the same material as the TD's. That's what we will roll with.

Looking at the refs...the strap (and the decorative part you're talking about) seem to be for the pack straps, not the suspenders/harness. That 4th ref pic w/ Junber ordering a TD and 2 running sappers...the 2nd face on one you can see the strap and it going under his arm while the suspender is below that and goes down to the belt.

First question...no we haven't lol. Second...yes I think so. The loose interpretation bit refers to the actual layout of the pack components themselves (not the material) if I'm not mistaken. More of reference to what we've been discussing regarding the pack configs.

My wordsmithing here may need some cleanup...the additional greeblie in the center of the backplate is currently not being proposed. I left some ?s to address and possibly kick tot L2. Let's get it! Chest Plate Chest Armor matches visual references. Accurate shape/design to front of chest. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attached to upper chest plate. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. To the lower Left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area with a greeblie installed to match reference picture Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest and straps shall be painted olive grey and be moderately weathered. back plate and tubes. Back Plate Back Plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. Chest and back plate meet at the sides. 2 hose connectors (functional or no?) located at the top of the back plate, one off-centered to the left and one off-centered to the right. Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside. The walls and floor the recesses shall be olive grey. Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside to match Rogue One backplates. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. The floor of the cut out shall be black and the walls inside match the olive grey color of the armor. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recess. There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are olive grey with moderate weathering and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. Fabric (?) loop drop down from the bottom of the back plate through which belts must pass through. Back plate is olive grey with moderate weathering.

Well in that case, let's get a write up of the back/chest knocked out this weekend and move on to the last pieces. I'm at work today, so if someone can modify the original text proposal w/ an update, I (we) can look it over tonight and tomorrow to get those pieces wrapped up.

Thanks for all the additional pictures @JAFO. Still focusing on the back at the moment...hose connectors confirmed. Black foam wings confirmed. Drop down belt loop confirmed...wouldn't say it's a trapezoid shape (probably the angle of the shot that makes it appear so). The only thing I am not seeing in the reference pics is the greeblie at the top center of the pack. Unless other images through the blu-ray or otherwise become available, we can't require details that can't be seen. That being said, we can still proceed w/ Level 1 requirements on the chest/back as the parka will cover those. We can make adjustments to the CRL if images become available a) as Level 2 adds or b) as Level 1 updates if the evidence is overwhelming. Hope that makes sense. So with that, it seems the majority of the debated items are confirmed. Let's nail down wording for those and move on to the helmet/mask/hoses in the next few days. P.S. With the blu-ray release in the near future we may be able to catch any updates in the final review process before the CRL goes live.

@Blackwatch I'm ok w/ keeping hearing protection. It's clearly there. The screw caps are all over the place. @Scubacat Thoughts on how to go about wording the requirement for those? And clarifying those straps...you're suggesting that they be mounted to the pack straps (though not necessarily functional)? They could also just be the functional pack straps themselves or no?

@Blackwatch Yes disregard the color...I think I misread something somewhere and combined the coat/tunic color w/ the armor color. I should have it straightened out on the proposal thread now. Read the input thus far and will look it over tonight with the references. If anyone has more to add, drop a word.

And with that...let's move to the chest/back...here is what was initially presented (currently no L2 requirements): Chest Plate Chest Armor matches visual references. Accurate shape/design to front of chest. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attached to upper chest plate. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. To the lower Left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area with a greeblie installed to match reference picture Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest and straps shall be painted olive grey and be moderately weathered. back plate and tubes. Back Plate Back Plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. Chest and back plate meet at the sides. Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside. The walls and floor the recesses shall be olive grey. Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside to match Rogue One backplates. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. The floor of the cut out shall be black and the walls inside match the olive grey color of the armor. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recess. There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are olive grey with moderate weathering and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. Back plate is olive grey with moderate weathering.

Understood. How are we looking here then (keeping in mind we will revisit the color wording again in final review)? Shoulder Bells Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shoulders should have a longer flat edge that covers top of bicep with a shorter flat edge that connects to chest armor Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Biceps Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with a added strip layer on top. Left bicep is matte olive green (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Right bicep armor is painted red with three yellow squares on the cover strip, with moderate weathering. Biceps shall have moderate weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Right Bicep Red color is Toyota Red 3E5. Yellow color is Montana Gold Shock Yellow.

CRL UPDATE IS ACTIVE AS OF 5/13/19. PLEASE SEE FINAL CRL PUBLISHED HERE: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_shadow_scout CRL Shadow Scout Required Costume Components Special Notes: The armor parts shall be film-accurate or close approximation in gloss, semi-gloss, satin, or matte black, weathering is not acceptable. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. The following costume components are present and appear as described below. New image Helmet For 501st approval: Eye Lens in black, dark green or silver mirrored Helmet may have scout detailing or left plain if detailing is present it is black or dark grey [*]Licensed helmets are acceptable with modifications: any deformation of the helmet shape (helmet flare) is corrected remove the manufacturer logo replace stock lens replace inaccurate "fish-hook" logo replace stock bolts with flat-disc "elevator" bolts replace inaccurate aerator. repaint to match armor [*]Fan-made helmets are acceptable as long as they remain true to shape of original screen accurate helmet. For level two certification (if applicable): Details are the correct color and placed as shown. Film-accurate scout details are present, either painted or decals. They should be contrasting the rest of the helmet Film-accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted a contrasting black to the armor. Film-accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder" Film-accurate helmet snout/aerator detail, mounted onto a plate and painted a contrasting black to the helmet Film-accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern Film-accurate three lines on center of forehead area [*]No mesh material mounted in the ears. [*]Properly shaped ear holes are installed. [*]Black 3M bolts or replicas of in the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). [*]No visible seams on the dome. [*]Optional: Chin cup Existing image Balaclava For 501st approval: A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. Existing image Flight Suit For 501st approval: The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately. Stand-up collar which conceals the neck and with enclosing strap to keep the collar closed. Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund, rectangle in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stop slightly higher than the bottom edge of the troopers backside. Suede or faux suede thigh patches must be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 50mm (2") black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch. See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below. Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets). For level two certification (if applicable): Suit is fairly fitted and not baggy. Real black suede square/ rectangular butt patch attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund will sit and resemble those seen on screen, size will adjust slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale must be noted, no external visible stitching. Size will differ slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale is maintained. Existing image Shoulder Armor For 501st approval: Black Elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. They do not have any adornment. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around bicep with a 12mm (1/2") black elastic strap. Bottom corners are rounded. Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops Existing image Upper Arm Armor For 501st approval: Armor has a recessed area with a "t-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. For level two certification (if applicable): Film-accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to armor T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm. Armor is secured around the arm with a 35mm ( 1.5") black elastic strap. Existing image Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around the arm with a 25mm ( 1") black elastic strap. Existing image Gloves For 501st approval: Black leather and gauntlet length. Detailed gloves include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. [*]There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps. For level two certification (if applicable): Real black suede leather padding on fingers and inside of thumb and correct gauntlet stitching. New image Vest For 501st approval: Made out of black, matte finish, heavy weight cotton fabric. Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund. The sleeves are just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor. Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit. Secured at the back using 50mm (2") black hook and loop fastener. For level two certification (if applicable): The vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund. New image Chest Armor For 501st approval: There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that may be painted contrasting black or left unfinished. The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a loop of black fabric. The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with black webbing or elastic. For level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of black cotton webbing. Nylon webbing is inaccuate [*]Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 40mm (1.5") black webbing or elastic strap. New image Back Armor For 501st approval: The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the seen used armor Top detail piece is painted full matte black The tank has a contrasting black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 6 stripes. For level two certification (if applicable): Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible. Only 1, 4 or 6 stripes on tank are acceptable. Bullet tank on the back armor has film-accurate greeblie tank topper detail. Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. Tank topper is secured with single black colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment black rivet. Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable. New image Cummerbund For 501st approval: Made from matt black, heavy weight cotton fabric. Closes in back with 50mm (2") hook and loop fastener. Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist. There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund. Has a tapered cod section with inverted curve sewn in detail. (not chevron) Made from the same material as the bund [*]Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a 50mm (2") black elastic strap. [*]Front of cummerbund has 5-6 equal ribs stitch, centered between the two fabric pouches according to wearers size. [*]ribs are of equal width. [*]ribs are completely visible between the pouches. [*]poches mounted to touch the chest armor. [*]pouches slightly overlaps the belt. [*] Pouches are made of matching black fabric For level two certification (if applicable): The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest. There is no visible external edge stitching on the bund, the cod or pouch flaps. Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch. Pouch Size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang. Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL or Costumes book. Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area. Optional: codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the undersuit. New image Belt and Detonator For 501st approval: The front and two "boxes" of the belt are made of hard material. The remainder of the belt that fastens at the back of the waist, is made from a textile material (webbing). Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes (drop boxes). Drop boxes are also made from plastic. Drop boxes are connected to the belt via black textile straps. [*]Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular thermal detonator box with short black corrugated hose. [*]The correct thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. [*]The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the left side of the detonator, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. [*]On the right hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper. [*]See the detonator detail page for a close up image of the greeblies. [*]The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 50mm (2") black cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single black rivet For level two certification (if applicable): The belt is made from a one-piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended. The straps to attached the drop boxes to the belt are made from 40mm (1 1/2") black cotton webbing Nylon webbing is inaccuate Drop boxes hang at the correct distance from the belt [*]The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 50mm (2") black cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single black rivet [*]Thermal Detonator end caps to be concave and not flat. [*]Optional: Thermal Detonator must have visible black clips attaching it to the web belt, as seen in the film. [*]Optional: Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube. Existing image Knee Armor For 501st approval: Knees are gray to match the snout. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. For level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has two elastic straps: The first is 25mm (1") wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor. The second is 12mm (1/2") wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor Rivets are black in color New image Boots For 501st approval: Black marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance. Slightly textured vinyl is acceptable. [*]The soles of the boot are black. [*]A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. [*]The boots are secured up the back using 25mm (1") black hook and loop fastener. [*]The calf of the boot rises to just slightly underneath the bottom of the knee armor. For level two certification (if applicable): The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen on the references. The boot sole is a single black color with no visible stitching. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Boots made using the "boot tutorial" (available on BSN.net) are the only boots accepted. Existing image Holster For 501st approval: Attached to the outside right side of the right boot with black rivets. Not straps. [*]The blaster pistol fits into the holster For level two certification (if applicable): Attached with four black colored rivets. There is no rank striping visible. Optional Accessoires: Existing image Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. For level two certification (if applicable): Prohibited for a accurate style costume Existing image E-11 Blaster For 501st approval: Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. [*]A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. [*]D-ring mounted on the rear. [*]Correct style scope. [*]Two power cylinders on the magazine. [*]Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). [*]If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. [*]This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. Existing image Hold-out Blaster For 501st approval: Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. No decals representing cross hairs or similar. No drilled barrels. The screen used ones did not have drilled barrels. Kenner toy blasters, modified Kenner toy blasters or resin recasts of Kenner toy blasters are not acceptable due to the fact they are approximately 10% larger in scale than an accurate style blaster.

@izzi!!! Awesome! I understand the logic there on the shovel. Makes sense. It is absent in several of the pack examples in the panels though. Could it be just as safe to assume that the sappers are working as demolition "teams" and therefore not every trooper would need/have the shovel? The shovel handle itself does appear to creep up above the top edge of the pack and even on frontal views of the troopers not all have the handle peeking up there (pre-dig panel). Playing some devil's advocate there I suppose. Just a thought. I'm prob the minority on that one lol.

Yes @TX-15293 I like those as configs of the pack for L2. Thanks for laying those out. Also...thanks for clarifying what that was on the chest. Chest pouch. Got it. Going through the panels, that DOES NOT appear on every trooper. Some have no pack at all. This is currently not listed as an optional accessory though. Thoughts? In regards to @Blackwatch question...yes I think we should try if at all possible to have configs of pouches and gear match for L2 depending on the type of backpack being used. If we can't do that, then we may need to snub the idea altogether. May need to hit up @izzi and/or the LMO for feedback on that. So If I'm correct, we can clearly identify 2 pack configs (for now I will nickname them Shovel and No-Shovel). Can we see the pouch configs for each of those troopers?

To clarify the process here (as it was discussed above), we are going through section by section. I am pulling the proposal of each section to the end part of the thread to discuss...when that area has a) sufficient input or b) sufficient time, I am moving what is settled on to the pinned proposal thread at the top of the Imperial Army section in the forums for a final review later. I am trying to allow AT MINIMUM a week (7 days) for people to chime in. For example..today marks the 7th day of the biceps and shoulders. Ok...hope that clears up any confusion. I do want to reiterate the general stance of Izzi, myself, and the CRL team...that while we want to complete the CRL in a timely manner, our priority is getting it right. We are making a concerted effort to avoid having to going back and making major adjustments to the CRL (as happened with the previous Imperial Army CRL). Sooooooo....with that said, I'm not set on the discussion regarding color. Here is what I believe we have offered up on that...I've highlighted what still doesn't seem settled. I am in agreement with @amcclary (I think) that specifying paint brands and pantones may be too limiting (which I believe Izzi may have mentioned earlier as well). I have it in for now, but this will be something we address again in the final review when I can get some more input from @izzi and Torri @Scubacat Shoulder Bells Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shoulders should have a longer flat edge that covers top of bicep with a shorter flat edge that connects to chest armor Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted matte green olive grey (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Biceps Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with a added strip layer on top. Left bicep is matte green olive grey (similar to Pantone 350u) with moderate weathering. Right bicep armor is painted red with three yellow squares on the cover strip, with moderate weathering. Biceps shall have moderate weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Right Bicep Red color is Toyota Red 3E5. Yellow color is Montana Gold Shock Yellow. Final comments on these parts welcome before I move them over to the proposal tomorrow.