RAIDER

Everything is good on these EXCEPT for chest pad we need a lime that it needs to be attached without visible snaps or rivets.

Cool. If u wanna bang out all the back parts @IcyTrooperincluding the detonator there is nothing there out of the norm. Ab/cod, belt/pouches, right thigh, and knives are the only things that will need some custom text.

(Re)painting is once again an issue BUT I have just 2 pieces to finish (chest and ab) and the build will be complete!

Got brave and went ahead and did the helmet. Tried to emulate not only the big X but any other slashes I could see in panels. Backside didnt really have any good views so I just customed that up a bit.

Started slash weathering. Have only the back pieces, thighs, and helmet (scary) left to do. Practiced on scraps. First tried a heated foam cutting tool. Wasn’t looking right so switched to a dremel w/ cutting wheel. Lesson learned…do this BEFORE painting. Here are some samples: Helmet stripes. Traps are hand painted. Tried to do the same w the lines and as expected FAILED! ?. Wife came through in the clutch though and cut me out some decal stripes on her Cameo. Crotch strap also corrected for comfort ? My goal is to have this all done tomorrow and get pictures this week. Trying to push it before elections.

Left shoulder bell is tweaked and painted (no pic). With holidays passed, I just need to do helmet stripes, slashes, and adjust crotch strap and first iteration of the build should be done.

@IcyTrooperyes that would work. Here for certain con events, I will have to get either rubber knives made or the handle with a stick of some kind. Being made of leather, they should look full regarded which helps. One detail to add, the pad should be attached without any visible rivets or snaps. And wherever they are called “pouch” change to “sheath”

@IcyTrooper Looks good except hand plates should be painted white. Other than that, all set n ready for whatever is next

@IcyTrooper one additional detail maybe to add to the left shoulder is the angled bottom (not rounded). this is tough because the art isnt always matching of course… Other than that I think we can move to the biceps and forearms which really shouldnt be any work because they’re standard TK.

Perfect. Thanks!

I cant read the french on amazon lol but the gloves seem fine to me. The texture looks spot on actually especially around the cuff. And chest text seems good.

Gosh thats so faint Im not even sure because other ones theres clearly nothing there. Check other arcs when you get a sec…because the helmet woth the exact X slahs would mean he is always using the same helmet. If it isnt in other arcs it prob isnt here either. I didnt see lines but want to make sure I didn’t overlook anything

PS I added pics of the helmet above to show bubble lens, X, black tube stripes..the unique things. One thing…can u triple check all the arc references for definitive evidence of rear and tear stripes? The helmet with that X slash Id consider a consistent carry over piece from arc to arc and I dont see stripes on the bucket in any arc

Yea man pics on my phone are giving me a heckuva time. I dunno. I think the inner bell should be white period. And Im not sure seen/unseen is a huge factor because in at least 2 panels it is seen…and others not. I think the main point there is it doesnt have to be seen for L1 (and so an alternative could be done…tho again Im not sure what that would be)…so just the line about where it should sit higher should be sufficient. L2 is where it has to be a white rounded bell top at least in there (not a tab or something else)…and if it creeps out a little cool but again not required to be seen in a normal pic. Make sense?

References for left bell… Right bell and you can see the smooth shoulder strap of sorts w tapering… Thats the only line i see needing a spelling correction… be tapered or remove be. I think for Level 1 maybe a line for the left indicating it should be raised and sit higher above the neck line. For Level 2 that there is an inner bell (though I think to get the raising an inner bell is going to be necessary regardless…but it is a detail that can go unseen).

Better. Edit: Putting helmet shots here…one thing to note, the lines in the traps dont seem visible here and Im having difficulty seeing them in other arcs even.

No issues from me. Maybe it should be X slash singular…or mark…as there is just one defined X in all the references. Or 2 slashes in an X pattern. I dunno…the way I initially wrote it, looking now, sounds like someone could take that to mean multiple Xs

Starting this off here. Some parts left purposely TBD as placeholders for discussion. Reference pics can be pulled as the discussions progress. I borrowed text for shared TK parts from our Shadow Stormtrooper CRL primarily…and the current ANH TK CRL if needed. I adjusted parts with some details I noticed in references…then there will be other ANH TK details we need to decide on whether to keep or not being the comic references don't explicitly show them but we may possibly want to keep for continuity and/or kit conversions…or not. Lastly, this build is based on the Issues 59-61 arc and I tried to stick only to those references. I would say that there could potentially be 4 unique versions of this character…and technically this would be Version 3…but for now, being it would be the first completed and only version, we don't need to name it as a version. Here we go... Helmet Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black or dark green. The body of the "ears" are gray. The bars have three or four bumps. Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are blue or black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening is silver. The interior of the aerator is white. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals. Tears and traps are gray in color. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Helmet must have cut/scratch/slash weathering. "X" slashes shall be visible on the left forehead area above the black trim. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Lenses are bubbled. Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Tube stripes are black in color. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and shall free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. Straps texture is smooth. No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps and no elastic is used to secure straps in the back. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Straps shall be glued in front. Straps shall be taper in thickness, being thinner at the front and back ends. Shoulder Armor Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. LEFT SHOULDER TBD Right shoulder is smooth in appearance similar to a scout trooper shoulder bell. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Biceps Biceps are fully closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width. Forearms Forearms are fully sealed and closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms. Hand Plates Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted black and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Gloves Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor. Chest is smooth in appearance. KNIVES SHEATH CHESTPAD TEXT TBD OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Abdomen Armor ABDOMEN ARMOR DESCRIPTION TBD OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. There shall be no visible rivets or snaps on the exterior of the armor. Codpiece CODPIECE ARMOR DESCRIPTION TBD Kidney Armor The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor. The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Kidney armor is separate from posterior armor (ANH style). There shall be no visible rivets or snaps on the exterior of the armor. Cut-out notches at the bottom of the right and left side of the kidney armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 7/8" (22mm) tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior armor plate. Posterior Armor The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Posterior armor is separate from kidney armor (ANH style). There are no visible snaps on the lower center tab. Belt BELT DESCRIPTION TBA The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3” to 3.5” (75-90mm) wide. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Pouches POUCH DESCRIPTION TBD Thermal Detonator (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of a gray cylinder with 2” to 2.68” (50-68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end and a white control panel pad. The control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.5” (190.5mm). No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed. The detonator is attached to the white canvas belt with 1” (25mm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Belt clips shall be made of metal. Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh using glue or rivets. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams. RIGHT THIGH ARMOR KNIFE SHEATH DESCRIPTION TBD OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt is attached without visible rivets. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Optional Accessories Knives KNIVES DESCRIPTION TBD E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

First fit…2 mile plus parade and I survived. Need to fix… -A couple minor strap adjustments, particularly the left bell (go figure), right bicep, left thigh, and crotch -A couple trim spots where I was getting bruised pretty bad (probably after we work the CRL…left forearm, both biceps…maybe trim back of thighs at top a bit more -Little bit more padding in forearms -Some paint touchups…oops lol -Add some soft liner (probably just soft side velcro) to the interior of the chest so it doesnt scrape black off I still need to… -Add black stripes to helmet traps -Slash weathering (which scares me) -Re-finish current left bell I do think it’s possible to CRL this once I finish the last couple things…and then I can just update the left bell later w version 1.3

Thx the idea is there. Def needs work for my taste. Will reprint the updated file when it’s ready and give it another shot. This one is pretty heavy w all the filler up there so a redone version will help w that too I think…all this might very well qualify for L2 as it is all unseen interior stuff (mostly) but I think this can be improved. Tomorrow Im going to take a huge risk n march it in a parade lol!!! Probably a bad idea but I cant help myself

@stevechewbacca here is a look inside the bell mod. definitely not as clean as i would like even though its mostly unseen. i filled the gap between the old printed inner bell and outer bell but ideally that thick section isnt there. you can see the standard tk bell is considerably lower…i also trimmed some of the bottom and sides of it off so it didnt creep out from the outer bell

Gloves right? Some of the photos look straight brown/tan…the first couple especially…others not as much

Just making a note in here…these are the references Im looking at regarding the shoulder height. There are better panels of the bell itself but the arm is at an angle in those where it’s more horizontal. These seem to indicate it sitting above the neck line…and the raised design area on the bell sitting about where the bulk of the shoulder would be…the one panel shows the inner bell though it’s a super zoomed up crop n the artwork is rough in general there.

Thanks! For the temporary moment I will try to make something out of this normal tk bell BUT i will take a pic once it is set to show where I think an updated new inner bell should sit…and will prob need internal supports as well maybe

First test fitting (not of everything). Did some minor trimming in crotch where it was digging into thighs…and did some rear thigh trimming to get more knee bend. Helmet sits perfectly clear of knives no matter how I turn my head. Front and back…no arms as the shoulder bell straps still needed to be fitted today. Happy with the fit I think. Not so happy w the mess in my room ? After this pic, we added velcro beneath the belt to hold it in place so the split cod from ab wouldnt show. Now we come to the one issue…the left shoulder bell. So when putting it in its approx spot, we find out that even though the print has an inner bell to give it some “rise” it’s just not enough compared to what references show. It should sit higher like a neck guard on knight armor. Too low…and I may need to trim down that right shoulder bell a bit (will see when I fit it w the bicep)…and I need a haircut. So we figured since the references do appear to show an inner bell, why not install an actual TK shoulder bell inside? This gives it more height while the bell sits on the shoulder. The issue…i need to trim the inner bell down a bit and figure out how to secure it well inside. Will also need to do some finishing work (paint, sanding etc) on all of the interior that is visible. The goal was to have it all ready for a test in a parade on Friday…Im not sure I will have that shoulder ready by then but will try. Left to do for CRL submission: Left shoulder, helmet stripes, slash weathering Additional stuff: Add fan and mic system