RAIDER

I need some quick feedback on this part if possible please @IcyTrooper @Blackwatch @nanotek @darthRivera The left shoulder. As per the usual, the references are inconsistent and I need to see what the consensus is on this part and if anything needs adjusting. In this shot notice the angled look of the bell aat the bottom as it wraps the arm (angled all the way across…not smooth like a normal TK. Also note the shape of the raised area…and that this seems to just be a shoulder bell by itself… Here is the opposite side of the bell…notice we cannot see the underside of the bell and so dont see the angled look but here the bell appears smooth instead lol which contradicts the previous reference. The shape of the raised area is also different with the “cutout” in the center. Note that it still looks like just a shoulder bell though. Here…tough to make out anything really.other than the raised area which seems to have the cutout. Here we see not a whole lot other than it looks like a shoulder bell with a bit extra size. Now heres where it gets weird…this image is from a faraway look so i had to zoom quite a bit…raised area is entirely different and looks more like an attachment to the bell. And finally…this shows an angled armor part as a bell covering…again taken from another faraway shot. NOW…here is the current model i have… First…its a decent bit larger than a standard TK shoulder bell. Smooth in that it has no ridge line. Does have a raised area that is smooth across the top. This one uses the cutout in the center-side…make note of the “swoop” upwards. It has the side-look shape which i think is right…and is using the angled (as opposed to rounded/smooth) arm opening at the bottom. My biggest questions… Does the raised area and style of the cutout look good or does anyone see something that may need adjusting? Does the angled arm opening (and then how that angles the lower parts of the bell) seem ok?

Armor update. After attempting the modification of TK parts and not being pleased with achieving the unique details nor the overall weight of the armor, I opted for some custom 3D modeled parts… The chest…unassembled… Assembled with fiberglass backing…view to show upper details. The squared neck line w recessed area (similar to a Shoretrooper). The notches in the shoulders are just guidelines for the shoulder straps. Lower view to show the return edge seen in references… Straight on view…

To add on the hand plates…if you’re intent is to build to what we call “Level 2” or “Specialist” (these are the blue requirements on the CRL) you will need latex hand plates which would settle the thickness for ya as u wouldnt trim em.

So the hilt is required basically? Ultimately I will roll w whatever…esp w what other dets have laid out before…just trying to make it make sense to me lol…for it to be required but not really which then makes it…optional (?). I dunno.

The final bits... Lightsaber...not sure exactly how we should rock this. Not a common thing I've ever dealt with...if I remember right, it was discussed earlier to put this in the mandatory reqs. I get it...but w/ the line about local laws...I think it just sounds better to leave that out and move it to optional. Is there anything else we can type up about the lightsaber description? Again, I have no idea how typical sabers from SLD or TFE are written. E-11...standard issue unless anything special was noticed in panels. For this (and any other weapon)...being optional...I'm ok including whatever weapons any version uses like most of our other CRLs. Lightsaber The lightsaber is accurate to what is shown in the illustrations within "Star Wars by Marvel Comics (2018) - Issue #59. The lightsaber is only included as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws. E-11 Blaster (Optional) Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

the first fitting! exciting a couple things id suggest as a gml would probably mention it (i know mine here in florida would)…tried marking spots in yellow for ya… -rotate the shoulder bells forward -see if theres a way to minimize that gap between belt and pouches -bund should not creep out below the belt in either front or back -crotch bunching (see the crl model…this would be probably ur most pressing fix) hope that helps! feel free to post more pics if u need more feedback. looking fwd to seeing a sharp approval from ya soon!!!!

sounds good to me! once thighs are posted i will get the lightsaber and blaster prepped tomorrow and the text should be wrapped up then we will need model pictures of everything to make sure the build matches the standards (and determine if adjustments to the build are needed) @darthRivera i will let @IcyTrooper determine how he wants to coordinate that with you

To muddy the waters further lol... Higher up…rivet, squared bottom corners. Here looks lower…no rivet. And here it's hard to tell, but I'd say high again. So all that to say…it looks like 50/50 on it being higher or lower…50/50 on the rivet…and 50/50 on the bottom corners of the ammo pouch. Not sure if there's a way to ok both or if that makes it too confusing.

The beauty of comics lol.

Just pinging a follow up @darthRivera on pouches and @IcyTrooper on those thigh/ammo observations. holler!

Im not familiar w the TK Commander thigh…but would these indicate ANH? visible top ridge Though of course theres this shot showing it higher up tho the bottom corner does look rounded…also no rivets.

Explain for me whats going on w that foam plz. Just curious. @Scubacat Ud be melting all the snow away in this puppy lol

@darthRivera Alright So lets clarify this n give me your thoughts…the strap from what we can see loops behind the pouch. Yes? I dont see any visible loops on the side of the pouch. Pouches…Id like some approx measures so we dont get a crazy array of pouch sizes and stay in a certain “pocket”. Can you provide some as guidelines? Are these similar to pouches we see on Sandtroopers for example (like Cav has what looks to be a modified medium Spanish pouch)?

Now for the leg portions and we are close to finished! For thigh armor I highlighted a couple things to verify against references. Thigh pouches I have as one entry unless you think we should split into 2 separate. I highlighted where I added elastic as an option for the left thigh strap. For the right thigh, I highlighted one little word that I just need verified…there is just one strap looping behind the pouch and connecting to the belt metal rings @darthRivera? I'm also wondering if we need to be any bit more descriptive of the pouches shape, if they have flaps or not, approx. measures, etc.. What do you all think? I didn't notice anything of question on the shins or boots, but verify just to be sure we didn't miss anything from references. Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt must be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Thigh Pouches There is a medium pouch on the left thigh held by two straps. The pouch is black in color and made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch is proportional to the size of the wearer and must match dreferences. The strap is approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Black in color made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material. On the right thigh is a large pouch, held by a strap. The straps are fastened to the belt with square metal rings. The pouch is black in color and made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch is proportional to the size of the wearer and must match references. The strap is approximately 1.5" (40mm) wide. Black in color made of leather, or leather-like material. Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of black leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot.

I know we will check the text when it publishes but a couple things… hand plates are marked as black. should be white id say list the pauldron as simply that since the description lists the color

Looks good. Just fix “may BE painted in white” I prob wont have time till tomorrow to post legs but feel free to post if ud like. Id say split the thigh pouch out separately like we did the other accessories.

Oh no my mistake there. “2 or 4” is referencing the leather straps…not the rivets…so should just be 2

Not sure why I said legs…we still need belt, TD, and holster first. For belt…highlighted some elements to make sure we are good on wording or to make sure we are good on keeping them (particularly the Level 2 reqs). Removed the one L2 req regarding belt placement in relation to ab buttons ('cause none exist). TD…just a few highlights of things to examine or clarify. Holster…likewise just a couple minor details highlighted for verification. @darthRivera if you're able to post some references here to support lines, that'd be great. Belt The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and on each end of the belt. The soft belt proper is made of white canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3” to 3.5” (75-90mm) wide. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached. There are two square metal rings that hold the large pouch on the right side. There is a lightsaber holder/hook on the right side of the left drop box. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The corners of the black plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Drop boxes must be attached using white elastic and must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Thermal Detonator (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of a gray cylinder with 2” to 2.68” (50-68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end and a white control panel pad. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.5” (190.5mm). No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed. The detonator is attached to the white canvas belt with 1” (25mm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Belt clips shall be made of metal and must be silver. Holster It is made of black leather or leather-like material. It is worn on the left side of the canvas belt and is attached via two or four leather or leather-like material straps to the canvas belt from behind. Affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom, one on each side, painted in white. Fasteners may be rivets, snaps or Chicago screws. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The Holster is affixed with four fasteners, two of each side, painted in white.

Lets lock it in then n move to the legs

it works good. better than bondo…but the amount im needing to use to get that ab smooth was insane n would probably cause snaps to pop or armor to crack at the shoulders/chest w the weight. once i get the 3D print i will start posting on that again

I need ur smoothing technique lol. Nice work!

Back with an update! After working an reworking the polyflex on the chest and ab, ive found im just not happy w how its turning out…in particular the weight of it. The armor is really heavy. So for the torso parts I shifted gears and hopefully will have a 3D printed product to work on soon. For now, I received my first pics of the custom Spanish Medium Pouches for the belt! White tabbed per reference!

Its tough to say for sure. In earlier issues (which aren’t necessarily our reference point), these guys do use soft parts clearly. Art shows it real clear. But these issues isnt as clear AND if it helps, the issues just before this it appears to definitely be a hard abdomen. I can link pics later. Considering this CRL character might be able to be split into a few versions, I think its safe to do a hard abdomen here. If going for the earliest version, requiring a soft goods abdomen/back. Thinking out loud here.

no i think he is referencing the white rectangles as armor and the black as just the undersuit. i can see how u could reach that conclusion. for me i dont see it as definitive…like it could be the intent of the artist…maybe it isnt. the one thing i dont see in any of the panels is “folding” or bend in that area. it always looks prim and stiff…those ridge lines are always perfectly straight

no prob. but he and all variants have always been eligible…see the original reference thread from 2017. currently only gar saxon force arena version has been presented as a build by @MrShadow not completed yet tho if u or anyone else takes up another version we can regroup the reference pics into a separate thread as needed