RAIDER

@TX-20113

Id peruse the pinned build pge…

If you look at other issues outside of this arc, you see the same characters doing twisting and contorting and the art clearly shows folds and bends. In this arc it doesnt…and in every arc there are clear differences to show how the armor has evolved/changed. So yea you’re right the logic cuts both ways…but maybe Im applying it differently cuz i some arcs it’s definitive and in others its not (so definitively not? lol). Im sticking w that haha For me at least this was one of the delineations to distinguish the variations of the costume among each story arc…art definitively shows folds and bends in some arcs…here it definitively doesnt leading to the hard armor lean. (fwiw I dont disagree w the doubt…we brought it up and im even having an alternate soft part made for my Cav build for kicks giggles and if I decide to do another variant that clearly shows the folds/bends). With TK style costumes though the cod/ab connection can go both ways…and speaking for builder flexibility…it seems to make sense to allow a fused piece at L1 for anyone making a kit conversion (though Id personally split it).

its seen in that panel BUT it wont be seen in a normal costume suit up cuz 99% of the time itll be covered by the canvas belt. kreel wont be doing any jumping like in that panel in real life im betting lol…and no trooper should be required to show a gml an internal shot showing the split beneath the belt i kid kinda but thats really what the L2 boils down to ps…we did discuss the ab possibly being a soft good but in the discussion it was determined there was no definitive way to 100% say that in the art…and so we left it as a hard armor part. keep in mind as panel to panel consistency is difficult enough as it is, CRLs for comic characters tend to get waaaay more flex than a on-screen characters

I thought (and my wires may be crossed w Cav), that the split ab/cod would be an L2 requirement. Cod is white.

To be fair @Bfkn the black outline is pretty thin in reference…much less than the ROTJ exmaple shown above.

Its not black around the greeblie? In pics , it looked like it

Since the CRL update I believe @Bfkn may be the only build that’s been approved at Specialist and would be your best example. (there is one other swampy specialist…the one you pictured…retired and approved back in 2016 i believe…outdated for sure) Indeed, there should be NO gray in between the nose bridge stripes. That is what the original game references show…black stripes ONLY and so a standard ROTJ scout decal would not be what you need. The snout greeblie would be gray with a black outline. EDIT: The amount of lines is flexible (hence no count in the CRL text) BUT if u examine the reference it appears to be more than 5.

i didnt answer ur other question lol. weathering…again i would say check the references. being a low res vid game character there is flexibility BUT the reference pics are your starting point followed by the special notes paragraph below the character pics in the CRL (see pic) Emphasis is on the words “slightly” and “minor” tho i think if an update ever happened we could examine if those words are accurate Anyways here is a link to the reference thread…u should notice that the weathering is indeed white scuffing…not the black spray paint style often seen on ROTJ scouts

The original reference is from a low res video game. (see the pinned reference thread). Being a mudtrooper ur accustomed to the “pantones” but those are only listed in the CRL for that costume because the paint used on set and in production for muddies is known…a person in the paint department shared that information. im not sure u will find another crl mentioning pantones in the legion…dont think any do. anyways, If ur trying to achieve the closest-to-reference paint for a swampy, the best we can point you to is that reference thread which has screencaps of the game the character originated from. Hope that helps answer a bit.

Im the worst with colors/shades but will tag @Bfknto share the color(s) he used. Edit: He is the CRL model from the update we did not too long ago

It may be that you just need to get the bund/crotch retailored for a better fit. The crotch itself seems oversized which is contributing to the bunching. Where the belt is in these current pics…that is where your waistline is or is it higher/lower?

Ayyy! My guy! Your ears must have been itching ? Nice on all things…close!!! And here’s a couple shots I took of my friend’s Chevelle at work lol

Leather goods arrived! Spot on. Weather has been hot and super humid and so and raining when I get home from work so at a standstill at the moment till I can get a good day of painting in. Then I can start attaching these (semi-permanently) to the armor. Chest pad will be a challenge to get to fit on the contoured chest. Pouches will go on the canvas belt at the edge of the belt armor (like a Sandtrooper) when I ge the belt. Thigh straps are extra long and the “pad” under the sheath (which is a continuous piece w the straps per reference) will need to be cut and the pad trimmed back to the sheath as well.

@minimo Ur a standard scout…live closeby to assist?

I used the same paint and then used a rustoleum satin clear coat. Its nice to be able to magic eraser off scuffs BUT the finish was a little more shiny then i wanted. Initially, I assembled armor then painted. Repainted multiple times over the years and just tape the straps inside the armor and tape off whatever else needs taping off and paint/coat. You can either put greeblies on and then tape off n paint or wait…main thing try n keep the greeblies matte black (unpainted)

More leather updates…chest pad/knife sheaths (will be black)… Thigh knife sheath/strap. This will get screwed into the thigh armor to prevent sagging…

Right shoulder bell. Has no ridge like a standard TK. More closely resembles a scout trooper bell. The scale on this was pretty big and so I had to cut the armor down to get it closer to a normal TK size. Not exact but alot closer than the original print… Before trimming… After trimming with comparison…

Abdomen armor update… Unassembled. Assembled with fiberglass backing progress…

@IcyTrooper @darthRivera Yes both sides of my 3D print are the same. Do you think one side should have U cutout and the other filled in or same on both sides? Here is an underside look of the thickness.. As I look at it, it seems like the raised area cutout doesnt really swoop up…should it be more like this? And finally the issue of scale…these show a comprison to a normal TK bell and then over a bicep piece. Thoughts on scale/proportions compared to what art is showing?

I need some quick feedback on this part if possible please @IcyTrooper @Blackwatch @nanotek @darthRivera The left shoulder. As per the usual, the references are inconsistent and I need to see what the consensus is on this part and if anything needs adjusting. In this shot notice the angled look of the bell aat the bottom as it wraps the arm (angled all the way across…not smooth like a normal TK. Also note the shape of the raised area…and that this seems to just be a shoulder bell by itself… Here is the opposite side of the bell…notice we cannot see the underside of the bell and so dont see the angled look but here the bell appears smooth instead lol which contradicts the previous reference. The shape of the raised area is also different with the “cutout” in the center. Note that it still looks like just a shoulder bell though. Here…tough to make out anything really.other than the raised area which seems to have the cutout. Here we see not a whole lot other than it looks like a shoulder bell with a bit extra size. Now heres where it gets weird…this image is from a faraway look so i had to zoom quite a bit…raised area is entirely different and looks more like an attachment to the bell. And finally…this shows an angled armor part as a bell covering…again taken from another faraway shot. NOW…here is the current model i have… First…its a decent bit larger than a standard TK shoulder bell. Smooth in that it has no ridge line. Does have a raised area that is smooth across the top. This one uses the cutout in the center-side…make note of the “swoop” upwards. It has the side-look shape which i think is right…and is using the angled (as opposed to rounded/smooth) arm opening at the bottom. My biggest questions… Does the raised area and style of the cutout look good or does anyone see something that may need adjusting? Does the angled arm opening (and then how that angles the lower parts of the bell) seem ok?

Armor update. After attempting the modification of TK parts and not being pleased with achieving the unique details nor the overall weight of the armor, I opted for some custom 3D modeled parts… The chest…unassembled… Assembled with fiberglass backing…view to show upper details. The squared neck line w recessed area (similar to a Shoretrooper). The notches in the shoulders are just guidelines for the shoulder straps. Lower view to show the return edge seen in references… Straight on view…

To add on the hand plates…if you’re intent is to build to what we call “Level 2” or “Specialist” (these are the blue requirements on the CRL) you will need latex hand plates which would settle the thickness for ya as u wouldnt trim em.

So the hilt is required basically? Ultimately I will roll w whatever…esp w what other dets have laid out before…just trying to make it make sense to me lol…for it to be required but not really which then makes it…optional (?). I dunno.

The final bits... Lightsaber...not sure exactly how we should rock this. Not a common thing I've ever dealt with...if I remember right, it was discussed earlier to put this in the mandatory reqs. I get it...but w/ the line about local laws...I think it just sounds better to leave that out and move it to optional. Is there anything else we can type up about the lightsaber description? Again, I have no idea how typical sabers from SLD or TFE are written. E-11...standard issue unless anything special was noticed in panels. For this (and any other weapon)...being optional...I'm ok including whatever weapons any version uses like most of our other CRLs. Lightsaber The lightsaber is accurate to what is shown in the illustrations within "Star Wars by Marvel Comics (2018) - Issue #59. The lightsaber is only included as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws. E-11 Blaster (Optional) Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.