IcyTrooper

How are you guys doing? Just wanted to post it here that there is talk about these costumes going to the Bounty Hunters Guild (BHG) detachment with the MW designation. I haven't heard any information in a bit on that but it was brought up to me that it was being sought.

That lighting looks really good under the chest! Are you noticing the clear ABS and such is more brittle than the colored ABS?

On to the Thigh Armor, I think this is pretty standard: Thigh Armor Realistic style thigh armor. Armor is painted satin black. Two white chevron stripes are present on the front of the right thigh. Stripes are approximately 2 inches (50.8mm) wide with a ½ inch (12.7mm) gap in between. Thigh armor has a flat triangle area above the knee which transitions to a ridge line that runs up the front of the thigh to the top edge. Rear of armor has a rounded, indented area. Armor is seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled are shown. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of gray tones.

Thanks guys! I posted a review for the pauldron here to simplify it based on the great work you guys did:

Hey guys, thanks for the hard work on this. I'll be diving into this as well, pinged a few more DCAs to get us through the finish line. @Blackwatch thanks for continuing the oversight on this

I hate to rehash some discussions but I'm going to make this a priority costume for me to review with @tipperaryred and @Dropkick. I'd like to quickly go through each item as we can one more time. We can use what you guys have come up with to start, but I'll be active with this for any adjustments. Pauldron Must be red in color and made from vinyl, leather or leather-like material. The pauldron differs from a standard pauldron in that the edges nearest the shoulder are cut at a 45 degree angle. There will be a black edge at the red area of the pauldron. The red area of the pauldron is made from the same material as the rest of the pauldron. There are 6-7 sections that are stitched around the neck of the wearer before the red area of the pauldron. Any stitching is black. There is an elastic strap that runs under the bicep and is attached to the pauldron with 2 black snaps. The strap is approximately 1/2 inch (12.7mm) wide. The pauldron opens and closes via one opening in the back with an overlapping closure to give the appearance of a singular piece. There is no visible method of the closure method. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are 7 sections that are stitched around the neck of the wearer before the red area of the pauldron.

Sorry guys, I didn't realize we didn't have a DCA on this one. I'll have to process each section and sift through it, I'm really sorry. I'll see how fast I can assist.

Allll the scouts!

Dudeeeee, that looks awesome!

The Kama is going to need a little work with some understanding. I also added L2 details for the buckle and connectors. Kama Purge Trooper style kama. The main body of the kama is black. Center bottom edge of kama has a vertical cut. The kama has a black trim (bias tape edging) around the outside edge. The kama bottom edge vertical cut has a thinner black trim (bias tape edging) than the outer edge. Kama wraps around cod and posterior armor under the belt. Front edges align about 1 inch (25.4mm) behind the outside edge of front belt boxes. Kama is made from a heavy fabric material like denim or duck cloth. Leather or vinyl is not acceptable. Kama extends down to align with the bottom of the knee armor. Black leather or leather-like, ¾ inch (19mm) to 1 inch (25.4mm) wide connector straps are attached to kama. Two-pronged clips that are metal or have the appearance of metal at the end of the strap connect to the buckle which is centered below the front of the belt. The buckle is metal or has the appearance of metal and is oblong with 8 sides and a hollowed center with 6 sides that matches the reference images. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The two-pronged clips at the end of each strap that connect to the buckle are metal. The buckle is metal.

This will be what is uploaded to the Belt on the first page: Belt Realistic style clone belt, belt boxes, and detonator. Belt, boxes, and detonator are painted satin black. Belt front between front boxes has three (3) vertical rectangle indents which are spaced apart by two protruding rectangle areas. The rest of the belt is flat surfaced with raised edging on the top and bottom that run along the rest of the belt. Eight (8) belt boxes are attached to the belt with four (4) on each side. The two largest boxes are in front with an angled top surface that is higher toward the center. The smallest boxes are located behind the front boxes, about ⅛" (3.2mm) apart and have an angled end on top. The medium sized matching boxes, with flat top cover are about ⅛" (3.2mm) from the smallest boxes. Left rear box is spaced closer to the detonator and has two square buttons in the top left corner, and two (2) dashed indented detail marks on bottom right. Right rear box is spaced closer to the detonator and has a bar with two (2) small cylinders centered and two (2) dashed indented detail marks on the bottom left. A detonator is centered and attached to the back of the belt. Detonator tube is about 2.25" (57.15mm) diameter with wider detailed end caps. Seven (7) horizontally aligned square buttons are on the left side of the tube when viewed from behind. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boxes are notched on the back and fit flush to the belt. Back of the belt, between the rear boxes and the detonator, has horizontal ribbing. Detonator has ⅛" (3.2mm) to ¼" (6.3mm) inch wide rectangle base, connecting the detonator to the belt.

Ouch! You know, I didn't even think about the current with those. I'm gonna say I was thrown off by the fact they were LEDs and usually don't generate the heat we're used to...but then again, electrical is my worse subject! I have some time working on aircraft and any time it involved actual wiring I was like, well here's a challenge for today. May have to run separate batteries as you've done but perhaps one for lower body and one for upper body would suffice?

Onto the Belt we go: Belt Realistic style clone belt, belt boxes, and detonator. Belt, boxes, and detonator are painted satin black. Belt front between front boxes has three (3) vertical rectangle indents which are spaced apart by two protruding rectangle areas. The rest of the belt is flat surfaced with raised edging on the top and bottom that run along the rest of the belt. Eight (8) belt boxes are attached to the belt with four (4) on each side. The two largest boxes are in front with an angled top surface that is higher toward the center. The smallest boxes are located behind the front boxes, about ⅛" (3.2mm) apart and have an angled end on top. The medium sized matching boxes, with flat top cover are about ⅛" (3.2mm) from the smallest boxes. Left rear box is spaced closer to the detonator and has two square buttons in the top left corner, and two (2) dashed indented detail marks on bottom right. Right rear box is spaced closer to the detonator and has a bar with two (2) small cylinders centered and two (2) dashed indented detail marks on the bottom left. A detonator is centered and attached to the back of the belt. Detonator tube is about 2.25" (57.15mm) diameter with wider detailed end caps. Seven (7) horizontally aligned square buttons are on the left side of the tube when viewed from behind. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boxes are notched on the back and fit flush to the belt. Back of the belt, between the rear boxes, has horizontal ribbing. Detonator has ⅛" (3.2mm) to ¼" (6.3mm) inch wide rectangle base, connecting the Detonator to the Belt.

@TX11559 is this for a shadow stormtrooper or death trooper? The title says one thing and this post says another

Thanks for the info @Sithtrooper!

I was looking at that ans was thinking, you could probably cut that canvas to go over those details and glue them/smooth them out over that part? That would make it appear as one piece? Not sure if I did a good job explaining that? I like to think of it like you would when using a vinyl wrap or shrink wrap and heating it to adhere to the details of whatever surface it is being applied to.

Helllllllll yeah!

I second @tipperaryred in checking with your GML. They can also reach out to us on the 501st Detachment Costume Advice subforum (within the GML/GWL 501st forum) and we can assist them with any questions.

Duddddde this is looking so good. Thanks for linking that product.

I think we could do it as a Level 2 detail: Posterior Armor Realistic style posterior armor. Armor is painted satin black. Cod and posterior armor connect at the hips. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Each side of the posterior armor connects to the cod armor via a single snap that matches the color of the armor. The connection point and shape matches that of the reference image.

That change in lighting is so worth it!

Can we actually see this in the game with the same character or in the texture file? If we can't see it but only infer it or see it via texture then it may be a L2 item.

This should be a straightforward one. I couldn't find anything out of the ordinary: Posterior Armor Realistic style posterior armor. Armor is painted satin black. Cod and posterior armor connect at the hips. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones.

Ahh don't think I've seen a flexible LED filament that looks that consistent across the entire length. That is awesome!

Man, you are sooooo good at this!