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Blackwatch

Detachment Costume Advisor[CMD-DCA]
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Everything posted by Blackwatch

  1. After CRL team discussion about the colors represented on the pack, I will be changing the explosive colors to "black" in all cases. After further discussion we will include the pack frame as an L1 Option, with a frameless pack as an L2 option. SO-please disregard the text above which states "primer grey". The first page CRL proposal is updated.
  2. The pack text needs to be pared down still, but this side shot really helps with proportions.
  3. Neal is the top edge of the pouch on the top edge of the belt or below it? My bottom charge is colliding with the pouch.
  4. OK- to cut down confusion, Im reposting relevant images here, cropped for clarity. Ill also repost the proposed CRL as a direct copy of of what is on the front page. This is where the CRL proosal stood at last May. WARNING - THIS CRL IS PENDING APPROVAL AND REQUIREMENTS THEREIN ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE Updated 5/9. Please review and post your thoughts for CRL Team consideration. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Appearance For 501st approval: Should be clean shaven as seen in the comics. Hair should give the appearance of being short in length. Hat, Olive For 501st approval: Fabric is a medium weight suiting material of olive green. Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6 mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps†overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6 mm) high. Front bill extends 3" down, decorated with (5) (6) or (7) concentric stitches. Imperial Code Disk positioned in the center of the front vertical “flap.†For level two certification (if applicable): Code Disk has a notch detail on the outermost disk. Green Imperial Jumpsuit For 501st approval: One piece olive green coverall / jumpsuit / flight suit with a front invisible zipper and mandarin collar. Each shoulder has an Imperial Army patch that sits about 1 inch below the shoulder seam Below the patch on each arm there is a small pocket with the rectangular flap closure that ends just above the elbow. 2 large chest pockets. There are no leg pockets below the knees. 2 large cargo pockets sit on the outside of the legs from around mid-thigh extending to around the bottom of the knee, with a rectangular flap covering the top. For level 2 certification (if applicable) Mandarin collar is closed by a chevron shaped strap across the neck. Collar is closed by a rectangular piece of velcro. Stitching is visible from the exterior. Imperial Army Patch For 501st approval: A shield shaped patch. The patch has an Imperial cog symbol approximately 2.75 to 3 inches in diameter. The background of the patch has a more narrow shield shaped design on top of a box colored a darker shade of green. Imperial Rank Bar Rank consists of colored plastic tiles mounted on a metallic finish square Rank bar corners are hard angle or slightly rounded. The rank of Lieutenant (2 red tiles on top of 2 blue tiles) is the only acceptable rank. Gloves For 501st approval: Black, wrist length gloves constructed of a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Enclosed fingers. No buckles, straps, etc. May have three stitched lines or square padding on the back of the hand. For level 2 certification (if applicable) No buckles, straps, etc. Must have square padding on back of hand. Web Harness For 501st approval: Olive green colored, double strap "H" harness which travels from the lower back, and up over the shoulders. Harness is made of 2 inch black nylon webbing. The harness system attaches to the belt. Visible snap-hook style fasteners that attach to belt eyelets are acceptable. Tri-glides may be present on front or back of suspenders. Back of suspenders may be permanently fastened to belt, but not required. Left suspender has a comlink clip/holster. Right suspender has a vanity pouch attached. For level 2 certification (if applicable) The main body of harness fasteners are discreetly hidden behind the belt, or it is directly mounted to belt Harness is fitted to the wearer and no tri-glides are present. Comlink is present. Belt For 501st approval: Belt is a 2.25" wide nylon military style quick release web belt. Belt is olive green in color. Belt has grommets that run along both the top and bottom of its length. For level two certification (if applicable): Belt buckle is olive green in color. Belt Pouches For 501st approval: Belt pouches are olive green in color and should be made of nylon or similar material. 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the right of the belt buckle where the harness meets the belt. A gas-mask style pouch sits on the right of the above pouches. A tactical triple AK magazine PALS belt pouch should be on the rear of the belt. An electrobinoculars pouch sits on the left of the belt buckle where the harness meets the belt. 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the left of the electrobinoculars pouch. For level 2 certification (if applicable) Electrobinoculars are present Boots For 501st approval: Calf high black leather or leather like material. Jackboot or similar style Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. Comlink For 501st approval: Imperial Style Comlink to be worn in the comlink clip on the left suspender. Electrobinoculars For 501st approval: Scratch built or high end prop replica. SE-14 Blaster Pistol For 501st approval: Scratch built or high end prop replica. Holster For 501st approval: Retention style open back holster made to fit the SE-14 Blaster Pistol. A strap goes across the top to hold the blaster in place. Holster is worn on the right side so it hangs below all belt pouches and after the MA47 double handcuff MOLLE PALS belt pouches. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Proposal Review: Earlier certain things had been decided upon, please review: Changed Flightsuit to Jumpsuit to avoid confusion with TIE flightsuits. Jumpsuit: Pockets added to each sleeve under patch now required. Cargo pocket requirement added. Added rectangular stitching for collar closure in Level 2. Harness: Comlink holster/Clip now required on Left suspender. Vanity pouch now required on Right suspender. Belt: Correct pouch configuration now required. Gloves: Olive green gloves required for approval. Square padding on back of hand required for Level 2. Added length descriptor Boots: Removed option for hobnails. Comlink: Added into accessories. Holster: Changed style of acceptable holster. Upon discussion with the LMOs, this uniform is considered unique to one character and has been changed from a generic officer to "Lieutenant Janeck Sunber" Appearance was added of being clean shaven with the appearance of short hair to represent the character. Replaced the handcuff pouches with a more accurate description: 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut DISCUSSION: The pouches were discussed and pretty well defined on page 1 and 2. What is not well defined is the boots, which match the appearance of the Army Troopers , Engineers and Sappers. IE they are fairly short and filthy. While a bloused jackboot can be used for L1 approval, I feel that the size for an L2 boot should be the Commuter or Commuter II boot used by the other troopers. I found two pair on Ebay easily. Should they be black? the appearance is filthy, and all other green troopers indicate green boots. My own boots are green (spraypainted with Montana Gold Olive Green) and heavily weathered. Boots For 501st approval: Calf high black leather or leather like material. Jackboot or similar style Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. I propose copying the IAT verbiage for L2. For level 2 certification (if applicable) Olive green 8”-9” high boots. Free of laces, decorative sticking, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Zippers on the inside of the boots are acceptable, so long as they are concealed
  5. i really love this photo of Nightingales leader Krysis and myself
  6. I agree wholeheartedly that the weathering should be subtle. Gear is not battered and worn-these aren't Republic Clones but Imperial Specialists.
  7. Thanks,!! I did a parade Saturday it's quite easy to wear
  8. having seen a boot or three made, heres my thoughts: Unless you mod the sole it will look wrong. The boot shape may be right depending on the boot. You can glue vinyl to it, but I honestly dont know if it will stick. We had a Tusken here made with rubber boots and the FIRST thing it did was have the boot wrappings fall off. Like the first time it was worn. I dont know what kind of glue it was===shoegoo or something rubbery, but it did nto stick at all. It may work, and yuo wont know until you try it.
  9. that tk style helmet with a visor is jus so freakin cool
  10. CONGRATULATIONS TROOPER! There are VERY few of the IATs out there. You are in on the ground floor!!!
  11. I had this though as well. If I had the pack here I would cover the frame with 3MM sintra and repaint. Looks like satin canyon black Rustoleum2X I use TONS of that paint. I have also considered the frame/ no frame option for Levels. The simple fact is, while I tend to make almost everything , most people are going to order the pack and the pack is going to be built the way the pack is going to be built.
  12. wow I love this! thank you for posting all your photos. I love seeing the work--and effort--that goes into these builds, especially one from scratch like this. A nice kit build is one thing but this is no kit. Makes me itch to see it done!
  13. Raider touched on something there. Others will come along and read the WIPS--see the victories, and the struggles. In the end, it ALL helps. I post my failtures...it helps people learn what not to do. Posting perfection all the time really doesnt help people learn, when they only see the finished product. I post my mistakes.
  14. Not knowing how his pack is made, I dont know. My 6mm sintra is tough as all get out. I just finished another full armor costume made out of it yesterday. Its TOUGH. but I dont know how his is made. I just looked at our reference photos and a frame is not seen there. BUT-as we have learned in other discussions in the Army subtropics just because you do not see it, does not mean it is not present. Ask him what his base material is, and how strong the pack would be without the frame. if the frame IS required, then the CK pack requires a frame. Lets find out for sure first before we proceed. And Im glad hes making progress on it too cause I want to rock this thing once yours is approved.
  15. Ill be following this now, so please go ahead and post up your pics so we can get a CRL topic started, and we can continue to consider this your WIP thread. I just checked the other reference pics posted in other DT topics, more is always better. Have you considered forming the armor with Sintra? I just completed another suit with it this week. I used TK parts and the only drawing in existance of the armor were building and figgered it out that way. I prototype in cardboard and move on from there. On your leg / thigh issues splitting it at the front may give you what you want, it may not. It seemed like every couple of weeks we were redoing a phase 1 clone thigh because the gap was too big (he could sit) but it showed too much black. We used a lot of parking lot sign material to add material back in, and bondo and repaint. I would like to see this project move forward, so ive got it marked to watch.
  16. I know mines wordy but we can hack it down. Im sure theres other ways of saying it too. Its not a super complicated pack, but it has wierd shapes that have to be defined.
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