Blackwatch

I found a set of colors. Since international names as well as monitor settings may vary, I suggest (and I may be wrong!) I suggest the color "apple" from the following chart. No, thats not an international color, but its a description and I know theres more than one shade of 'apple red" just as this chart shows us 20, so its a direction. I compared the refernces pictures to my phone with htis image on it. Lighting changes this color dramatically as we see from the reference shots.

Ok just posting this here for everyones review. Ive fixed all the colors and cleaned it up. Boots For 501st approval: Mid- Calf high black or olive green leather or leather like material. Jackboot or "Commuter" type boot required. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted to match the boot. If jackboot is used, trouser leg shall be "bloused" down over boot shaft to show no more than 9" (23cm) of the boot. "Commuter" boot is already the correct height. Tread on the soles and heel are acceptable. Weathering on boots is acceptable. For level 2 certification (if applicable) "Commuter" style boot 8-9" (20-23cm) in height. Calf high boots such as "kersey" style are not acceptable.

-----------------------------UPDATED MAY 2020------------------------------------------------ Troopers Looking at the source art, the boots are short. while we do consider the Commuter 2 boot to be preferred due to its very low height of not more than 9" while retaining the look of a simple boot , not everyone can find them . You can use regular old Jackboots at this time, per the CRL for Level 1 approval. If you have tall boots, ___EDITED______ If you have taller boots tuck the legs in to give the appearance of short boots. OR buy cheap round two engineer boots and cut the shaft down to 8-9 inches. OR Buy the commuter II style boot which meets the intent of the new, unpublished CRL. UNTIL THE NEW CRL GOES INTO EFFECT, THE CURRENT CRL WILL REMAIN VALID.

I found a boot blousing tutorial that I like well enough, theres other ways, but this will get people going if they have not done it before. Ill post in a new link.

Agree with field grey as well. When I saw this costume for the very first time thats the only color name that came to mind, from my years of painting military models and figures. regarding the models pistol to meit looks glossy black, reflecting. I will make the color changes to the helmet, and as we go along.

I had my mounts for the clamps pop riveted onto the top explosive, but in moving it around so much I popped them both off. Today I get to take the two top charges off, put newmounts on and put the washers beneath them, and put the boxes, clamps and explosve back on . My pack is sintra boxes and back plate with PVC tube explosives. its pretty light!

Steve I see your points, and considering that this is art, and is based on the established canon Veers armor we are reusing the text of that armor. The ATAT Commander armor CRL text has been copied and pasted here, with the only difference being the color. It can be added, but this is not mentioned in the In-Use CRL, and is not deifined in the CRL photos attached to that CRL. Ill add a line that says ATAT Commander style armor to the chest armor. On the panel i will redefine it. The art is based on the behind the scenes shot of veers without the ab plate, and the tunic flap terminates about 3" to the right of the centerline. We cannot see the top, nor side of the flap in the art, and must work from the front visual. It will be up to the wearer to determine how high it will rise, since if we make it very specific, the LMO may not agree, and a GML would be free to refuse if it were not created as a Officer blouse style flap. we simply do not have evidence of that in the art. Chest discussion: The Snow Commander CRL, which was not part of the discussion with the LMO last year, mentions this. I can add the text of the snow commander as an option for attaching the front and back. For consideration, as copied from the AT AT Commanders CRL: Mid-chest/Rib strapping to back plate. made of nylon or poly webbing with no distinguishable stitching at least 30mm wide. Elastic is Authorized. No noticeable stitching is present. Strapping from backpack is connected to chest armor via a metal wire-like, squared off "U"-shaped fixture. Fixture is secured via two rivets (Split or saddlers OR any flat-cap style), one over the other, and is attached to the inside of chest armor, protruding outwards. Hardware is silver Proposal: (to be added to front armor text) Front to back webbing connector may be made of grey elastic or webbing 1"-1.25" (25mm -32mm) wide passing under the arm connecting the back armor to the front armor. No noticeable stitching is present. Strapping from front armor may be connected to back armor via a squared off "U"-shaped silver wire fixture. The wire fixture will be secured via split rivets or saddlers OR any flat-cap style rivets, one over the other, and is attached to the inside of chest and back armor. The loop may protrude past the armor edge. Hardware is silver. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is a silver popper on the webbing, approx 1" from the Back Armor. Black rubber trim, in the neck-line of the Back Armor.

If you would like to read and or comment on the proposal, it is found here:

My helmet is almost done. The paint color used is Rustoleum 2X Granite satin. It does not seem to be the toughest paint, so I will give it another coat after 48 hours, and I will also seal it. I feel the color is much closer to the original source art. Elvis trooper greeblies for AT AT Commander helmet, Blockade Runner Supply comm box, UVEX saftey goggles. Clips are made of strip brass riveted to the helmet, and painted to match. I just put the six screw cap covers on, and the rubber trim will go on after the second coat of paint, and sealer coat goes on.

V 2.2 proposal Submitted for consideration. Required Costume Components Special Notes: The armor parts shall be accurate or close approximation in gloss, semi-gloss black, satin or matte black. Weathering is not acceptable. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet For 501st approval: Scout style helmet accurate in shape and form. Eye Lens in black, dark green or silver mirrored. Helmet is painted to match armor. Flat or concave elevator bolts. Helmet may have scout detailing or left plain. If detailing is present, it is black or dark grey. For level two certification (if applicable): Details are the correct color and placed as shown. Scout style details are present, either painted or decals. They should contrast the rest of the helmet. Ear Holes are correctly shaped and have no mesh. Black 3M Speedglas bolts or replicas mount the faceplate to the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). Accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted a contrasting black to the helmet. Accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder." Accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern. Accurate three lines on center of forehead area. No visible seams on the dome. Optional: Black chin cup. Balaclava For 501st approval: A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. Flight Suit For 501st approval: The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately. Stand-up collar which conceals the neck and with enclosing strap to keep the collar closed. Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund, rectangle in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stop slightly higher than the bottom edge of the troopers backside. Suede or faux suede thigh patches must be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 2" (50mm) black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch. See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below. Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets). For level two certification (if applicable): Suit is fairly fitted and not baggy. Real black suede square/ rectangular butt patch attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund will sit . The size will adjust slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale must be noted, no external visible stitching. Size will differ slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale is maintained. Shoulder Armor For 501st approval: Black Elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. They do not have any adornment. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around bicep with a 1.5" (40mm) black elastic strap. Bottom corners are rounded. Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops. Upper Arm Armor For 501st approval: Armor has a recessed area with a contrasting black "t-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. For level two certification (if applicable): Accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to armor. T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm. Armor is secured around the arm with a 1.5" (40mm) black elastic strap. Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around the arm with a 1" (25mm) black elastic strap. Gloves For 501st approval: Black leather and gauntlet length. Detailed gloves include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps. For level two certification (if applicable): Real black suede leather padding on fingers and inside of thumb and correct gauntlet stitching. Vest For 501st approval: Made out of black fabric. Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund. The sleeves are just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor. Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit. Secured at the back using 2" (50mm) black hook and loop fastener. Vest should be made of same or similar fabric to the cummerbund. For level two certification (if applicable): The vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund. Made using the Vest tutorial. Chest Armor For 501st approval: There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that may be painted flat black or left unfinished. The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a loop of black fabric. The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with black webbing or elastic. For level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of black fabric. Nylon webbing is inaccurate. ]Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 1.5"(40mm) black webbing or elastic strap. Back Armor For 501st approval: The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used ROTJ Biker Scout armor. Top detail piece is painted matte black. The tank has contrasting black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 6 stripes. For level two certification (if applicable): Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible. Only 1, 4 or 6 stripes on tank are acceptable. Bullet tank on the back armor has accurate greeblie tank topper detail. Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. Tank topper is secured with single black colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment black rivet. Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable. Cummerbund For 501st approval: Made from black fabric. Closes in back with 2" (50mm) hook and loop fastener. Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist. There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund. Cummerbund should be made of same or similar fabric to the vest. Has a tapered cod section with inverted curve sewn in detail. (Not a chevron) Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a 2" (50mm) black elastic strap. Front of cummerbund has 5-6 equal ribs stitched, centered between the two black fabric pouches. Ribs are of equal width. Ribs are completely visible between the pouches. Cummerbund touches the bottom of the chest armor. Cummerbund slightly overlaps the belt. For level two certification (if applicable): Made from the Cummerbund tutorial page. The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest. There is no visible external edge stitching on the cummerbund, the cod or pouch flaps. Pouches are made from a matte black heavy cotton or canvas like material . Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch. Pouch size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang. Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL and source art. Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area. Optional: Codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the flightsuit. Belt and Detonator For 501st approval: The front and four "boxes" of the belt are made of hard material. Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes (drop boxes) connected to the belt by 1.5" (40mm) textile straps. Each drop box strap is threaded behind a side release buckle centered on the strap. Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular thermal detonator box with short black corrugated hose. Accurate thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the left side of the detonator, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. On the right hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper. See the detonator detail page for a close up image of the greeblies. The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 2"(50mm) black cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single black rivet For level two certification (if applicable): The belt is made from a one-piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended. The straps to attached the drop boxes to the belt are made from 1.5" (40mm) black cotton webbing. Drop boxes hang the correct distance from the belt. Nylon webbing is inaccurate. The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 2" (50mm) black cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single black rivet. Thermal Detonator end caps to be concave and not flat. Optional: Thermal Detonator must have visible black clips attaching it to the web belt. Optional: Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube. Knee Armor For 501st approval: Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. For level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has two elastic straps: The first is 1"(25mm)) wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor. The second is 0.5" (12mm) wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor Rivets are in black color Boots For 501st approval: Black marine vinyl or leather which is not too glossy in appearance. If leather is used, it should have a similar appearance and sheen to marine vinyl. The soles of the boots are black. A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25mm) black hook and loop fastener. The calf of the boot rises to just slightly beneath the knee armor. Slightly textured vinyl is acceptable. For level two certification (if applicable): The boots have slots cut into the heels and sole. The boot sole is a single black color with no visible stitching. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Boots made using the "boot tutorial" (available on BSN.net) are the only boots accepted. Leather boots similar in appearance to marine vinyl Scout boots are acceptable. Holster For 501st approval: Attached to the outside right side of the right boot with black rivets. The blaster pistol fits into the holster For level two certification (if applicable): No Straps are permitted. Attached with four black colored rivets. There is no rank striping visible. Optional Accessories: Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. For level two certification (if applicable): Prohibited for an accurate style costume E-11 Blaster For 501st approval: Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter, based off of a Hengstler counter, should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle For 501st approval: Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DLT-19 heavy blaster rifle is much more powerful with a much greater range than the E-11 blaster. Because of its powerful, long range capabilities, this rifle is commonly used on Imperial controlled planets with large, clear, open areas. Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): T-tracks present on the barrel. Ejection port cover added. small disk on left side. Hold-out Blaster For 501st approval: Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. No decals representing cross hairs or similar. No drilled barrels. The screen used blasters did not have drilled barrels. Kenner toy blasters, modified Kenner toy blasters or resin recasts of Kenner toy blasters are not acceptable due to the fact they are approximately 10% larger in scale than an accurate style blaster

Ok, here is my updated proposal on the CRL. I have read through the discussion, and having given time and cosnideration, would propose the following changes. Removals in red strikethrough changes edits in cyan Please comment on this proposal. Imperial Army Officer CRL Proposal V 1.1 Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. All paint sheen is to be matte, satin or semi gloss. Color is grey. Helmet Open face helmet consisting of a dome (with rim) and helmet skirt. Helmet is based on the shell of the Snowtrooper/Snow Cmdr. and the AT-ST Driver. The helmet is painted a Gray color. A "Rangefinder" is attached to the helmet dome. This is centered to the right side of the dome and aligned to the rim. The rangefinder consists of : Rectangular box about h/l/d 1.85" (47mm), 1.65" (42mm), 0.4" (10.16mm) with a slight bevel and details on. The box is the same color as the helmet. 1 screw cap or cylindrical knob approx. 0.4" (10.16mm) in diameter in the upper left corner. 2 cylindrical pins lined up in the lower left corner of the box. 1 cylindrical pin in the upper right corner of the box. 1 Rangefinder main detail (originally created from a Revell V8 carburetor, but not to be confused with the "Han Solo blaster" piece), aligned at the lower right corner of the box. Ring shaped antenna on top of the box with about 1.5" (38.1mm) in diameter and 0.35" (9mm) depth being cut at the top. There are 5 flat rectangular clips, positioned equally around the helmet where the dome meets the skirt. (1 in the center, 2 on each side). Imperial Code Disks are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt. There are 6 screw cover greeblies may be positioned equally around the bottom of the helmet skirt (3 on each side). A black trim is covering covers the edge of the helmet skirt and forehead of the dome. Black chin strap (without a chin cup). Silver/metallic cylindrical 'Spine shaped Greeblie' bar in the rear center of the helmet skirt. The bar is divided into 11 segments with the thicker 6 segments ideally fitting into the 6 depressions of the rear helmet skirt. Com-link microphone attached to the RH inner side of the helmet, in a curved shape, with a small conical end, painted in black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Com-link Microphone is not attached directly to the helmet. It is a separately worn Headset. See : "Optional Accessories" below. Goggles Black trimmed military style goggles, with a Light Gray, Tan or Black strap. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Goggles are angular, and not rounded in shape. Strap is black, and approx 5/8' (1.5 CM) width, with a small buckle on both sides. Tan Imperial Army Jumpsuit One piece tan coverall / jumpsuit / flightsuit with a hidden front zipper and standing collar. The standing collar has square corners. The collar stands between 1.25" -2" (32mm to 50mm) in proportion to the wearer. Collar closes snugly and includes a modesty panel behind closure. Chest pockets may be present if completely hidden by armor. 2 large cargo pockets sit on the outside of the legs from around mid-thigh and not extending past top of the knee, with a rectangular or chevron flap covering the top. Sleeves are bare without pockets or patches No pockets on, or below the knees. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Jumpsuit chest has a left panel that extends from the side seam to 3" past the center point. The panel rises to above the bottom of the chest armor. The panel closes with a loop and button closure at the bottom about 2" above the waist. Gauntlet Gloves Black, leather or leather-like, enclosed fingered, non-textured fitted gauntlet style. No buckles, straps, or decorative stitching. Three straight lines, on the back of the hand, are an option OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back of hand is smooth without any decorative stitching whatsoever. Chest Armor Note : All references of Right & Left are from the wearers point-of-view. Chest Armor is painted to match the Helmet. Chest armor is based on the ATAT Commanders' armor. There are (2) red square greeblies on the right of the center depression. There are (2) white squares on the left side. There are two buttons at the bottom of the center depression. Blue on the right, and red or dark grey on the wearer's left. There are various designs within the center depression. May be accomplished with decals. Right side of the chest plate may have a silver greeblie. Three knobs on the left side, just next-to the center depression: Red, Blue & White. Raised lines on left side are painted black. The front and back armor are connected by tan webbing passing beneath the shoulder bridges. For basic approval snowtrooper style ribbed shoulder bridges connect the back and chest armors. Straps are painted to match the helmet and armor. Three small screw cover greeblies, in a triangular formation, at the front of each strap. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Smooth Shoulder bridges connect the Back and Chest Armor. Three small screw cover greeblies, in a triangular formation, at the front of each strap. Grey webbing, approx 1" (25,,) in width, passing under the arm to connect the Chest and Back Armor. A silver snap may be present on the webbing, approx 1" from the Back Armor.. Back Armor Snow Commander style back armor, painted to match the Helmet. Circuit Board detail plate on rear of Back Armor, with custom back decals and greeblies. Three buttons in the top right corner : Red, White & Red. Two red buttons on the left side, just above half way. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Black rubber trim, in the neck-line of the Back Armor. Rank Buttons Worn on the top left section of the chest. Rank consists of colored plastic tiles, mounted directly onto the chest armor (no metal bar). May be the rank of Commander (3 Red/3 Blue), or General (4 Red/4 Blue) Tile dimensions are, H 1/2" (12.7mm). W 3/4" (19mm). D 1/8" (3.2mm). Each tile spaced approx 3mm apart. Rank tiles are translucent. Color, quantity & combinations are determined by rank. Belt The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or a leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) from the buckle. The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the wearer. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5/8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1/8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with an Imperial Code Disk at the center. Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Snap is worn to the left of the wearer. Buckle has a slight horizontal curve. Boots Calf high black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional. Jackboot buckles should not be shiny/can be painted dingy grey or gun-metal color. Hobnails may be present on the front of the jackboots. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. German "jack boot" style boots are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather. Original German jack boots (or Knobelbechers) or an authentic replication thereof. Boots have the top adjustment strap. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Communications Headset Silver and black headset with microphone. E-11 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. E-11 Holster

Other than the hoses being attached to the tank it sure is mostly the same as our current Rocket Trooper development. The Rocket trooper developed here has a white TIE box . Faceplate is different too.

Final proposal version Required Costume Components Special Notes: The armor parts shall be accurate or close approximation in semi-gloss black, satin or matte green. Weathering is not acceptable. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet For 501st approval: Scout style helmet accurate in shape and form. Eye Lens is dark green. Helmet is painted to match armor. Flat or concave elevator bolts. Elevator bolts are blue-grey. Helmet has scout detailing in black. Snout is grey with black details. For level two certification (if applicable): Details are the correct color and placed as shown. Scout style details are present, either painted or decals. Ear Holes are correctly shaped and have no mesh. Blue-grey 3M Speedglas bolts or replicas mount the faceplate to the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 7/8" 22mm). Accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted grey with black details. Accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder." Accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern. Accurate three lines on center of forehead area. No visible seams on the dome. Black chin cup on black elastic strap. Balaclava For 501st approval: A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. Flight Suit For 501st approval: The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately. Stand-up collar which conceals the neck and with enclosing strap to keep the collar closed. Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund, rectangle in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stop slightly higher than the bottom edge of the troopers backside. Suede or faux suede thigh patches must be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 2" (50mm) black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch. See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below. Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets). For level two certification (if applicable): Suit is fairly fitted and not baggy. Real black suede square/ rectangular butt patch attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund will sit . The size will adjust slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale must be noted, no external visible stitching. Size will differ slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale is maintained. Shoulder Armor For 501st approval: Black Elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. They do not have any adornment. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around bicep with a 0.5" (12mm) black elastic strap. Bottom corners are rounded. Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops. Upper Arm Armor For 501st approval: Armor has a recessed area with a black "t-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. For level two certification (if applicable): Accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to armor. T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm. Armor is secured around the arm with a 1.5" (40mm) black elastic strap. Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around the arm with a 1" (25mm) black elastic strap. Gloves For 501st approval: Black leather and gauntlet length. Detailed gloves include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps. For level two certification (if applicable): Real black suede leather padding on fingers and inside of thumb and correct gauntlet stitching. Vest For 501st approval: Made out of black fabric. Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund. The sleeves are just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor. Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit. Secured at the back using 2" (50mm) black hook and loop fastener. Vest should be made of same or similar fabric to the cummerbund. For level two certification (if applicable): The vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund. Made using the Vest tutorial . Chest Armor For 501st approval: There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that must be painted black. The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a loop of green fabric. The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with black webbing or elastic. For level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of green fabric. Nylon webbing is inaccurate. Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 1.5"(40mm) black webbing or elastic strap. Back Armor For 501st approval: The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used ROTJ Biker Scout armor. Top detail piece is painted matte black. The tank has black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 6 stripes. For level two certification (if applicable): Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible. Only 1, 4 or 6 stripes on tank are acceptable. Bullet tank on the back armor has accurate greeblie tank topper detail. Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. Tank topper is secured with single black colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment green rivet. Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable. Cummerbund For 501st approval: Made from dark green fabric. Closes in back with 2" (50mm) hook and loop fastener. Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist. There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund. Cummerbund should be made of same or similar fabric to the vest. Has a tapered cod section with inverted curve sewn in detail. (Not a chevron) Cod section is made from the same material as the cummerbund and is a grey color that matches the helmet snout. Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a 2" (50mm) black elastic strap. Front of cummerbund has 5-6 equal ribs stitched, centered between the dark green fabric pouches. Ribs are of equal width. Ribs are completely visible between the pouches. Cummerbund touches the bottom of the chest armor. Cummerbund slightly overlaps the belt. For level two certification (if applicable): Made from the Cummerbund tutorial page. The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest. There is no visible external edge stitching on the cummerbund, the cod or pouch flaps. Pouches are made from a dark green heavy cotton or canvas like material . Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch. Pouch size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang. Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL and source art. Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area. Optional: Codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the flightsuit. Belt and Detonator For 501st approval: The front and four "boxes" of the belt are made of hard material. The belt is 2" (50mm) dark green cotton or nylon webbing secured to each end of the hard belt with a single green rivet. It fastens in the back with a side release buckle or velcro, under the Thermal Detonator. Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes (drop boxes) connected to the belt by 1.5" (40mm) dark green textile straps. Each drop box strap is threaded behind a side release buckle centered on the strap. Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular thermal detonator box with short black corrugated hose. Accurate thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the left side of the detonator, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. On the right hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper. See the detonator detail page for a close up image of the greeblies. The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, covering the side release buckle or velcro to fasten belt, hidden under the box out of sight. For level two certification (if applicable): The belt is made from a one-piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended. The straps to attached the drop boxes to the belt are made from 1.5" (40mm) dark green cotton webbing. Drop boxes hang the correct distance from the belt. Nylon webbing is inaccurate. Thermal Detonator end caps to be concave and not flat. Optional: Thermal Detonator must have visible black clips attaching it to the web belt. Optional: Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube. Knee Armor For 501st approval: Knees are painted grey to match the helmet snout. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. For level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has two elastic straps: The first is 1"(25mm)) wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor. The second is 0.5" (12mm) wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor Rivets are in green color. Boots For 501st approval: Green marine vinyl or leather which is not too glossy in appearance. If leather is used, it may be slightly textured to match the appearance of marine vinyl. The soles of the boots are black. A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25mm) black hook and loop fastener. The calf of the boot rises to just slightly beneath the knee armor. Slightly textured vinyl is acceptable. For level two certification (if applicable): The boots have slots cut into the heels and sole. The boot sole is a single black color with no visible stitching. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Boots made using the "boot tutorial" (available on BSN.net) are the only boots accepted. Green Leather boots are acceptable if the leather is not too glossy and the appearance is similar to marine vinyl. Holster For 501st approval: Attached to the outside right side of the right boot with black rivets. The blaster pistol fits into the holster For level two certification (if applicable): No Straps are permitted. Attached with four green rivets. There is no rank striping visible. Optional Accessories: Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. For level two certification (if applicable): Prohibited for an accurate style costume Existing image E-11 Blaster For 501st approval: Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter, based off of a Hengstler counter, should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle For 501st approval: Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DLT-19 heavy blaster rifle is much more powerful with a much greater range than the E-11 blaster. Because of its powerful, long range capabilities, this rifle is commonly used on Imperial controlled planets with large, clear, open areas. Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): T-tracks present on the barrel. Ejection port cover added. small disk on left side. Existing image Hold-out Blaster For 501st approval: Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. No decals representing cross hairs or similar. No drilled barrels. The screen used blasters did not have drilled barrels. Kenner toy blasters, modified Kenner toy blasters or resin recasts of Kenner toy blasters are not acceptable due to the fact they are approximately 10% larger in scale than an accurate style blaster.

Templar always gives us the peace sign Churcill always gave us Victory. Ive you the Legions second Sapper!

Approved today. thats TWO Sappers

Im ok with the word moderate to, which is compleley open to interpretation. I can fix it back. In all the photos I see both in the visdic images and behind the scenes i dont see big clumps of mud, mostly staining.

David Ill CCP the updated text here. Also I will make the changes to the measurements. this will be version 1.1. HELMET PROPOSAL 1.1  HELMET · An open-faced, flared helmet which consists of a dome with rim and helmet skirt. · A telemetry unit is attached to the right side of the dome and is aligned with the rim. · The telemetry unit consists of a rectangle box with detailing that should match the reference image. The telemetry unit is black. · The lower end of the telemetry unit sits out from the helmet to allow the goggle elastic to feed underneath. · A rubber trim, or the illusion of a rubber trim covers the edge of the helmet rim with the join made at the rear center of the helmet. · Metal/silver Imperial code disks are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt. These may be weathered. · The helmet is to be painted in matte olive green to match the armor. The helmet paint finish may be textured, and is moderately weathered. · Helmet has a black chin cup with tan webbing strap. Tan webbing should be lightly weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · The helmet has a black/dark gray polystyrene inner liner consistent with that of a skate or bike helmet. · The telemetry unit may feature a tied length of elastic bungee cord, approx. 4-5mm in diameter, looped around the outer upper section. · Disks do not feature a notch or groove details. · Green color is similar to Pantone350U Leaving this here for now for discussion. We will take things one section

AND.HERE.WE.GO.

i just had a Visitor Fleet costume commissioned and built and to get my shoulders in I hd to get a big suit. Well, too big. My seamstress did her best and took the middle of the suit apart, raused the crotch acbout 3 inches, took the arms and legs in, made it smaller and fit better. So much more comfortable, but it was a fair amount of work.

Thats a good point Darren. All of these costumes are very heavily weathered. And while Pantones are supposed to match, in practice they do not when you get paint at a hardware store, etc. and lighting changes everything.

In this pic i had just got it together. The clips are black now and I cut1" slots in the end caps which are floor sliders. Drill 4 holes in a rectangle and use a heavy duty box cutter to open the holes and back with sheet plastic. The bottom charge is the same pipe and Christmas tree balls from HL. Grind the hanging tabs off, grind the hemispheres to shape and back with plastic for the depression. Easy!

I was able to rivet heavy cotton on.the back and made a big belt loop. Ugly functional.

I'm in a hotel for the weekend and I have really cruddy service so I will post it when I get home

ALRIGHT! SO! Major update time. I have looked over Neals first pack that he received from Crookknight, and following that , I completely tore my pack apart, cut the boxes almost in half, completely rebuilt my explosives and got a scope bag for the side pouch. I kept the original straps that I made since they are supposed to the L2 style with the ajustment straps built on top of the actual strap. Here is what it looks like tonight. Ill permanently mount the shovel tomorrow and touchup paint as needed. This is a framelss slab of 6mm sintra for the back plate and the boxes are made out of 3mm black sintra.