Blackwatch

bumping this for visibility.

Ok, i see what you mean. That is a standardized, across the board preformatted text that is used on all CRLs. There are hundreds of CRLs so the first part of the text remains the same for all. As a template and you add the components you need for the CRL. Its impractical to change it for each. Only the LMO approved parts of the uniform shown are what is approved for use. Follow the highlighted link I posted. It will take you to the page on Blousing.

OK--Brown trim, I thought that was odd but kept rolling with it. Ill also update the cog verbiage. Is it a 3" cog? @IcyTrooper @14166 updates made please look it over

@pm07 Shane is there an update?

-----------------------------UPDATED MAY 2020------------------------------------------------ Troopers Looking at the source art, the boots are short. while we do consider the Commuter 2 boot to be preferred due to its very low height of not more than 9" while retaining the look of a simple boot , not everyone can find them . Jackboots will not be approved for use for the Sapper . If you have taller boots tuck the legs in to give the appearance of short boots. OR buy cheap round two engineer boots and cut the shaft down to 8-9 inches. OR Buy the commuter II style boot which meets the intent of the new, unpublished CRL. as well as the existing CRL. UNTIL THE NEW CRL GOES INTO EFFECT, THE CURRENT CRL WILL REMAIN VALID. Boots "Commuter" style boot 8-9" (20-23cm) in height. Calf high boots such as "jackboots" or "kersey" style are not acceptable. Black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles or any other embellishments. Normal leather grain/texture/lines are acceptable. Tread on the soles and heels is acceptable Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If not covered by leather or vinyl, zippers are painted black.

-----------------------------UPDATED MAY 2020------------------------------------------------ Troopers Looking at the source art, the boots are short. while we do consider the Commuter 2 boot to be preferred due to its very low height of not more than 9" while retaining the look of a simple boot , not everyone can find them . You can use regular old Jackboots at this time, per the CRL for Level 1 approval. If you have tall boots, ___EDITED______ If you have taller boots tuck the legs in to give the appearance of short boots. OR buy cheap round two engineer boots and cut the shaft down to 8-9 inches. OR Buy the commuter II style boot which meets the intent of the new, unpublished CRL. UNTIL THE NEW CRL GOES INTO EFFECT, THE CURRENT CRL WILL REMAIN VALID.

that is outdated information. There is no armor for this. heres the approved CRL. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_imperial_army_trooper Did you see armor in the initial discussion from last year? Its likely there, there is no armor in the comics we used for the CRL. On your boots they are extremely tall, like the kind preferred for Mutroopers that come to the knee. You will need to Blouse them down some to no more than Jackboot height per the crl. Shane took his pics with jacks because he had not found shorter boots at the time, the comics show shorter so you can blouse them below the height of a jackboot if you prefer. I have to do this with my tall boots for my Rebel uniforms.

the rifle looks fantastsic

OK I think I got it all in there this time. My eyes are bleary! Plesae look it over, check for edits, check for mistakes, make sure all the dimensions match up.

OK then, that said, for the purposes of the LMO looking over the CRL, lets not look at the rocket launcher for now. Let me go fix the half of the CRL that's missing in my post.

CARP! half of my post is missing! argh!! Ok let me go fix it. WTH

Rocket Trooper Helmet Tears have 5 vertical black lines. Lenses may be flat or bubble, smoke or green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The "ear" bars have three or four bumps, and is grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (Highlighted) in black is optional. Frown is painted black and overlaps the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Tube stripes are medium blue and can be between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Rubber black trim runs the length of the brow from the left to right front helmet traps. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted grey. Area around the vocoder is painted black, matching the reference photos. Tears, traps, and tube stripes should be decals, but can be hand painted, or decals that replicate hand painted. Traps/tears may be either ANH gray or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray. A mohawk runs across the top of the helmet from the brow to just before the curve at the rear bottom of the helmet. Width of the mohawk is approximately 1.5" (38mm) and tapers slightly towards the base. At the front of the mohawk is a widows peak approximately 1/2" (12mm) and matches reference photos. The bottom of the widows peak overlaps a portion of the brow trim. A solid orange line approximately 3/8" (10mm) in width runs the length of the mohawk matching the reference photo. The line terminates near the rear of the mohawk and is followed by two squares of the same width and color. The color of the line matches the orange used on the left shoulder bell. Grey stripes approximately 1" (25mm) run parallel to the mohawk and end at the base of the rear traps. Two long triangles approximately 2" (50mm) in length protrude from each stripe matching reference photos. A grey rectangle approximately 1.5" (38mm) by .5" (12mm) is painted on the rear of the helmet below the mohawk. Two hoses are attached to the helmet, one on each side of the vocoder in the indentation where the mic tips would be. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears have no visible screws per side. Traps/tears and tube stripes are decals (with the correct ROTJ details), not hand-painted. Traps/tears are a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray. The ends of the frown are rounded, not tapered to points (not like ANH/ESB) and not squared ended like the ESB MKII. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Eye lenses are bubble style and tinted green. Ear bars have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). Neck trim is of an U-type profile rather than a S-type profile. Mesh must be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Hoses Grey ribbed hoses with a 1.25" (30mm) diameter on each end and 15" to 21" (38CM to 51 CM) of length from the helmet hose ports to the upper chest box hose ports. Hose from the 1st to 5th rib from the helmet is white in color. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Black textured material with horizontal ribbing, either one or two pieces with no visible zippers or logos. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. The front of the shoulder straps do not have a wide flat area only small ridges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Only 4 ridges of the shoulder straps overlap the chest plate. Rear of shoulder straps are temporarily secured at the back using velcro or magnets and do not free float. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The right side shoulder bell is white in color. The left side shoulder bell is orange in color with a black Imperial cog painted on the center line. Black imperial cog may be decal or painted for Level 1 approval. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shoulder bells appear to have battle damage. Black imperial cog is hand painted and weathered/ worn in appearance. Upper Arm Armor (biceps) Biceps are fully closed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Bicep armor is lightly scuffed or battle worn. Forearms Forearms are fully closed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Hand Plates These shall be clam shell, or snowtrooper-style hand plates. The hand plates shall be mounted securely over the back of the glove. Gloves Black in color, made of either nylon, kevlar, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. Chest Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Fabric or elastic strip connecting chest to back is either black or not present. Chestbox The chestbox is required to have the same configurations as seen in the photo. The box has five 1" square x 1/8th" (25mm by 3mm) thick detail pieces. Buttons are arranged arranged in two rows. Top row: red, white. Bottom row: red, black, white. Configuration matches the reference photo. There is a 1/8" (3mm)thick black or dark grey pinstripe border around the square detail pieces There are two 3/4" (18 mm )round indicator lights above the rocker switches. One white, one red respectively. There are 3 rocker switches below the round indicator lights. The rockers are always gray, white, gray. The gray rockers have red dots or lamps in their bottom. There is a 1/8" (3mm) thick black pinstripe that runs horizontally across the bottom portion of the box. There is a male silver snap and a silver round disc with cone knob on the lower portion of the box below the horizontal pinstripe. There are two "gear" type greeblies affixed to either end of the lower tube portion of the box. Theses greeblies are silver in color. Any lights or LED's added to the chest box are required to be approved by GML. Back Back plate contains a "O II" design. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back Armor has no overlap, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate Rocket Pack: Styled after the pack as seen in the battlefront II video game. An interpretation of the pack is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged. Comprised of the main pack box, fuel tank at the top of the pack and exhaust ports at the left and right bottom of the pack. Main pack box is rectangular in shape, flat at the top and beveled at the bottom, stopping above the thermal detonator. The backpack fuel tank shall not rise above the bottom of the helmet lower edge. It is mounted to the armor backplate “0 II “ . The main box features a depressed center area inset approximately ½” by 7/16” (12mm by 19mm ) deep divided into five segments. The upper half of the depression features three horizonal lines roughly 1/2" (12mm) thick, and are dirty white or light weathered grey. Three black buttons are located below the horizontal lines, to the right of the depression. Buttons are 1/4" to 5/16" (8-9mm) in diameter. The bottom right side of the center of the pack features a 2" by 2.5" (50mm by 62mm) black rectangle , which has black lines extending horizontally to the left. The pack center box may be lightly weathered. The rockets are mounted to either side of the pack center box, curved at the top and are beveled at the bottom. They are mounted ½” (12mm) below the surface of the pack center box. The bottom of the exhaust ports feature rectangular nozzles, and may extend ½” (12mm) beyond the housings. There are two medium to dark grey rectangles 3/4” by 2” j(19mm by 50mm) just above the exhaust nozzles. The left rocket nozzle has a raised rectangle approximately 2 ½”(62mm) wide by four inches long. This area is weathered per the reference photos. The fuel tanks is barrel shaped and no wider than the backpack. The center barrel section is as wide as the center section of the main backpack box, and is mounted directly on top of it. The ends of the barrel feature flat depressed caps with raised rings inside he flattened ends. 20 grooved depressions are seen near the ends of the tank. The back side of the tank features two vertical oblong depressions 3/8” by 1.5” (10mm by 32mm) long, light orange / amber in color. This is not the same color used on the helmet and shoulderbell. The outermost part of the caps are painted light to medium grey to match references. The fuel tank may be supported by plastic structure as seen in reference material to help hold it stable. Level 2 The backpack is as close to screen accurate as possible. The black rectangle and horizontal lines in the lower bevel of the rocket pack may be made of separate individual plates instead of black lines to represent the separations. Tank end cap layout should match reference photos as closely as possible. The orange/ amber segments on the barrel shaped tank shall be illuminated to match reference images. OK here is the updated CRL *** Comment on the hoses. I just set up four chestboxes and helmets with hoses. the JRS chose this length, but its kind of impractical for trooping. I set all hose lengths to 23 inches to help with moving your head around. It also depends on what you use. Scuba hose is flexible and looks like the hose seen in the CGI art. The medical/dental hose recommended for Mudtroopers also looks like this. Just a thought on the length of the hose. @IcyTrooper and @14166 can you comment? What info do we have on the rocket launcher ? I don't know anything about it, is it approved elsewhere?

@Raider the original post was Tarris so I cannot edit that, but I can CCP the whole thing so we can review it all at once, I only made suggested changes to the construction parts of the armor. Ill also make the change to the orange lights.

love me some sintra. I keep a lot of black 6M on hand and half a sheet of black 3m. Ive stopped even using white Sintra but I see why you would want it for this project. I went through the photos, looks like a straightforward Sintra build. What is your plan for the suit?

I just re-read the topic and looked over the photos. Ignoring the rivets what I see in the IP pics are the thighs, and that may come down to just strapping and padding. Way back when when this was going to be a "clone Garrison" I built clones both overlapped and butt jointed. I found it harder to get the clone to look "closed up" with a butt joint. Ive got a costume that is all sealed up and I have to "swim" into the chest then put the arms on with help. Also the back plate seems long, is that supposed to be long, or is it a trimming situation?

good news! congratulations!~ I love the look of these when they are clean and shiny, Garrison-fresh. Love that color!

guys, just wanted to say that this is exactly the kind and spirit of cooperation we look for. This helps everyone doing a muddy. Thanks guys!

Looking forward to that~

I have a doopy conversion and personally---and this is me-- I like them. Just sand off all the star wars markings before you start. There have been a lot of great tutorials over the years on how to upgrade these blasters. Before Doopy there was a feller in Star Garrison makkng resin parts and I have his stuff on my old E11. Back in yesteryear the Blaster Builders Club had plans and templates to upgrade these, so I used aluminum channel stock and plate to make a working stock. I also took the blaster apart and cut open the charge handle track, then wrapped wire around a dowel to simulate the spring, replaced the charge port with a piece of alumumum flashing, opened up the big rail on the back, drilled open all the holes, replaced all the T tracks, made the stock work, used a peephole viewer up front in the site--it was fun and a lot of work. In the end the Hasbro is a smaller than realistic blaster, and the NEW habro blaster that was sold in Toys R Us wound up being a little more correct, but not much. If you are getting the original blaster that Doopy designed his mod for, just be careful cutting the front tip off so you don't nick the LED wire. Its a simple, drop on conversion and looks a lot better than the blaster toy. I just wish he would cast the thing in black resin instead of tan.

hey troopers just to confirm, when you say light up, do you mean the two vertical orange slots in the back of the tank area? I can alter the verbiage to "fully closed"

ok thats an easy fix

OK yep that confirms it, the trade name in the US is Sintra, same product and ABS will give the same shape as well.

OK, made final edits to the proposal, and notwithstanding a line saying "The EC-17 is approximately XX% larger than the typical ROTJ Scout EC-17". I have taken the previous discussion as well as the suggestions for edit to the Mudtrooper CRL into account writing this. Please review: Val Mudtrooper Final Proposal: Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Context: Solo: A Star Wars Story Description: We first encounter Val in the trenches of Mimban. Wearing the armor of the 224th Imperial Armored Division, or more commonly called “Mudtroopers." She fought alongside Han Solo, with Captain Beckett, Rio, and Korso, but there is more to this unit than meets the eye. HELMET · An open-faced, flared helmet which consists of a dome with rim and helmet skirt. · A telemetry unit is attached to the right side of the dome and is aligned with the rim. · The telemetry unit consists of a rectangle box with detailing that should match the reference image. The telemetry unit is black. · The lower end of the telemetry unit sits out from the helmet to allow the goggle elastic to feed underneath. · A rubber trim, or the illusion of a rubber trim covers the edge of the helmet rim with the join made at the rear center of the helmet. · Metal/silver Imperial code disks are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt. These may be weathered. · The helmet is to be painted in matte field grey to match the armor. The helmet paint finish may be slightly textured, and is moderately weathered. · Helmet has a black chin cup with tan webbing strap. Tan webbing should be lightly weathered.? OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · The helmet has a black/dark gray polystyrene inner liner consistent with that of a skate or bike helmet. · Disks do not feature a notch or groove details. HAIR · Seen underneath the helmet is dark, reddish brown curly hair in the Afro style. · Wigs are acceptable. GOGGLES · Goggles shall have an aged chrome frame with detail painting, and weathering to match reference image. The knurled nose bridge adjuster is brass in appearance. · Goggles shall have a trim around metallic frame. Trim shall be rubber or foam. · Goggles have dark angled lens featuring two flat panels on each side. · Goggle Strap features two sizes of elastic - The thinner elastic strap attaches directly to the goggles and is sewn to the larger strap, which forms the main goggle strap. · The goggle strap features a number of buckles: · There are metallic buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 1" (25mm) elastic is threaded. · A large buckle greeblie on the left hand side through which the 1.5" (40mm) elastic is threaded. This greeblie features a beige square. · Two black plastic tri-glides on the right rear through which the 1.5" (40mm) elastic is threaded. · Goggles may be worn over the eyes or on the brim of the helmet OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Serrated 1" (25 mm) slide buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 1" (25mm) elastic is threaded. · Goggle straps are approximately 1" ( 25mm) and 1.5" ( 40mm). SCARF · A apple-red color scarf is worn loosely around the neck. Smooth in texture, matte surface. PONCHO · Plash Palatka Style Poncho. · Poncho is dyed or painted black. · Tied or otherwise attached under the chest armor and worn to cover the back plate. · Poncho shall be heavily weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Ring Grommets shall be leather to match reference photo or metal grommets shall be covered with leather to mimic leather grommets. TUNIC / JACKET · A long-sleeved, dark charcoal grey, jacket that falls between upper and mid-thigh. · It is of a darker shade compared to the regular Mudtrooper jacket · Has a high mandarin style collar with an open space in front. · Has two panels on either side of the front, extending to the bottom of the jacket. · Has a stitched "cuff" on the sleeve that extends to around the middle of the forearm. Look may be created with top stitching. · If side pockets are present, they are built into the jacket, with no covering flaps present. · No outer stitched pockets are acceptable unless they are fully covered by the armor. · Shall be moderately to heavily weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Jacket is made of heavy weight bull denim Twill material. · There is an imperial cog patch sewn on each shoulder and are made of an embossed 3D vinyl material. · There are code cylinder pockets on both outside panels of the jacket from about half way between the top and bottom of the seam where the arm connects to the body. CHEST ARMOR · Chest Armor matches visual references. · Accurate shape/design to front of chest. · There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. · Buckles attach to upper chest plate. · Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. · To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. · Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. · On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. · Chest and straps shall be painted matte field grey and be moderately weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): BACK ARMOR · Back Plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. · Chest and back plate meet at the sides. · Black foam extends from the arm openings. · 2 hose connectors located at the top of the back plate approximately centered above each rectangular cut out/greeblie. · Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside. · The walls and floor the recesses shall be matte field grey. · Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside. · Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. The floor of the cut out and the walls inside match the matte field grey color of the armor. · Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. · There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recess. · There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. · There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. · Shoulder straps are matte field grey with moderate weathering and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. · Back plate is painted matte field grey with moderate weathering.?? OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Black fabric or leather loop drop down from the bottom of the back plate through which belts must pass through. SHOULDER ARMOR · Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. · The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. · Shoulders should have a longer flat edge that covers top of bicep with a shorter flat edge that connects to chest armor · Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. · Shoulders are painted matte field grey with moderate weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): BICEPS · Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. · Left bicep is matte field grey with moderate weathering. · Right bicep armor is painted red with three yellow squares on the cover strip, with moderate weathering. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Each bicep may feature a slanted fishook detail that is inset into the bicep top facing outward. · Right bicep color is similar to Toyota Red 3E5. · Yellow color is similar to Montana Yellow Cab. GLOVES · Black gloves with black leather or leather-like material on the palm, thumb, and forefinger · The black oval detail is aligned with the index finger of each hand. · Gloves extend underneath the forearm armor. EC-17 BLASTER · A modified EC-17 is worn around the neck, over the armor · EC-17 is modified with a conical muzzle and features a silver or chrome finish on the spine ridge and cartridge at the rear. The rest of the pistol is black · It hangs around the neck via 1/4" (6mm ) thick red paracord. Tied around the back end of the pistol and attached to the front via a D-ring and latch from the Yugo back pack. BELT · The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or a leather-like material. · Approximately 2" (50 mm) in width, up to 3" (76mm ) is acceptable. · There are no loops on the belt. · A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25 mm) from the buckle. · The belt may be worn with the snap to the right or left of the wearer. · The buckle is a standard officer buckle painted with matte field grey paint and is moderately weathered. · Buckle is adorned with an Imperial Code Disk at the center. · Please refer to the Imperial Buckle reference page for information on accurate and inaccurate style buckles. · Suspended from the belt on the right side, via 1” (25mm) leather loops with snaps, are two grenades as shown. · On the left side of the belt are 3 silver-colored EC-17 cartridges, suspended via leather holder as shown · Also on the left are the two ends of a 3/8" (10mm) red climbing rope, tied in a knot as shown. Middle section of the rope is looped at the back PANTS · Black pants with double reinforced thighs. · They do not have visible pockets or other adornment on the legs. · Shall be moderately to heavily weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Pants are made using heavy cotton BOOTS · Jackboot or kersey boot style, knee high smooth black leather or leather like material. · Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. · Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. · Boots shall be tall enough to fit both shin straps. · Boots shall be heavily weathered. · Boots should form fit to the calf and not be loose. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Boots do not have a zipper. · Boots are made of leather.

Reading through the tutorial I see you are using Phorex. I googled it and cannot come up with the same item here in the US but by using a hair dryer to form it it appears to be sintra , a foamed PVC sheet which holds its shape once formed. Scraps can be had at sign making shops.