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nanotek

Detachment Web Master[CMD-DWM]
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Everything posted by nanotek

  1. There are a few files available, the accuracy varies as no-one has made a fully accurate helmet yet. You can search on the Facebook build groups or Etsy. Basically you will have to compare the files available to the reference materials that are available here and make a decision about which one you like best
  2. I'm not sure what is going on as the quality of the pics is pretty poor. Yep the pouch should be more to the right, but I cannot see the TD plate properly. There is supposed to be a recessed inverted V section visible on the back just about the TD. It looks like this part is obscured. I suspect the ab will not be visible either, which it should be but you cannot tell because of the specialist rig over the top.
  3. Thanks for leaving this here. I already downloaded the whole lot. They will make very useful referent material! Thanks!
  4. Thanks for leaving this here. I already downloaded the whole lot. They will make very useful referent material! Thanks!
  5. Cold wash on delicate setting. Turn under suit inside out, or put in laundry bags. Also may help to use a wool or delicate detergent
  6. Hi there, sorry I had to rush this because zero time, this means I may also be repeating what others have already said. Apologies for this! First of all, it should be acknowledged that this is a very difficult build and you have put in a great deal of work. It's look great however there are a few things that I feel require some attention to get you across the line. 1. Aircraft Buckle Should be black - D Ring is weathered aluminium 2. Shoulder bells need to be swapped 3. Belt should not overlap circle detail on the ab armor 4. Pouch needs to come towards buckle (all pouches, boxes and holster are spaced quite evenly around the belt) 5. Rubber bands should be closer together and don’t overlap, but rather are embedded into the ladder. There is a channel that runs through the ladder to allow this. Aluminium wrist rockets should be weathered too 6. Cod is hanging too low, should be tucked under belt 7. Inner thigh section should have visible ribs 8. Boot covers need to be secured down better 9. D-Ring and strap should be facing more forward, not straight down as shown 10. Leather pouch should have no visible stitching. Also there appears to be some webbing showing just to the left of the pouch? 11. Outer thigh section should have visible ribs 12. TD is mounted incorrectly to the TD plate, should be higher so that the TD plate can come down and we should be able to see the ^ pattern 13. Holster is incorrect and the blaster is strapped incorrectly. The right holster will set you straight! Again keep up the great work, you're almost there! Sing out if you need any further assistance.
  7. Nice work Glenn. Looks great! The image issue is related to how long an image takes to load. I find that if I refresh the page it loads all the images on the 2nd try. I have tried tweaking some settings but it seems to persist. I’ll try again.
  8. Welcome, looking forward to your build. I know it was just a quick fitting but remember to lower the biceps a bit as they are not supposed to sit up that high. If you have any questions please shout out! Will be following your journey
  9. You're most welcome! For the rubber bands, my first question is: are the forearms fixed? Mine have a split opening so it can stretch open to get my hands through. I find that this creates the same issue. If the opening closes the bands become loose. If I fix them to the armor then I won't be able to get my hand through! To combat this I am thinking of using a small plastic strip to wedge in underneath both straps. I'll post what I mean at some point. I have to totally redo my undersuit as the one I bought from ArmoryShop is getting too worn out after 50+ troops. It was lovely of your mother to make your undersuit! She did a wonderful job
  10. Looks great. The canvas pouches are hard to get right. I have find by attaching them direct to the belt, I can get better placement. attaching via a belt loop doesn't work so great. Your leather pouch needs to come around the front more, it shouldn't be sitting near the kidney box. Again secure it to the belt will fix it. Kind of same for the holster as well. They should be evenly spaced around the belt (if that makes sense) The rubber rings on the left forearm also look loose. I think these are the most annoying in terms of getting them right. The undersuit/gaskets is something I want to work on next personally as I don't think anyone has got this right yet and requires a lot more research. Specialist applications won't be taken until we have the L2 requirements mapped out in the forthcoming CRL update (currently being rewritten)
  11. Welcome aboard and thank you for sharing your journey. The CRL is under development and won't be live until some time after the release of the film, so approval won't be likely until early next year. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to reach out. Good luck with your build I have also moved this to the appropriate area of the forum Also as a starting point you can check to see what requirements have been drafted so far here https://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/6791-sithtrooper-draft-crl-checklist/
  12. Hey dude, the armor looks great! The only thing you need to bear in mind with weathering is that it needs to be consistent across all parts of the kit. I couldn't see any shots of the lower regions so cannot comment, other than keep up the good work
  13. you can get a great pair from Imperial Boots which includes the covers.
  14. Here is what I posted originally: Green = Gloss Black Yellow = Dark grey TS-48 Gunship grey possibly?!) except for the tubes which are flat black or rubber like (TS-82 Rubber black) Red = Metallic Black (Tamiya TS-40) Blue = Aluminium (Tamiya TS-17) weathered with flat black
  15. Please do not forget the Tamiya TS-40 Metallic Black! That is the most important one!
  16. I assume you could search for a stainless steel mesh on AliExpress and find suitable one? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32973627630.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4b92129bW37cuE&algo_pvid=7b0102c5-60d1-494f-8870-37379d8f9e29&algo_expid=7b0102c5-60d1-494f-8870-37379d8f9e29-4&btsid=09446bcb-e413-4ba1-ad7e-be70a40ab66d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_55 The 20 mesh looks about right? @Chaos @WARMACHINE both have Jimi kits, they might be able to help? As for the dark grey, you can try a matte black (which will appear dark grey next to gloss black - Tamiya TS-6) TS-48 Gunship Grey - is a nice dark grey too. I have not tried to do an exact colour match yet but you will get the idea
  17. Hi there, the colour scheme you have there is almost correct. The majority of the helmet is gloss black. The red parts are metallic black (Tamiya TS-40). The two tubes flat black or rubber like. The band on the brow should be a very dark grey similar to the traps at the side and back as well as the tears. There are two options for the vents, you can either paint them matte black and weather with an aluminium paint, or paint aluminium and weather with black. I prefer the latter. If you want to get a great finish you are going to have to be super patient. Yes you will have to use primer/filler and you will need to remove all pinholes. You will need lots of sandpaper start with 400 and work your way to 1500/2000. Wet sanding is required. I hope this helps
  18. Also please use this as your starting point as it is an index of all the components
  19. I have been doing so where the reference has been great. Yes big thanks to @gmrhodes13 for gathering all the info. I'll be trying to move the posts into the correct places as well. Thanks @Raider for reminding me to do this!
  20. @Spiel will be able to help you out with your DT armour
  21. If you are looking for accuracy, an ABS kit doesn’t compare to 3D printed or some of the fibreglass kits available. The details of ABS are not sharp enough to match the onscreen costumes and to get that sharpness will require a lot of work.
  22. It is entirely possible that there might be slight differences in shades of red between different sections. It could also be lighting. It could also be unintentional due to manufacturing process. We have seen countless arguments about colour variations (notably Vader and Death Trooper) and we might just consider for Level 1 purposes that the entire look and feel of the costume is a gloss red. The only variation I can see in the pics is the abdomen is a slightly more orange-red. I cannot see the variation in the arms. And again it could be lighting sources. I'm open to the possibility, is anyone else?
  23. Yeah that's going to be quite a difficult task as I am unsure if the PU was cast in red, or painted after the fact
  24. I think ArmoryShop have a chest rig for purchase. There is also a tutorial done by @Chaos that is pretty good if you want to DIY
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