Blackwatch

I wish I could see the pics, they are flashing like they are trying to load up. Congratulations on approval !!!

Tim I hope you get it all sorted out, and want to see you back in mud gear

man that is rough. I am truly sorry to hear that. There is a guy selling his ICAT gear which is mud gear, on the ICAT builders group on FB. You can contact him there. I know all about lost gear- one of my mechanics had a 3 part toolbox that clipped togethe. UPS slapped the label on the top of the box, took the three parts apart (total weight was over 400 pounds of tools) and delivered the part that had the label on it, losing several thousand dollars of tools in the process. No label, no claim, and according to the label, it was ONE box, not three. For the record, i despise UPS. I have built models for customers, double boxed them, added fragile stickers, and the model boxes arrived at the costumer with boot toe holes in the box. I was told the employees punt anything with fragile on it. I refuse to use them anymore.

man this thing looks cool!

if you can eliminate the slit on the side it is my opinion that they would be acceptable. Like I said I would get a big piece of vinyl and cover that entire panel with it. **THAT SAID** approval for basic will ALWAYS come down to your local GML, so before you go that route you need to have a discussion with him or her. We do not do basic approval, only the GML can do that.

cool, so with the zipper you shouldnt have any problems actually getting the boot on. I have HUGE feet and the zipper really helps me get in my boots.

Hm, well Ok. it has the zipper on the inner side of the boot, correct? I would personally proceed with trying to cover the entire panel with vinyl, or hit the thrift shops and find a pair of reglar tall black boots you can cut down to the same appearance.

How you wish to proceed on the goggles is up to you as long as they meet basic approval requirements. If you want to go Specialist, which I highly recommend that you do, you will need to meet the CRL requirements in blue text.

it would be awesome if the manufacturer can make the boots without the slit. I have to guess that it is decorative, unles its some sort of expansion. Personally I would lean towards covering the entire panel with black vinyl and gluing it all down. We do it for scouts, ive done something similar for tusken raiders, it would just be a mattter of covering that entire panel so you dont see a seam anywhere. I wear the fur lined boots, not not that bad in the summer, but I work in the heat so I guess Im used to it.

Hello Krysztof welcome to the Army part of the forums. You have a good start here! Originally we allowed standard Jackboots, however there was an internal push for more accuracy, hence the shorter, more correct boots. Here is the link to the art used for the CRL creation process. You may be able to blouse the legs of the coveralls down for basic approval, the way Rebel Fleet Troopers blouse their boots down over the top of their jackboots. In the end the appearance of the boot should be no more than 23CM visible. Im liking what I see, so far; is there a way to get rid of the button below the collar? That is not present in the comic art or the CRL. Otherwise, once you have the correct boots and gloves ( I painted my French Army gloves green) you will be very close to approval!

my only concern is the slice on the outside of the boot, which is not seen on the actual "commuter" boot. I have been advocating getting a cheap pair of worn , similar boots from a thrift store and cutting them down to the correct 8-9" height. I know the commuter (or stadium boot) style may be harder to source internationally. While your GML may pass this boot for initial approval, it wouldn't work for Specialist unless you could get as slab of vinyl or something and put over panel to hide that slice.

While the pics are awesome, Mark is right we have to develop a official CRL through this process, not off-site with no oversight.

Im ready to help out any way I can

That looks great now get em muddy!

You can see the relavent positions

in all cases when it comes to the caps and the location of the telemetry unit, the CRL is always correct. My chinstrap goes to pop rivets inside the screw cap covers. I had to figure out the location so its fits me right.

Roger that! Carry on.

yes, PVA glue, common white school glue for Yanks. The length was probably 2.5 to 3 inches just glued to the back of the hand.

I looked up the Catalon and I can get the tubes out of the UK through Ebay. @IcyTrooper which US equivelant did you find? The overlock thread is what I used on my gloves as well. I put a second layer of PVA on them to hold them in place. those caps are just like what I have on mine, and mine cover where the chinstrap is riveted in. As always with Spec Ops CRLs, they are your freind. CRL Helmet page Well done overall!

Those came out great and I know that was some crazy sewing. They will wear in and get really comfortable soon. @Scubacat years ago I saw a all black snowtrooper, aka ashtrooper. That got my interest (as Im half done with my own snowtrooper)

The scew caps are an amazon item, they are just covers that would cover like furniture assembly screws. I roughened them up with sanpaper and put them on with a rivet. Your suit is custom, could you find out which fabric it was, or get a pic of the bolt used? We are having a discssion in another WIP about the bolts of fabric used. I have sprayed the inside of my other custom cast helmets with truck bed lining to get rid of the awful appearance. Which putty are you thinning with acetone? I have used a lot of model buiding putty thinned down but it really cracks badly when I apply it. I have been using UV cure resin to do some seam filling and layer line removal. Which helmet file are you printing? I found one for a General Veers helmet, but Im always looking for more of these. We got five good casts off the custom mold we had made, before the mold split and died. The guy who cast mine stood on a raw casting to show me how strong they are, combination of fiberglass and dragonskin resin.

The suit is supposed to be olive green, that said, when David took his photos the studio lighting changed the color of the suit. Its olive in its various shades. I used the CDCR suit, and even in their own photos under studio lights it looks wonky. My collar conversion came from the epulettes I took off, so I know its definitely a LE style coverall, those arent present on US military coveralls. Here is my suit in normal, convention hall light, and again outside just now. For further comparison of different makers, here are Blackskull and myself. His is newly completed and I believe its the Galls coverall, but it may be the US Navy coveralls "VINTAGE US NAVY OD COVERALLS UTILITY OLIVE GREEN NSN 8405-01-395-1135 " which is linked in the forum vendor list, but that particular item is sold. You would look for the same NSN number online. One more item to look at, which may be useful, is this link from Camolots. I am not sure about the lower leg details from how bad this picture is. There should not be any extra zippers etc unless its on a pocket that is easily removed, and this collar could be easily converted per my collar tutorial, or by adding a strip of fabric from the bottom of the leg.

Aaron how goes your build?

If there is ever a doubt, cover it with a strip of thin leather or vinyl. Aim for the higher standard when practical. Parts of this boot text comes from the existing boot text used Legion-wide for all trooper boots. Those often have zips, because when you have monster size 14EEE feet like mine with 24 inch calves, and VERY long heels ( I destroy the insides of all my boots) pulling boots on its not an option. Thats the reason zippers are allowed, and all commuter boots are made with zippers. One slab of vinyl or thin leather will be enough to cover all of your boots, it only has to be glued (or stitched, your option) to one side of the zipper to conceal it.

Good to see you out and about Christope!