Blackwatch

Jason this is the best view of this Ive seen. The on screen images arent giving us that much detail. Ok. let me rewrite the blaster proposal and see where we are. Im looking forward to seeing this on the 'verse. Ive got four printers that are just hungry for another blaster. Change log 1.3 E-10.5 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Magazine is extended length. Magazine may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. There is a detailed grille fixture on the top of the magazine running the length of the magazine. It features 8 slots. Power cylinder has 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders. There is a short accessory mount rail on the left side of the blaster in front of the power cylinders. It features 4 segments. Scope rail is fitted on a rear block while the front of the rail is angled to join the top of the barrel. Scope is a M1938 1943 version. Henglster has accurate eagle logo seen on Rogue One E-11 varians. The eagle logo should fit between the recessed screw holes above and below it. The eagle logo should the the more "blocky" style than the more art-deco style. A folding collapsing stock is in place. The proper type stock is from a Heckler Koch 416. A webbing sling attached to the rear stock with snap hook buckles is permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring). Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. Web sling is fitted with 1" (25mm) 316 stainless steel marine webbing snap hooks.

Are we agreed on the blaster text? we need to clear and lock that. Also, lets start new topics for WIPS, this is for the CRL discussion, we want to keep it limited to discussing the CRL.

Very good sir!

I trust starwars.com more than the wiki. I will update the blaster description.

Is this a resource we trust, as canon? My only issue with any wiki is that its crowd edited. Lets have a look at this: Blaster Change Log 1.2.1 E-10.5 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Magazine is extended length. Magazine may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders. There is a short accessory mount rail on the left side of the blaster in front of the power cylinders. Scope rail is fitted on a rear block while the front of the rail is angled to join the top of the barrel. Scope is a M1938 1943 version. A folding stock is in place. A webbing sling attached to the rear stock with snap hook buckles is permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring). Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. Web sling is fitted with 1" (25mm) 316 stainless steel marine webbing snap hooks.

If its in the photos of the uniforms were writing the CRLs for, it needs to be included, even if it is an option. If it isnt, we will be right back here in 3 or four months with someone asking why it wasnt covered in the first place, and wanting to know the reason we decided to ignore it. Same goes for things like the chincups, which were breaking and falling off on-set.

Simon to answer your query, its the original text from the mudtrooper version of the E10. The webbig is mounted to the blaster on the left side with snap hooks. I believe we left it intentionally vague on the Mudtrooper-its been a long time since we worked on that, but the lighting was terrible in most of the the finished shots. here is a clear shot of it. it looks like a single point sling attached aft of the reciever, in the stock mid -span with one strap going to a single hook. I also see there is a short picatinny rail on the left side where the flashlight would mount.

i need to go get that file. Ive not heard of the maker, thanks for that info. To me the boxes always looked like cast resin, this confirms it. So lets focus on the blaster first. Well swing back to this flashlight. Blaster Change Log 1.1 E-10 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Magazine is extended length. Magazine may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders. Scope rail is fitted on a rear blocks while the front of the rail is angled to join the top of the barrel. Scope is a M1938 1943 version. A folding stock is in place. Webbing sling is attached with snap hook buckles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring). Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. Web sling is fitted with 1" (25mm) 316 stainless steel marine webbing snap hooks.

Simon youre going to have to experiment with the colors in the agreed upon color ranges. Ultimately whoever gets the hard bitz done first will set the gold standard for color, but we all know photography changes everyhing. Simon is right and we can discuss the blaster here. Blaster Change Log 1.0 E-10 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300 or replica) mounted on left side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Magazine may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders. The righthand side of the barrel features a rectangle box with two antenna. The top antenna is longer than the bottom. A rocker switch is present on top of the box. The box may be fitted with red lights which illuminate through the grill. Scope rail is fitted on a rear blocks while the front of the rail is angled to join the top of the barrel. Scope is a M1938 1943 version. Either one or two scope rings can be mounted on the scope rail. The barrel features a folding foregrip. A folding stock is in place. Webbing sling is attached with snap hook buckles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring). Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. Web sling is fitted with 1" (25mm) 316 stainless steel marine webbing snap hooks.

so now we need someone to build the first one so we can submit to the LMO as a package.

Jason the armor looks great, boots are a tad tall for the Security troopers, be happy to see those other boots come in you have on order. Im glad you are liking the shock black. Ihavent used it yet, but I really want to see how it lays out on armor.

I love knots, but mine never look right. Thanks for posting this Miriam.

yes yes yes, and YES! Welcome to our part of the forums Daniel. Glad you are with us. I like your coverall, looks spot on! Do us a HEWJ favor and head over to this topic and introduce yourself. https://forum.specops501st.com/forum/35-spec-ops-recruits-report-in/ also, the medic troopers are looking for these exact coveralls. snatch them while you can.

WOW, pleather, jeeez. It makes sense , but yuck. Feel better Fraser!

thank you Shane!

Alexandre the only one we are ready to submit will be the armored variant, that needs to go through first then we can work the others, I believe Rix Road security troopers are next on the list. I would say lay everything out and photograph it for the CRL. All components, several shots, against a plain white background with no shadows showing. I had to do this several times for my CRL. Photograph as the highest possible quality you can get. We will dump everthing into a drive and load to the CRL template once we are ready.

im glad to know there is a slab of metal in there to hold the shape and hold the bells, I have wondered about that.

TJ thats horrible! absolutely no need to apologize, this is all for fun and real life and burst pipes come first! With armor in hand, as well as your dye work, i believe you are in the front of the group. I know all about being a CRL model and all the changes needed, hopefully we will get through the process quickly. Im printing my armor, it will take days to print, and even more days to post process. With the input above, I believe we are finished with the Boots section, and with the CRL in general. I will post the boots into the original post in this topic, and provide a link. Please, everyone reading this, go look at the first post in the topic with all the finalized text and review it. If you see anything please post it here so we can correct it. Ive said it before, Ill say it again, thank you for your efforts!

I print armor and helmets. as long as the edits can be made and you can size it to fit you, printing armor is a "thing" these days.

Heading us back towards the boot, so we can complete this first Andor CRL before the end of year, one last look at the boots, with the line about hobnails present since we cannot confirm they actually exist on any of the Andor used boots. Change Log 1.1 Boots Calf high black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. If seams are present on the shaft they are at the rear only. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional. Jackboot buckles should not be shiny/can be painted dingy grey or gun-metal color. Hobnails may be present on the front of the jackboots. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. German "jack boot" style boots are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather. Once we have this nailed down, we can post for further public review, and package it up and send it to the LMO for review. Then it is up to the LMO. We have to have one made for the CRL model- to the L2 level- so you Troopers with pieces and parts on order and in production are up on deck first. Once you have all your components photographed, the CRL will be ready to go live with LMOs approval.

Im printing my own and my lack of experience printing this big multipiece armor parts is showing. i ahve to cut it up in big chunks to fit my print bed, which has created a new issue ive never run into. Looks good to me, and confirms theres no way in the 7 hells I can wear this armor as-is. how flexile are your straps? Last night on a whim while looking for paint for an Endor Commando I found a Montana Gold color, S9000 Shock Black. It may fit the bill for the Rix Road troopers.

me too, i mean thats OLD leather and would fall apart. Would love to know who builds them.

Thank you Shane these are great and tell the tale. SO, the buckles aren't exactly chrome. They have a bit of grit to them. And the soles are smooth like my old boots that I had re-soled. I sure would love to know where they obtain all these boots from. If they are actual, real vintage boots, or made by a boot supply vendor for movie use.

Troopers Thank you for your patience, your endurance, your input and your attention. I guess we are done with the trousers, not much there honestly. We can move on to the Boots section. Base text for Mudtrooper: Boots Jackboot or kersey boot style, knee high smooth black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot. This need not be functional. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. Boots shall be tall enough to fit both shin straps. Boots shall be heavily weathered. Boots should form fit to the calf and not be loose. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots do not have a zipper. Boots are made of leather. But this is not a mudtrooper boot. Its a regular jackboot, shorter than mudtroopers, and more in line with any other non-officer. It is not heavily weathered, just normal from walking on whatever surface. So lets look at the jackboot description, this is a direct copy of the IOC's bridge crew boot section of the CRL. Change log 1.0 Boots Calf high black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. If seams are present on the shaft they are at the rear only. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional. Jackboot buckles should not be shiny/can be painted dingy grey or gun-metal color. Hobnails may be present on the front of the jackboots. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. German "jack boot" style boots are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather. So this is where we rely on the power of photos to tell the tale. Are the buckles actually dingy? On Rix Road they are clearly silver and reflect light, but what about on the trail on Aldhali? And, are hobnails present? They are not on Rix Road, we have clear images of the bottoms of the boots there, but what about on Aldhani?

I dont know much about what goes on on a movie set, so Privacy Cloaks is interesting. What do they do? Why did you wear them? TeaJay I can delete the L2 hat line about the back flap. If we are happy with the pants, we can press on to the boots. I will come back to this tomorrow so we have time to get any more discussion in overnight.