Blackwatch

i had to take apart a set of welding gloves and resew them to make the fingers smaller, i dont know why but on me gloves tend to run much larger in the finger than in the hand. I often wear , or reduce to the size of, a Medium glove so the fingers are tighter.

I have a set of hoth speeder pilot gloves from PilotBay in Sunrider Base area. Shannon made my gloves special, and they sure look like these, but all leather. It would be worth reaching out to her, show her the glove reference, and see if she can make them. Im super happy with my gloves, and I didnt have to wait for a wave to order them, even though she doesnt show gloves in the posts anymore.

For a seam like that, along the gaunt part, you could split the glove and restitch it, then reinforce it on the inside to keep it from coming apart. Maybe it was another topic but I though we had already discussed the content of the glove, and came to the conclusion that it was nubbly like Nomex, which is what the German flight gloves are.

I just read through the terms, and its a valid point since you are asking about sharing the file.

i bought a printer a while back and printed a few commpads at .16 and I gotta say after making a bunch of resin pads, till my mold died, Im rather impressed. zero cleanup. I even printed a all pink pad for one of my Black Widows.

i hae EXTENSIVE use of spraypaint and always use Rutoleum2x. Clear coats can be really touchy and may frost on you dependng on how cold the can is, how warm the plastic is, whether today is green or purple and what flavor car tires are today. I haven't had a lot of luck with them over the years. That said just regular spray paint when applied warm has served me well. yes, it will eventually scuff, but thats normal and expected.

Thank you!

Im working on my A wing pilot that I abandoned back in 2015j, so, yeah I get it.

There is a fairly wide ranging discussion from last year regarding the boots, you can check out these links: As well as my vendor resource list. The thing with online ads and sales is how frequently the lsitings change, which may even be seasonal. Now that we are into Winter, boot sales will start disappearing as we move into Spring and the spring line comes in. it took me a while to find them. you may even have to get a pair of pull on engineer boots, and cut them down.

Im finally back in the forums. The Nomex glove ( a combat pilots flight glove) is a half- thin leather (palm) and half Nomex ( a fire retardant aramid fiber material). The Nomex part of the glove (back of the hand fingers and wrist) takes on this characteristic nubby effect after being worn a while. There ARE rough leather welding gloves, Harbor Frieght ( a US tool supply store) has an inexpensive, nubby leather (rough grain outside) glove. here is a pair of Tillmans that are sold in airgas stores in the US. Tractor Supply Hardware should have an almost identical glove. Shoulder Split hide is the rough glove; otherwise TIG and MIG gloves are smooth. My dad was a welder, and old fashioned stick welder and he used rough outside gloves, he never owned a pair of the modern, smooth leather TIG/MIG gloves. https://www.airgas.com/product/Safety-Products/Gloves/Welders-Gloves/p/TIL1000?fo_c=306&fo_k=068f1094c01daf2957bab49b94707756&fo_s=cstmc&s_kwcid=AL!10136!3!381190325900!!!g!813728555408!&utm_arg=SEM:Google:GSN_-_Items_-_Safety_Products-Welders_Gloves:GSN_Item_-_Tillman|Safety_Products-Welders_Gloves|0-30|C:75:pla:pla:Airgas:safety_products::TIL1000::PLA&gclid=CjwKCAiAzrWOBhBjEiwAq85QZ1uyCFkEv9FUBtR_g1-7W2mlGrzxoBJt6ua6kWuZsM5SMbX2-QvLyxoC__MQAvD_BwE

I can see it being sage green (typical army pickle suit green gloves, not the modern tan) and heavily weathered with either sand or taupe. I use taupe a lot while weathering. I make my own with acrylics, oyster grey and a drop or two of tan. The texture looks like well worn nomex so Im totally on board with that. I dont think this glove will look right if it starts off as the tan nomex glove, it will get too dark too fast. That said, the weathering over a sage green glove will have to be so even that it alters the color of the green.

Rat were you able to keep all the red looking the same out of the rattle can *assuming same batch numbers* . Ive had one hell of a time with red. If somethings going to give me trouble, its red.

looking forward to your progress

i missed this! Congratulations!!!!!!!

Kurt Im going to print this and see how it comes out. I got a printer a month back and Im always looking for new projects.

Rowen you will see something on the CRL that did not exist years ago, that is the Gallery View. Click that, you will be surprised what you see.

Glad to hear that. As far as I know there are only two of us, myself and Neil. Neil had his pack 3d printed by Crooknight and it took him weeks to get it sanded out once it arrived. I made my pack and shovel entirely out of Sintra in a couple of days. You can see both of ours in our respective work tabs. Jasons helmet seems a bit small to me, he sent me B grade samples, which I reviewed in these forums. Quality was TOP NOTCH. I emailed him back to ask if he actually sent me B grades to review.

ive seen some people have some real issues with that green paint either it wont stick or it bubbles up or whatever yours went down really well.

when you use some E6000 roughen up both sides and it will grip better. I use a lot of it.

I might just knock a set of these out, they are useful for a BUNCH of different costumes!

it looks screen accurate to me for sure. just remember that your GML will be looking at the CRL photos and you can supply these as well when you submit the costume for approval.

This might be one of the molds he purchased from WTF. What about the RADU helmet?

Anton probably has the better answer but I will add what I can, I agree that the rounded rivets will look better than flat rivets, thats the visual I get from looking at the pictures posted. L2 is intended to be harder to achieve, and you can get a functional pillbox on thingiverse and print it out. I have one on my TIE helmet. My helmet originally came with just a bump in 2008, so I upgraded it. On the vocoder I saw a pic, and IIRC it was from Radu when he was developing the helmet for the tv show, and the vocoder was separate. I had discussed with staff making this, as a separate piece. Personally, and this is just me and my very old fashioned brain, I would use thin black tubing like either RC fuel line tubing, or even heat shrink tubing, and then run a heavy wire through it and form it. I hope this helps and look forward to your build progress.

Steven it looks to me like you are off to an awesome start!!!! Now lets bring it home, get you approved and get you set up as L2 Specialist!

Hello Jean, welcome to the forum. If you have worked through our discussion you know that its quite extensive and there was a lot of discussion and measurement on the belts, and that overall this costume is made of smaller than standard components. On the Belt since it was @TX-20113@MahXPrime who did the discussion and measurements, I will let them answer, since they understand this costume more intimately than I do. On the Thermal Detonator , after rather extensive review of the components, and how the game illustrates that it is attached, we chose to leave it to the wearer to determine how best to mount it. So, its up to you. Game use magic electron glue, but the real world has to figure things out. Talk to your GML and find out what will be acceptable. Magnets have been suggested for a lot of things, and perhaps it would work. The 8 snaps should appear silver, and appear bright in the game, with little to not weathering. I have a functional pillbox on the back of my TIE helmet, its a stl file so that it opens and closes like the real plectrum box that was used on the original TIE helmets in '77. The separate vocoder was discussed by Captain Radu who made the helmets used for the Star Wars Show, and that is discussed here. The EF patches appear to be correct based on L2 of the CRL, but I will say that their patch appears to be on a square weave twill that appears to be more boxlike than vertically oriented. @TX-20113 or @MahXPrime should have a better answer than I can give now, the patch is not listed in the Vendor list for Del Meeko. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Patches are vinyl on textile with no edge border. If twill is used for the patch material the fabric texture will be vertically oriented. I hope this helps.