Blackwatch

Eric thats what I used on my Sapper, Neal found those gloves and they fit the bill.

My Endor commando boots are painted Boots Brown *yes its a color) and it really didnt flake off. My ATAT Door gunner shoes are painted white acrylic (in the old way of doing things) and they flake off just putting them on. With a modern paint like Rustoleum2x on a clean sole, my bet is that it will stick a bit in the areas that do not get a lot of flex, but will wear down on the contact points and around the heel edge.

i went back through the discussion. There was a 1 year break in there, and we thought it connected to the belt to hold it up.

Rat here is the backplate image for reference, from our CRL discussion . Also, all of my rubber straps have a piece of webbing made into it, the rubber strap is for looks, the webbing is what gets fed and sorted through slots/ octagons in my armors.

Ok everyone, just got my computer to unlock. its old (not my laptop at work, my old computer at home), and now I can post. I read the text for the suit, and have read the discussion,and Im in agreement that these shoud be L1 items. I was so dialed in to the neck closure when I last looked at this, that I didnt look at the sleeves but in the back of my mind I know its there. This needs to be there for L1, as this will be a slightly different suit. We are not requiring pocket flaps for the Army Trooper, so requiring both arm pockets with flaps should be an L1 item. On the chevron closure on the strap, my way of thinking is this: Swap the now-L2 text for the L1 text. L1 has snaps, or a topstitched line holding velcro. This is easy mode. But for L2, its not supposed to be easy mode. You need to plan ahead, the same way I make X wing coveralls with invisible closures, so I sew the velcro on first before I make the neck closure. To me, this is the default closue. Invisible. Bra hook, internally stitched velcro, magnet hidden inside the fabric, glued velcro dot, whichever the member prefers to go with.

wouldnt the drop pouches be described the same way we did for del meeko?

The uniforms are made by some race somewhere in a factory, punched out by the billions, and would be the same. Which I dont understand since Sunbers uniform is the same as the other Officers, with the green *(and black) coveralls. Im iffy on it. That said, when you get coveralls you have to make your own neck closure, so its either velcro or snap you are adding, since the snap is optional. I would like to add a line for Sunber, since its clearly visible in all the images from front and 3/4 views: Green Imperial Flight Suit One-piece olive green coverall / jumpsuit / flight suit with a front invisible zipper and mandarin collar. Each shoulder has a patch as noted below. 2 large chest pockets. 2 large cargo pockets sit on the outside of each leg from around mid-thigh and not extending past the bottom of the knee, with a rectangular flap covering the top. There are no leg pockets below the knees. Pockets may feature gussets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Mandarin collar is closed by a chevron shaped strap across the neck. Collar is closed by a rectangular piece of Velcro. Stitching is visible from the exterior. 2 chest pockets feature flap closures made of matching fabric, as wide as the pocket, and roughly 1.25" (32mm) tall.

Very good. Since the hat is quite common to other Officers, can we clear and lock and move on to the next component, the green flight suit?

Once more dear friends, into the breech--- Take a look at the reference photos , and note that all officers are wearing their Imperial hats with code disks in place. Troopers are optional, however officers are seen worn. I propose the following changes to keep the current style we are using. This will be CRL version V.1 red strikethrough - removed text green- new proposed text Hat, Olive Fabric is a medium weight suiting material of olive green. Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6mm) (107mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps” overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6mm)(107mm) high. Front bill extends 3" (76mm) down, decorated with (5) (6) or (7) concentric stitches. An Imperial Code Disk is may be positioned in the center of the front vertical “flap”. but is not required.

this thing just sceams black Cylon Cylons and Starbuck and pranged Lambdas, oh, my!

you know, thats not a bad idea. Start over. lock this and create a link to that. We did it befor and it worked to our benefit.

Ok lets do that. I dont know when I am going to get called for this maintenance team, they are enroute. I would like to lock it when you are done, so everyone can read, and see what we are about to do, and catch up, then we can take it piece by piece.

Ryan I agree, over the two years its kind of bounced back and forth. im at work waiting on a maintenance team to arrive for a hard bent jet, so Ill do what I can. Regarding pouches, both here and in Kessels WIP discussion, I found this. This is our left pouch setup answer. It was always there I just didnt see it.

Ive got a 105 shell used as a doorstop. love having real brass around.

AHH. ok, it was determined in the discussion back and forth between Neal, Matt and Shane that the trooper at the top of the graphic is not Sunber, but is a regular trooper in the optional hat. he does not have the PALS triple pouch on the back that Sunber has. I believe that graphic has created some confusion over time, but helped us establish the troopers. The double snap is the same thing I have on my Sapper in back, with the double snaps; that is consistant across the art. I would like to bring up the belt. On the Army troopers there was the discussion to remove belt holes, as they are not seen in all panels. I wrote the new CRL to allow them, nor not. Since we do see the belt holes on Sunber, I would prefer to keep them as a L2 option.

Eric I posted answers to the CRL proposal questions in the proposal topic. I would much rather keep those discussions there, in one place, than on a WIP because going back and forth with multiple input is too much to track. I will be creating a new updated post soon, maybe tonight, with the updated and proposed text. Regarding bulk--those few pouches on me would look weird. I need a lot of pouches to fill out of all my belt. BUT, to my knowledge theres no left side view, and in the end, we are talking about a total of about 6 pouches on the belt. Looking at the pouches on your belt, I would think you could ditch the left side PALS cuff pouches. The two pouches you have on the right sure seem awfully big, compared to our ref images Can they be trimmed down? they look too tall. I like this holster, a lot. Looks great and fits the description I wrote in the proposal.

Ive got about five tabs open going back and forth in the discussion, so Im going to reference back to the original discussions where I can. So, way back when a lifetime ago in good old 2018 when all was right with the world, the LMO determined that lt Sunber is an officer and a unique character so he does not have the same mandatory layout. Collar: Level 2 certification (if applicable) Mandarin collar is closed by a chevron shaped strap across the neck. Collar is closed by a rectangular piece of velcro. Stitching is visible from the exterior. Level two certification (if applicable): Mandarin collar is closed by a chevron shaped strap across the neck. A single snap is present near the chevron point. Snap does not need to be functional. Snap should be olive green in color. I agree that the collar description needs to be changed. That will go into the rewrite. Pouches: Back in May 2019 Shane commented: Raider, For the pouch specifics here you go: 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the right of the belt buckle where the harness meets the belt: Condor 191044 or MA15 A gas-mask style pouch sits on the right of the above pouches: Condor MA2 * This is a close match due to the actual gas mask pouch is a vertical mount/opening A tactical triple AK magazine PALS belt pouch should be on the rear of the belt: Condor MA33 An electrobinoculars pouch sits on the left of the belt buckle where the harness meets the belt: Condor 191064 or MA8. *The actual bino pouch(191064) is 6" high while the utility pouch (MA8 ) is 4.5" high but would require removal of the molle/pals on the front of the pouch. 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the left of the electrobinoculars pouch: Condor 191044 or MA15 @pm07 Shane where / which image did you use to determine the left side layout? I see your description here, starting at the buckle and working around to the PALS pouch. I see a pouch on the left side behind the macrobinocular pouch. Possibly a mask pouch. Thats an option, but Im not following what your saying here: 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the left of the electro-binoculars pouch. >> 2 MA 15 Grenade Pouch OR rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the left of the electro-binoculars pouch. A gas-mask style pouch sits on the right of the above pouches. >> A gas-mask style pouch sits on the right of the above pouches, with a visible double snap closure or appear to have such. Comlink Imperial Style Comlink to be worn in the comlink clip on the left suspender >> Olive Green Imperial Style Comlink to be worn in the comlink clip on the left shoulder. -----Agreed on change Holster Holster is worn on the right side so it hangs below all belt pouches and after the MA47 double handcuff MOLLE PALS belt pouches. >> Holster is worn on the right side so it hangs below all belt pouches and after 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut. Lets make a change and break this up for clarity Holster Holster is worn on the wearer's right hip, and hangs below all belt pouches. The holster is situated behind the double handcuff belt pouches. The back of the holster is open except for the bottom 1.5" (38mm) with a strap to secure it over the top of the handgrip. The holster is olive green, and is made of leather, molded kydex, ABS, Fiberglass or other rigid material which will hold its shape. If you remember the original Colonial Warrior holsters they were made out of split Kydex. I used to make these for local Warriors. I would like to nail these items down, and then Im going to post a updated rewrite here, or in another topic, for review.

ty I love all your mold making abilities!~ i hate making molds! my old eyes are going blind, which urethane are you using for your molds?

hey guys, sorry I kinda fell off the face of the earth for a bit. Ive kind of been swamped both at work and at home, and until today I havent gotten anythig done as far as forum work. I had to set up a work office from scratch, go through an audit, pass that, and ive got serious family drama going on right now. But Im able to come back into the forums now. Reading and catching up. ===caught up=== the soles will just need to be painted for the CRL and wear, and like anything else it will just wear off and need to be repainted.

great progress! Dont worry aobut the montana gold, thats a US brand and you will need to look for 'graffitti / urban art paint" in your art stores, or even model paint like Revell from hobby shops. You may try some silk flower paint, like we use to build Endor Commandos. it MIGHT work, its hard to say. Try to get an acrylic paint if you can. Neat way to hold your belt up! On the boots Im in the Commuter II, and it has a large opening at the top. I have big legs, about 22" at the calf. I looked at the Denver Midland boots that Kessel posted, and they seem a bit smaller at the top than mine. The only way I now to make a boot bigger, is to make it bigger by adding a panel where the zipper goes. You would take half of the zipper off, get some heavy vinyl, mount the zipper to that, and then add the panel to the other side of the boot. Talk to your GML before you do that- but zippers are allowed for us guys that cannot wear pull on boots. My black motorcyle boots have a triangular wedge in there to open up the top of the shaft about two and a half inches. I have big legs, its a common issue for us, but its the workaround we commonly use. oh and the serger strips added to the gloves- I showed that to Kessel. I cheated! When you paint the gloves, everything is the same color.

topic updated with new resources for green coveralls.

Good to hear from you Shane!! yeah this whole past (THAT WHICH SHALL NOT BE NAMED) sucked in a LOT of ways.

I have renamed this topic to hopefully make it easier to find for people looking for parts. I am also going to be discussing runs of parts with a Vendor with a good reputation. We have a fairly steady supply of the Imperial Army patches now, and we have a good helmet supplier. Kessel has done stellar work finding us boot options. Tonight I have listed an accurate representation of the Telemetry Unit which has been written into the new CRL for the Army Trooper. This comes from TrooperPX and I want one for my own helmet to upgrade. Please check the list above when you go looking for Army parts, and follow the color guides as required.

i went back and re read our conversation stream on that, and we did agree that they appear in 50% of the panels. It was my understanding from the conversation that the basic belt would work for L1, but a belt would likely need to be fabricated for the L2 level. I will rewrite the section to allow grommets at the L1 level, and leave it to the builder. Look for the changes in the topic above, I wont quote it below.