Blackwatch

this thing just sceams black Cylon Cylons and Starbuck and pranged Lambdas, oh, my!

you know, thats not a bad idea. Start over. lock this and create a link to that. We did it befor and it worked to our benefit.

Ok lets do that. I dont know when I am going to get called for this maintenance team, they are enroute. I would like to lock it when you are done, so everyone can read, and see what we are about to do, and catch up, then we can take it piece by piece.

Ryan I agree, over the two years its kind of bounced back and forth. im at work waiting on a maintenance team to arrive for a hard bent jet, so Ill do what I can. Regarding pouches, both here and in Kessels WIP discussion, I found this. This is our left pouch setup answer. It was always there I just didnt see it.

Ive got a 105 shell used as a doorstop. love having real brass around.

AHH. ok, it was determined in the discussion back and forth between Neal, Matt and Shane that the trooper at the top of the graphic is not Sunber, but is a regular trooper in the optional hat. he does not have the PALS triple pouch on the back that Sunber has. I believe that graphic has created some confusion over time, but helped us establish the troopers. The double snap is the same thing I have on my Sapper in back, with the double snaps; that is consistant across the art. I would like to bring up the belt. On the Army troopers there was the discussion to remove belt holes, as they are not seen in all panels. I wrote the new CRL to allow them, nor not. Since we do see the belt holes on Sunber, I would prefer to keep them as a L2 option.

Eric I posted answers to the CRL proposal questions in the proposal topic. I would much rather keep those discussions there, in one place, than on a WIP because going back and forth with multiple input is too much to track. I will be creating a new updated post soon, maybe tonight, with the updated and proposed text. Regarding bulk--those few pouches on me would look weird. I need a lot of pouches to fill out of all my belt. BUT, to my knowledge theres no left side view, and in the end, we are talking about a total of about 6 pouches on the belt. Looking at the pouches on your belt, I would think you could ditch the left side PALS cuff pouches. The two pouches you have on the right sure seem awfully big, compared to our ref images Can they be trimmed down? they look too tall. I like this holster, a lot. Looks great and fits the description I wrote in the proposal.

Ive got about five tabs open going back and forth in the discussion, so Im going to reference back to the original discussions where I can. So, way back when a lifetime ago in good old 2018 when all was right with the world, the LMO determined that lt Sunber is an officer and a unique character so he does not have the same mandatory layout. Collar: Level 2 certification (if applicable) Mandarin collar is closed by a chevron shaped strap across the neck. Collar is closed by a rectangular piece of velcro. Stitching is visible from the exterior. Level two certification (if applicable): Mandarin collar is closed by a chevron shaped strap across the neck. A single snap is present near the chevron point. Snap does not need to be functional. Snap should be olive green in color. I agree that the collar description needs to be changed. That will go into the rewrite. Pouches: Back in May 2019 Shane commented: Raider, For the pouch specifics here you go: 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the right of the belt buckle where the harness meets the belt: Condor 191044 or MA15 A gas-mask style pouch sits on the right of the above pouches: Condor MA2 * This is a close match due to the actual gas mask pouch is a vertical mount/opening A tactical triple AK magazine PALS belt pouch should be on the rear of the belt: Condor MA33 An electrobinoculars pouch sits on the left of the belt buckle where the harness meets the belt: Condor 191064 or MA8. *The actual bino pouch(191064) is 6" high while the utility pouch (MA8 ) is 4.5" high but would require removal of the molle/pals on the front of the pouch. 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the left of the electrobinoculars pouch: Condor 191044 or MA15 @pm07 Shane where / which image did you use to determine the left side layout? I see your description here, starting at the buckle and working around to the PALS pouch. I see a pouch on the left side behind the macrobinocular pouch. Possibly a mask pouch. Thats an option, but Im not following what your saying here: 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the left of the electro-binoculars pouch. >> 2 MA 15 Grenade Pouch OR rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut, sit to the left of the electro-binoculars pouch. A gas-mask style pouch sits on the right of the above pouches. >> A gas-mask style pouch sits on the right of the above pouches, with a visible double snap closure or appear to have such. Comlink Imperial Style Comlink to be worn in the comlink clip on the left suspender >> Olive Green Imperial Style Comlink to be worn in the comlink clip on the left shoulder. -----Agreed on change Holster Holster is worn on the right side so it hangs below all belt pouches and after the MA47 double handcuff MOLLE PALS belt pouches. >> Holster is worn on the right side so it hangs below all belt pouches and after 2 rectangular pouches with a top flap, and strap from top to bottom securing it shut. Lets make a change and break this up for clarity Holster Holster is worn on the wearer's right hip, and hangs below all belt pouches. The holster is situated behind the double handcuff belt pouches. The back of the holster is open except for the bottom 1.5" (38mm) with a strap to secure it over the top of the handgrip. The holster is olive green, and is made of leather, molded kydex, ABS, Fiberglass or other rigid material which will hold its shape. If you remember the original Colonial Warrior holsters they were made out of split Kydex. I used to make these for local Warriors. I would like to nail these items down, and then Im going to post a updated rewrite here, or in another topic, for review.

ty I love all your mold making abilities!~ i hate making molds! my old eyes are going blind, which urethane are you using for your molds?

hey guys, sorry I kinda fell off the face of the earth for a bit. Ive kind of been swamped both at work and at home, and until today I havent gotten anythig done as far as forum work. I had to set up a work office from scratch, go through an audit, pass that, and ive got serious family drama going on right now. But Im able to come back into the forums now. Reading and catching up. ===caught up=== the soles will just need to be painted for the CRL and wear, and like anything else it will just wear off and need to be repainted.

great progress! Dont worry aobut the montana gold, thats a US brand and you will need to look for 'graffitti / urban art paint" in your art stores, or even model paint like Revell from hobby shops. You may try some silk flower paint, like we use to build Endor Commandos. it MIGHT work, its hard to say. Try to get an acrylic paint if you can. Neat way to hold your belt up! On the boots Im in the Commuter II, and it has a large opening at the top. I have big legs, about 22" at the calf. I looked at the Denver Midland boots that Kessel posted, and they seem a bit smaller at the top than mine. The only way I now to make a boot bigger, is to make it bigger by adding a panel where the zipper goes. You would take half of the zipper off, get some heavy vinyl, mount the zipper to that, and then add the panel to the other side of the boot. Talk to your GML before you do that- but zippers are allowed for us guys that cannot wear pull on boots. My black motorcyle boots have a triangular wedge in there to open up the top of the shaft about two and a half inches. I have big legs, its a common issue for us, but its the workaround we commonly use. oh and the serger strips added to the gloves- I showed that to Kessel. I cheated! When you paint the gloves, everything is the same color.

topic updated with new resources for green coveralls.

Good to hear from you Shane!! yeah this whole past (THAT WHICH SHALL NOT BE NAMED) sucked in a LOT of ways.

I have renamed this topic to hopefully make it easier to find for people looking for parts. I am also going to be discussing runs of parts with a Vendor with a good reputation. We have a fairly steady supply of the Imperial Army patches now, and we have a good helmet supplier. Kessel has done stellar work finding us boot options. Tonight I have listed an accurate representation of the Telemetry Unit which has been written into the new CRL for the Army Trooper. This comes from TrooperPX and I want one for my own helmet to upgrade. Please check the list above when you go looking for Army parts, and follow the color guides as required.

i went back and re read our conversation stream on that, and we did agree that they appear in 50% of the panels. It was my understanding from the conversation that the basic belt would work for L1, but a belt would likely need to be fabricated for the L2 level. I will rewrite the section to allow grommets at the L1 level, and leave it to the builder. Look for the changes in the topic above, I wont quote it below.

It looks right for a Rogue 1 helmet, which is right for a Del Meeko at least at L1. Ill let the real Del experts weigh in on whether it would fit an L2 requirement, but keep in mind that our new Del Meeko CRL has not been published yet and we are still working on the originally published CRL. You can tell its an R1 because of details like the recessed rectangle on the mohawk, and the recessed disc spots on the ears. I cant see the original buckle mounts on the faceplate, but we know those are different from OT helmets. Overall it looks good to me, and make sure to log in over at the Inferno squadron topics if you are looking to go Del. Heres the Del helmet from the current CRL By comparison of size heres mine, its a Dan Laws, and its about the biggest out there. These bigger helmets work better for bigger people, with broad shoulders. it pretty much stretches a Raider helmet bag and ive already broken one zipper trying to close it.

New updates for metric sizes in orange.

Here is a clear, one -sheet version of our proposals: Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet - Version 1 Open face helmet whose base consists of a dome with rim and helmet skirt. The helmet skirt is to be smooth all around with no indentations on the rear. A telemetry unit is attached centered to the right or left sides of the dome aligned to the rim. The telemetry unit consists of: Rectangular box with a slight bevel and details on. The box is in the same color as the helmet. 1 telemetry unit details closely resembles the reference photos. The helmet is to be painted in olive tone with a flat or satin finish. A black trim is covering the edge of the helmet skirt and forehead of the dome. Black chin strap and chin cup. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Screw caps are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt where the chin cup straps meet the helmet. The helmet Telemetry Unit (TU) is mounted to the left side of helmet, and is larger than the standard Imperial TU. The TU features three lines at the front of the unit, below a raised disc 3/8" (10mm) wide. The outfacing side of the TU has a 1" to 1.125" (25-31mm) raised disc. The rear portion of the TU has a raised rectangular block which is the same overall height and thickness as the raised disc, and extends back from the TU 3/16" (3mm). The rear raised block continues around the backside of the TU, to the mounting flange at the helmet. The top of the TU features a raised bar the width and length of the TU, stopping just short of both upper corners of the TU. The TU has a mounting flange which closely matches the curvature of the helmet. The TU matches the same color of the helmet, and may be weathered. Goggles - Version 1 Goggles should have a square-like black or green frame with angled sides and dark green lenses. Goggle strap is a minimum of 1" (25mm) wide, as required by the goggle width. Black is acceptable for basic approval. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Goggle straps are green or grey-green, and are as wide as the goggle mount slots permit. Goggle frame is green. Hat, Olive - Version 2 Fabric is a medium weight suiting material of olive green. Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps” overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6mm) high. Front bill extends 3" (76mm) down, decorated with (5) (6) or (7) concentric stitches. An Imperial Code Disk may be positioned in the center of the front vertical “flap,” but is not required. Green Imperial Flight Suit One-piece olive green coverall / jumpsuit / flight suit with a front invisible zipper and mandarin collar. Each shoulder has a patch as noted below. 2 large chest pockets. 2 large cargo pockets sit on the outside of each leg from around mid-thigh and not extending past the bottom of the knee, with a rectangular flap covering the top. There are no leg pockets below the knees. Rank bars of any kind are not permitted. Pockets may feature gussets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Mandarin collar is closed by a chevron shaped strap across the neck. A single snap is present near the chevron point. Snap does not need to functional. Snap should be olive green in color. Imperial Army Patch A shield shaped patch. The patch has an Imperial cog symbol approximately 2.75" to 3" (70-76mm) in diameter. The background of the patch has a more narrow shield shaped design on top of a box colored a darker shade of green. Olive Gloves Olive drab, wrist length gloves constructed of leather, Kevlar or similar material. Enclosed fingers. No buckles, straps, etc. May have three stitched lines or square padding on the back of the hand. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves are made of leather with the correct set of parallel lines stitched on the back of the hand. Web Harness Olive green colored, double strap “H” harness which travels from the lower back, and up over the shoulders. The harness system attaches to the belt. Harness is made of 2" (50mm) olive green nylon webbing. Visible snap-hook style fasteners that attach to belt eyelets are acceptable. Tri-glides may be present on front or back of the suspenders. Back of suspenders may be permanently fastened to the belt, but not required. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Harness fasteners are not seen, and may be hidden behind the belt. Tri-glides are present on the front suspenders for harness adjustment. Tri-glides are level with each other. Belt Belt is a nylon military style quick release web belt. Belt is olive green in color. Belt may feature eyelets along both sides of its length, but these are not required for approval. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt buckle is olive green in color. Belt Pouches Belt pouches are olive green in color and should be made of nylon or similar material. A minimum of 4 small pouches are required, which may consist of any combination of double handcuff, small utility pouches, magazine pouches or other MOLLE style pouches of similar size. Two pouches should be placed in front - One on each side of the belt buckle where the harness meets the belt. The remaining pouches may be placed anywhere on the sides or back of the belt. Any additional OD green MOLLE style pouches are encouraged to fill out the belt, but are not required. Pouches with zippers shall have the zippers covered or concealed either with a matching fabric or tight weave webbing. Zipper pulls are either removed or hidden from view. Boots Below the calf black or green leather or leather-like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/leather, it is painted black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Olive green 8” to 9” (20-23cm) high boots. Pants legs shall be tucked into boots and fluffed to give appearance of original source art. Weathering of the boots is encouraged. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. TK Ammo Belt Belt face is made of white plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” to 3.25” (70-83mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. Belt may be worn to match reference art, above or below the pistol belt. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ROTJ style TK ammo belt. No buttons are present on belt. Drop boxes shall be ANH Stormtrooper size, not ROTJ stormtrooper size. Weathering of ammo belt is encouraged. E-11 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. DH-17 Blaster Scratch built or high-end prop replica. E-11 Holster Holster is made of Nylon, leather or similar material. Black or olive green in color.

it comes down to two kinds of pilots and the ATAT driver: Regular Pilots *Im a TI and ATAT driver* which should be on the large side. It was made from a US Navy APH-6 size Large helmet, with a Stunt TK faceplate stuck into it. That gives us the size. for Del Meeko and the Inferno squad helmets, we just fiished up the CRL for that, and that helmet is small. Frankly, as small as the helmet should be, I bet I could not wear it. Ive worn a ton of different helmets from different makers, but since thenew Del Meeko CRL requires that the helmet be made small on purpose, Im passing on the costume. Could you post up a picture of the helmet you printed? with a tape measure going over the helmet? I had a helmet comparison topic posted in the JRS years ago, but photobucket ate a ton of my pics. here is Jez's site of the original helmets Star Wars helmets . com and the TIE and ATAT direct links.

if its actually armor something thin like Sintra would handle it Ok. mine are mounted with elastic on the inside so there is some give when I walk.

1. GREAT find on that slate blue. I love that color. Ill grab a can of this weekend JUST BECAUSE its a great color. 2. agree with the knees, I dont see any issues with the text, but I really dont get how the conical parts would blend into the undersuit. Does that mean its mounted to the suit? or, APPEAR to be mounted to the undersuit, using a flange hidden underneat the knee armor? 3: On the boots, if Gio wants a stab at it, ok, but being a armor maker that mounts sintra on top of boots, my reational would be to prototype them out in cardboard, then build it up in 3mm black sintra. I built my Mk41 battle armor boots this way, withthe boot mounted on a big thick floor foam pad. This was how i prototyped them, and the hinge at the toe had to work so I could walk. Just an idea, but its how i tend to handle parts like this.

were working out the blue grey color. it will be a lot easier in spray can, i love to use model paints and spray cans are available, its just if we can get what we agree on. Alex has info on some of the paints he used, some were custom mixes too. We'll get it across the line, push pull or drag. Theres amazing work going into this.

i just re read it, and i know that was a bear to write.

at 12mm a Tandy line 20 snap will work, i just measured one with my caliper and a Tandy line 24 snap is .57 inch, so it will work.