Blackwatch

Original Ref pics Lets go back to the original source art, and compare both the Imperial Officers, which we know wear black boots, and Lt. Sunber, a Trooper Officer. Heres the sapper pic for comparison, and they are filthy with the dirt carried up onto their pants legs. Probably black to start with, and just plain muddy sandy and dirty. Like me in the field after a week. Got chewed out by my Company CO for having filthy boots--he was sending me to Stinger school that afternoon. It was like day 6 in Graf after it rained. Neal is right, its artistic interpretation. OIriginal reference images to me, its the same basic tone as the overall uniform green, with dirt. I can also make the case for dusty black boots. Also a point is brought up here. Tucked Vs Bloused. Tucked and tight. Bloused at the top of the boot. Crammed into the top of the boot. I cant see any further options, and by the appearance, it is either bloused into the boot the way I wear my boots every day at work, or crammed in like a lot of guys I work with do. SO- I feel a shorter boot like the commuter is more in line, and gives a better overall appearance than a jackboot. There ARE shorter motorcycle engineer boots, the 7-8 inch shaft boots, that are very similar. Also agree with the belt that has no buttons between boxes.

on my end none of the most recent images are showing, just link boxes that I can click to take me to your imgur site when the renders are

I like the sound of that. Im loving the look of this. Hell maybe someday I can lose enough weight to wear something this cool!

Ok guys finally getting back in after my family issues and getting back on YET ANOTHER new schedule at work. Fist, this is not a OT commpad. I used to cast and paint those, this is NOT OT. two of the buttons are different sizes, Its also worn upside down to the way OT commpads are worn. There is a color I use a lot when I paint commpads, Tamiya calls it Titanium Gold LINK TO TITANIUM GOLD PAINT its a great color and captures this base look perfectly. The part that is inside the circle is a notch that is present on commpads. the OT commpads have a somewhat different shape, and totally depending on who made/ cast/ printed it, you get different details. I always paint the raised/ stepped levels of the commpads I make two different shades so they stand out. This is just a projection from the base layer, that is the layer on top of the black layer. My commpads are 3 layers thick. they are copies of the original, now vintage "BishopX" that was cloned a thousand time. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=XG4MEAap&id=C2C2E866244C7D5ECB409DEF6C1D85C8490334D3&thid=OIP.XG4MEAapqxITvhzfNuYz2gHaFj&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.jrs501st.com%2fwp-content%2fuploads%2f2014%2f02%2f799px-Generic-commpad.jpg&exph=600&expw=799&q=commpad&simid=608037093703748676&selectedIndex=11&ajaxhist=0 anyway, other than the two oversize buttons, heres my call on colors: Base -Black Background - Dark metallic gold tone or titanium gold Top row buttons Left to right when worn Black, White, Black , red. *white and red are larger than black buttons* rectangle detail on left side above buttons -white Rectangle detail with four depressions may have red center dot. Lower row of buttons - red all colors and buttons are to be weathered and muted. EDIT: I get home Thursday Ill see if I can make up two oversize buttons and paint according to the layout I noted above.

heres an update. Tambo Navy Trooper helmet. its a BIG helmet, closely about as big as the Army helmet you have there.

hey guys, ill be watching over this much more closely now. I like the interaction Im seeing, and from working on theother side of the sandbox with low rez graphics I can completely understand the frustrations of trying to figure out lines, boxes and shadows where they may or may not exist. In the end we make it match the references we have, its all we can do.

With tabs we can make two galleries. I dont have a TK belt, not really into making this mod for my Sapper/engineer--would you be willing to take it on? We will need a CRL model for the tabbed gallery.

Best of luck on a quick approval to join the ranks of the Imperial Engineers!

i wrote the report on the intergalactic supply helmet you can read it here: https://forum.specops501st.com/topic/6958-review-intergalacic-supply-army-trooper-helmet/ Take note that is two different helmets he provides, Army Trooper and Imperial Commander/ IS. Its a small helmet. Smaller than the helmets we produced locally. It fits fairly small on me, but it is a GREAT helmet. He provided me with B grade builds for review. If you take a number of these helmets, made by different makers, you will find they are all different. Tambos helmet is bigger than InterGalactic Supplies helmet which is smaller than the helmet we produced. Throw a 3d printer and unknmown files in the mix--who knows. here's how I roll---Id take that helmet, split it in four, and shrink it. But thats me and how I do things. Ive split and enlarged helmets over the years. Fiberglass mat is your friend. Then I would correct the size of the flare to fit you properly and drop a bump cap in it for fit. Take some 10 mm tape, run it across the dome in a perfect 90* cross, and cut at the edges of the tape. then tape the whole thing back together and check fit. it will be quite a bit smaller.

I agree that they are shorter than jacks. The Commuters look better, or at lest blouse down a jackboot to give this appearance. To my tired old eyes and this tired old monitor, this looks to be painted the same shade as the rest of the uniform. The uniform has a darker green shade for the shadows. The boots are the same funky grey-green used for the comic art. These boots are not covered in filth, but anyone who has ever spent more than half a day outside of the CUCV you are driving the old man around in, your boots weather rapidly and that Garrison finish is gone in no time The boots definitely stop above the ankle. Even my Chelseas as short as they are stop above my ankles. The effect can be achieved with proper blousing of the boot, or using a short boot like the commuter. . in my photo most of my weathering has flaked off. I had tromped through my ditch to get them extra filthy.

@Raider yes the orange text would replace the green text. That will be in the draft below. Currently cylinders are listed under options. If we do not list it at all, its not available as an option for approval. I will add a line to the Flightsuit section denoting no cylinders are present. CHANGE LOG 1 .2 Removals in red strikethrough Additions in dark orange Flight suit - One-piece flight suit is made out of Nomex, rip-stop nylon + canvas or similar heavy material. - The front zipper is covered by a 2-inch-wide piece of leather or leather-like material with vertical lines that attaches with Velcro over the zipper. - Approximately 1.5" (38.1mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. A 2.5-inch red embroidered or PVC Inferno Squad emblem, on a black background, is present on both shoulders. - The shoulders of the suit are slightly padded. - On the left forearm there is a compad pocket. Size might vary to match specific compad. +compad pocket spot is high enough on the forearm so the glove can't hide the compad *New Text* There is a commpad pocket that properly fits the commpad size, placed above the glove so that the pocket is not hidden. - On the left bicep, below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. No code cylinders are present. - There is a piece of nylon strapping sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. - The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. - The right sleeve has a cargo pocket below the cog emblem. - The pocket has a chevron flap. - There are two large chest pockets and two large front pockets with no zippers or flaps are present below the belt. - There are two leg pockets with chevron flaps, similar in proportion as the right arm sleeve pocket, are present. - There are no leg pockets below the knees. - There are two red stripes that run up the right side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the right leg and continues up to the right armpit. The second begins at the right wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. - There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the compad pocket. The stripe then continues above the compad pocket up to the bottom edge of the pen sleeves then continues above the pen sleeves, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. - There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the compad pocket. The stripe then continues above the compad pocket up to the bottom edge of the pen sleeves then continues above the pen sleeves, behind the patch emblem and up over the shoulder ending at the bottom of the collar. - A piece of leather or leather-like material is sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): + Patches are EMBROIDERED vinyl on textile with no edge border. If twill is used for the patch material the fabric texture will be vertically oriented. + Textured Rip stop / canvas is most accurate as it is a thick materials with a "solid" structure ; "loose" / soft / light material is not accurate.

I prefer that. Leave no ambiguaty, and its simple for the CRL translation teams. Making the change....now.....

Same thoughts here, its seen in more than one panel and we should be able to add it to the optional accessories section. From the art the tk belt is replacing the pouches on one trooper, but rides above or below the pistol belt on the other. We can add a tab showing the model wearing the TK belt. Copied from the current ANH stunt TK CRL: Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. What are your thoughts on boots? copied from current Army trooper CRL: Boots Calf high black leather or leather like material. Jackboot style is acceptable, see gallery. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1". This need not be functional. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Olive green 8”-9” high boots. Free of laces, decorative sticking, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. Zippers on the inside of the boots are acceptable, so long as they are concealed.

all I can say is--wow

Im for it. My reasoning is that is not an aberration, or a mistake, as it is seen in two panels. This would fall into the Optional Accessories with the goggles and E-11. I have not seen evidence of a thermal detonator, just the belt and drop boxes. My concern is that the TK belt is only seen, and not the rest of the harness and belt rig. We could make two versions since we now have tabs added to the gallery, standard harness, and belt/ drops only version. Copied from the current ANH Stunt CRL: Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. Size must be 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. The color is be white to off-white. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.

Then we are back to having a seam in all cases unless a silicon piece is used.

JoeShoe brings up the point about the ideal trooper and most of us are not that. As a Det, the feeling that we should drive the armorors is correct, our starndards set the precedent for their product. If they CHOOSE to alter their exiting products they will, some will not. To me the gap in back, if properly closed up to where only a closed up seam is somewhat visible, should be allowed for L1 basic approval. The silicon bridge is one I have struggled with (color / sheen matching on latex straps). So for me it comes down to A: Is the join between the split parts a game killer for L2? B: Is relocating the join/split to the shoulder a greater evil than the gap at the back? C : Can a top cover piece be manufactured to go over the top of the original piece with its split, to hide it? This would be held on with magnets or Velcro, etc.

Ive repaired a lot of cracks, youll also want to use some black plastic behind the crack to reinforce it and spread the pressure out. Without a backing plate / gusset its likely to fail at the weakest point , which is where they have crcacked now. Another consideration, which we do to aircraft sheetmetal, is to stop drill the crack with a 1/32" drill bit. drill at the end of the crack. Then glue the backing plate on behind the crack, then fill the hole with Bondo , sand and repaint.

heya. well, I used to own a Tambo navy trooper, and its BIG if assembled. However that said this is the Imperial Army trooper topics, and our helmets are pretty small. Now, if you are talking about the Imperial Navy Commando, that topics over here Navy Commando . NOW, if your sticking with me, Im a big guy with big shoulers and the Tambo Navy trooper helmet sat above my big shoulders properly. I had to order a new swoop and Tambo shipped it to me flat so I could curve it to fit. i hope this help?

i updated the block of text above.

its the exact same in the model buiidling communities. Before I post a question in like the Finescale Modeler forum, I do several searches cause those guys will not hold back in berating a person for not searching, especially a topic like "how do I airbrush" that literlaly has over a thousand responses.

CHANGE LOG 1 .1 Removals in red strikethrough Additions in dark orange Flight suit - One-piece flight suit is made out of Nomex, rip-stop nylon + canvas or similar heavy material. - The front zipper is covered by a 2-inch-wide piece of leather or leather-like material with vertical lines that attaches with Velcro over the zipper. - Approximately 1.5" (38.1mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. A 2.5-inch red embroidered or PVC Inferno Squad emblem, on a black background, is present on both shoulders. - The shoulders of the suit are slightly padded. - On the left forearm there is a compad pocket. Size might vary to match specific compad. +compad pocket spot is high enough on the forearm so the glove can't hide the compad *New Text* There is a commpad pocket that properly fits the commpad size, placed above the glove so that the pocket is not hidden. - On the left bicep, below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. - There is a piece of nylon strapping sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. - The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. - The right sleeve has a cargo pocket below the cog emblem. - The pocket has a chevron flap. - There are two large chest pockets and two large front pockets with no zippers or flaps are present below the belt. - There are two leg pockets with chevron flaps, similar in proportion as the right arm sleeve pocket, are present. - There are no leg pockets below the knees. - There are two red stripes that run up the right side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the right leg and continues up to the right armpit. The second begins at the right wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. - There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the compad pocket. The stripe then continues above the compad pocket up to the bottom edge of the pen sleeves then continues above the pen sleeves, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. - There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the compad pocket. The stripe then continues above the compad pocket up to the bottom edge of the pen sleeves then continues above the pen sleeves, behind the patch emblem and up over the shoulder ending at the bottom of the collar. - A piece of leather or leather-like material is sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): + Patches are EMBROIDERED vinyl on textile with no edge border. If twill is used for the patch material the fabric texture will be vertically oriented. + Textured Rip stop / canvas is most accurate as it is a thick materials with a "solid" structure ; "loose" / soft / light material is not accurate.

years ago VooDoo and I made the first vinyl patches that WampaWear now sells with his suits. Heat press vinyl cogs affixed directly to the fabric. Since this IS vinyl on fabric, would that be an allowable option, as long as the orientation of the twill backing is vertical? It will clearly and visibly look different when worn, just as we see in the hi res images here. No, this is not RIpstop, ive worn ripstop since 1984 and I have no idea why that was in the original text. We locally use Harbor Frieight brand canvas drop cloths for making Jedi tunics. When washed, you get a nice, soft, structured fabric that has this pebbly-ish texture.

you are correct sir. the unfortunate fact is that in this modern world, many people (all those I have worked with ) have never been to a forum, don't know how they work, etc, and spacebook is the easy, instant go to. I find it full of misinformation, and "buy mine cause its best/ cheapest/ available". ive brought many many people into a forum, and lterally watched their brain smoke as they try to process all the topics on the index page. Ill continue to try to get them in here.

The next section to discuss is the Flightuit. I have edited the original post to be more in line with discussion. Discussion Change Log 0 (no changes to original post other than remove reference numbers. Flight suit - One-piece flight suit is made out of Nomex, rip-stop nylon + canvas (thick material matching references) or similar material. - The front zipper is covered by a 2-inch-wide piece of leather or leather-like material with vertical lines that attaches with Velcro over the zipper. - Approximately 1.5" (38.1mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. A 2.5-inch red embroidered or PVC Inferno Squad emblem, on a black background, is present on both shoulders. - The shoulders of the suit are slightly padded. - On the left forearm there is a compad pocket. Size might vary to match specific compad. +compad pocket spot is high enough on the forearm so the glove can't hide the compad - On the left bicep, below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. - There is a piece of nylon strapping sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. - The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. - The right sleeve has a cargo pocket below the cog emblem. - The pocket has a chevron flap. - There are two large chest pockets and two large front pockets with no zippers or flaps are present below the belt. - There are two leg pockets with chevron flaps, similar in proportion as the right arm sleeve pocket, are present. - There are no leg pockets below the knees. - There are two red stripes that run up the right side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the right leg and continues up to the right armpit. The second begins at the right wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. - There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the compad pocket. The stripe then continues above the compad pocket up to the bottom edge of the pen sleeves then continues above the pen sleeves, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. - There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the compad pocket. The stripe then continues above the compad pocket up to the bottom edge of the pen sleeves then continues above the pen sleeves, behind the patch emblem and up over the shoulder ending at the bottom of the collar. - A piece of leather or leather-like material is sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): + Patches are EMBROIDERED + Textured Rip stop / canvas are most accurate as they are hard duty /thick materials with a "solid" structure, "loose" / soft / light material are not accurate.