Blackwatch

Im necroing this topic on purpose because on my last helmet build I used a bump cap. bump caps are smaller than regular hard hats that have a space between you and the hard plastic. Bump caps only keep you from knocking your head against things when working. I put some foam on the side of the bump cap after cutting off the bill. Fits GREAT. I hot glued it in place. https://www.grainger.com/product/39M147?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI16PzgfPc4wIVq_7jBx16TQKzEAQYAyABEgKqI_D_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI16PzgfPc4wIVq_7jBx16TQKzEAQYAyABEgKqI_D_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!284618243505!!!g!338577471510!

digging this build. Wold it be advisable to mount your handles with magnets? if they are going to come off, they will come off or get knocked and go right back. I use earth magnets on everything especially when I know its going to take damage.

wow....this is happening. This will be a wonderful addition!

wow, and I tough this was going to be a red plastic variant. NOT.

updated and fixed the text

of all the pop rivets *and this only applies to Arrow brand pop rivets * I have worked with the basic 1/8" pop rivet has a 1/4" head diameter. Steel pop rivets are larger with a 5/16 head diameter and 9/32 shaft. They are harder to pull being steel.

looks good. the last two chestboxes I built last month were WTFs and I made the upper and lower as separate assemblies. it took some doing and some figuring out, but I had the upper with its fans and lower with its LEDs and power sources then I glued the two together with ABS paste. Worked great.

I just got a chance to look at the pics. 11 years as a TI and I have to say it looks to me like the chestplate needs to drop and that will fix most of the chest box height situation. I spend a lot of time fitting the box to the wearer when I set the armor up for my local Pilots (Im Flight leader).

hi Peaks there are differences in the TB program and our program, but the red bar is not part of our program because it is not found consistently through the art. Here is our current CRL PROPOSAL which does read a bit differently than the currently published Shadow Scout CRL. In the proposal the boot cutouts are an L2 item. hope this helps

bumping this for visibility.

Ok, i see what you mean. That is a standardized, across the board preformatted text that is used on all CRLs. There are hundreds of CRLs so the first part of the text remains the same for all. As a template and you add the components you need for the CRL. Its impractical to change it for each. Only the LMO approved parts of the uniform shown are what is approved for use. Follow the highlighted link I posted. It will take you to the page on Blousing.

OK--Brown trim, I thought that was odd but kept rolling with it. Ill also update the cog verbiage. Is it a 3" cog? @IcyTrooper @14166 updates made please look it over

@pm07 Shane is there an update?

-----------------------------UPDATED MAY 2020------------------------------------------------ Troopers Looking at the source art, the boots are short. while we do consider the Commuter 2 boot to be preferred due to its very low height of not more than 9" while retaining the look of a simple boot , not everyone can find them . Jackboots will not be approved for use for the Sapper . If you have taller boots tuck the legs in to give the appearance of short boots. OR buy cheap round two engineer boots and cut the shaft down to 8-9 inches. OR Buy the commuter II style boot which meets the intent of the new, unpublished CRL. as well as the existing CRL. UNTIL THE NEW CRL GOES INTO EFFECT, THE CURRENT CRL WILL REMAIN VALID. Boots "Commuter" style boot 8-9" (20-23cm) in height. Calf high boots such as "jackboots" or "kersey" style are not acceptable. Black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles or any other embellishments. Normal leather grain/texture/lines are acceptable. Tread on the soles and heels is acceptable Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If not covered by leather or vinyl, zippers are painted black.

-----------------------------UPDATED MAY 2020------------------------------------------------ Troopers Looking at the source art, the boots are short. while we do consider the Commuter 2 boot to be preferred due to its very low height of not more than 9" while retaining the look of a simple boot , not everyone can find them . You can use regular old Jackboots at this time, per the CRL for Level 1 approval. If you have tall boots, ___EDITED______ If you have taller boots tuck the legs in to give the appearance of short boots. OR buy cheap round two engineer boots and cut the shaft down to 8-9 inches. OR Buy the commuter II style boot which meets the intent of the new, unpublished CRL. UNTIL THE NEW CRL GOES INTO EFFECT, THE CURRENT CRL WILL REMAIN VALID.

that is outdated information. There is no armor for this. heres the approved CRL. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_imperial_army_trooper Did you see armor in the initial discussion from last year? Its likely there, there is no armor in the comics we used for the CRL. On your boots they are extremely tall, like the kind preferred for Mutroopers that come to the knee. You will need to Blouse them down some to no more than Jackboot height per the crl. Shane took his pics with jacks because he had not found shorter boots at the time, the comics show shorter so you can blouse them below the height of a jackboot if you prefer. I have to do this with my tall boots for my Rebel uniforms.

the rifle looks fantastsic

OK I think I got it all in there this time. My eyes are bleary! Plesae look it over, check for edits, check for mistakes, make sure all the dimensions match up.

OK then, that said, for the purposes of the LMO looking over the CRL, lets not look at the rocket launcher for now. Let me go fix the half of the CRL that's missing in my post.

CARP! half of my post is missing! argh!! Ok let me go fix it. WTH

Rocket Trooper Helmet Tears have 5 vertical black lines. Lenses may be flat or bubble, smoke or green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The "ear" bars have three or four bumps, and is grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (Highlighted) in black is optional. Frown is painted black and overlaps the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Tube stripes are medium blue and can be between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Rubber black trim runs the length of the brow from the left to right front helmet traps. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted grey. Area around the vocoder is painted black, matching the reference photos. Tears, traps, and tube stripes should be decals, but can be hand painted, or decals that replicate hand painted. Traps/tears may be either ANH gray or a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray. A mohawk runs across the top of the helmet from the brow to just before the curve at the rear bottom of the helmet. Width of the mohawk is approximately 1.5" (38mm) and tapers slightly towards the base. At the front of the mohawk is a widows peak approximately 1/2" (12mm) and matches reference photos. The bottom of the widows peak overlaps a portion of the brow trim. A solid orange line approximately 3/8" (10mm) in width runs the length of the mohawk matching the reference photo. The line terminates near the rear of the mohawk and is followed by two squares of the same width and color. The color of the line matches the orange used on the left shoulder bell. Grey stripes approximately 1" (25mm) run parallel to the mohawk and end at the base of the rear traps. Two long triangles approximately 2" (50mm) in length protrude from each stripe matching reference photos. A grey rectangle approximately 1.5" (38mm) by .5" (12mm) is painted on the rear of the helmet below the mohawk. Two hoses are attached to the helmet, one on each side of the vocoder in the indentation where the mic tips would be. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears have no visible screws per side. Traps/tears and tube stripes are decals (with the correct ROTJ details), not hand-painted. Traps/tears are a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray. The ends of the frown are rounded, not tapered to points (not like ANH/ESB) and not squared ended like the ESB MKII. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Eye lenses are bubble style and tinted green. Ear bars have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). Neck trim is of an U-type profile rather than a S-type profile. Mesh must be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Hoses Grey ribbed hoses with a 1.25" (30mm) diameter on each end and 15" to 21" (38CM to 51 CM) of length from the helmet hose ports to the upper chest box hose ports. Hose from the 1st to 5th rib from the helmet is white in color. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Black textured material with horizontal ribbing, either one or two pieces with no visible zippers or logos. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. The front of the shoulder straps do not have a wide flat area only small ridges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Only 4 ridges of the shoulder straps overlap the chest plate. Rear of shoulder straps are temporarily secured at the back using velcro or magnets and do not free float. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The right side shoulder bell is white in color. The left side shoulder bell is orange in color with a black Imperial cog painted on the center line. Black imperial cog may be decal or painted for Level 1 approval. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shoulder bells appear to have battle damage. Black imperial cog is hand painted and weathered/ worn in appearance. Upper Arm Armor (biceps) Biceps are fully closed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Bicep armor is lightly scuffed or battle worn. Forearms Forearms are fully closed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Hand Plates These shall be clam shell, or snowtrooper-style hand plates. The hand plates shall be mounted securely over the back of the glove. Gloves Black in color, made of either nylon, kevlar, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. Chest Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Fabric or elastic strip connecting chest to back is either black or not present. Chestbox The chestbox is required to have the same configurations as seen in the photo. The box has five 1" square x 1/8th" (25mm by 3mm) thick detail pieces. Buttons are arranged arranged in two rows. Top row: red, white. Bottom row: red, black, white. Configuration matches the reference photo. There is a 1/8" (3mm)thick black or dark grey pinstripe border around the square detail pieces There are two 3/4" (18 mm )round indicator lights above the rocker switches. One white, one red respectively. There are 3 rocker switches below the round indicator lights. The rockers are always gray, white, gray. The gray rockers have red dots or lamps in their bottom. There is a 1/8" (3mm) thick black pinstripe that runs horizontally across the bottom portion of the box. There is a male silver snap and a silver round disc with cone knob on the lower portion of the box below the horizontal pinstripe. There are two "gear" type greeblies affixed to either end of the lower tube portion of the box. Theses greeblies are silver in color. Any lights or LED's added to the chest box are required to be approved by GML. Back Back plate contains a "O II" design. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back Armor has no overlap, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate Rocket Pack: Styled after the pack as seen in the battlefront II video game. An interpretation of the pack is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged. Comprised of the main pack box, fuel tank at the top of the pack and exhaust ports at the left and right bottom of the pack. Main pack box is rectangular in shape, flat at the top and beveled at the bottom, stopping above the thermal detonator. The backpack fuel tank shall not rise above the bottom of the helmet lower edge. It is mounted to the armor backplate “0 II “ . The main box features a depressed center area inset approximately ½” by 7/16” (12mm by 19mm ) deep divided into five segments. The upper half of the depression features three horizonal lines roughly 1/2" (12mm) thick, and are dirty white or light weathered grey. Three black buttons are located below the horizontal lines, to the right of the depression. Buttons are 1/4" to 5/16" (8-9mm) in diameter. The bottom right side of the center of the pack features a 2" by 2.5" (50mm by 62mm) black rectangle , which has black lines extending horizontally to the left. The pack center box may be lightly weathered. The rockets are mounted to either side of the pack center box, curved at the top and are beveled at the bottom. They are mounted ½” (12mm) below the surface of the pack center box. The bottom of the exhaust ports feature rectangular nozzles, and may extend ½” (12mm) beyond the housings. There are two medium to dark grey rectangles 3/4” by 2” j(19mm by 50mm) just above the exhaust nozzles. The left rocket nozzle has a raised rectangle approximately 2 ½”(62mm) wide by four inches long. This area is weathered per the reference photos. The fuel tanks is barrel shaped and no wider than the backpack. The center barrel section is as wide as the center section of the main backpack box, and is mounted directly on top of it. The ends of the barrel feature flat depressed caps with raised rings inside he flattened ends. 20 grooved depressions are seen near the ends of the tank. The back side of the tank features two vertical oblong depressions 3/8” by 1.5” (10mm by 32mm) long, light orange / amber in color. This is not the same color used on the helmet and shoulderbell. The outermost part of the caps are painted light to medium grey to match references. The fuel tank may be supported by plastic structure as seen in reference material to help hold it stable. Level 2 The backpack is as close to screen accurate as possible. The black rectangle and horizontal lines in the lower bevel of the rocket pack may be made of separate individual plates instead of black lines to represent the separations. Tank end cap layout should match reference photos as closely as possible. The orange/ amber segments on the barrel shaped tank shall be illuminated to match reference images. OK here is the updated CRL *** Comment on the hoses. I just set up four chestboxes and helmets with hoses. the JRS chose this length, but its kind of impractical for trooping. I set all hose lengths to 23 inches to help with moving your head around. It also depends on what you use. Scuba hose is flexible and looks like the hose seen in the CGI art. The medical/dental hose recommended for Mudtroopers also looks like this. Just a thought on the length of the hose. @IcyTrooper and @14166 can you comment? What info do we have on the rocket launcher ? I don't know anything about it, is it approved elsewhere?

@Raider the original post was Tarris so I cannot edit that, but I can CCP the whole thing so we can review it all at once, I only made suggested changes to the construction parts of the armor. Ill also make the change to the orange lights.

love me some sintra. I keep a lot of black 6M on hand and half a sheet of black 3m. Ive stopped even using white Sintra but I see why you would want it for this project. I went through the photos, looks like a straightforward Sintra build. What is your plan for the suit?

I just re-read the topic and looked over the photos. Ignoring the rivets what I see in the IP pics are the thighs, and that may come down to just strapping and padding. Way back when when this was going to be a "clone Garrison" I built clones both overlapped and butt jointed. I found it harder to get the clone to look "closed up" with a butt joint. Ive got a costume that is all sealed up and I have to "swim" into the chest then put the arms on with help. Also the back plate seems long, is that supposed to be long, or is it a trimming situation?

good news! congratulations!~ I love the look of these when they are clean and shiny, Garrison-fresh. Love that color!