Blackwatch

that is super helpful. like SUPER. @Raider can we alter the text?

Thank you Anthony!!! Can we get a definition of what the colors are? I know mine I purchased from WTF original run have a bright vibrant green on a background similar to OG107 uniform sateen.

hello and welcome Joseph! A couple of things to consider: 1 your budget 2 you may continue to grow as you get older (* I sure did!) . If you are 17 and looking to build now, and join soon, ignore everything Im about to say about going up in sizes. The engineer is pretty simple, and I have an outlined resource list posted in the forum. If you have a local surplus store, a lot of this will be right in the store. Unfortunately you can't walk into any given store and find black work coveralls. I always have to mail order mine , and I have started using the Natural Workwear brand on Amazon. They are comparable to DIckies at a somewhat cheaper price. Find your best deal. Unlike other conversions you will only need one pair. USAF style flight suits with all the pockets and zippers are wrong for this suit. If you are still growing you might want to leave it a bit baggy. We have GA troopers here and they are still growing, so they use somewhat large coveralls, but not TOO large, just enough to let them grow into them. You can always refer back to my build WIP for any reference, but keep in mind I had to make a bunch of changes during the build. Most of the build is mail order, so that makes this especially easy. Here is the buy list for the Imperial Army, and fits the three established CRLs. I found most of my stuff on Ebay and Amazon. If you have a local surplus store you can probably just walk in and get it, this is pretty common stuff. This list is pretty comprehensive so you will want to poke through all of its links. Just remember everythign on the Egnineer is glorious black. Here's my coverall conversion. It was written for the blue mechanical crewman, so ignore some of the details in the photos like the point. Just follow the text. The Engineer back pockets can be used for the leg pockets. You don't need to make the whole collar conversion, you can add a tab from suit material like the arm pocket, and that has been what most people have done. Use a super sharp utility knife on the inside of the pocket bartacks. bust the bartacks loose For boots, its really up to you, but until you are ready to join, I would consider going with a low cost alternative . The CRL is written for regular jackboots, and Ebay can be a great source if you want to make the jump now. Otherwise, a black simple boot from a thrift store will work. I looked at boots at a couple of thrift stores this week: One was a pull on work type boot which might work if the wellington type top was cut off. For the pouches you can use the recommended pouches, or stick with four black , smaller, less expensive pouches for now. There are two other considerations, the hat and the patches. Currently we don't have a source for the patches, as they have sold out again. years ago a member made his own with the small size Imperial cogs you can find on Ebay, a large patch of olive fabric and two rectangles of green fabric, sewing them together to form the shape. We do need asource for the patches, that is certain. On the hat, Its up to you. There are a lot of inexpensive hats on Ebay, but they look funky. there are members in the Imperial Officer Corps forums who will make hats. Understand this is not mail order, you go on a waiting list, and the wait can and often does take several months due to the very high demand for black hats. This is by no means great, but its economical. I can tell you from personal experience the costumebase brand hat found on Ebay and Amazon is just plain BAD. Etsy seller 20eyesdesign has made a bunch of things for me over the years and I can speak to her work. it will not be the best hat you have ever seen but its affordable. Measure your head, don't guess, these are made to order and they cannot be resized. I hope this helps, good luck, and please post your progress!

we still have people coming into the program who need patches, plus people who do not necessarily post to the forums, so the need will be ongoing. I have contacted a maker I work with a lot, as well as WTF directly to inquire about restock.

i just checked and see that they are still showing out of stock. Ill talk to staff about it. I do know one of my local troopers has a friend with a home embroidery machine and he had them made on that machine locally. My wife made our sapper tabs on a piece of fabric the same way.

Several weeks ago I spoke at lenght with Jason Hill/ Intergalactic supply about his Army Trooper helmet. He agreed to provide me with a "b" pull so that I may evaluate it for use here. Because this was for my evaluation, he did not include the full greeblie kit, trim, elastic or goggles, but he did include a wonderfully molded chin cup. In addition to the Army "b" pull Jason included an "A" pull of the standard Officer/ AT ST trooper helmet with a chin cup. While greeblies nor elastic were included, this will not affect the review. The Army trooper helmet is usable for both the Imperial Army Trooper IAT and the Sapper. First Pass: On fist pass out of the box, I like what I see. Both helmets were assembled, well trimmed, well glued and "present" well. The molds are crisp, and the trimming is outstanding. ( I have always trimmed my own plastic). The Imperial Commander/ ATST helmet is one inch wider than the Army helmet, and has the necessary notches for the spine rod. The Army helmet has a smooth skirt. Plastic: The mold that Jason uses for the dome is the same for the Snowtrooper he makes, just as it was in ESB for those screen used costumes. I compared it to my own snowtrooper and there is a slight variation from my snowie to his commander helmet, as would be expected. He sent me several photos of the fabrication process of the parts of the mold, which I have decided not to post so the page will load quicker (esp on mobile), however I always love to see sculpt photos. The quality of the plastic is excellent and by having him glue the skirt to the dome, you know that the skirt is one straight. This is how it comes in "kit" form. Pre trimmed, pre glued, and chin cup pre trimmed. Because the plastic is already black you do not necessarily have to paint it for a Sapper, just add the goggles and the plastic screw caps over where the ear cups attach. The black is also a perfect base color for IAT Green. here is a photo of what the parts look like before jason assembles them. I have done this. You need to be a Manticoran Treecat to hold one of these things. photo courtesy Intergalactic Supply Issues: the Army helmet is a B pull. I had to ask Jason if he actually DID send me a B pull, or an A pull by mistake. I have had A pulls sent to me that are nowhere near this good. If you have seen my helmet builds over the last ten years, you know I have paid for and built some real garbage, and it was the only option at the time. There is a minor issue on the left side dome of the Army helmet where the plastic got too hot and pockmarked. This is a common issue and Ive fixed it many times. Fill it with primer sander of your choice, and wet sand it with a worn out sanding sponge. Then re-prime and get ready for the color coat of choice (black, or green). All in a days work, and frankly, not much of that. There were no issues on the Commander helmet. The skirt of the Army helmet is slightly shorter on the right than on the left, and in speaking to Jason about this he says he will be creating a new mold which addresses this, so you may never see that. Back to black! Rustoleum satin black paint. Sorry for the fog, I went outside just before it rained and the humidity got to my carmera lens. If you live in the South, you get it. The Army helmet is now ready to finish. My new go-to helmet support is a plastic bump cap. I was given one and put it in my Army Ground Commander helmet and love it. It fits differently than my previous hard hat suspensions. Overall I can recommend these helmets. Im happy with them, the quality of the plastic, and how they are assembled. The heat pull issue is not something you will see in your A pulls that he sends you. You can contact Intergalactic Supply directly at Facebook. He will sell you a kit, or a fully assembled helmet ready to go,its up to you. Contact Intergalactic Supply through FB at facebook.com/IntergalacticSupply/ My sincere thanks to Jason Hill for providing me with these sample helmets for review.

yeah. Ive worked with a few dozen types of screws professionally, and if I was to walk into either hardwarestore or a parts house and asked for a screw, V head is not what I would ask for. countersunk just means that the shape of the screw allows it to sit flush to the surface, unlike pannier head screws.

I believe so. I dont see their stores anymore.

Several have there are others that are oustanding. A second vendor doesnt sound like a bad idea.

throw an old blanket on and dive into some mud. Photograph how you come out and where he mud is, thats fairly accurate. Also account for the splatter effect from above. The artillery bombarded mud fields of France in WWII left nothing visible for miles besides mud.

Looking over the proposal I agree with the changes. I would recommend some alterations to the proposals for clarity, and unify all the sizes to the current dual standard of Inches (metric). here is what I can see on first pass: BICEP • (Proposal: There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm )width. CHEST ARMOR (Proposal: The chest plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm.) BACK ARMOR • (Proposal: The back plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm.) Belt• The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3 to 3.5” (76 TO 89MM) wide. Kidney Armor• Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out the depth of the armor and about 4" 100m from the edge. They should be aligned horizontally with the three rivets on the ab plate. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets.• (Proposal: Cut out notched at the bottom of the right and left side of the kidney armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 7/8"" (22mm) tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior armor plate.) SHADOW STORMTROOPER CRL UPDATE PROPOSAL by @NINJAM0VE now open for discussion w/ highlighted proposals in GREEN. Thank you Dennis for kicking this discussion and process off. The primary purpose of this is to clarify details of the build and embed our Level 2 Specialist requirements into the CRL itself (which currently isn't the case). Feel free to provide input, suggestions, and feedback. We will leave this thread open for 1 month before moving to publish. See below... Helmet • (Proposal: See the Shadow Trooper Helmet Detail page for more views and information about helmet paint schemes.) • Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are: black, smoke, dark green, or silver. • The body of the "ears" can either be black or gray. The bars have three or four bumps and can be left the same color as the body or painted black. • The frown must have either 6 or 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable colors are: black, gray or silver. If there are spaces between the teeth the wearer's face must not be seen. (Proposal: A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present.) • The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) can be black or painted silver. • The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can either be silver or black. The interior of the aerator can either be white, silver, or black. • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be: hand painted, decals. Acceptable colors are: black or gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. • Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted black. • Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. • Traps/tears shall be hand painted or decals in color black or gray and shall have the correct details similar to the ANH TK. • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. (Proposal: The screen in the aerator tips shall be painted silver and the interior of the aerator tip shall be painted white.) • Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile. Neck Seal • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zipper or logos. Shoulder Straps • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. • The rear tab of the strap is optional and may or may not be present. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps in the front • These shall need to be held down in the back with black elastic band to the black fabric that connects/ bridges the chest and back armor. • These shall be glued in front • (Proposal: Omit “These shall free float in the back”) • (Proposal: The rear tab of the strap shall be removed same as the TKs seen in ANH movie.) Shoulder Armor • One on each shoulder. • The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. • Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Bicep • Biceps are fully closed. • Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. • (Proposal: There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 10mm width.) Forearms • Forearms are fully sealed and closed • Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. • (Proposal: There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms.) Hand Plates • Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted black and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Gloves • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor • Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • (Proposal: The chest plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 10mm.) • (Proposal: Chest and back shall be connected with a black fabric or preferably elastic that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps.) • Chest and back shall be connected with a black fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders. Back Armor • Back Plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • (Proposal: The back plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 10mm.) • Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Abdomen Armor • The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 gloss black buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal.(Proposal: Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than ½” (12,5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flushed and seams are allowed.) • Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. • A single male snap on the top right of the corner of the ab plate shall be present and painted black. • A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate and painted black. It does not need to be functional. (Proposal: Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm).) • (Proposal: Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed.) Kidney Armor • A single kidney/ posterior armor piece is acceptable. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out the depth of the armor and about 100m from the edge. They should be aligned horizontally with the three rivets on the ab plate. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. • (Proposal: Cut out notched at the bottom of the right and left side of the kidney armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 22mm tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior armor plate.) Posterior Armor • A single kidney/ posterior armor piece is acceptable. • If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor. • The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab that are painted black. Snaps do not need to be functional. Belt • (Proposal: The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and on each end of the belt.) • The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3 to 3.5” wide. • The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • (Proposal: The corners of the black plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt.) • (Proposal: The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels.) • Drop boxes must be attached using black elastic and must have a full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed • Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Thermal Detonator OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). (Proposal: V-head screws are not permitted.) I would propose changing the term to Countersunk.

I just re weathered my IAT yesterday and did exactly as you advised. two colors, then blending a third color for the mud, and applying as if I were moving through the terriain, as much as over it. Or just look back at pics of how muddy I was when I was in the Army.

I just made the belt edit and saved it, so that should be good to go for review.

I mean, not to use that EXACT color, cause thats gonna cause international issues with paint match availability, but if its close to FS 35237 or FS25237 blue grey, a model shop is going to carry a very similar color.

Is there one of those.6 view character guides like Filoni had for the Rebels characters? That would give us a pantone reference.

Ill get the text updated tonight.

Yeah, you could defnitely go Gouf with this. I believe Norris Packard would be proud. Always loved the Gouf after 8th Team.

Tom I pulled up the number and it states that it isstill in transit to the next facility. . I find that international packages get jammed up in New York. Last week for the Nth time I had a package from China go to the NY International mail processing center to be inspected, completely relabled, and sent on to me halfway back across the US. International mail, especially packages, take FOREVER unless they are sent something like SAL.

a lot of this reminds me of Zajus and Goufs, especially the blue paint and elongated faceplate.

look slike the cases our avionics test equipment came in. All that gear was yellow with aluminum strips and pressure releif ports. This looks very in-universe

Tom did you get this sorted out?

love the look of this trooper

First- Welcome! Second GOOD WORK! Third, this is a beast of a build, and you are on the right track. Agree about the bells and other issues addressed. Arethse the boots you plan to use? make sure if you do use them the upper strap stays in place, its flopped down in the back pick with the plashk off. I like the color, it feels right to me, but a bit more weathering will tie it all together. Looking forward to seeing more of your build photos.

Troopers Let us congratulate @TX 62888 , our first Imperial Army Specialist. Jordan has gone the extra mile, and set his costume up to conform to the CRL Level 2 requirements, and has been reviewed by the Detachment Staff after posting new photos of his costume setup. Congratulations, Specialist! Specialist program. NOTE: you may NOT post in this topic unless you are asking for your costume to be reviewed. https://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/forum/40-the-specialist-program/

Troopers Tarrif did the initial leg work on all of this, and I will copy and quote as much of his work as I can and update only where needed. Credit goes to him for this list. The Imperial Army Trooper uses olive green for its components. The Imperial Army Engineer and Sapper use black components. Follow these links to the CRLS for each: Engineer CRL Sapper CRL Army Trooper CRL I suggest painting all of your Imperial Army Trooper (IAT) gear with a green acrylic paint , such as Montana Gold Olive Green or other similar fabric and nylon friendly paint for uniformity. Consult your GML if you are not sure. (ALL of my web gear, gloves, helmet and boots are painted with this paint). Paint link is listed below. You may find better items, you may find cheaper items, this list is to help get you going. Remember to consult the CRL for differences in the three uniforms. Helmet Intergalactic Supply and Walts Trooper Factory make the Army Trooper helmet kits. These are different from the ATST helmet driver helmets that Tambo supplies so make sure you are ordering the correct Army style helmet. Ask about what all comes with the kit, it should be a full kit with everything you need. Two (2) Imperial disk greeblies without the notch. You can get them from Elvistrooper through his website here. Two (2) screw cap covers size 8/8 like the ones found here. The IAT has one (1) telemetry unit from TrooperPX here in our forums. Follow this link. Several feet of 5mm or 7mm U Channel Rubber Edge seal trim is used around the edges of the helmet. I found mine on ebay. Chin Cups can be ordered from Walts Trooper Factory, Intergalactic Supply or TK560. One inch nylon strapping was used to keep the chin cup in place. Helmet padding is a must. FMA universal padding kits are inexpensive and will keep your helmet in place. Montana Gold Olive Green spray paint from Dick Blick was used for the helmet and armor. This is the same brand Lucas Film uses on the new costumes. It can also be found locked in a cage at Michaels stores, and online through Home Depot. The CRL calls for Olive green. You are free to use what you are able to source locally, with your GMLs approval. Goggles Engineer goggles: The engineer goggles are simple black, round, welding style goggles. Don't buy the "steampunk" style goggles commonly seen at conventions, they are incorrect. Sapper and Army Trooper goggles: Goggles can be either these from UVEX or others from ESSwhich are more comfortable and accurate, but cost a bit more. Black Imperial Army coverall (NOTE: this is not a typical Pilot style suit) The black coverall is not yet made by any of the traditional makers, but its a simple conversion of an existing coveralls. See slewhere in the forum for the conversion tutorial. I have always mail ordered coveralls. I use Dickies or Natural Workwear from amazon. Here is a link to them. Green Imperial Army Coverall This is a somewhat cheaper Galls suit from the LAPoliceGear Site that will save you some money. The Elbeco suit looks to be discontinued soon, so grab it while you can. here is a simple mechanic coverall. You have to move the patch pockets from the butt to the mid thigh. You have to make the chevron collar as described in the forum. **NOTE 1** do not buy a "flightsuit". this is wrong, and it will take a lot of work to fix this and make it correct for Army use. Don't buy this NOTE 2: I cut about 1.5" of material off the legs that would be covered by the boots and made the chevron shaped mandarin collar that way. Adding a single snap to the end of the collar near the chevron is most accurate. The Galls coveralls pockets are correct. **The flight suit is similar to the USMC Mechanic Utility Coverall (NSN # 8405-01-462-4298) like the one found here.. you WILL NEED to change the pockets to the correct setup.** These suits are getting hard to find, and only in smaller sizes. A length of 2" elastic webbing was added to the legs to act as stirrups so the legs wouldn't bunch up around the boot. A piece of 1/2" elastic was used at the wrists to loop around me thumb so the arms wouldn't bunch up inside the gloves and everything stayed neatly in place. Imperial Army Patch The patch is available through the Walt's Trooper Factory website by clicking here or through Endor Finders . Gloves Black Gloves (Sapper, Engineer) The black glove is a short glove with no long gauntlet cuff. I found a cheap pair of gloves here. Remove the strap across the back and they're perfectly accurate for this CRL. This police search glove features three lines on the back of the hand. This rappelling glove features a square handback but requires the finger pads to be removed and the logo to be removed or covered. Green Gloves (Imperial Army Trooper) The IAT glove is a smooth green glove and may feature a square handback. or three square lines. These French Army gloves are olive green to begin with, and smooth leather. You can paint these with Montana Gold Olive Green paint with no issues to match all your gear. Web Harness The web harness is in the approximate shape of an H with the strap going horizontally across the shoulder blades. You may make your own so you know it fits your shoulders properly by using either 2" heavy nylon webbing (green or black) from strapworks or Etsy or any other vendor that sells 2" wide (50mm) heavy nylon webbing. I pained mine with Montana Gold OG so its matches my gear. An average height/ build person will need about 9 feet (3m) to allow for adjustment etc. Four (4) metal snap hooks attach the harness to the belt trough the eyelets. If you order from Strapworks you can have your order filled in the color you need at checkout. Triglides for adjustment can be found here or here or in stores. Belt The belt is a Condor PB 2" GI Style Nylon Pistol Belt like the ones found Here. Black for Sapper/ engineer and green for Army trooper. Belt Pouches Condor MA47 double handcuff MOLLE PALS belt pouches are available online. Choose OD or black as required. IAT troopers may have 1 Condor MA33 OD Green Triple Magazine belt pouch , available on ebay or other online or sporting goods vendors. Additional OD Green or black belt pouches should be worn around the belt to fill it in. Condor makes inexpensive pouches which can be found online here. The Imperial Sapper has chest pouches and uses modified gas mask pouches , STROBE POUCHES or other pouches required to fill out the belt as required. Imperial Sappers have two MP40 pouches mounted to the belt. These are available from a wide range of sources including Ebay, Amazon and other online retailers who reproduce them for costume work. Sapper Backpack The Sappers backpack was a collaborative effort between this Detachment , Matt Nelson who did the design work and CrookKnights Imperial Trooper packs, who created the first pack. Currently two exist, the first that CrookKnight created, and one made entirely from Sintra. Boots * The Commuter II style boot , without decorative stitching or lines is the approved boot for this uniform. These tend to run a bit big but not bad. I found mine on Ebay. Paint them green for the IAT , leave them black for Engineers. Some motorcycle boots may fit the bill. as long as they are short. The overall height is 8-9" . *UPDATE 6/28* Thanks to Kessel for giving us this critical intel! More boots are found here. Always consult your GML first! exact pair winter side zip boots US Ebay Listing https://www.marks.com/en/36809.html?bvstate=pg:2/ct:r#36809=BLACK Black/ Olive Green Hat Option IAT & Engineer only I bought several versions of this hat, but the one most widely available is from Cosplaysky and Disney parks on eBay. Check with your local Garrison for a local maker as well. The Imperial Officer Corps forums has a few people who will custom make an officer's cap in the correct color and size for the individual.