Blackwatch

come to think of it I think I yanked mine out and got some welding sheild and replaced it. The pair of ESSS goggles (or knockoff thereof) I got came with a bunch of lenses including amber, clear and black, so I just swapped it. put your goggles on your helmet, take a pic outisde in natural light and see how they look mounted.

ok thanks thats exactly what I needed to know. Under the forearms t seems like the jacket would bunch up. my snowtrooper arms are only half-arms but even then with the fabric duster closing can be difficult.

ok, im gong to take another stab at this. I dont feel that we are rushing anything, since Im averaging a week when I can get back in to comment, so I certainly do not feel or see a rush to development in this process, as we are spending pages discussing each item. I have never seen a boot like this before. I certainly would nt know where to get one since Keep Trooping has refused to make them in my size (13 extra wide) because he does not have a form for a boot that size. That said, that limits what I person CAN get off of Ebay, which leaves us back at the same situation we have been in since I joined this club in 2008, expecially for those of us born with really big, really wide feet and 24 inch calves; we get what we can , that fits. I have spent almost 1,000 dollar on boots this year alone, all custom made, and each has been a HUGE gamble if it will fit when i get it trough the mail from overseas. its up to each costume bilder to build to the accuracy level they prefer. So, given what WE HAVE available to us now, a mid calf boot is going to look very differnt on me than on several of the people I troop with because Im taller than them. Its still a mid calf boot at the end of the day, but it varies, whethere it lands on the shin, or the calf. The boot is the boot, make the way the manufacturer made it. So, lets look at this proposal. Honestly Ive lost count so Im going to rename this : Boot propsal V.2.0 Boot rises to no higher than mid-shin, and is leather or leather lke material. There are no laces, decorative stitches, embellishments or buckles on the instep. If seams are present they are at the rear only. A single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot may be present. The buckle is no wider than 1" (25.4mm). This need not be functional. Strap adjustment buckle is dingy gunmetal color, or dingy grey. It shall not be shiny/ chrome. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable as long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by a vinyl or leather strip, it is painted black. For basic approval the soles may feature a more agressive tread. German Bundesmarine Navy Sea Boots (or authentic replica) are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (If applicable): Boots are made of leather German Knobelbecher Bundesmarine or Knobelbecher Bundeswehr style, accurate in hieght and design. Sole must be a lower profile, with no hobnails, modest tread and modest heel. The rear flap does not extend lower than one-third the hieght of the boot shaft. Rectangular reinforcement stiching does not have an "X" stitched into the rectangle.

are the biceps going to be flexible? are you holding them together so they can move with your arm as they move? I just got a set of WTF armor and if you are doing that I am curious how you are doing it. Were youre straps made black or did you need to paint them black?

get some padding in there it looks awfully large, look at my goggles, they are square like and angled with dark lenses. Not seeing anything wrong with the goggles. Strap is correct grey/green for L2, jus take off the cover.

This has been an educational discussion I have a new set of crowprops boots , coming off of 16 inch tall Engineer boots which fell apart after being re-soled a couple of times, and going to these, they ARE smaller but I can tell they are taller than what was used on screen for pilots and crew. I have big , wide feet, so buying any sort of authentic boot has been a no go since I joined in 2008. Buying boots and hoping they fit has also been a gamble when dealing with a vendor. To get an accurate boot , either by sourcing a accurate boot online (If you can) the other option is to convince the makers to create an accurae boot to begin with. it doesnt seem like there has been much inclination on their part to do so, otherwise they wouuld have already been making a boot accurate to the both both in design and in height compared to references.

Its under review by staff at this time.

yeah thats exactly what i was thinking. For ICAT troopers its supposed to be a tall boot that goes to under the knee and the top of the shin guard stops at the top of the boot. So, if this is truly a shorter boot, and I believe it is based on the images in the reference gallery The top strap of the shin armor is well above the top of the boot. The boots on film have a smooth sole, we can make that a L2 requirement, while lug soles such as your should be fine for approval, with text to match.

Our next point will be the boots, and the attached grieve/ shin armor. From the Andor Trooper CRL: Boots Calf high black leather or leather like material. Free of laces, decorative stitching, buckles on the instep or any other embellishments. If seams are present on the shaft, they are at the rear only. Boots may have a single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot, with the buckle no wider than 1" (25.4mm). This need not be functional. Jackboot buckles should not be shiny/can be painted dingy grey or gun-metal color. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable, so long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by vinyl/ leather, it is painted black. German “jack boot” style boots are most canon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots are made of leather. So lets talk about the boots, and talk about the actual photo we are using on the Imperial Andor Trooper, are we using the correct graphic for that?

Thanks for sharing these Calum. Its nice to see the variant. Now that I have lost so much weight I want to add that to my kit. You look good alongside the Andor version.

Ok, Il leave it up a couple more days just for openness and transarency for any other input then we can clear and lock. Editing my post from two days ago, here is the final revision: Final Version V 1.1 Gloves Black gloves made of smooth leather or leather-like material. Gloves shall have all logos removed. There is no decorative stitching on the gloves. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall have a U-shaped adjustment at the wrist. Dents brand gloves or accurate replica of Dents gloves. Belt Belt is construction from a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) to the wearers left from the buckle. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5⁄8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1⁄8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with a Rogue One type Code Disk without grooves at the center. The belt is worn above the top of the lower pocket flap top edge. The belt features two boxes, one on either side of the buckle. The boxes are Rogue One style boxes, the dimensions are approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall x 2" (50.8mm) wide, x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Boxes shall be painted to match the armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at top and bottom edge of the belt along its length. Belt boxes are smaller than Rogue One boxes, being 2.5" (67mm) tall x 1.75" wide (45mm) x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Belt boxes feature a pill shaped indentation at the top of the box.

Proposal V.1.1 We know the belt boxes are not olive grey they are black and match the armor. Ill make that adjustment here. Honestly not a lo to stay about the gloves at this point. Belt The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) to the wearers left from the buckle. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5⁄8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1⁄8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with a Rogue One type Code Disk without grooves at the center. The belt is worn above the top of the lower pocket flap top edge. The belt features two boxes, one on either side of the buckle. The boxes are Rogue One style boxes, the dimensions are approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall x 2" (50.8mm) wide, x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Boxes shall be painted olive grey or gunmetal with a flat finish. to match the armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at top and bottom edge of the belt along its length. Belt boxes are smaller than Rogue One boxes, being 2.5" (67mm) tall x 1.75" wide (45mm) x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Belt boxes feature a pill shaped indentation at the top of the box.

With biceps and shoulders done Id like to look at the belt and the gloves at the same time Here is the original text from the Andor Trooper CRL as published.: Proposal v.1: Gloves Black gloves made of smooth leather or leather-like material. Gloves shall have all logos removed. There is no decorative stitching on the gloves. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall have a U-shaped adjustment at the wrist. Dents brand gloves or accurate replica of Dents gloves. Belt The belt is constructed from a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width, up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) to the wearers left from the buckle. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5⁄8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1⁄8" (104.5 mm) wide with 0.5" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with a Rogue One type Code Disk without grooves at the center. The belt is worn above the top of the lower pocket flap top edge. The belt features two boxes, one on either side of the buckle. The boxes are Rogue One style boxes, the dimensions are approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall x 2" (50.8mm) wide, x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Boxes shall be painted olive grey or gunmetal with a flat finish. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at top and bottom edge of the belt along its length. Belt boxes are smaller than Rogue One boxes, being 2.5" (67mm) tall x 1.75" wide (45mm) x 1" (25.4mm) thick. Belt boxes feature a pill shaped indentation at the top of the box.

its been a few days and no further input, Im going to lock this , and update the first page with the text as stated above. So, here is our Final for Shoulders and Biceps: Shoulder Armor Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted to match the armor and helmet. Shoulders are mounted to the shoulder strap via a 1" (25.4mm) up to 2" (50mm) webbing strap. Bicep Armor For basic approval a one piece bicep is permitted. The bicep may appear "open" or split as seen on screen. Cover strips will appear on the front and back, covering joints if present. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip inset into the top of the bevel. Cover strips may be as deep as 1/2" ( 12.7mm) and up to 7/8" (23.5mm) in width, beveled on all four sides. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. OPTIONAL: Level Two: Biceps are two piece design, with the halves held together with hidden flexible cord, and shall remain flexible.

FOr L2 you are going to want to completely hide those black clips. Mine are attached to the very bottom edge of my belt, I dont even use the holes since it goes to the bottom. The position of the strap over the pocket flap is much better. In practice they move all over because there just isnt any weight to hold tem down like on real miiltary straps.

Thanks Sean Ok so lets clean this up Proposal v.2 Bicep For basic approval a one piece bicep is permitted. The bicep may appear "open" or split as seen on screen. Cover strips will appear on the front and back, covering joints if present. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip inset into the top of the bevel. Cover strips may be as deep as 1/2" ( 12.7mm) and up to 7/8" (23.5mm) in width, beveled on all four sides. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. OPTIONAL: Level Two: Biceps are two piece design, with the halves held together with hidden flexible cord, and shall remain flexible.

Im back. The last 9 days (ten ?Ive lost count the days are blurring) have been pretty bad. Im hoping it gets back to something near 'normal' for us in the next week or so. ok, back to stabbity stab on this Version 1.1 Biceps — Version Two For basic approval a one piece bicep is permitted. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Cover strips may be up to 1/8" (2.5mm) thick and beveled on all four sides. Cover strips will cover the front and back joints. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. OPTIONAL: Level Two: Biceps are two piece design, with the halves held together in the back by flexible cord, and shall remain flexible. Biceps — Version Two For basic approval a one piece bicep is permitted. The bicep may appear "open" or split as seen on screen. Cover strips will appear on the front and back, covering joints if present. cover the front and back joints Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. inset into the top of the bevel. Cover strips may be up to 1/8" (2.5mm) as thick as deep as 1/2" ( 12.7mm) and up to 7/8" (23.5mm) in width, beveled on all four sides. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. OPTIONAL: Level Two: Biceps are two piece design, with the halves held together in the back by flexible cord, and shall remain flexible.

Im going to take a stabbity stab at this and see if this makes sense: Biceps — Version Two For basic approval a one piece bicep is permitted. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Cover strips may be up to 1/8" (2.5mm) thick and beveled on all four sides. Cover strips will cover the front and back joints. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. OPTIONAL: Level Two: Biceps are two piece design, with the halves held together in the back by flexible cord, and shall remain flexible.

from looking at the pics I could only tell they were based on Mausers but could not tell the actual model be they DL44 or MSP5. Its certainly something we can review.

Ive had a number of real life issues to work my way through and this is my first time coming back into the forum. The unarmored troopers are defintely in the rear (remfs). I printed my bicep for ICAT and a flexible unit would be easier to move in. Here is the current text for Alhani troopers bicep: Biceps — Version Two Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. I have read, and re-read what Jason wrote and honestly Im getting lost in it. So, can someone put this in very simple words that I can understand because honestly Im not 'braining' these days.

I do not know of a printable file. When David Ransay made his for the CRL he used good old fashioned methods we used bfore the days of 3d printing everything. He made it from wood and plastic. There are no dimensions listed, since this was all (inconsistent) comic art and we can only guess, so as a long as it matches the helmet image in the CRL as far as appearance, you should have no issues.

I will revise it and post it later on. Personally, I am going to err on the side of "the GML who is brand new and needs a guide to go by for L1 approval" I believe we can get so hyper dialed in on super specific details that people will not be approved. Ive seen it happen in the past. Im 57 years old, ive done a ton of things in my life, and Ive never heard of "familon cordage". That is so specific it can lead to rejection at the L1 level.

right, that got left off the initial list. I did a bit of research on that earlier. And as always, "in accordance with local laws".

its been about five days so lets look at cleaning this up: Version 1.1 Shoulder Armor Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shoulders should have a longer flat edge that covers top of bicep with a shorter flat edge that connects to chest armor. Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted to match the armor and helmet. Shoulders are mounted to the shoulder strap via a bracket and 1" (25.4mm) or 1.25" (40mm) webbing strap. Biceps Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. For basic approval the bicep may be a single piece. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Biceps are a split design and held together by an invisible fastener. We have this much left to go: Gloves Belt Boots E-10.5 Blaster Radio backpack

I wanted to check in before I leave for the weekend. Once I come back on Monday Ill check back in.